Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
The last significant rain was 12.3mm on August 19th, followed by minor drizzle on the 20th–21st and a trace on the 25th; the crag has had roughly 4–5 days of broadly dry weather with moderate winds and decent temperatures on its exposed SW aspect, which should have allowed substantial drying. However, today's very high humidity (89% average, peaking near 95%) is inhibiting final surface drying, and heavy rain is forecast from tomorrow, so today represents a narrow and uncertain window.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's open, exposed position and SW aspect give it significantly better drying characteristics than neighbouring Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but isolated buttresses like Saints Wall and Space Buttress may have localised seepage at their bases.
- The 41mm of rain over the past 28 days — including two heavier events (12.3mm on Aug 19 and 10.4mm on Aug 4) — means background moisture levels in the sandstone are elevated for summer.
- Today's extremely high humidity (89–95%) with overcast skies and an easterly wind means the SW-facing rock is getting minimal direct solar drying benefit and near-zero net evaporation.
- Heavy rain is forecast from tomorrow (8.6mm Aug 27, 10.8mm Aug 28, 11.6mm Aug 30), which will reset drying entirely and make conditions unsuitable for at least several days.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain is forecast from tomorrow through the weekend (35mm over 5 days) — conditions will deteriorate sharply and the crag will need 2–3 full dry days to recover after the last rain.
- Today's near-saturated humidity (89–96%) means the rock surface may feel dry but evaporation is essentially zero — internal moisture cannot escape and holds may be weaker than they appear.
Reasoning
The rock has had approximately 5 dry days since the last significant rain (12.3mm on Aug 19), with only trace amounts since, which on an exposed SW crag should bring it close to dry — but persistently elevated humidity (78% average over the last week) has slowed the final stages of drying.
The exposed SW aspect and moderate winds (19–22 km/h) over recent days have aided drying considerably, but today's easterly wind shields the SW face from direct airflow and humidity near 90% effectively stalls evaporation.
With 5 days of drying in moderate summer conditions, structural risk from internal moisture is low but not negligible — the trace rain on Aug 25 and very high humidity could mean some residual dampness in lower sections.
Mid-to-late summer provides reasonable warmth and daylight hours for drying, though the recent pattern of frequent showers interspersed with short dry spells keeps background moisture levels higher than ideal.
Contributing Factors
7
The 12.3mm event on August 19th was followed by roughly 5 days of negligible precipitation, allowing substantial drying on this exposed crag.
The open hilltop position and south-westerly aspect maximise wind exposure and solar radiation, giving Kyloe Out above-average drying speed for Fell Sandstone.
Today's humidity ranges from 80–96%, severely limiting net evaporation and potentially allowing surface moisture reabsorption from the atmosphere.
The SW-facing rock is sheltered from today's easterly wind, reducing the drying benefit of the 18 km/h breeze.
0.4mm on August 25th is trivial in itself but resets the surface moisture clock slightly and the single fully dry day since is marginal.
41mm over 28 days with multiple rain events means the deeper pore structure may retain more moisture than a single dry spell suggests.
8.6mm forecast for August 27th followed by further heavy rain on the 28th and 30th means today is the last possible window before a prolonged wet spell.
Recommendations
3
- If climbing today, perform a thorough touch-test on holds at multiple heights — if any dampness is felt, especially at the base of buttresses, do not climb.
- Avoid lower sections and any areas with visible moss or discolouration, as these will retain moisture longest in today's humid conditions.
- Consider postponing entirely: the high humidity today means even surface-dry rock may be weaker than usual, and better conditions are unlikely to materialise for at least a week given the incoming weather.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
70%
57 days ago
Three consecutive dry days following 12.3mm of rain on Aug 19, with warm temperatures and moderate wind on a SW-facing exposed crag, suggest the rock is likely dry — but the preceding wet spell (20mm+ across Aug 17–20) and moderate humidity levels mean a visual check on arrival is prudent. Today offers excellent conditions for an afternoon visit, but rain returns tomorrow and persists through the week.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's open, exposed position and SW aspect give it a significant drying advantage over nearby Kyloe-in-the-Woods, so it will be ready sooner after rain.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) dry independently — some may hold seepage at their bases longer than upper faces, so check lower holds carefully.
