Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Kyloe Out has had 5 consecutive dry days following 5.3mm of rain on August 9th, with warm temperatures (up to 29.9°C), moderate-to-good winds, and a favourable SW aspect — comfortably exceeding the 2–3 dry day guideline for this exposed crag. Conditions today should be genuinely dry, though the forecast deteriorates from the 17th onward with several days of rain.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's open, exposed position and SW aspect mean it dries significantly faster than neighbouring Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but isolated buttresses like Central Wall may have localised seepage at their bases after heavy rain.
- The 32.7mm deluge on July 26th was substantial, but 19 days of mostly dry weather since — including a spell of 27–30°C heat — means deep internal moisture from that event has had ample time to dissipate.
- Access is permissive via agreement with the farmer; park considerately on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate.
- The forecast shows rain returning from August 17th with ~12mm over three days, so the current dry window is closing — today and tomorrow are the best opportunities this week.
Reasoning
The last meaningful rain was 5.3mm on August 9th, followed by 5 fully dry days with warm temperatures peaking at 29.9°C and consistent winds of 18–23 km/h — the rock should be thoroughly dry both externally and internally.
The SW aspect receives strong afternoon solar radiation in summer, and the exposed position with sustained 18–23 km/h winds provides excellent evaporative drying; 5 days far exceeds the 2–3 day guideline for this site after a modest 5.3mm event.
With 5 days of thorough drying in warm, breezy conditions, internal moisture levels should be well below any threshold for structural concern, and freeze-thaw is not a factor in August.
Mid-August is peak summer season with long daylight hours, warm temperatures, and generally favourable drying conditions — this is as good as it gets for Fell Sandstone.
Contributing Factors
6
Five consecutive dry days since the 5.3mm rain on August 9th comfortably exceeds the 2–3 day drying guideline for this exposed crag.
Temperatures reached 22–30°C over the drying period, significantly accelerating evaporation from the porous sandstone.
Sustained winds of 18–24 km/h across the open hillside greatly enhance surface and sub-surface drying.
The south-west facing buttresses receive strong afternoon and evening sun in summer, maximising solar drying.
Average humidity of 71% over the last week is moderate — not ideal but not a significant impediment to drying given the wind and warmth.
Around 12mm of rain is forecast across August 17–19, which will reset drying conditions and close the current window.
Recommendations
3
- Climb today or tomorrow (Aug 15) for the best conditions — the dry window closes from Aug 17 with rain forecast.
- Check the base of buttresses for any residual dampness as a quick field confirmation before committing to routes.
- Park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate, and respect the permissive access agreement.
Previous Analyses
Likely Safe to Climb
85%
2 days ago
Kyloe Out has had four consecutive dry days since the last meaningful rain (5.3mm on 9 August), with warm temperatures up to 29°C, moderate-to-good winds, and low humidity today — conditions that are well within the drying window for this exposed, SW-facing crag. The rock should be thoroughly dry and in good condition for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's exposed, open position and SW aspect mean it dries significantly faster than its sheltered neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods — 2–3 dry days after rain is usually sufficient here.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are freestanding and well-ventilated on all sides, which aids even drying and reduces seepage risk compared to continuous cliff lines.
- The 32.7mm deluge on 26 July was heavy enough to deeply saturate the rock, but 18 days of mostly dry weather since then (with only minor showers) means that deep moisture from that event has long since dissipated.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate, and be respectful of livestock on the open ground.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 5.3mm on 9 August, followed by four full dry days with warm temperatures (17–29°C) and moderate winds, which is comfortably beyond the 24–48 hour minimum for light-to-moderate rain on an exposed SW-facing crag.
Strong SW winds (18–38 km/h over recent days), direct solar radiation on the SW aspect, and summer temperatures averaging 17–22°C have provided excellent evaporative drying conditions, easily sufficient to dry 5.3mm of rain in four days.
