Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Kyloe Out has received repeated rainfall over the past two weeks (53.6mm in 28 days, with significant rain on June 1–4 and further showers on June 6–11, plus light rain today), and the rock has not had a meaningful dry spell to recover. Despite the exposed SW aspect, the persistent high humidity (77% average over the last week, 88% today) and lack of consecutive dry days mean the porous Fell Sandstone is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind, which helps surface drying, but the separated blocks also collect rain from all sides, increasing saturation depth.
- The SW aspect would normally be an advantage, but today's 100% cloud cover and high humidity negate most solar drying benefit.
- The open moorland setting means the ground around the crag base will be a reliable indicator — if the peat and grass are damp, the sandstone certainly is.
- Access is permissive via a farmer's agreement; climbing on visibly damp rock risks both the routes and the goodwill that maintains access.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on this saturated Fell Sandstone risks permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage — the iron-oxide cemented holds are critically weakened when wet.
- The rock surface may appear deceptively dry during brief sunny intervals while the interior remains dangerously saturated.
Reasoning
With 5.1mm on June 11, trace amounts on June 15, and 0.8mm today — plus a cumulative 53.6mm over 28 days — the porous Fell Sandstone has had no opportunity to dry internally despite brief surface drying on June 12–14.
The best drying window was June 12–13 (two dry days with strong westerly winds at 34–38 km/h and 68% humidity), but this was interrupted by light rain on June 15 and again today, resetting the drying clock before the rock could fully recover from the heavy June 1–4 soaking.
Given cumulative saturation from weeks of intermittent rain, the iron-oxide cemented holds are at elevated risk of breakage — the 10–50% strength reduction range (Bell, 1978) is very likely in play.
Early June in Northumberland can deliver prolonged unsettled spells; the current pattern of repeated showers interspersed with brief dry intervals is typical and particularly damaging because the rock never fully dries between events.
Contributing Factors
6
53.6mm over 28 days with significant events on June 1–4 (39.2mm combined) and continued showers through June 11, plus rain today, means the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted.
Zero consecutive dry days to date — the minimum 2–3 dry day guideline for Fell Sandstone is far from being met.
Average humidity of 77% over the past week and 88% today severely limits evaporation rates even at the exposed surface.
The open, wind-exposed position and SW aspect give Kyloe Out above-average drying potential when conditions allow, but this advantage is currently negated by ongoing moisture input.
June 12–13 saw 34–38 km/h westerly winds with lower humidity (68%), which will have aided some surface drying during that brief window.
0.8mm today with further 0.4mm of light rain in the evening resets any surface drying progress and maintains the moisture film on the rock.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out today or in the coming days — the rock needs at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with low humidity to begin recovering from this prolonged wet period.
- If visiting the area, consider non-porous alternatives such as whinstone crags (e.g. the Great Whin Sill venues) which are less vulnerable to moisture damage.
- Monitor the forecast carefully — the next dry window after June 21 could open an opportunity, but only if June 22 onwards delivers sustained dry weather with humidity below 70%.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
90%
2 days ago
Kyloe Out has experienced a prolonged wet period with over 53mm of rain in the past 28 days, including significant falls on June 1–4 (39.2mm) and further repeated wetting through June 6–11. Although June 12–14 were dry, today has seen light precipitation with more rain forecast tonight and over the coming days — the rock has not had adequate cumulative drying time and internal moisture levels will be dangerously high.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are exposed on open ground and benefit from wind-assisted drying, but the sustained wet spell from late May through mid-June will have deeply saturated the porous Fell Sandstone beyond what 3 dry days can remedy.
- The SW aspect receives good afternoon sun in summer, but recent temperatures have been cool (averaging only 11.6°C over the past week) and humidity has been persistently high (75% average), limiting effective evaporation despite the wind exposure.
- The cumulative 53mm over 28 days — with the heaviest concentration in the first two weeks of June — means the sandstone has been repeatedly re-wetted before having a chance to dry internally, creating a deep moisture reservoir that surface-dry conditions cannot reveal.