- The recent wet spell from Aug 17–20 deposited ~21mm across four days; while three good drying days have followed, the cumulative moisture load warrants a touch-test of the rock before committing.
- A very wet forecast period begins Aug 25 with over 50mm expected in 5 days — today (Aug 24) is likely the last viable climbing window for a week or more.
Warnings
2
- Today is very likely the last safe window before a prolonged wet spell — do not return to climb until at least 2–3 fully dry days follow the end of rain around Aug 30.
- The cumulative wet spell means base sections and north-facing nooks on individual buttresses may still be damp despite the surface appearing dry — test carefully.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 12.3mm on Aug 19, followed by trace amounts on Aug 20–21 and three fully dry days (Aug 22–24) with moderate temperatures (14–19°C) and humidity dropping to 68–70%, suggesting surface rock should be dry but some internal moisture may linger from the broader wet spell.
Three dry days with SW aspect, exposed position, and steady winds (12–19 km/h) provide good evaporative conditions; for a 12mm event on porous Fell Sandstone the 2–3 dry day guideline is just being met, though the preceding days (Aug 17–18) added further moisture.
The rock has had adequate but not generous drying time; surface holds should be sound but any damp patches — especially at buttress bases — indicate the sandstone is still weakened internally and must be avoided.
Mid-to-late August offers reasonable temperatures and daylight for drying, though the recent trend toward cooler, more humid weather and the incoming wet spell are characteristic of late-summer deterioration in Northumberland.
Contributing Factors
6
Three consecutive dry days since the 12.3mm rain on Aug 19 meets the minimum 2–3 day guideline for an exposed SW crag, though barely.
The south-west facing, exposed position maximises solar gain and wind-driven evaporation, accelerating drying significantly compared to sheltered or north-facing crags.
Approximately 21mm fell across Aug 17–20, meaning the rock absorbed moisture repeatedly before the current dry spell began, increasing internal saturation.
Humidity drops to 47–54% between 11:00 and 16:00 with clear skies and moderate wind, providing an excellent drying and climbing window this afternoon.
3.6mm forecast for Aug 25 with 87% humidity marks the start of a prolonged wet spell totalling over 50mm through Aug 29, closing the climbing window.
Temperatures averaging ~17°C over recent days are adequate for drying but not exceptional; warmer conditions would have accelerated evaporation further.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, go in the early-to-mid afternoon (11:00–16:00) when humidity is lowest and solar gain is strongest on the SW face.
- Perform a thorough touch-test of holds and check the ground at the base of each buttress — if the soil is damp, the rock likely retains internal moisture and should not be climbed.
- Do not plan any climbing from Aug 25 onward; over 50mm of rain is forecast across the next five days and the rock will need several dry days to recover afterward.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
58 days ago
After 12.3mm of rain on August 19th followed by trace amounts on the 20th–21st, the crag has had roughly two full dry days (Aug 22–23) with moderate temperatures and SW-facing exposure. The exposed, wind-swept aspect of Kyloe Out aids drying, but the recent wet spell and only moderate temperatures mean internal moisture may linger — a visual check on arrival is essential.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind from all western quarters, which significantly aids drying compared to the sheltered Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The SW aspect receives good afternoon sun in summer, but the relatively cool recent temperatures (~14–18°C) and elevated humidity (~70–80%) have limited drying efficiency.
- The base areas between buttresses can hold moisture in grass and soil longer than the rock faces — check ground dampness at the crag base as a proxy for internal rock moisture.
- The forecast shows deteriorating conditions from Aug 25 onward with rain returning, so today and tomorrow represent a narrow window before the next wet spell.