Internal moisture from the 9 August shower will have fully evaporated given four days of warm, windy, low-humidity conditions; the rock should be at safe strength for climbing.
Mid-August provides long daylight hours, warm temperatures, and no freeze-thaw risk — this is peak season for Fell Sandstone climbing conditions.
Contributing Factors
6
Four consecutive dry days since 5.3mm on 9 August comfortably exceeds the 24–48 hour guideline for light rain on an exposed crag.
Temperatures reaching 27–29°C today with a 7-day average of 17.3°C provide strong evaporative potential.
The open, exposed setting with SW aspect receives excellent solar radiation and wind exposure, making this one of the fastest-drying Fell Sandstone venues.
Wind speeds of 18–38 km/h over the drying period have significantly accelerated moisture removal from the rock surface and interior.
Humidity dropping to 40–50% during the afternoon provides ideal conditions for final surface drying.
54.6mm over 28 days is moderate for summer but the intervals between showers have been long enough to allow thorough drying each time.
Recommendations
3
- Conditions are good for climbing today — enjoy the warm weather and aim for the afternoon when humidity is lowest (40–50%).
- As a quick field check, confirm the ground at the base of the buttresses is sandy-dry rather than moist before committing to routes.
- Be aware that light rain is forecast from 16 August onwards — plan your best routes for today and tomorrow while conditions are optimal.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
3 days ago
The last significant rain was 5.3mm on August 9th (three days ago), followed by two dry days and today's negligible 0.1mm trace — the SW aspect, exposed position, and moderate winds should have provided reasonable drying, but 10.4mm fell on August 4th and the cumulative recent moisture load (54.7mm over 28 days) warrants a visual check before committing. Conditions are likely acceptable at the surface but a hands-on assessment is prudent given the pattern of repeated wetting events through late July and early August.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated open buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind from all directions, giving it a significant drying advantage over nearby Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The SW aspect means the crag receives direct afternoon sun, which combined with today's forecast 26°C peak and low afternoon humidity (~45%) provides excellent drying conditions through the middle of the day.
- The base of the buttresses can retain moisture longer than upper sections — check the ground at the crag base as a proxy for internal rock moisture before climbing.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement; park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate, as losing access here would affect the whole climbing community.
Warnings
1
- Rain of 7.5mm is forecast for August 16th followed by 2.1mm on August 17th — plan visits for the next three days (Aug 13–15) before conditions deteriorate again.
Reasoning
The most recent meaningful rain was 5.3mm on August 9th, with two full dry days since (Aug 10–11) plus most of today dry, but a broader pattern of repeated wetting (32.7mm on Jul 26, 10.4mm on Aug 4, 1.6mm on Aug 6) means the rock has been subjected to cumulative moisture loading over recent weeks.
The SW-facing exposed aspect with sustained winds of 18–24 km/h and warm temperatures (17–26°C) over the last two dry days should have cleared the 5.3mm from Aug 9 at the surface, though deeper moisture from the heavier earlier events may linger in higher-porosity zones.
With three days of drying since the last moderate rain and warm summer conditions, the structural risk from internal moisture is moderate-to-low, but the cumulative 54.7mm over 28 days means the rock's deeper pore network has had repeated saturation cycles.
Mid-summer conditions are favourable with long daylight hours, warm temperatures, and no freeze-thaw risk, representing the best drying window of the year.
Contributing Factors
6
The last significant precipitation (5.3mm) fell on August 9th, giving approximately 2.5 dry days with only trace moisture (0.1mm) today — approaching the 2–3 day guideline for this exposed crag.
54.7mm over 28 days including a heavy 32.7mm event on July 26th and 10.4mm on August 4th means the rock has been repeatedly wetted, potentially keeping deeper pore saturation elevated.
The south-west facing aspect receives strong afternoon solar radiation, and today's peak of 26°C with humidity dropping to 45% provides excellent evaporative conditions.
The open, exposed position has benefited from sustained winds of 18–24 km/h over recent days, significantly accelerating surface and near-surface drying.