- Base sections of the buttresses and any north-facing flanks will be the last to dry; even upper sections on the main SW faces are unlikely to be reliably dry given the pattern of repeated wetting and only brief dry windows.
Warnings
3
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — hold breakage is a genuine risk and causes permanent, irreversible damage to these routes.
- The rock surface may appear dry after the recent windy days but internal moisture from the prolonged wet spell will still be dangerously high — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
- Further rain is forecast every day through June 20, preventing any meaningful drying progress in the near term.
Reasoning
The rock has been repeatedly saturated over the past two weeks (39.2mm June 1–4, then further rain on June 6–11 totalling ~10.6mm), with only three genuinely dry days (June 12–14) before today's light rain — internal moisture levels will remain critically high despite any surface drying.
The three dry days on June 12–14 brought strong westerly winds (34–38 km/h) and lower humidity (~68%), which will have dried the surface effectively, but this is insufficient to draw out the deep internal moisture from the prolonged saturation period — and today's 0.6mm plus forecast rain resets even that limited surface drying.
With the sandstone likely still well above 1% internal saturation after weeks of repeated wetting, compressive strength will be significantly reduced, making hold breakage a real risk especially on the small iron-oxide features that characterise Fell Sandstone.
Early June in Northumberland has delivered below-average temperatures and above-average rainfall this year; while days are long and the SW aspect gets reasonable sun hours, the cool, humid conditions have severely limited drying potential.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 53mm in 28 days with the heaviest rain concentrated in early June (39.2mm over June 1–4) has deeply saturated the porous sandstone.
Only three consecutive dry days (June 12–14) occurred before today's rain, far short of what is needed to dry deeply saturated Fell Sandstone.
Light rain today (0.6mm) with more forecast tonight and 3.7mm tomorrow resets any surface drying progress from the brief dry spell.
The open, wind-exposed position and SW aspect provide the best possible drying conditions for a Fell Sandstone crag, but cannot compensate for the sustained wet spell.
The 7-day average temperature of only 11.6°C and 75% humidity significantly slow evaporation and internal drying.
Winds of 30–38 km/h on June 12–13 and consistent 20+ km/h through the period have aided surface evaporation.
Rain on June 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 repeatedly re-wetted the rock before it could dry, maintaining deep internal saturation.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out today or in the coming days — the rock needs an extended dry spell of at least 3–4 consecutive warm, dry, windy days to recover from the prolonged wet period.
- Monitor the forecast beyond June 20; if a sustained dry spell materialises from June 21 onwards, conditions could become suitable by late June.
- If visiting the area, consider non-porous alternatives such as whinstone crags (e.g. the Great Whin Sill venues) which are not susceptible to the same moisture damage.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
3 days ago
After a prolonged wet period (over 50mm in the last 28 days including heavy rain from June 1–4 and further showers through June 11), Kyloe Out has had roughly 2.5 dry days with strong winds and moderate temperatures — enough for the exposed, SW-facing surfaces to have made significant drying progress, but the cumulative saturation from repeated wetting events means internal moisture may still linger. A careful on-site assessment is essential before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The prolonged wet spell from late May through mid-June (52.6mm over 28 days) will have deeply saturated the sandstone, meaning surface dryness may not reflect internal moisture state.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttress layout — Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall — means each buttress dries independently; south-west-facing aspects will be driest while any north-facing flanks or sheltered corners may still be damp.
- The exposed hilltop setting and strong recent winds (30–38 km/h from W/SW on June 12–13) are the strongest drying factors working in the crag's favour.
- Base sections of the buttresses and any areas near ground level with grass or moss will hold moisture longest — use these as your litmus test before climbing higher.
Warnings
2
- The rock may appear surface-dry while remaining significantly weakened internally — Fell Sandstone loses substantial strength at very low moisture content, so do not rely on visual or touch tests alone.
- Further rain is forecast from tomorrow (June 15) onwards, meaning conditions are likely to deteriorate again; if climbing today, be prepared for the rock to be marginal at best.