Warnings
2
- The rock surface may appear dry while internal moisture persists — test holds carefully and back off if any dampness is detected, as iron-oxide holds on Fell Sandstone are particularly vulnerable to breakage when wet.
- A wetter-than-average summer background means even 'dry' periods carry more residual moisture risk than usual.
Reasoning
The most significant recent rain was 12.3mm on Aug 19, followed by 0.9mm on Aug 20 and a trace 0.1mm on Aug 21, with two fully dry days since — the rock surface should be dry but internal moisture in this porous Fell Sandstone (up to 20.7% porosity) may not have fully dissipated.
Two dry days with SW aspect, moderate wind (~12–19 km/h), and temperatures of 14–18°C provide reasonable but not exceptional drying; the exposed position helps, but humidity averaging 70–79% slows evaporation, placing this at the borderline of the 2–3 dry day guideline for this crag.
Moderate risk — 12.3mm is a meaningful wetting event for porous Fell Sandstone, and while two days of drying reduces surface moisture, residual internal saturation could weaken iron-oxide cemented holds if stressed.
Mid-to-late summer conditions with reasonable daylight hours and above-freezing temperatures eliminate freeze-thaw concerns, though the 76.4mm over the past 28 days indicates a wetter-than-ideal summer period that keeps background moisture levels elevated.
Contributing Factors
6
12.3mm fell on Aug 19 with minor follow-up precipitation on Aug 20–21, providing a significant wetting of the porous sandstone just 3–4 days ago.
Aug 22 and 23 have been fully dry, meeting the minimum threshold but not the conservative 3-day guideline for Fell Sandstone after moderate rain.
The fully exposed, wind-swept SW-facing buttresses dry substantially faster than sheltered or north-facing alternatives in the area.
Temperatures of 14–18°C and humidity around 70–72% provide adequate but not exceptional evaporative conditions.
76.4mm over the past 28 days indicates a persistently wet period that keeps background moisture levels in the rock elevated.
The forecast shows rain returning from Aug 25 onward with heavy falls of 10–12mm on Aug 27–28, meaning conditions will deteriorate again soon.
Recommendations
3
- Visit today or tomorrow (Aug 23–24) for the best window, but perform a thorough touch-test and ground-dampness check before committing to climb.
- Avoid lower sections of buttresses and any seepage-prone areas where moisture drains and pools longest.
- Do not plan climbing from Aug 25 onward as rain returns; the next viable window will likely require 2–3 dry days after the Aug 27–28 rainfall clears.
Do Not Climb
45%
59 days ago
The last significant rain was 12.3mm on August 19, followed by light precipitation on the 20th and 21st, with only one full dry day (today). Despite Kyloe Out's exposed SW aspect aiding drying, the rock has not had sufficient time to dry internally — at least two more dry days are needed before conditions can be trusted.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind and sun on the SW aspect, giving it a meaningful drying advantage over nearby Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the same porous Fell Sandstone still demands patience.
- The heavy 32.7mm event on July 26 and repeated wettings through August (10.4mm on Aug 4, 12.3mm on Aug 19) mean the rock has had limited opportunity to fully dry out internally despite surface appearances.
- Base sections of the isolated buttresses will hold moisture longest — check the ground at the foot of each buttress as a reliable proxy for internal rock moisture.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement; park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the gate — maintaining this goodwill is essential for continued access.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — only one dry day since 12.3mm of rain on porous Fell Sandstone is insufficient; internal moisture will compromise hold integrity.
- The rock surface may appear dry while still being saturated internally — significant strength loss begins at only 1% water saturation.
Reasoning
With 12.3mm falling on August 19, plus light precipitation on the 20th (0.9mm) and 21st (0.1mm), the rock has had only one truly dry day and is very likely still holding significant internal moisture despite possible surface drying.
The exposed SW aspect and moderate winds (16–23 km/h from W/NW) have aided surface evaporation, but with average humidity around 80% and temperatures only ~14–16°C over the last three days, drying has been slower than ideal — a minimum of 48–72 hours from the last significant rain is needed.