Today's 0.1mm at 18:00 is negligible and unlikely to meaningfully re-wet the rock, but it technically resets the consecutive dry day count.
Average temperatures around 17–22°C with today peaking near 26°C are well above the threshold where drying slows significantly, maximising evaporation rates.
Recommendations
3
- Visit during the warm, low-humidity afternoon window (10:00–17:00) when drying conditions are optimal and check rock surfaces by hand before climbing.
- Test the ground at the base of each buttress — if it is still damp rather than sandy-dry, the rock interior may retain moisture and climbing should be avoided.
- Prioritise upper sections and overhanging features on Saints Wall and Space Buttress, which will have dried fastest; avoid any seepage lines or lower slab sections that may still hold moisture.
Do Not Climb
45%
5 days ago
The last significant rain was 5.3mm on August 9th (yesterday), with only one full dry day elapsed today. Despite Kyloe Out's exposed SW aspect and moderate wind aiding drying, Fell Sandstone requires a minimum of 2–3 dry days after meaningful rain, and the recent weeks have seen repeated wetting events (10.4mm on Aug 4, 1.6mm on Aug 6, 5.3mm on Aug 9) that will have kept internal moisture levels elevated.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are open to wind from all directions, which significantly accelerates surface drying compared to the sheltered Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the porous Fell Sandstone interior dries much more slowly than the surface suggests.
- The repeated wetting cycle over the past two weeks — 32.7mm on July 26, 10.4mm on Aug 4, and 5.3mm on Aug 9 — means the rock has rarely had enough consecutive dry days to fully dry internally, so cumulative moisture loading is a concern.
- The iron oxide deposits that form many of the small holds at Kyloe Out are particularly vulnerable to grain loosening when the sandstone is internally damp, even if the surface feels dry to the touch.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — park carefully on the road verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate to maintain this goodwill.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — only one dry day after 5.3mm of rain is insufficient for porous Fell Sandstone, and the surface may appear dry while the interior remains dangerously weakened.
- The repeated wetting cycle over recent weeks means internal moisture is likely higher than a single rain event would suggest; apply extra caution even when the surface feels dry.
Reasoning
With 5.3mm falling yesterday and repeated rain events over the preceding fortnight (including 10.4mm on Aug 4 and 1.6mm on Aug 6), internal moisture levels in the porous Fell Sandstone are likely still significantly elevated despite today's dry surface conditions.
One dry day with moderate SW winds (~18 km/h) and temperatures around 17°C on a SW-facing exposed crag provides reasonable surface drying, but is insufficient for the 2–3 dry days minimum required after 5mm+ of rain on porous sandstone that has been repeatedly wetted.
The cumulative wetting over recent weeks means internal saturation could be well above the threshold where significant strength loss occurs (80% of compressive strength loss within hours of wetting), creating real risk of hold breakage on the iron oxide features.
Summer conditions are broadly favourable for drying with long daylight hours and reasonable temperatures, but the persistently elevated humidity (77% average over the past week) is slowing evaporation rates.
Contributing Factors
6
5.3mm fell on August 9th, providing only one dry day of drying time — well short of the 2–3 day minimum for Fell Sandstone.
Repeated rain events over the past two weeks (32.7mm, 10.4mm, 5.3mm) have kept the rock in a cycle of rewetting before it could fully dry internally.
The open, wind-exposed SW-facing buttresses receive good solar radiation and wind, accelerating surface drying significantly compared to sheltered crags.
SW winds around 18 km/h are helping to move moist air away from the rock surface, aiding evaporation.
Average humidity of 77% over the past week and 77% today slows evaporation and net drying rates.
Temperatures in the mid-to-high teens provide reasonable evaporative potential, though not exceptional for August.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until August 12th (two full dry days after the last rain) before climbing, when warmer temperatures (25°C+) and lower humidity (57%) will have aided thorough drying.