Reasoning
The rock received repeated soakings over the period June 1–11 (totalling ~50mm with only brief dry intervals), deeply saturating the porous Fell Sandstone well beyond surface level.
Three dry days (June 12–14) with strong westerly/NW winds (23–38 km/h) and the SW aspect provide above-average drying, but cumulative deep saturation from repeated wetting means the standard 2–3 day drying rule may be insufficient.
The repeated wetting-drying cycles over the past two weeks, combined with possible residual internal moisture, mean iron-oxide holds could still be weakened — a moderate structural risk remains.
Early summer temperatures (13–18°C) and lengthening days are helpful for drying, though the below-average recent temperatures (12°C average over 7 days) and moderate humidity (75%) temper the drying rate.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 50mm of rain in 28 days with heavy episodes (10–13mm days) on June 1–4 will have deeply penetrated the porous sandstone.
No rain since June 11, giving roughly 2.5–3 full drying days by the end of today.
Sustained winds of 23–38 km/h over the dry period significantly accelerate surface and near-surface evaporation on this exposed hilltop.
The south-west facing aspect receives strong afternoon solar radiation in June, boosting evaporation rates on the main climbing faces.
Average humidity of 75% over the last week limits the evaporative drying potential compared to drier conditions.
Recent average temperatures around 12°C are cooler than typical mid-June, slightly slowing the drying process.
Trace amounts of rain on June 6, 7, and 8 (0.1–0.8mm) repeatedly re-wetted the surface, partially resetting the drying clock before the current dry spell.
Recommendations
3
- Conduct a thorough hands-on check of holds and the base of each buttress before climbing — if the ground at the crag base is damp or holds feel cool and clammy, wait another day.
- Prioritise the most exposed, upper sections of SW-facing buttresses (e.g. the tops of Space Buttress and Central Wall) which will have dried fastest; avoid sheltered corners and base-level problems.
- Consider waiting until June 15–16 only if tomorrow stays dry — but note that further rain is forecast from June 15 onwards, so today may be the best window if conditions check out on-site.
Do Not Climb
45%
4 days ago
Despite two dry days with strong winds, the preceding period saw substantial rainfall (over 50mm in the last 28 days, including 5.1mm just two days ago and repeated wet spells), meaning the porous Fell Sandstone is very likely still holding internal moisture. The exposed SW aspect and today's strong westerly winds are helping, but two days is marginal drying time after this cumulative wetting pattern — we recommend waiting.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The prolonged wet spell from June 1–11 deposited over 50mm across multiple events, saturating the rock repeatedly and preventing any meaningful drying between showers.
- Kyloe Out's isolated open buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are fully exposed to wind and sun, which is a significant advantage over the sheltered woodland crag, but lower sections and north-facing facets of individual buttresses will lag behind.
- The series of light showers on June 6–10 (0.1–2.2mm each day) repeatedly re-wetted the rock surface, resetting the drying clock each time even though individual amounts were small.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — avoid blocking the farm gate at NU 035 399 and maintain good relations by not climbing on visibly damp rock.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on Fell Sandstone that appears even slightly damp — significant weakening begins at just 1% saturation, and holds can snap without warning.
- The surface may look and feel dry while the interior remains saturated after this prolonged wet period — visual dryness alone is not sufficient assurance.
Reasoning
The rock experienced repeated heavy wetting from June 1–4 (39.2mm total) followed by intermittent light rain through June 11, with only two fully dry days since — internal moisture levels are very likely still elevated despite surface drying.
Today's strong 39 km/h westerly wind and yesterday's 35 km/h SW wind on the SW-facing exposed crag provide excellent evaporative conditions, but two days of drying after weeks of cumulative saturation is insufficient for porous Fell Sandstone to dry internally.
With repeated saturation cycles over the past two weeks, the sandstone's iron oxide cemented holds are at elevated risk of grain loosening and breakage — climbing now risks permanent damage to the small holds these routes rely on.
