Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
The rock at Shipley Glen is likely still holding internal moisture from the recent wet spell (11.1mm on Aug 20, plus smaller amounts on the 16th–19th and 21st), and today's rain (1.7mm forecast) resets any drying progress. With heavy rain forecast for the next four days (43+ mm), conditions will remain unsuitable for the foreseeable future.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting and north/NW aspect mean Shipley Glen receives virtually no direct sunlight, drastically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland grit venues.
- The glen's wooded, enclosed nature traps humid air — overnight humidity has been reaching 95–97%, effectively halting drying during the coolest hours.
- The 11.1mm deluge on Aug 20 followed a multi-day wet spell (Aug 16–19), meaning the rock was already saturated before the heaviest event — deep internal moisture is very likely still present.
- A prolonged wet forecast (43+ mm over Aug 27–30) will fully re-saturate the rock; realistic drying cannot begin until at least Aug 31 and will require several dry days beyond that.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain (43+ mm) is forecast Aug 27–30; do not plan any climbing at Shipley Glen this week.
- The rock surface may appear dry in sheltered spots but internal moisture from the recent wet spell makes holds unreliable — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
Reasoning
The rock has had only 4 fully dry days (Aug 22–25) since the heavy 11.1mm rain on Aug 20 and the preceding multi-day wet spell, which is insufficient for a sheltered, north-facing gritstone venue to dry internally.
Despite moderate westerly winds and summer temperatures around 19°C, the sheltered woodland position and north aspect severely limit effective drying, and overnight humidity near 95% likely causes condensation that partially reverses daytime evaporation.
With probable internal moisture remaining from the recent wet period and today's fresh rain, gritstone holds are at elevated risk of grain loosening and breakage — climbing now risks permanent damage to this valued bouldering venue.
Late August offers reasonable temperatures for drying but the current unsettled weather pattern with high humidity negates the seasonal advantage, and conditions are trending towards an extended wet spell.
Contributing Factors
6
11.1mm fell on Aug 20 atop an already-wet rock from the multi-day spell (Aug 16–19, ~5.9mm cumulative), deeply saturating the porous gritstone.
Only 4 dry days (Aug 22–25) have passed since the last significant rain, well short of the 48–72+ hours needed for heavily soaked, sheltered gritstone.
1.7mm of rain today (mostly late afternoon/evening) re-wets the surface and halts any remaining drying progress.
The wooded glen trapping humid air and the north/NW aspect receiving no direct sun make this one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in Yorkshire.
43+ mm of rain is forecast over Aug 27–30, ensuring the rock will be thoroughly re-saturated with no realistic drying window until at least Sept 1.
Average humidity over the last 7 days is 78% with overnight peaks near 97%, severely limiting net evaporation from the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or in the coming days — the rock is likely still damp internally and conditions will worsen significantly with the incoming heavy rain.
- Check back after Aug 31 and allow at least 2–3 full dry days with humidity below 75% before considering a visit.
- If desperate for gritstone in this period, consider a more exposed, south-facing venue that dries faster — but even those will struggle given the forecast.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
57 days ago
Three full dry days since the last significant rain (11.1mm on Aug 20), with warm temperatures and moderate humidity, suggest the rock is likely approaching climbable condition — but Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect mean drying has been slower than at exposed crags. A major storm system arriving from tomorrow (90mm+ forecast over 3 days) means today is the last viable window for some time; climbers should visually and tactilely check the rock before committing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's dense woodland canopy traps humidity and blocks airflow, significantly slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight even in summer, so drying relies entirely on ambient temperature and wind — both of which have been only moderate.
- The period Aug 16–21 saw cumulative rainfall of ~17.3mm including 11.1mm on Aug 20, meaning the rock was thoroughly soaked before the current 3-day dry spell began.
- A massive incoming weather system (90mm+ over Aug 26–28) will saturate the crag for an extended period; today is realistically the only climbing opportunity for at least a week.
Warnings
2
- Shipley Glen specialises in highball problems on small crimps — these are exactly the hold types most vulnerable to breakage on internally damp gritstone; exercise particular caution.
