Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Shipley Glen has had four consecutive dry days following only trace precipitation (0.2mm in the last week), with warm temperatures peaking at 30–33°C on Aug 12–13 and low humidity around 50–62%. Despite the sheltered, north-facing aspect, the extended dry spell and summer warmth should have thoroughly dried the gritstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humidity and blocks airflow, so even in summer, sheltered alcoves and lower boulders near the ground can retain dampness longer than the weather data alone suggests.
- North/NW aspect means the rock receives virtually no direct sun — drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and wind, making the recent hot spell (30–33°C) particularly valuable.
- The last meaningful rain was 2.5mm on Aug 5, nine days ago, with only trace amounts since — this is an exceptionally good drying window for this venue.
- Significant rain is forecast from Aug 17–18 (up to ~9.4mm combined), so the current dry window is closing within a few days.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 2.5mm on August 5 (nine days ago), followed by only trace amounts (0.1–0.2mm), and the rock has benefited from a sustained warm, relatively dry spell including two days above 30°C — internal moisture should be fully dissipated.
Despite the sheltered, north-facing aspect that slows drying, nine days of dry weather with temperatures consistently above 19°C and moderate westerly winds provide more than adequate drying time even for this venue.
With the extended dry period and summer warmth, the gritstone should be at full strength with no meaningful risk of hold breakage or grain loosening.
Mid-August is one of the best times of year for gritstone conditions, with long days, warm temperatures, and the recent heatwave providing exceptional drying — this is as good as it gets for a north-facing sheltered venue.
Contributing Factors
6
Four consecutive fully dry days and nine days since any meaningful rainfall (2.5mm on Aug 5), with only trace amounts in between, providing ample drying time.
Temperatures reached 30–33°C on Aug 12–13 with humidity dropping to 50%, driving rapid evaporation even in a sheltered, shaded setting.
The wooded glen limits airflow and direct sun, meaning drying is slower than at exposed moorland gritstone venues, though the extended dry period compensates.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun year-round, relying on ambient warmth and wind for drying, but summer temperatures have been sufficient.
Average humidity over the last seven days is 64% with a low of 50%, supporting effective evaporation from porous gritstone.
Consistent westerly winds of 14–24 km/h have aided drying, though the sheltered position reduces their effectiveness at rock level.
Recommendations
3
- Conditions are excellent now but rain is forecast from August 17, so prioritise climbing over the next two days (Aug 15–16) for the best window.
- Check the base of boulders and any north-facing recesses for residual dampness on arrival — sheltered woodland corners can trap moisture even after long dry spells.
- Bring a soft boar's-hair brush and minimise chalk use to preserve the fine-grained gritstone texture on these technical crimp problems.
Previous Analyses
Likely Safe to Climb
88%
2 days ago
Shipley Glen has had three full dry days following only trace precipitation (0.2mm on Aug 10), with today hitting 34°C and very low humidity — conditions are genuinely dry. The last meaningful rain was 2.5mm on Aug 5, over a week ago, giving ample drying time even for this sheltered, north-facing woodland venue.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and blocks direct sun, meaning Shipley Glen dries significantly slower than exposed moorland grit — but a week-plus of largely dry weather with warm temperatures has overcome this.
- The north/NW aspect means the current heatwave's direct sun won't hit most faces, but radiant heat and the extremely low humidity (down to 23% today) will still draw moisture out effectively.
- Seepage can persist in the lower sections and recessed areas of the glen after rain; check the base of boulders and shaded alcoves for residual dampness before committing to problems.
- Heavy rain (21.9mm) is forecast for Aug 17 — conditions will deteriorate sharply and the sheltered setting means a prolonged drying period will be needed afterwards.
Warnings
1
- Heavy rain (21.9mm) is forecast for August 17 — do not climb on wet gritstone; allow several days of drying afterwards given the sheltered woodland setting.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 2.5mm on Aug 5 (8 days ago), followed by only trace amounts (0.1–0.2mm); warm summer temperatures averaging 18–25°C and dropping humidity have thoroughly dried the rock.
Despite the sheltered, north-facing aspect slowing drying, eight days of essentially dry weather with temperatures frequently above 20°C and humidity falling to the low 60s (and 48% today) provide more than adequate drying even for this venue.
Internal moisture levels should be negligible after this extended dry spell; structural risk from weakened holds is very low.
Mid-summer conditions are optimal — long days, warm temperatures, and no freeze-thaw risk; today's exceptional heat (34°C) and low humidity accelerate final drying.
Contributing Factors
6
Eight days since meaningful rain (2.5mm on Aug 5), with only trace amounts since, far exceeding the 48-hour minimum for light rain.
Today's 34°C peak and humidity as low as 23% create powerful evaporative drying conditions, even in a sheltered setting.
The wooded glen traps moisture and limits airflow, meaning drying is slower than exposed gritstone edges — though the extended dry period compensates.
Minimal direct sun on the rock faces means drying relies more on ambient temperature and air movement than solar radiation.
Mid-August offers the longest days and warmest baseline temperatures, providing optimal background drying conditions.
Only 0.3mm in the last 7 days means the rock was never heavily saturated, requiring less drying time.