Early June temperatures of 14–18°C are moderate and helpful for drying, but humidity averaging 74% over the past week limits evaporative capacity compared to ideal summer conditions.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 50mm in the last 28 days with 39mm falling June 1–4 alone means the rock has been deeply and repeatedly saturated.
Two consecutive dry days after the last rain (5.1mm on June 11) falls short of the recommended 2–3 dry days minimum, especially given the cumulative wetting.
Winds of 35–39 km/h from the SW/W over the past two days on this exposed, SW-facing crag significantly accelerate surface evaporation.
The open moorland setting and SW aspect maximise solar gain and airflow, making Kyloe Out one of the faster-drying Northumberland crags.
Average humidity of 74% over the past week limits evaporative potential, meaning drying proceeds more slowly than in ideal low-humidity conditions.
Light rain on six of the eight days between June 3–11 repeatedly re-wetted surfaces and prevented any sustained drying period from developing.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least one more full dry day (ideally two) before climbing — tomorrow (June 14) may be suitable for an on-site assessment if it stays dry.
- If visiting, perform the base-of-crag ground test: if soil and vegetation at the foot of the buttresses are still damp, the rock is almost certainly wet internally.
- Prioritise the most exposed upper sections and overhanging faces if you do assess conditions; avoid lower walls, slabs, and any areas with visible seepage or darkened rock.
Do Not Climb
35%
5 days ago
Despite today being dry with strong westerly winds, Kyloe Out has had a prolonged wet spell with over 50mm of rain in the last 28 days, including 5.1mm just yesterday (June 11). Only one full dry day has elapsed since the last significant rain, which is well short of the 2–3 dry days minimum needed for this porous Fell Sandstone — the rock is almost certainly still holding internal moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's exposed, open setting and SW aspect mean it benefits significantly from today's strong westerly wind and any available sunshine, giving it a meaningful drying advantage over its sheltered neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) vary in aspect and shelter — some faces may dry faster than others, and lower sections near the ground will retain moisture longest.
- The prolonged wet period from late May through June 11 (over 50mm across multiple events) will have deeply saturated the porous sandstone, meaning internal moisture is likely present even where surfaces appear dry.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — climbing on visibly damp rock or during marginal conditions risks both route damage and the goodwill that maintains access to this crag.
Warnings
2
- The rock surface may appear dry while internal moisture remains dangerously high after weeks of repeated wetting — do not be deceived by a dry-looking surface.
- Hold breakage risk is elevated due to prolonged saturation; even familiar holds may be compromised.
Reasoning
With 5.1mm falling yesterday, 2.0mm the day before, and a cumulative 50mm+ over the preceding weeks, the Fell Sandstone at Kyloe Out is almost certainly saturated internally despite only surface dampness potentially remaining.
Today's strong 33.5 km/h westerly wind and low 68% humidity hitting the SW-facing, exposed crag provide excellent drying conditions, but only one dry day after persistent rain is far too short for deeply soaked porous sandstone.
The rock has been repeatedly wetted over a prolonged period, meaning internal saturation is likely well above the threshold where significant compressive strength loss occurs — hold breakage risk is elevated.
Early June temperatures (averaging 12°C over the last week) are moderate but not warm, and while freeze-thaw is not a concern, the cool temperatures and above-average humidity slow evaporative drying.
Contributing Factors
6
5.1mm fell yesterday (June 11) on top of repeated rain events totalling over 50mm in 28 days, deeply saturating the porous sandstone.
Just one full dry day since yesterday's rain is far below the 2–3 day minimum required for Fell Sandstone, even at well-exposed crags.
Multiple rain events from late May through June 11 will have driven moisture deep into the rock, requiring extended drying well beyond the surface-dry stage.
Today's 33.5 km/h westerly wind on this exposed, SW-facing crag provides excellent surface evaporation conditions.
Humidity at 68% today is the lowest in over a week, supporting more effective drying than recent days.
The 7-day average of 12.1°C is modest for June and slows the evaporative drying rate compared to warmer conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — wait for at least two full dry days (ideally three) before visiting, given the prolonged wet period.