- The approaching storm system (80mm+ over 2 days) will thoroughly saturate the crag; expect at least 4–5 dry days minimum after the rain stops before conditions recover.
Reasoning
After 11.1mm of heavy rain on Aug 20 followed by only 0.3mm on Aug 21, the rock has had roughly 3 dry days (Aug 22–24), but at a sheltered, north-facing, wooded venue the interior of the rock may still hold residual moisture despite surface dryness.
Temperatures of 17–20°C with humidity around 70–77% and light-to-moderate winds (12–16 km/h) provide reasonable but not aggressive drying; the sheltered woodland setting reduces effective wind at the rock face, and the N/NW aspect means no direct solar heating to drive moisture out.
The cumulative ~17mm over five days (Aug 16–20) would have deeply penetrated the porous gritstone, and while three days of drying in summer is adequate for surface layers, deeper holds on highball problems may still carry internal moisture — breakage risk is moderate.
Mid-summer temperatures and day-length are favourable for drying, but the recent wet spell and upcoming prolonged rain mean this is a narrow weather window rather than a settled dry period.
Contributing Factors
7
11.1mm fell on Aug 20, deeply saturating the porous gritstone and requiring extended drying at this sheltered venue.
Aug 22–24 have been dry with reasonable temperatures (17–20°C), allowing surface and near-surface layers to dry.
The wooded glen traps humidity and blocks wind at the rock surface, substantially slowing evaporation compared to exposed gritstone edges.
Minimal direct sunlight even in August means drying relies on ambient conditions alone, adding significant time to the drying process.
Daytime highs of 18–20°C support reasonable evaporation rates despite the sheltered aspect.
Humidity drops to 51–57% during the afternoon today, the best drying conditions seen all week, aiding final surface drying.
Over 90mm of rain is forecast from Aug 26–28, which will completely re-saturate the crag and make it unclimbable for many days afterwards.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, carefully check the base of the boulders and lower sections for dampness — if the ground or rock base feels moist, the rock is still too wet internally and you should not climb.
- Focus on any upper, more exposed sections or problems with overhanging faces that drain and dry faster; avoid low slabs and recessed areas in the woodland.
- Be aware this is likely the last climbable window for a week or more — do not rush into climbing on marginal rock just because the forecast is dire; if conditions aren't right, wait.
Do Not Climb
45%
58 days ago
Despite two dry days since the last significant rain (11.1mm on Aug 20), the sheltered woodland setting, north/NW aspect, and elevated humidity (averaging 82% over the past week) mean Shipley Glen is unlikely to have fully dried internally. The preceding week saw repeated light rain and a heavy soaking on Aug 20, and this venue's characteristics demand extra caution.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, significantly slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun during any season, meaning drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both of which have been modest.
- The heavy 11.1mm event on Aug 20 came on top of several days of lighter rain (Aug 16–19 totalling ~5.9mm), meaning the rock was likely already saturated before the heaviest downpour.
- Base sections and recessed areas within the glen will be the last to dry — climbers should pay particular attention to seepage and damp patches low on the boulders.
Warnings
2
- The crimpy, small-hold style at Shipley Glen makes hold breakage on damp rock especially likely — permanent route damage is a real risk.
- Very heavy rain is forecast for Aug 27–28 (68mm total); any climbing window closes firmly by Aug 27 and conditions will be poor for days afterward.
Reasoning
The 11.1mm on Aug 20, preceded by cumulative light rain from Aug 16–19, will have thoroughly saturated the porous gritstone; only two full dry days have elapsed since, which is insufficient for a sheltered, north-facing woodland venue.
Temperatures have been cool (14–18°C), humidity has remained high (72–78%), and the sheltered setting limits wind exposure at the rock surface, meaning drying progress over the past two days has been slow and incomplete.
Internal moisture from the recent heavy and cumulative rain likely remains above the critical threshold for strength loss, posing a real risk of hold breakage on Shipley Glen's typically small, crimpy holds.
Late August conditions are reasonable for drying in principle, but the recent cool, humid spell has suppressed drying rates well below typical summer performance.
Contributing Factors
7
11.1mm fell on Aug 20 following 5.9mm across Aug 16–19, thoroughly saturating the rock.