- If visiting before then, check the ground at the base of each buttress — if the soil is at all damp rather than sandy-dry, the rock interior is still wet.
- Consider Kyloe Out's upper sections and overhanging features first as these drain and dry fastest; avoid slab and lower wall routes which retain moisture longest.
Do Not Climb
70%
5 days ago
Today has seen 3.5mm of rain on top of a recent unsettled spell including 10.4mm on August 4th and 1.6mm on August 6th, meaning the rock has had no meaningful extended dry period. Although Kyloe Out's exposed SW aspect and good wind should aid drying, the porous Fell Sandstone needs at least 2 full dry days before climbing can be considered safe.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind on all sides, which significantly aids drying compared to the sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The SW aspect receives good afternoon and evening solar radiation in summer, but NE winds (which have been common recently) blow onto the sheltered side rather than the face, reducing their drying benefit on the main climbing surfaces.
- The series of separated buttresses means each dries somewhat independently — smaller, thinner blocks like Space Buttress will dry through faster than the larger Central Wall mass.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement; park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 without blocking the farm gate — maintaining this relationship is essential for continued access.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the rock is freshly wet and structurally compromised; climbing risks permanent hold breakage on irreplaceable routes.
- The surface may appear dry well before the interior has dried sufficiently — always apply the ground-moisture test before committing to climb.
Reasoning
With 3.5mm of rain today, 10.4mm on August 4th, and smaller amounts on August 6th and earlier, the rock is currently wet and internally saturated despite any brief dry intervals between showers.
The exposed position and moderate SW winds (~20 km/h) at summer temperatures (~17°C) would normally dry surface moisture within a day, but internal moisture from the cumulative recent rainfall requires a minimum of 48 hours of continuous dry weather to dissipate safely.
The repeated wetting cycles over the past two weeks — including the heavy 32.7mm event on July 26th — mean the sandstone has been subjected to prolonged moisture exposure, elevating the risk of hold breakage on iron oxide-cemented features.
Mid-summer temperatures and day length are favourable for drying, but the current unsettled pattern with frequent small rain events is preventing the rock from fully drying out between showers.
Contributing Factors
6
3.5mm of rain today has freshly wetted the rock surface and re-saturated the near-surface pore structure, resetting the drying clock.
16.3mm in the past 7 days including 10.4mm on August 4th means the rock has had no extended dry period to fully purge internal moisture.
The fully exposed position with SW aspect receives excellent solar radiation and wind, giving Kyloe Out some of the fastest drying potential of any Fell Sandstone crag.
Winds of ~20 km/h and temperatures around 17°C provide reasonable evaporative conditions, though humidity at 81% today limits drying efficiency.
Today's humidity of 81% slows evaporation from the rock surface and reduces the rate at which internal moisture can escape.
With rain today the dry-day count is zero, well short of the minimum 2-day dry period required for porous Fell Sandstone.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until August 11th — two full dry days after today's rain — before considering a visit, and check the forecast hasn't deteriorated.
- On arrival, check the ground at the base of each buttress: if the soil or sand is still visibly damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally.
- If you do visit on August 11th, prioritise the thinner, more exposed buttresses (e.g. Space Buttress) which will have dried fastest, and avoid any sections showing seepage or dark patches.
Do Not Climb
45%
6 days ago
The crag received 10.4mm of rain on August 4th followed by 1.6mm on August 6th, with only one full dry day since the last meaningful rain; despite the exposed SW aspect and moderate winds aiding drying, insufficient time has elapsed to be confident the porous Fell Sandstone is dry internally. Today also recorded a trace of precipitation (0.1mm), and tomorrow brings another 1mm, further hindering the drying process.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The 32.7mm deluge on July 26th deeply saturated the rock, and although subsequent drying has occurred, the follow-up rains on August 4th (10.4mm) and August 6th (1.6mm) will have re-wetted already-vulnerable sandstone before it fully recovered.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are open and exposed to wind from all directions, which significantly aids drying compared to the sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The SW aspect benefits from afternoon solar radiation in summer, but the prevailing NE-to-SE winds of the past week would not have driven air across the main face as effectively as the current westerly-southwesterly flow.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — climbers must park carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 and not block the farm gate, maintaining the goodwill that keeps this crag open.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the Fell Sandstone has not had sufficient drying time since the 10.4mm rain on August 4th and 1.6mm on August 6th, and internal moisture poses a real risk of hold breakage and permanent route damage.