- If visiting tomorrow or Saturday, perform a thorough touch-test at the base of the crag and on lower holds; if the ground or rock base feels at all damp, walk away.
- Consider Kyloe Out before Kyloe-in-the-Woods when conditions are marginal, as its exposed open setting dries significantly faster than the sheltered woodland crag.
Do Not Climb
92%
6 days ago
Kyloe Out has received substantial rainfall over the past two weeks (~56mm in 28 days), with significant rain on June 1–4 (39.2mm) followed by intermittent light showers and a further 8.6mm today; the rock will be thoroughly saturated internally despite the exposed aspect. Even with the favourable SW aspect and wind exposure, the cumulative moisture loading and lack of any sustained dry period means the sandstone needs several consecutive dry days before it will be safe to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's exposed, open moorland setting and SW aspect give it above-average drying potential compared to its sheltered neighbour Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but this advantage is negated by the persistent rain pattern of the last 10+ days.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) have variable aspects and some sheltered lower sections that will retain moisture longer than the upper exposed faces.
- The prolonged wet spell from June 1–4 (39.2mm over four days) will have deeply saturated the porous Fell Sandstone, and subsequent light showers on June 6–10 plus today's 8.6mm have prevented any meaningful drying.
- The base areas of the buttresses will be the last to dry — check ground conditions at the crag foot as a proxy for internal rock moisture before any future climbing visit.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated Fell Sandstone risks permanent hold breakage and irreversible damage to routes — the iron-oxide-cemented holds are especially fragile when wet.
- The rock surface may appear dry well before the interior has adequately dried; do not rely on visual appearance alone.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally: 39.2mm fell over June 1–4, followed by repeated light rain events through to today's 8.6mm, giving zero consecutive fully dry days and no opportunity for the deep moisture to evaporate.
Despite the SW aspect and exposed wind position (winds 19–35 km/h recently), the absence of any dry spell longer than a single day since May 30 means surface drying has been repeatedly reset, and deep capillary moisture from the heavy June 1–4 rain remains trapped within the stone.
With internal saturation likely well above the critical 1% threshold, compressive strength could be reduced by 10–50%, making hold breakage a serious risk on these iron-oxide-cemented Fell Sandstone features.
Early June should offer reasonable drying conditions with long daylight hours and moderate temperatures (14–17°C), but the unusually wet spell has overridden seasonal advantages; once a sustained dry window arrives, 2–3 days should suffice given the exposed aspect.
Contributing Factors
6
39.2mm fell over June 1–4, with further accumulations on June 6–10 and 8.6mm today, totalling 56.2mm in 28 days with no sustained dry break.
Today received 8.6mm of rain, resetting the drying clock entirely — there have been no consecutive fully dry days since May 29.
Average humidity over the last 7 days is 76%, with today peaking at 94%, significantly slowing evaporation from the rock surface.
The open moorland setting with SW aspect and consistent winds (20–35 km/h) will accelerate drying once rain stops, but this advantage has not yet had time to take effect.
Temperatures of 14–17°C are adequate for drying but not exceptional; they cannot compensate for the continuous moisture input.
From June 12 onward, the forecast shows near-zero precipitation with dropping humidity (64–69%) and strong winds (up to 41 km/h), promising a genuine drying opportunity.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or tomorrow — the rock is saturated from sustained recent rainfall and needs a minimum of 2–3 fully dry days to recover.
- Target June 14 or 15 as the earliest realistic opportunity, but visually assess conditions on arrival by checking the ground at the base of each buttress for dampness.
- If visiting later this week, prioritise upper and overhanging sections of the more exposed buttresses, as these will dry first.
Do Not Climb
95%
8 days ago
Kyloe Out has received significant rainfall over the past 10 days (~47mm cumulative since June 1st, including heavy falls of 13.2mm and 10.5mm), with further rain today and more forecast tomorrow and the day after. The rock will be deeply saturated internally and there has been no meaningful drying window — climbing is clearly unsafe and risks permanent damage to this porous Fell Sandstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are relatively low-lying and, while exposed to wind, the individual buttress faces will have variable drying rates depending on their exact orientation and whether they catch the prevailing SW wind.