Given the repeated wetting cycles through August (76.6mm over 28 days) and only one dry day since the last heavy rain, internal moisture levels are likely elevated enough that holds on the fine-grained Fell Sandstone could be structurally compromised.
Mid-to-late August temperatures are moderate and declining, and humidity has been persistently high (80% average over the last week), slowing drying compared to peak summer conditions.
Contributing Factors
7
12.3mm fell on August 19 with additional light rain on the 20th and 21st, thoroughly wetting the porous sandstone only 1–3 days ago.
Only one consecutive dry day has elapsed since the last rain, well short of the recommended 2–3 dry days for exposed Fell Sandstone.
76.6mm of precipitation over 28 days with repeated wetting cycles means the rock has had limited opportunity to reach a genuinely dry baseline.
Average humidity of 80% over the last 7 days significantly slows evaporation and internal drying.
The fully exposed, south-west facing buttresses receive good solar radiation and wind, accelerating surface and near-surface drying relative to sheltered crags.
Winds of 16–23 km/h over recent days help move moist air away from rock surfaces, aiding evaporation.
Temperatures of 14–17°C are adequate for summer drying but below the recent warm spell highs, providing only modest evaporative drive.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least two more full dry days (until August 24 at the earliest) before climbing, and check the ground at the base of each buttress for residual dampness.
- If visiting on August 24–25, visually inspect holds and probe cracks for moisture before committing — surface dryness does not guarantee internal dryness.
- Consider nearby non-porous alternatives (e.g. whinstone crags) if you need to climb sooner.
Do Not Climb
70%
60 days ago
The rock has had no consecutive dry days following recent rain on August 19 (12.3mm), August 20 (0.9mm), and today August 21 (1.1mm). Despite Kyloe Out's exposed, SW-facing aspect which aids drying, the cumulative recent precipitation and lack of any sustained dry spell mean the porous Fell Sandstone is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind from all westerly and southerly directions, which is a significant drying advantage over its sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The series of separate buttresses means some faces will have different micro-aspects — any east- or north-facing sides of individual buttresses will dry more slowly than the dominant SW-facing surfaces.
- The open moorland setting means no tree canopy to trap humidity, but the ground at the base of the buttresses can remain boggy after wet spells — check ground moisture as a proxy for rock condition.
- Access is by permissive agreement with the farmer; parking on the road verge at NU 035 399 requires care not to block the farm gate — poor behaviour risks loss of access for all climbers.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the rock is wet from rain on three consecutive days and holds are at significant risk of breakage.
- Surface-dry appearance can be misleading on Fell Sandstone; internal moisture causes most of the strength loss and is invisible.
Reasoning
Rain fell on three of the last three days (12.3mm on Aug 19, 0.9mm on Aug 20, 1.1mm today), following earlier rain on Aug 17 (6.8mm) and Aug 16 (1.9mm), meaning the rock has had no meaningful drying window and is very likely saturated internally.
Although the SW aspect and exposed position normally aid rapid drying, wind speeds have been moderate (15–23 km/h), temperatures cool (13–14°C), and humidity elevated (79–87%), producing only marginal drying conditions with zero consecutive dry days accumulated.
With 23.3mm of rain in the last 7 days and no drying break, the porous Fell Sandstone (up to 20.7% porosity) will have significant internal moisture, risking 10–50% compressive strength loss and iron-oxide hold breakage under load.
Late August should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current cool, unsettled spell with below-average temperatures (14°C vs typical ~18–20°C) and above-average humidity is suppressing the expected summer drying advantage.
Contributing Factors
5
Rain on 5 of the last 6 days (Aug 16–21) totalling over 23mm means the rock has had no opportunity to dry internally.
Today (Aug 21) saw 1.1mm of rain, so the dry-day counter is at zero — well short of the minimum 2–3 dry days required for Fell Sandstone.
The open, wind-exposed, SW-facing setting means that once a dry spell establishes, Kyloe Out will dry faster than average for Fell Sandstone.