- Tomorrow's forecast 1mm rain will further delay safe climbing conditions.
Reasoning
The 10.4mm rain on August 4th would have significantly re-saturated the porous Fell Sandstone, and the 1.6mm on August 6th interrupted what was only a one-day drying window, meaning the rock has had fewer than two full dry days since meaningful rainfall.
The exposed SW aspect and moderate-to-strong winds (23–38 km/h from SW/W) since August 5th are favourable for drying, but with only ~1.5 genuinely dry days elapsed since the last 1.6mm rain on August 6th, the community-standard minimum of 2–3 dry days has not been met.
Internal moisture from the recent 10.4mm event likely persists within the sandstone matrix despite surface drying, creating risk of hold breakage on the iron oxide-cemented features that define routes here.
Summer temperatures (15–21°C) and moderate humidity (66–74%) provide reasonable evaporative conditions, but the cumulative 49.6mm over 28 days indicates a wetter-than-ideal period that keeps background moisture levels elevated.
Contributing Factors
6
10.4mm fell on August 4th — well above the 'heavy rain' threshold — requiring a minimum 48–72 hours of dry weather for adequate drying.
1.6mm on August 6th and trace precipitation today (0.1mm) have repeatedly reset the drying clock, preventing a sustained multi-day dry window.
Strong winds (24–38 km/h) from SW/W directly hitting the SW-facing buttresses provide excellent evaporative drying conditions.
Temperatures of 18–21°C over recent days support reasonable evaporation rates from the rock surface.
49.6mm over 28 days with multiple heavy events (32.7mm on July 26th, 10.4mm on August 4th) has kept background moisture levels in the sandstone elevated.
1.0mm forecast for August 9th will further interrupt the drying process and re-wet the surface layer.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until at least August 11th — two full dry days after the forecast rain on August 9th — before climbing, and check that the ground at the base of the buttresses is sandy-dry.
- If visiting after August 11th, prioritise the upper sections and overhanging features of the isolated buttresses, which will have dried fastest.
- Check conditions at Kyloe Out before heading to Kyloe-in-the-Woods, as the sheltered woodland crag will take significantly longer to dry.
Do Not Climb
55%
7 days ago
Heavy rain on August 4th (10.4mm) followed by further rain on August 6th (1.6mm) means the rock has had only one full dry day. Despite the exposed SW aspect and strong winds today, Fell Sandstone requires 2–3 dry days after significant rain, and conditions are not yet met.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's open, exposed position and SW aspect give it significantly better drying than its sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but 10.4mm on Aug 4th followed by 1.6mm on Aug 6th resets the drying clock.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) vary in aspect and shelter — some faces may hold moisture longer than the dominant SW aspect suggests.
- The cumulative 49.5mm over 28 days indicates the sandstone has been repeatedly wetted through the summer, meaning deeper pore saturation is likely even when the surface appears dry.
- Strong SW winds today (23 km/h) hitting the main face directly are excellent for surface drying, but internal moisture from the recent heavy event needs more time to migrate out.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — one dry day after 10.4mm rain is insufficient; the rock surface may appear dry but internal saturation risks hold breakage and permanent route damage.
- The forecast shows further rain on August 8th and 9th, which will re-saturate the rock and extend the required drying period.
Reasoning
The 10.4mm event on August 4th would have significantly saturated the porous Fell Sandstone, and the subsequent 1.6mm on August 6th re-wetted the surface, leaving only one dry day (today) for drying — insufficient for internal moisture to dissipate.