- The exposed, open-ground setting normally aids drying compared to the sheltered Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the sheer volume of recent rain (nearly 40mm in the June 1–4 window alone) means even this well-exposed crag will be saturated deep into the rock.
- Iron oxide deposits that form the small holds at Kyloe Out are particularly vulnerable to grain loosening when the sandstone is saturated — climbing now risks snapping off irreplaceable features.
- Access is permissive via agreement with the local farmer; damaging the rock by climbing wet would jeopardise both the routes and the ongoing access arrangement.
Warnings
3
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when saturated — hold breakage is a real risk to both climber safety and irreplaceable route features.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried; do not be misled by a dry-looking surface after only one dry day.
- Access is permissive — climbing on wet rock and damaging holds could jeopardise the access agreement with the landowner.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated to depth: 39.2mm fell between June 1–4, followed by only brief trace-dry spells with further light rain on June 6–9, giving no opportunity for meaningful drying.
Despite the SW aspect and exposed position, the persistent rain and elevated humidity (averaging 77% over the last week) have prevented any significant drying; cumulative wetting far outstrips any evaporation that occurred during the short dry gaps.
With the sandstone deeply saturated, compressive strength will be reduced by up to 30–50%, making hold breakage and grain loosening a serious risk — climbing now could cause permanent, irreversible damage to routes.
Early June temperatures (~13–15°C) are moderate and helpful for eventual drying, but the current unsettled pattern with frequent frontal rain is preventing any sustained drying window from developing.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 40mm fell between June 1–4 alone, with additional light rain on June 5–9 keeping the rock continuously wet.
There have been zero consecutive fully dry days since May 31, giving the porous sandstone no opportunity to begin drying internally.
Today (June 9) has seen ~3.8mm of further rain with more showers forecast, and 5.5mm is expected tomorrow, resetting any minimal surface drying.
Average humidity over the last 7 days is 77%, severely limiting evaporation rates even at this exposed crag.
The exposed, south-west-facing position will accelerate drying once a dry window eventually opens, but this advantage is currently overwhelmed by ongoing precipitation.
Temperatures of 13–19°C are adequate for drying but are neither warm enough nor sustained enough to overcome the current moisture load without dry weather.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out until at least 2–3 full dry days have elapsed after the last rain, which realistically means no earlier than June 14 at the earliest.
- Check the ground at the base of the buttresses before climbing — if the soil or sand is damp, the rock is still wet internally regardless of surface appearance.
- When conditions do improve, prioritise upper and overhanging sections of the buttresses first, as these will dry soonest; lower slabs and base sections will retain moisture longest.
Do Not Climb
92%
9 days ago
The rock is almost certainly saturated following a prolonged wet spell totalling ~35mm over the past week (including 13.2mm on June 2nd, 10.5mm on June 4th, and 3.1mm today), with further rain forecast tomorrow and the day after. Despite the exposed SW aspect and good wind, there has been no meaningful dry window for the rock to shed its internal moisture load.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Kyloe Out's isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are open to the wind on all sides, which aids surface drying significantly compared to Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the porous Fell Sandstone interior will still be holding substantial moisture after this week's cumulative rainfall.
- The SW aspect means afternoon sun reaches the main faces, but today's 100% cloud cover through the morning and heavy early-morning rain nullify any solar drying benefit for the time being.
- The scattered buttress layout means some faces will be sheltered from the prevailing SW wind — east-facing sides and recessed sections will dry markedly slower than exposed SW faces.
- Access is permissive via farmer agreement — parking at the road verge (NU 035 399) and respecting the farmland is essential to maintaining access, and climbing on wet sandstone risks damaging the very routes that justify continued access.
Warnings
2
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage.
- The rock surface may appear dry in afternoon sun and wind while the interior remains dangerously saturated; do not be deceived by surface conditions alone.