Two days of drying is the bare minimum for exposed crags after light rain, and is insufficient for a sheltered north-facing venue after heavy rain.
The wooded glen traps moisture and blocks airflow, dramatically slowing evaporation from the rock surface.
The north-facing orientation means virtually no direct solar heating to drive evaporation.
Average humidity of 82% over the past week limits the evaporative potential of the air.
Temperatures around 16–18°C are adequate for some drying but not high enough to compensate for the other negative factors.
Four consecutive dry days are forecast before heavy rain arrives on Aug 27, offering a potential window if conditions improve.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least one more full dry day before visiting — by Aug 25 (three+ dry days) conditions should be more promising, but still assess on arrival.
- Check the base of the boulders and recessed areas for dampness before committing to climb; if the ground at boulder bases is moist, the rock is likely still wet internally.
- If you do visit later in the dry window (Aug 25–26), prioritise upper sections of boulders and any south-facing faces, which will have dried fastest.
Do Not Climb
30%
59 days ago
Shipley Glen has received significant recent rainfall — 11.1mm on August 20th followed by light rain on the 21st and today — with only minimal drying time in a sheltered, north-facing woodland setting. The combination of high humidity (83% average over the last week), low wind exposure, and lack of direct sun means the rock is very likely still holding internal moisture despite any surface drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air around the boulders, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- North/NW aspect means these boulders receive virtually no direct sun, removing the most powerful drying mechanism — drying relies entirely on ambient temperature and air movement.
- The 11.1mm heavy rain event on August 20th is the critical concern; at a sheltered north-facing venue, this requires a minimum of 72+ hours of good drying conditions, which have not yet occurred.
- Ground moisture in the wooded glen floor will sustain high local humidity around boulder bases even during nominally dry weather, prolonging internal rock moisture.
Warnings
2
- The small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's problems are especially vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone — a broken hold is permanent damage to an irreplaceable problem.
- Surface-dry rock does not mean safe rock; at this sheltered venue, internal moisture can persist for days after the surface appears climbable.
Reasoning
Heavy rain (11.1mm) fell just two days ago on August 20th, followed by trace precipitation on the 21st and today, meaning the rock has had essentially no meaningful dry period and is very likely saturated internally.
With a sheltered, north-facing woodland aspect, average humidity of 83%, temperatures around 14–17°C, and light winds (~14 km/h), drying conditions have been poor — far below what is needed to clear 11mm+ of soaking in just two days.
Gritstone at this moisture level is at serious risk of hold breakage and grain loosening, particularly on the small crimps and edges that characterise Shipley Glen's problems.
Late August provides reasonable ambient temperatures but the recent spell of cool, humid, unsettled weather has negated typical summer drying advantages.
Contributing Factors
6
11.1mm fell on August 20th, requiring at minimum 72+ hours of good drying conditions at a sheltered venue — only ~48 hours have passed in poor drying conditions.
The wooded glen traps moisture and limits air circulation, significantly extending drying times compared to exposed moorland crags.
Minimal direct sunlight removes the most effective drying mechanism, leaving the rock reliant on slow ambient evaporation.
Average humidity of 83% over the last seven days severely limits evaporative drying potential.
Light rain/drizzle on Aug 21st (0.3mm) and today (0.1mm) has interrupted any continuous drying window.
Temperatures of 14–17°C provide some drying capacity, though well below the 25°C+ spell seen earlier in the month.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until August 24th–25th before considering a visit, and only if no further rain falls and humidity drops below 70%.
- On arrival, check the ground at the base of boulders — if leaf litter or soil feels damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally.
- Consider visiting a more exposed or south-facing gritstone venue instead, where the same weather window will produce much faster drying.
Do Not Climb
88%
60 days ago
Shipley Glen has received 11.1mm of heavy rain yesterday (Aug 20) followed by further light rain today (0.8mm), with nearly 18mm in the last 7 days. Given the sheltered woodland setting, north/NW aspect, and high humidity, the rock will be thoroughly saturated internally and needs multiple dry days before climbing is appropriate.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying rates are significantly slower than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in summer, so solar drying is minimal — evaporative drying depends almost entirely on air movement which is limited here.