Average temperature of 14.1°C and 79% humidity over the past week significantly slow evaporation rates from the rock surface.
77.6mm over the past 28 days represents a wet period that will have kept the sandstone's internal moisture levels persistently elevated.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 2–3 full dry days before visiting; the earliest realistic window opens around August 24 if Aug 22–23 are dry as forecast.
- On arrival, check ground moisture at the base of the buttresses — if the soil is not sandy-dry, the rock is still holding internal moisture.
- If conditions look borderline, consider visiting the less moisture-sensitive Whin Sill crags (e.g. Bowden Doors' whinstone, or Crag Lough) as an alternative.
Do Not Climb
90%
61 days ago
The rock is almost certainly still saturated from recent heavy rain: 12.9mm fell yesterday (Aug 19), 3.2mm today, and 6.8mm on Aug 17, totalling ~25mm in the last four days with zero consecutive dry days. Even with Kyloe Out's exposed, SW-facing aspect, the Fell Sandstone needs at minimum 2–3 dry days after this volume of rain, and drying has not yet begun in earnest.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are exposed on open moorland, which aids wind-drying significantly compared to the sheltered Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the 25mm accumulated over the last 4 days will have deeply penetrated the porous sandstone.
- The SW aspect is favourable for solar drying, but today's northerly wind means the crag face is somewhat sheltered from the prevailing airflow, reducing the wind-drying benefit.
- The base sections of the buttresses and any north-facing sides will retain moisture longest; even when upper faces appear dry, lower holds may still be dangerously weakened.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — parking on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the gate is essential to maintain this goodwill.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to routes through hold breakage and accelerated erosion.
- The surface may appear dry well before the interior has dried — do not be deceived by a dry-looking face after only one dry day.
- The recent prolonged wet spell means internal moisture levels are likely higher than a single rain event would produce; extra drying time is warranted.
Reasoning
With 12.9mm on Aug 19 and 3.2mm today (Aug 20), plus 6.8mm on Aug 17, the rock has had no opportunity to begin meaningful drying and is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold at which significant strength loss occurs.
Drying has effectively not started — rain fell as recently as the early hours of today, and despite moderate winds (26 km/h) and the exposed SW aspect, humidity remains high (81%) and temperatures are cool (14.5°C max), offering very slow evaporation rates.
At current saturation levels, Fell Sandstone will have lost an estimated 30%+ of its compressive strength, making hold breakage a serious risk — particularly on the iron-oxide cemented small holds that define routes here.
Mid-August temperatures are adequate for drying but the recent wet spell (79.4mm over 28 days) means the rock has had limited opportunity to dry out fully at any point in recent weeks, compounding the current saturation.
Contributing Factors
6
12.9mm on Aug 19, 3.2mm today, and 6.8mm on Aug 17 have thoroughly saturated the porous Fell Sandstone with no dry days in between.
The drying clock has not started — rain fell today and the minimum 2–3 dry day requirement for this rock type cannot be met.
The open moorland setting and SW-facing buttresses will accelerate drying once a dry spell begins, but this advantage has not yet had time to take effect.
Today's 14.5°C max and 81% average humidity provide slow evaporation conditions, further delaying the drying process.
79.4mm over the past 28 days means the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted, likely maintaining elevated internal moisture throughout the period.
Moderate to strong winds (18–26 km/h) are forecast for the coming days, which will help accelerate surface drying once rain stops.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is wet from rain within the last few hours and holds will be at serious risk of breakage.
- Wait for at least 2–3 full dry days after the last rain before visiting; the earliest realistic window begins Aug 24 if no further rain falls after Aug 21.
- On arrival, check the ground at the base of the buttresses — if the soil is damp, the rock interior is almost certainly still saturated regardless of surface appearance.