Reasoning
With 35.4mm of rain in the last 7 days — including significant events on June 1st (7.4mm), 2nd (13.2mm), 3rd (8.1mm), 4th (10.5mm), and today (3.1mm) — the Fell Sandstone is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold at which significant strength loss begins.
The only dry day in the past week was June 5th (with strong 30 km/h SW wind), but this single day was immediately followed by trace rain on the 6th and 7th and heavier rain today, meaning no cumulative drying has occurred; the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted before any meaningful internal drying could take place.
At likely saturation levels of 60%+ after this prolonged wet spell, compressive strength may be reduced by 30–50%, creating a serious risk of hold breakage on the small iron-oxide-cemented features that Fell Sandstone climbing depends on.
Early June temperatures (averaging ~13°C) and moderate humidity (~78%) provide only modest evaporative potential; while freeze-thaw is not a concern at this time of year, the cumulative wetting from a very wet late-May/early-June period means internal moisture will take several dry days to dissipate.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 35mm fell in the last 7 days across multiple events, with no consecutive dry period long enough for meaningful internal drying of porous Fell Sandstone.
3.1mm fell today (mostly early morning) and a further 2.5mm is forecast for tomorrow, continually resetting any drying progress.
The open hilltop position with 20–25 km/h SW winds and SW-facing rock provides above-average surface drying conditions when the rain stops.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week significantly slows evaporation from the rock surface and limits drying depth.
Temperatures averaging 13°C provide some evaporative energy but are below the summer optimum; not enough to compensate for the moisture load.
Repeated wetting events over 10+ days have driven moisture deep into the sandstone matrix, requiring 3+ consecutive dry days with good conditions to adequately dry.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or in the next two days — the rock is saturated from a prolonged wet spell and further rain is forecast through June 10th.
- Monitor conditions from June 11th onwards: if the forecast dry spell on June 11th and 13th holds with no further rain, the earliest realistic window for assessment would be June 13th or 14th.
- Before climbing, check that the ground at the base of the buttresses is sandy-dry, not just surface-dry — if the soil is damp, the rock interior will still be holding moisture.
Do Not Climb
92%
10 days ago
Kyloe Out has received nearly 40mm of rain over the past week (including 10.5mm on June 4th, the last significant fall just 3 days ago), and today still shows trace precipitation with high humidity. The porous Fell Sandstone will be saturated internally despite potentially appearing dry on the surface, and the forecast shows further rain arriving tomorrow and continuing through the coming days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are relatively small and exposed, which aids drying compared to Kyloe-in-the-Woods, but the cumulative 40mm over the past week will have deeply penetrated the porous sandstone.
- The SW aspect and exposed position are favourable for drying, but the recent run of high humidity days (80%+ on several days) has significantly slowed evaporation rates even with decent wind.
- Base sections of the buttresses and any north-facing returns will be holding moisture longer than the main SW-facing surfaces — the ground at the crag base is almost certainly still damp.
- Access is permissive via a farmer's agreement — climbing on visibly wet rock or damaging holds through wet climbing could jeopardise this fragile access arrangement.
Warnings
2
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — holds that feel solid when dry can snap off without warning, risking serious injury and permanent crag damage.
- The rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains dangerously saturated; do not be deceived by surface appearance after only a couple of dry days following this volume of rain.
Reasoning
With 39.7mm of rain in the past 7 days — including a heavy 13.2mm on June 2nd, 8.1mm on June 3rd, and 10.5mm on June 4th — the sandstone will be deeply saturated well beyond the surface, likely exceeding the critical 60% pore saturation threshold internally.
Only 2.5 truly dry days have elapsed since the last significant rain (June 4th), with today showing trace precipitation and humidity averaging 81% over the past week; even with the exposed SW aspect and moderate wind, this is far short of the 48–72+ hours of genuinely good drying conditions needed after heavy rain.
At current internal saturation levels, compressive strength is likely reduced by 30%+ and iron-oxide cemented holds are at serious risk of breakage — climbing now would risk both injury and permanent route damage.