- The 11.1mm rain on Aug 20 followed a wet spell (Aug 16–19 totalling ~5.9mm), meaning the rock entered the heavy rain event already partially saturated, extending required drying time.
- Seepage and ground moisture in the wooded setting will keep base-level humidity high around the boulders even during nominally dry days.
Warnings
2
- Highball problems on small crimps carry elevated risk when gritstone is internally damp — holds may snap without warning even if the surface feels dry.
- The surface of sheltered woodland boulders can appear dry while internal saturation remains dangerously high; do not rely on visual or touch assessment alone until at least 48 hours of dry weather have passed.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally after 11.1mm on Aug 20 plus 0.8mm today, on top of a week of intermittent rain totalling nearly 18mm — the gritstone will have reached high pore saturation levels.
With zero consecutive dry days, a sheltered north-facing woodland setting, moderate temperatures (~15°C), and humidity around 77–87%, meaningful drying has not yet begun and will proceed very slowly even once rain stops.
At current saturation levels the gritstone could be experiencing 20–40% compressive strength loss, making crimp-intensive highball problems particularly dangerous due to hold breakage risk.
Summer temperatures help somewhat but the recent cool spell (14–18°C) and high humidity (82% average over 7 days) are well below optimal drying conditions for a sheltered venue.
Contributing Factors
7
11.1mm fell on Aug 20 with 0.8mm today, on top of ~6mm over Aug 16–19, thoroughly saturating the porous gritstone.
Rain fell today so the minimum 48–72 hour drying clock for heavy rain has not even started.
The wooded glen blocks airflow and traps moisture, dramatically slowing evaporative drying compared to exposed crags.
The north-facing orientation receives negligible direct sunlight even in August, removing solar drying as a factor.
Humidity has averaged 82% over the last week, severely limiting the vapour pressure gradient needed for evaporation.
Temperatures around 15°C today are adequate but not warm enough to drive rapid drying in a sheltered shaded setting.
Longer daylight hours and generally warmer ambient temperatures provide a modest baseline advantage over winter conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is wet from rain today and heavily saturated from 11.1mm yesterday; allow at minimum 48–72 hours of dry weather before considering a visit.
- Check conditions in person no earlier than Aug 24 — touch-test the rock at base level and inspect the ground for dampness before committing to climb.
- Consider nearby south-facing or exposed alternatives (e.g. Ilkley, Caley) which will dry significantly faster than Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting.
Do Not Climb
95%
61 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently soaking wet after 9.1mm of rain today on top of a prolonged damp spell (15.5mm in the last 7 days). The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means meaningful drying will not begin until well into the dry spell forecast from August 22nd, and even then conditions will need careful assessment.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind, significantly slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues — expect drying times at the upper end of guidelines.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces, removing the most effective drying mechanism and leaving the crag reliant on ambient temperature and air movement alone.
- The bouldering here is characterised by small crimps and edges on technical highball problems — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone, where grain loosening is catastrophic.
- Seepage and ground-level moisture in the wooded glen floor is a reliable indicator: if the leaf litter and soil at the base of boulders is damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent destruction of the small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's classic problems.
- Surface-dry appearance can be deeply misleading in a sheltered woodland setting — internal moisture persists long after the surface looks climbable.
Reasoning
The rock is thoroughly saturated after 9.1mm today plus 2.1mm yesterday and 2.3mm the day before, totalling over 13mm in three days — well above saturation thresholds for porous gritstone.
With a north-facing, sheltered woodland aspect, no direct sun, and humidity averaging 82% over the past week, meaningful drying will only begin once the forecast dry spell arrives on August 22nd, and even then 48–72+ hours of good drying conditions will be needed.
The small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's problems are at severe risk of grain loosening and breakage while the rock remains internally saturated — climbing now could permanently destroy holds.
Late summer temperatures (~15–19°C) are adequate for drying but humidity remains high and the recent pattern has been persistently unsettled, preventing the rock from ever fully drying out between showers.