Do Not Climb
92%
62 days ago
Kyloe Out has received significant rain today (5.5mm, with more falling this evening) on top of a wet recent period — 14.5mm in the last 7 days and nearly 69mm in the last 28 days. The rock will be thoroughly wet internally and needs at least 2–3 full dry days before climbing is appropriate.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are exposed to wind from all directions, which is a major advantage for drying compared to the sheltered Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the SW aspect means northerly winds forecast for Aug 20–21 will not directly strike the climbing faces.
- The porous Fell Sandstone here has seen repeated wetting cycles through late July and August — 68.8mm over 28 days — meaning background moisture levels in the rock are likely elevated even between rain events.
- The small iron-oxide holds characteristic of Fell Sandstone are especially vulnerable to breakage when the rock is internally saturated; given the cumulative moisture loading, extra caution is warranted even once surfaces appear dry.
- Access is permissive via agreement with the local farmer — climbing on visibly wet rock or during marginal conditions risks reputational damage to the access arrangement as well as physical damage to the crag.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds — the iron-oxide features that define routes here cannot be replaced.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried sufficiently; use the ground-moisture test at the base of buttresses as a proxy for internal condition.
Reasoning
The rock received 5.5mm today (with further showers forecast this evening totalling ~5mm more), 6.8mm on Aug 17, and 1.9mm on Aug 16, meaning the sandstone has been repeatedly wetted over the past few days and is almost certainly saturated internally.
Despite the SW-facing exposed aspect aiding drying, the last fully dry period was only Aug 10–15 (six days), followed by renewed rain on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th — there has been no meaningful drying window since the 17th, and northerly winds tomorrow will not directly ventilate the SW faces.
With repeated wetting over recent weeks and current saturation, the risk of hold breakage and grain loosening is high; Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet and significant weakening begins at just 1% saturation.
Mid-August is typically one of the better periods for Fell Sandstone, but this summer has seen above-average rainfall recently, and temperatures have been modest (mid-to-high teens), slowing evaporation rates compared to the warm spell of Aug 12–14.
Contributing Factors
7
5.5mm recorded today with further showers of up to 2.6mm forecast this evening, ensuring the rock is freshly saturated.
Rain on Aug 16 (1.9mm), 17 (6.8mm), 18 (0.3mm), and 19 (5.5mm) means the sandstone has had no opportunity to dry internally since the 15th.
68.8mm over 28 days indicates persistently elevated background moisture in the porous sandstone.
A further 2.3mm is forecast for Aug 20, extending the wet period by another day before the drying window begins.
The open, exposed position and SW aspect will help drying once rain stops, though northerly winds on Aug 20–21 are less effective on a SW face.
Temperatures of 13–17°C over the coming days are adequate for evaporation but not exceptional, giving a moderate drying rate.
Humidity is forecast to drop to around 70% from Aug 22 onward, which will support more effective drying from that point.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or tomorrow — the rock is freshly saturated and further rain is expected on Aug 20.
- The earliest realistic window is Aug 23 after two full dry days (Aug 21–22), but assess conditions carefully on arrival — check the base of the buttresses for damp ground.
- Consider visiting Kyloe Out rather than Kyloe-in-the-Woods when conditions improve, as the exposed aspect will dry significantly faster than the sheltered woodland crag.
Do Not Climb
90%
63 days ago
Kyloe Out received 4.1mm of rain overnight/early morning today (18 Aug), following 4.3mm yesterday and 1.9mm the day before — a cumulative ~10mm over three days with no meaningful drying window. The rock will be saturated internally and needs at least 48–72 hours of dry weather before climbing is appropriate.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind and sun on their SW faces, which aids drying significantly compared to nearby Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the base sections and any north-facing flanks will retain moisture longer.
- The porous Fell Sandstone here has been subjected to repeated wetting over the past three weeks (64.6mm in 28 days), meaning deeper pore saturation is likely even where surfaces appear dry.
- Being open moorland at 105m with no tree shelter, wind-driven rain from the prevailing westerlies will have wetted all faces of the buttresses, not just the windward side.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the gate, and respect the land to maintain this goodwill.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes irreversible hold breakage and permanent route damage — the iron-oxide cemented holds are extremely fragile when saturated.