Early June temperatures are moderate (13–16°C) which supports some drying, but the persistent high humidity and ongoing unsettled weather pattern are preventing effective moisture removal from the rock.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 40mm fell in the past 7 days across multiple events (culminating in 10.5mm on June 4th), deeply saturating the porous Fell Sandstone.
Only 2.5 days since the last significant rain, with trace precipitation on June 6th and today, well short of the 48–72+ hours of dry weather needed after heavy rain.
Average humidity over the past week has been 81%, severely limiting evaporation rates and slowing drying even with wind.
The open, exposed position with SW aspect and moderate-to-strong winds (20–30 km/h) provides above-average drying potential when conditions allow.
Rain is forecast every day from June 8th through June 11th (totalling ~17mm), meaning any drying progress will be repeatedly reversed.
Temperatures of 13–17°C are adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying of deeply saturated rock.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out today or in the coming days — the rock is almost certainly still saturated internally from nearly 40mm of rain this past week, and more rain is forecast.
- Wait for a window of at least 3 consecutive fully dry days with low humidity before visiting; the earliest realistic opportunity may be after June 13th if the forecast holds.
- On arrival after an adequate dry spell, check the ground at the base of the buttresses — if it is still damp rather than sandy-dry, the rock above is not ready to climb.
Do Not Climb
93%
11 days ago
Kyloe Out has received over 40mm of rain in the past week, including significant falls on June 1–4, with further light rain today and no consecutive dry days since. The porous Fell Sandstone will be thoroughly saturated internally despite the exposed aspect, and the forecast offers no meaningful drying window over the coming five days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The isolated buttresses (Saints Wall, Space Buttress, Central Wall) are relatively low-mass features that absorb water through multiple faces, meaning internal saturation is likely more complete than at a large continuous cliff.
- The SW-facing exposed aspect and moderate wind do aid surface drying, but with 41.7mm in the last 7 days and persistent humidity around 80%, evaporation cannot keep pace with the moisture already absorbed deep into the rock.
- Base sections of the buttresses, particularly where they meet soil and vegetation, will retain moisture longest — climbers should check the ground at the crag base as a proxy for internal moisture state.
- Access is by permissive agreement with the farmer; climbing on visibly wet or recently soaked sandstone risks both route damage and loss of access goodwill.
Warnings
2
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried; do not be deceived by surface appearance alone after this volume of rain.
Reasoning
With 41.7mm of rain over the past seven days — including 10.5mm as recently as June 4 and 1.2mm today — the rock is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical ~1% threshold at which significant strength loss begins.
Despite the favourable SW aspect and exposed position, only one dry day (June 5) has occurred since the heavy rain sequence, and today brought further precipitation; at 80% average humidity and ~14°C, drying rates are far too slow to have meaningfully reduced internal moisture.
At the current saturation level, Fell Sandstone could be experiencing 30–50% compressive strength loss, creating serious risk of hold breakage on the small iron-oxide-cemented features that characterise these routes.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled pattern with above-average humidity and below-average temperatures for the season is suppressing evaporation and keeping the rock in poor condition.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 41mm in the last 7 days across multiple events (June 1–4), with the most recent rain today, has thoroughly saturated the porous sandstone.
There have been no consecutive dry days since the heavy rain sequence began, meaning no meaningful drying period has started.
Average humidity of 80% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying from the rock surface.
The open, wind-exposed position and south-westerly aspect provide above-average drying potential when dry weather does arrive.
Winds of 19–45 km/h over recent days help move moist air from the rock surface, aiding drying when precipitation stops.
Rain is forecast on 4 of the next 5 days (totalling ~23mm), preventing any sustained drying window from developing.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Kyloe Out until at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with low humidity have passed after the last rainfall.
- Monitor conditions closely from around June 12 onwards, which is the first forecast dry day — but even then, check the ground at the base of the buttresses for dampness before touching the rock.
- Consider visiting non-porous alternatives such as whinstone crags in Northumberland if you need a climbing fix during this wet spell.
Climbing Outlook