Contributing Factors
7
9.1mm of rain fell today, mostly concentrated in the morning hours, thoroughly wetting the rock surface and driving moisture deep into the porous gritstone.
15.5mm over the past 7 days with no consecutive dry days means the rock has had no opportunity to dry out and is likely saturated well beyond the surface.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically reducing evaporation rates compared to exposed moorland crags.
N/NW orientation receives virtually no direct sunlight, removing the most powerful drying mechanism for rock surfaces.
Average humidity of 82% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, and today's humidity peaked at 97%.
Two consecutive dry days are forecast on August 22–23 with dropping humidity (67–70%), which will begin the drying process.
Temperatures of 15–19°C are warm enough to support reasonable evaporation rates once the rain stops and humidity drops.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or for at least the next 2–3 days; the rock is thoroughly saturated and needs an extended dry spell to recover.
- Before visiting after August 23rd, check the ground conditions at the base of the boulders — if the woodland floor and leaf litter are still damp, the rock will be too.
- Consider relocating to a south-facing, exposed, non-porous venue (e.g. limestone or whinstone) if you need to climb this week.
Do Not Climb
90%
62 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Rain fell this morning and over the past three days (cumulative ~6.2mm from Aug 16–19), with a significant 13mm event forecast for tomorrow, meaning conditions will not improve for several days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps moisture and drastically slows drying compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues — expect at least an extra day of drying beyond normal guidelines.
- The north/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature, both of which are modest at present.
- The bouldering here is characterised by small crimps and edges on highball problems — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone, and falls from height add a serious safety dimension.
- The base of the glen and lower sections of boulders will retain moisture longest due to drainage pooling in the wooded valley floor — check the ground around the base of boulders as a moisture indicator.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on wet gritstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds — small crimps and edges at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable.
- Tomorrow's forecast 13mm rain event will fully saturate the rock; do not assume a dry afternoon today means conditions are acceptable.
- Highball problems on weakened, damp holds present a serious fall risk in addition to crag damage.
Reasoning
Rain has fallen on each of the last four days (Aug 16–19, totalling ~6.2mm), and the rock is certainly wet both on the surface and internally given the sheltered, shaded setting and high humidity (82–93%).
With north-facing aspect, sheltered woodland position, and humidity averaging 77–93% over recent days, there has been negligible effective drying; the brief afternoon clearing today (12:00–19:00) is far too short to make any meaningful difference.
Gritstone holds — especially the small crimps Shipley Glen is known for — are at significant risk of breakage given the rock has been repeatedly wetted over four consecutive days with no adequate drying period.
Mid-August should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled spell with temperatures only 16–18°C and persistent cloud cover is limiting evaporation well below summer norms.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 2mm of precipitation has fallen or is forecast today, with intermittent showers through the morning keeping the rock wet.
13mm of rain is forecast for August 20th, which will fully re-saturate the rock and reset any drying progress.
Rain on four consecutive days (Aug 16–19) means the rock has had no opportunity to begin meaningful drying.
The enclosed, wooded glen blocks airflow and traps humid air, significantly slowing evaporation from the rock surface.
The N/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun, removing the most powerful drying mechanism.
Humidity has been 75–93% for most of the past week, severely limiting the rate of evaporation from the rock.
Temperatures of 16–18°C provide some evaporative potential but are insufficient to overcome the high humidity and lack of sun.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or for the next several days — the rock is wet and tomorrow's heavy rain will reset any drying.
- After the rain clears on August 21st, allow a minimum of 48–72 hours of dry weather before visiting; realistically August 24th at the earliest deserves an in-person assessment.
- When you do visit, check the ground at the base of boulders — if the soil and leaf litter are damp, the rock above is certainly still holding moisture internally.
Do Not Climb
93%
63 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today has seen 5.1mm of rain with more falling this evening, following several days of light but repeated precipitation; the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will hold this moisture for days. Further rain forecast tomorrow (2mm) and a heavy 9.5mm on the 20th will reset any drying progress.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying times are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone edges.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in summer, so drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and any wind that penetrates the glen — both currently poor.