- The rock surface may begin to look dry this afternoon in the wind but the interior will remain dangerously saturated — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
Reasoning
Rain fell overnight (4.1mm today) on top of 4.3mm yesterday and 1.9mm on the 16th, giving no dry window — the sandstone will be thoroughly saturated through its full depth.
Despite the SW aspect and exposed position with decent winds (~28 km/h W today), drying only began mid-morning and the rock has had less than half a day of evaporation after the most recent rain, far short of the 48–72 hours needed after ~10mm cumulative rainfall.
With the rock saturated from repeated recent wetting, compressive strength is reduced by an estimated 30%+ and iron-oxide cemented holds are at significant risk of breakage — climbing now would risk permanent route damage.
Mid-August temperatures are adequate for drying (17–18°C) but the current unsettled spell with further rain forecast tomorrow and the day after prevents the sustained dry period the rock needs.
Contributing Factors
6
4.1mm fell overnight today following 4.3mm yesterday and 1.9mm on the 16th, keeping the rock in a continuously wet state with no drying window.
64.6mm over 28 days indicates a persistently wet period that will have driven moisture deep into the porous sandstone.
There have been no full dry days leading into today, meaning the essential 48–72 hour drying clock has not even started.
The exposed SW-facing buttresses receive good solar radiation and wind, which will accelerate drying once a dry spell begins.
Winds of 20–28 km/h from the W/SW this afternoon will help surface evaporation, but cannot dry saturated rock in hours.
4.2mm is forecast for tomorrow (19th) and 8.9mm on the 20th, resetting the drying clock before it has meaningfully started.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out today or in the next few days — the rock is wet and further rain is forecast through the 20th.
- Monitor conditions from the 21st onwards: if the forecast holds dry from the 21st, the earliest realistic window would be the 23rd, but only if further showers don't materialise.
- If visiting the area, consider non-porous alternatives such as Bowden Doors whinstone (The Wanneys) or check conditions at indoor walls in Alnwick or Newcastle.
Do Not Climb
90%
64 days ago
The rock is currently wet from today's rain (3.7mm recorded/forecast) following a period of intermittent showers, and heavier rain is forecast for the next three days (totalling ~18mm). There is no viable climbing window today or in the coming days until at least 22 August, and even then conditions will need careful assessment.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's exposed, open position and SW aspect are favourable for drying compared to nearby Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the porous Fell Sandstone still demands 2–3 full dry days after meaningful rain.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) vary in aspect and shelter — some faces may hold moisture longer than others, so even when upper sections feel dry, base sections and cracks can remain damp.
- The recent 28-day period has seen nearly 60mm of cumulative precipitation across multiple events, meaning deep internal moisture levels in the sandstone are likely elevated even where the surface appears dry.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — parking on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate is essential to maintaining this goodwill.
Warnings
2
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing risks permanent hold breakage and route damage.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried; do not trust surface appearance alone after this extended wet period.
Reasoning
Rain today (3.7mm total with the heaviest falling this evening) on top of 1.9mm on 16 August and scattered showers earlier in the week means the rock is currently wet both at the surface and internally.
Although the SW aspect and exposed position accelerate drying, the rock has had zero consecutive dry days, and with further rain forecast tomorrow through 21 August, no meaningful drying window will occur until 22 August at the earliest.
Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone risks 10–50% compressive strength loss and hold breakage on the iron oxide features that define routes here; the cumulative ~60mm over 28 days means deep saturation is a real concern.
Summer temperatures (14–17°C) and moderate winds are adequate for drying when dry weather arrives, but the current unsettled Atlantic pattern is preventing any sustained drying period.
Contributing Factors
6
3.7mm today with the bulk falling as heavy showers from 22:00 onwards ensures the rock will be thoroughly wet entering tomorrow.
Zero consecutive dry days to date, with rain also on 16 August (1.9mm) and 9 August (5.3mm) before that, meaning the rock has had no adequate drying window.