Today's strong SW winds (23 km/h) directly hitting the SW-facing rock at 69% humidity provide good surface drying conditions, but only one day of drying after the last rain is well short of the 2–3 day minimum required for this rock type.
With likely internal saturation from recent repeated wetting events (10.4mm on Aug 4th plus earlier 32.7mm on Jul 26th), the iron oxide holds are at elevated risk of breakage — potentially 10–50% compressive strength reduction.
Mid-summer temperatures (~18–19°C) and reasonable wind exposure are favourable for drying, but the persistently elevated humidity averaging 78% over the last week has slowed evaporation rates.
Contributing Factors
6
10.4mm fell on August 4th with a further 1.6mm on August 6th, providing only one full dry day before today.
Only one consecutive dry day has elapsed since the last rain, well below the 2–3 day minimum for Fell Sandstone even in good drying conditions.
49.5mm over 28 days including a 32.7mm event on July 26th means the rock has been repeatedly saturated, increasing deep pore moisture.
Today's 23 km/h SW winds directly hitting the main SW-facing rock surface significantly accelerate surface evaporation.
Temperatures around 18–19°C aid evaporation, though recent week's average humidity of 78% partially offsets this benefit.
0.5mm forecast for August 8th will re-wet the surface and reset the drying clock before adequate drying has occurred.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 2 full dry days after the last rain before climbing — the earliest realistic window is August 11th if the Aug 9th rain (3.5mm) is the last significant event.
- If visiting, check the base of the buttresses for damp ground as a proxy for internal rock moisture — if the soil at the crag foot is not sandy-dry, the rock is still wet inside.
- Consider Kyloe Out over Kyloe-in-the-Woods when conditions do improve, as the exposed open ground dries significantly faster than the sheltered woodland setting.
Do Not Climb
65%
9 days ago
The crag received 10.4mm of rain on August 4th and 2.5mm of rain today (August 6th, mostly in the early hours), meaning the rock has had no meaningful drying window since the last significant wetting. Despite the exposed SW aspect and forecast dry spell ahead, the Fell Sandstone needs at least 48 hours of dry weather before it can be considered safe to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated open buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) benefit from all-round air circulation and dry faster than the sheltered woodland neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the 32.7mm deluge on July 26th followed by repeated smaller showers means the rock has had little chance to fully dry out internally.
- The SW aspect catches afternoon and evening sun well in summer, and the exposed hilltop position means wind-assisted drying is excellent — strong SW/W winds forecast from tomorrow should accelerate surface drying significantly.
- The porous Fell Sandstone at these buttresses absorbs water rapidly and the iron-oxide cemented holds that define many routes are especially vulnerable to breakage when the rock is internally saturated, even if the surface feels dry.
- Access is permissive via the farmer — parking carefully on the verge at NU 035 399 and respecting the agreement is essential to maintaining access for all climbers.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the rock is actively wet from this morning's rain and internally saturated from repeated recent precipitation.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried; Fell Sandstone holds can snap without warning when the rock is internally damp, risking serious injury and permanent route damage.
Reasoning
With 10.4mm on Aug 4th, trace amounts on Aug 5th area (0.0mm recorded but 37.8 km/h SW wind helped), and 2.5mm of rain today concentrated in the early hours, the rock is currently wet and internally saturated from repeated recent wetting events.
Today's rain ended around 05:00 and the afternoon looks dry with moderate winds, but this provides only half a day of drying — far short of the 48-hour minimum needed for Fell Sandstone after combined recent precipitation totalling ~13mm in the last 3 days.
The cumulative wetting from 32.7mm on July 26th, 3mm on July 28th, and further rain on Aug 3–4 and today means the sandstone has been repeatedly saturated, raising the risk of hold breakage and grain loosening even where the surface appears dry.