- The crimpy, technical nature of the problems here means holds are small and subject to high point-loading; even minor internal moisture dramatically increases the risk of hold breakage on these features.
- Repeated light rain events over the past two weeks (Aug 5–6, 10, 16–18) have kept the rock in a near-constantly replenished moisture state, preventing full internal drying even during the brief warm spell on Aug 11–14.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet gritstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds — small crimps at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has fully dried; do not rely on surface appearance alone at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated or near-saturated internally, having received 5.1mm today on top of repeated light precipitation on Aug 16 (0.6mm) and Aug 17 (1.3mm), with no meaningful dry interval to allow the porous gritstone to shed moisture.
Despite moderate westerly winds today (32 km/h), the sheltered glen position greatly reduces effective wind speed at the rock face, and with humidity at 87% and 100% cloud cover, net evaporation is negligible; the north-facing aspect receives no direct sun to assist drying.
Gritstone strength loss begins at just ~1% saturation, and with the rock likely well above this threshold from cumulative recent rain, small crimps and edges are at significant risk of breakage under climbing loads.
Although it is mid-summer with reasonable ambient temperatures (~17°C), the current unsettled weather pattern with repeated frontal rain and high humidity negates the seasonal advantage that summer normally provides for drying.
Contributing Factors
7
5.1mm recorded today with further showers forecast this evening (1.3mm at 19:00, 1.4mm at 23:00), keeping the rock surface wet and replenishing internal moisture.
Light but frequent rain on Aug 5, 6, 10, 16, 17, and 18 has prevented the rock from ever fully drying internally over the past two weeks.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air against the rock, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland edges.
North-facing rock receives virtually no direct solar radiation even in August, removing one of the primary drying mechanisms.
Today's average humidity of 87% (peaking at 98%) severely limits the rate of evaporative drying from the rock surface.
2mm forecast tomorrow and 9.5mm on Aug 20 will reset any drying progress, extending the period of unsuitable conditions.
Temperatures around 15–17°C are adequate for some evaporation but not high enough to compensate for the poor drying conditions at this sheltered site.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or in the next few days; the rock is wet and more rain is incoming.
- The earliest realistic window for dry conditions is Aug 22–23 after two consecutive dry days, but visually assess the rock and base-of-crag ground moisture before committing.
- If you need to climb this week, consider an exposed, south-facing limestone or whinstone venue instead, which will dry far faster than this sheltered gritstone glen.
Do Not Climb
90%
64 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Rain fell overnight (1.6mm today so far), humidity is extremely high (89–97%), and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting has had virtually no drying opportunity. Further rain is forecast through the coming days, with no meaningful dry window until August 22 at the earliest.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open moorland grit venues — expect drying times at least 50% longer than exposed crags.
- The north/NW aspect means the rock receives almost no direct sunlight even in midsummer, so solar drying is negligible and the crag relies entirely on ambient temperature and wind for moisture removal.
- The glen's boulders sit at ground level among vegetation, which retains moisture and raises local humidity around the rock surfaces, further prolonging damp conditions.
- The crimpy, small-hold style that defines Shipley Glen makes it especially vulnerable to hold breakage on damp gritstone — the high-force, small-contact climbing magnifies the risk of grain loosening.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on damp gritstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry while remaining saturated internally; do not be deceived by surface appearance alone in this sheltered setting.
Reasoning
Rain fell today (1.6mm) on top of 1.7mm yesterday, and the rock has been subjected to intermittent light showers over recent days (2.5mm on Aug 5, 1.1mm on Aug 6, 0.2mm on Aug 10, 1.7mm on Aug 16), with humidity consistently above 75% in a sheltered woodland — the gritstone is certainly holding internal moisture.
With a north-facing, sheltered aspect, near-zero wind in the glen today (1–7 km/h), 100% cloud cover, and humidity between 83–97%, there is essentially no effective drying taking place; conditions are closer to maintaining saturation than promoting evaporation.
The combination of repeated wetting events and minimal drying means pore saturation is likely well above the threshold where significant compressive strength loss occurs, posing a real risk of hold breakage on the small crimps that characterise this venue.