An additional 17.7mm is forecast across the next four days, continually re-wetting the rock and resetting any drying progress.
Nearly 60mm over the past 28 days across multiple rain events means internal moisture levels in the porous sandstone are likely elevated well beyond surface appearance.
The open, exposed position with SW aspect and consistent winds (18–25 km/h average) will promote relatively rapid drying once dry weather finally arrives.
Temperatures of 14–22°C provide reasonable evaporation potential when combined with wind, though current humidity around 70–83% somewhat limits this.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or in the coming days — wait for at least 2–3 consecutive dry days after the last rain, which is unlikely before 24 August at the earliest.
- When conditions finally dry, check the base of the buttresses for residual moisture as a reliable indicator of internal rock condition — if the ground at the crag foot is damp, the rock is still wet inside.
- Consider nearby non-porous alternatives (e.g. whinstone crags at Bowden Doors' neighbour Great Wanney, or Northumberland limestone) if you need to climb this week.
Do Not Climb
70%
65 days ago
Today has seen 1.3mm of rain and the forecast shows persistent rainfall over the next four days (totalling ~15.6mm), meaning the rock will not get the sustained dry period needed to be safe. Despite a good drying spell from Aug 10–15, conditions have now reset and are deteriorating.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's exposed, open aspect and SW orientation give it significantly better drying potential than its sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the porous Fell Sandstone still demands 2–3 full dry days after any meaningful rain.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) vary in aspect and shelter — some may hold moisture longer than others, particularly any north-facing facets or lower sections.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement, so maintaining goodwill by avoiding climbing on damp rock is especially important at this venue.
- The 32.7mm deluge on July 26 and subsequent intermittent rain through early August means the sandstone has had repeated wetting cycles, potentially leaving deeper pore saturation even after the recent dry spell.
Warnings
2
- Do not be tempted to climb on apparently dry surfaces — porous Fell Sandstone can appear surface-dry while retaining damaging internal moisture after repeated rain.
- The forecast shows no adequate drying window until at least Aug 21–22; climbing before then risks permanent hold breakage on this irreplaceable sandstone.
Reasoning
Today's 1.3mm of rain has re-wetted the rock surface after a promising 6-day dry spell (Aug 10–15), and with forecast rain arriving tomorrow, the rock will not have time to dry out.
The SW aspect and exposed position would normally allow rapid drying in summer, but the incoming 4-day run of rain (3.5–4.3mm daily) will keep the rock repeatedly wetted with no meaningful drying window until at least Aug 21.
Repeated wetting-drying cycles through July and August, including the heavy 32.7mm event on July 26, increase cumulative grain loosening risk; climbing on insufficiently dried rock would risk permanent hold damage.
Summer temperatures (17–20°C) and moderate winds are favourable for drying when dry weather arrives, but humidity levels of 74–85% over the forecast period will slow evaporation.
Contributing Factors
6
1.3mm of rain today has re-wetted the rock surface, ending the 6-day dry spell that had been allowing recovery.
3.5–4.3mm of rain is forecast daily from Aug 17–20, meaning the rock will be repeatedly saturated with no drying window.
The exposed, south-west facing position gives Kyloe Out excellent drying potential once dry weather returns.
Temperatures of 17–20°C with decent wind speeds will support reasonable evaporation rates when rain stops.
Humidity of 76–85% over the next few days will significantly slow evaporative drying between showers.
55.6mm over the last 28 days including a 32.7mm deluge and repeated smaller events means the deeper pore structure may hold residual moisture.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or over the coming days — wait for a sustained dry window of at least 2–3 days after the rain clears around Aug 21.
- Check conditions from Aug 23 onwards if the forecast dries out as tentatively suggested; use the ground-moisture test at the crag base before committing.
- Consider visiting Kyloe Out's non-porous alternatives in Northumberland (e.g. whinstone crags) if you need to climb this week.
Climbing Outlook