Summer temperatures (14–22°C) and long daylight hours are favourable for drying, and no freeze-thaw risk exists, but the recent unsettled spell has kept humidity elevated (averaging 76% over the last week).
Contributing Factors
7
2.5mm fell in the early hours this morning, resetting the drying clock to zero consecutive dry days.
Significant rainfall just two days ago deeply saturated the already-moist sandstone, and insufficient drying time has elapsed since.
50.4mm over the last 28 days including a 32.7mm event on July 26th means the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted before fully drying.
The open hilltop position with SW-facing buttresses maximises solar gain and wind exposure, giving Kyloe Out faster drying than most Northumberland sandstone crags.
SW winds of 25–37 km/h forecast for the next few days will significantly accelerate surface and near-surface drying.
Humidity is declining from elevated levels but remains moderate enough to slightly slow evaporation rates.
Forecast highs of 18–22°C over the coming days provide adequate thermal energy for evaporative drying.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 48 hours from this morning's rain — the earliest reasonable window is the afternoon of August 8th, and even then check the base of the crag for residual moisture before committing.
- If visiting on Aug 8th or 9th, test rock at the base of each buttress with your palm: if it feels cool or slightly tacky compared to a dry reference surface, the interior is still damp — walk away.
- Consider targeting the upper sections and any overhanging features first, as these will dry fastest; avoid lower slab sections and any areas with visible seepage or moss.
Do Not Climb
92%
11 days ago
Kyloe Out received 7.2mm of rain today (most falling between 01:00–13:00), on top of 0.8mm yesterday and a very wet July including 32.7mm on July 26th. The rock is currently saturated and needs a minimum of 2–3 dry days before climbing is appropriate, which the forecast does not provide.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind from all directions, which is a significant advantage for drying — but today's SE wind means it is blowing onto the SW-facing rock rather than across it, reducing evaporative efficiency.
- The 32.7mm deluge on July 26th would have deeply saturated the porous Fell Sandstone, and subsequent lighter rain events on July 28, 31, August 1, 3, and today have prevented any meaningful cumulative drying period since then.
- The open moorland setting means ground moisture at the base of the buttresses is a reliable indicator — if the turf and soil around the crag base are damp, the rock interior is certainly still wet.
- Access is permissive via agreement with the local farmer; parking on the road verge at NU 035 399 and not blocking the farm gate is essential to maintaining this access arrangement.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds and routes — the iron oxide features that create Kyloe Out's small holds are especially vulnerable to grain loosening when saturated.
- The rock surface may appear dry later this afternoon after the clearing, but interior saturation from today's 7.2mm (and the preceding wet period) means the rock is structurally compromised — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
Reasoning
The rock received 7.2mm of rain today with the bulk falling in the early hours and around midday, following 0.8mm yesterday and repeated light wettings since the major 32.7mm event on July 26th — the sandstone interior is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold.
Despite the SW aspect and exposed position, there have been zero consecutive fully dry days since August 2nd, and even that followed closely spaced rain events; the afternoon clearing today only begins the drying clock with further rain forecast tomorrow (2.5mm) and on August 6th (0.5mm), preventing any sustained drying window.
With repeated wetting events over the past 10 days and no extended drying period, the Fell Sandstone is at significant risk of hold breakage and grain loosening — compressive strength is likely reduced by 30%+ given probable high internal saturation.
Mid-summer temperatures (~15–22°C) and longer daylight hours are favourable for drying in principle, but the current unsettled pattern with frequent showers and elevated humidity (averaging 76% over the past week) is negating much of that seasonal advantage.
Contributing Factors
7
7.2mm fell today, predominantly between 01:00 and 13:00, thoroughly wetting the rock surface and replenishing internal moisture.
There have been zero consecutive dry days since the major 32.7mm event on July 26th, with light rain on July 28, 31, August 1, 3, and today preventing any meaningful drying.
45mm over the past 28 days including 32.7mm in a single day on July 26th means the deeper pore structure of the sandstone has been repeatedly saturated.