Although it is midsummer, the current spell of cool, humid, overcast weather with frequent showers mimics autumn conditions, and the sheltered glen microclimate exacerbates this — normal summer drying advantages are largely absent.
Contributing Factors
5
Rain today (1.6mm) follows 1.7mm yesterday, with further intermittent showers over the past week, keeping the rock repeatedly wetted with zero consecutive fully dry days.
Humidity has been 89–97% through much of today with 100% cloud cover, effectively halting evaporative drying in the sheltered woodland microclimate.
The N/NW aspect and wooded glen setting receive negligible direct sunlight and minimal wind penetration, making this one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in Yorkshire.
Heavy rain is forecast for Aug 18 (5.7mm) and Aug 20 (5.4mm), with further light rain on Aug 19 and 21, meaning no sustained drying window exists until Aug 22 at the earliest.
Temperatures around 17–19°C provide some baseline evaporative potential, but this is largely negated by the high humidity, cloud cover, and lack of wind in the glen.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Shipley Glen until at least August 23, after the forecast rain clears and at least one full dry day has passed.
- Check the ground at the base of the boulders on arrival — if soil and leaf litter are damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue if you need to climb this week, as sheltered Shipley Glen will be among the last crags to dry out.
Do Not Climb
45%
65 days ago
Today has seen 0.8mm of rain, breaking a 5-day dry spell, and the forecast shows continued light-to-moderate precipitation through August 20th. With Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting and north/NW aspect, the rock will struggle to dry adequately between these frequent light showers, making conditions unreliable for the coming days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning even light showers of 0.5–1mm can keep the rock damp far longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues.
- North/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight even in mid-summer, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both of which are modest here.
- The bouldering style at Shipley Glen is heavily dependent on small crimps and edges, which are precisely the hold types most vulnerable to grain loosening and breakage when the rock retains internal moisture.
- Seepage from the wooded slopes above can feed moisture to the rock from behind, meaning even surface-dry boulders may be internally damp after periods of intermittent rain.
Warnings
2
- Multiple days of intermittent rain are forecast through August 20th — do not assume brief dry spells between showers are sufficient for this sheltered venue.
- Shipley Glen's signature small crimps and edges are especially vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone; damage to these holds would be irreversible.
Reasoning
Today's 0.8mm of rain on top of scattered trace amounts over recent days (0.2mm on Aug 10, plus today) means the rock surface is currently wet, and the sheltered woodland setting will slow evaporation significantly.
Prior to today there was a strong 5-day dry spell (Aug 11–15) with warm temperatures peaking at 33°C, which would have dried the rock well, but today's rain has re-wetted the surface and the forecast shows further rain tomorrow (0.7mm) and heavier rain on Aug 18 (3.1mm), preventing any meaningful drying window.
The repeated wetting-drying cycle through intermittent light showers keeps the near-surface rock in a weakened state, increasing the risk of grain loosening on the small crimps that define Shipley Glen's climbing.
Mid-August temperatures are adequate for drying (17–22°C range), but humidity levels of 75–81% over the coming days significantly reduce evaporation rates, especially in a sheltered north-facing woodland.
Contributing Factors
6
0.8mm today followed by 0.7mm tomorrow and 3.1mm on Aug 18 means no sustained drying window is available for at least several days.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone.
Minimal direct sunlight even in summer means solar drying is negligible and the rock relies on wind and ambient warmth alone.
The 5-day dry spell from Aug 11–15 with temperatures up to 33°C will have thoroughly dried deeper rock layers, limiting how deeply today's light rain penetrates.
Temperatures in the high teens to low twenties provide reasonable evaporative potential when rain pauses.
Humidity of 77–81% over the next few days significantly slows evaporation, especially in a sheltered setting.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until at least August 21st, when the forecast shows the first fully dry day with lower humidity (66%) — even then, assess conditions carefully on arrival given the sheltered setting.
- If visiting, check the ground at the base of the boulders: if the soil, leaf litter, or moss is still damp, the rock almost certainly retains internal moisture.
- Focus any impatient sessions on any south-facing or overhanging problems that may shed water faster, but avoid the small crimps and delicate edges that define most of the glen's climbing.
Climbing Outlook