Average humidity of 76% over the past week and 89% today significantly slows evaporative drying from the rock surface.
The south-west facing, fully exposed position gives Kyloe Out the best possible drying characteristics for a Fell Sandstone crag, but this advantage is insufficient given the ongoing rainfall.
2.5mm is forecast for tomorrow (Aug 5), with additional showers on Aug 6 (0.5mm), Aug 8 (2.1mm), and Aug 9 (1.3mm), preventing any sustained drying window in the next 5 days.
Temperatures around 17–22°C support reasonable evaporation rates when rain stops, though not enough to compensate for the frequent wetting.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or in the coming days — the rock has been repeatedly wetted and needs at minimum 2–3 consecutive dry, breezy days before conditions will be appropriate.
- Monitor the forecast for a sustained dry window of at least 48–72 hours before planning a visit; the current unsettled pattern does not provide this.
- If visiting the area, consider nearby non-porous alternatives (e.g. whinstone crags) that are less sensitive to moisture, though slippery surfaces remain a concern.
Do Not Climb
90%
12 days ago
Kyloe Out is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today has seen intermittent light rain throughout the morning and early afternoon (1.9mm total), and tomorrow's forecast brings heavy rain (14.4mm), with further showers on each of the following three days — there is no adequate drying window in sight.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The 32.7mm deluge on July 26th would have deeply saturated the porous Fell Sandstone, and subsequent light rain on July 28, 31, August 1, and today has prevented full internal drying despite the exposed SW aspect.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are exposed to wind from most directions, which normally aids drying, but the persistent NE winds of late July were blowing across the back of the SW-facing rock rather than across the climbing face, reducing effective drying.
- The iron oxide deposits that form the small holds at Kyloe Out are especially vulnerable to grain loosening when moisture is present — even surface-dry rock with internal moisture can lose holds under load.
- Access is permissive via the farmer's goodwill; climbing on visibly wet or questionable rock here risks both route damage and the access agreement.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet or internally damp Fell Sandstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds — do not climb.
- The surface may appear dry in sheltered spots while the interior remains dangerously saturated; do not be misled by a dry-looking surface.
Reasoning
The rock has not had a consecutive dry period of more than 3 days since the 32.7mm soaking on July 26th, with repeated light rain (July 28, 31, August 1, and today) topping up moisture levels in the porous sandstone.
Although the SW aspect and exposed position normally provide above-average drying, the predominantly NE/E winds of recent days have offered limited face-on drying, and today's rain followed by tomorrow's 14.4mm forecast means any partial drying will be completely reset.
The cumulative moisture loading from repeated wetting events since July 26th means the sandstone is likely at elevated saturation levels internally, posing significant hold breakage risk even where surfaces appear dry.
Summer temperatures (15–21°C) are adequate for drying but the current unsettled spell with high humidity (70–93%) and frequent rain is preventing the rock from reaching safe moisture levels.
Contributing Factors
6
The 32.7mm event on July 26th deeply saturated the rock, and subsequent light rain has prevented full recovery.
1.9mm of scattered showers through the morning and early afternoon has re-wetted the rock surface.
14.4mm forecast for August 4th will thoroughly re-saturate the sandstone, resetting any drying progress.
Rain is forecast on each of the next four days (Aug 4–8), totalling 25.2mm, with no extended dry window.
The open, exposed position and SW aspect would normally accelerate drying significantly in dry weather, but there is currently no dry spell to exploit.
Humidity has been 70–93% over recent days, suppressing evaporative drying from the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out today or in the coming week — the rock is wet and the forecast offers no adequate drying window.
- Monitor conditions from around August 10th onwards; at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with good wind will be needed after the last rain before visiting.
- If visiting the area, consider non-porous alternatives such as Whinstone crags (e.g. Crag Lough on the Whin Sill) which can be climbed when dry on the surface.
Climbing Outlook