Recommendations
3
- Conditions are good for climbing today and through to Aug 16 — make the most of the dry window before heavy rain arrives on Aug 17.
- Despite the overall dry assessment, check the base of boulders and deeply recessed areas in the glen for any lingering seepage before pulling on.
- Avoid climbing on or after Aug 17 (21.9mm forecast) and allow at least 48–72 hours of dry weather afterwards given the sheltered setting.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
75%
3 days ago
The last meaningful rain was 2.5mm on August 5th (7 days ago), followed by scattered trace amounts and a minor 1.1mm event on the 6th. With two fully dry days, warm temperatures today hitting 30°C, and low humidity in the 30s this afternoon, conditions are likely dry — but the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting warrants a visual check on arrival, especially at the base of boulders.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning even light showers can take longer to dry than at exposed moorland venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect means direct sun rarely reaches the rock face — drying relies heavily on ambient warmth and air movement rather than solar radiation.
- Base sections of taller highball problems will retain moisture longest due to downward drainage and proximity to damp woodland floor — check these areas carefully.
- The scattered trace precipitation events (0.1–0.4mm) on July 31, August 1–4 and August 10 individually were trivial but cumulatively kept surface moisture topped up in sheltered spots until the recent dry spell.
Warnings
1
- Despite today's heat, sheltered recesses and lower sections may still hold residual dampness — do not assume all problems are dry without checking.
Reasoning
The last significant rain (2.5mm on Aug 5, 1.1mm on Aug 6) was 6–7 days ago, with only a trace 0.2mm on Aug 10; internal moisture from those events should be largely dissipated given summer temperatures, though the sheltered woodland setting may have slowed full drying.
Two consecutive fully dry days with today's exceptional warmth (30°C) and very low humidity (28–54%) provide strong drying conditions, but the sheltered, north-facing aspect means wind and sun have limited direct effect on the rock surfaces.
Structural risk is low — the rock has had nearly a week since the last meaningful wetting event, and summer temperatures have kept conditions well above the threshold for effective drying even in sheltered settings.
Mid-August provides near-optimal drying conditions with long days, warm temperatures, and today's heatwave-level warmth is highly favourable for driving out residual moisture.
Contributing Factors
6
The last meaningful precipitation (2.5mm) fell 7 days ago on August 5th, well beyond the 48-hour minimum guideline even for sheltered venues.
The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind, significantly slowing evaporation compared to exposed gritstone edges.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, removing one of the most effective drying mechanisms.
Temperatures reaching 30°C with humidity dropping to 28% this afternoon create powerful ambient drying conditions that partially compensate for lack of direct sun.
A trace 0.2mm event two days ago is negligible for exposed rock but could have refreshed surface moisture in sheltered recesses.
Mid-August provides long days, warm overnight temperatures (min 6.7–16°C recently), and generally favourable drying conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Visit this afternoon when temperatures peak and humidity is at its lowest (28–33%) — ideal for both rock conditions and friction.
- Check the base of boulders and any north-facing recesses for residual dampness before committing to climb; if the ground at the base is moist, exercise caution.
- Carry a soft boar's-hair brush only, and be prepared to walk away from any problem where the rock feels even slightly cool and damp to the touch.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
5 days ago
The last meaningful rain was 3.6mm on August 5–6, giving roughly 3–4 full dry days, but the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect at Shipley Glen slow drying considerably. Conditions are likely dry on most faces by this afternoon, but a visual check on arrival is warranted given the site's tendency to hold moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks wind, meaning drying times are significantly longer than exposed moorland gritstone venues like Almscliff or Ilkley.
- The north/NW aspect receives very little direct sun even in midsummer, so evaporation relies primarily on ambient warmth and air movement rather than solar heating.
- The crimpy, small-hold style that defines Shipley Glen means holds are particularly vulnerable to breakage if residual internal moisture has weakened the rock — extra caution is justified.
- Base-of-boulder areas and north-facing recesses in the glen may still harbour dampness from the Aug 5–6 rain and the trace amounts on Aug 7; check the ground at the base of boulders as a proxy for rock moisture.
Warnings
1
- The woodland floor can appear dry while gritstone boulders retain internal moisture — do not rely solely on surface appearance when assessing conditions.
Reasoning
Total precipitation of ~3.6mm fell on Aug 5–6 with a trace (0.1mm) on Aug 7, followed by three full dry days; the rock surface should be dry but internal moisture may linger in the most sheltered boulders given the woodland microclimate.
Three dry days with temperatures around 19–25°C and moderate humidity (62–70%) provide reasonable but not rapid drying; however, the sheltered, shaded position significantly reduces effective evaporation compared to an exposed crag.
The cumulative rain was light (~3.6mm) so deep saturation is unlikely, but small crimps on gritstone are inherently fragile and any residual internal moisture poses a hold-breakage risk.
Mid-summer conditions are broadly favourable with long days and warm temperatures aiding drying, though this is somewhat offset by Shipley Glen's sheltered, shaded microclimate.
Contributing Factors
7
Only ~3.6mm fell over Aug 5–6, well below the heavy-rain threshold, limiting depth of water penetration.
Three full dry days since the last trace rain (Aug 7), with today adding a fourth dry day, meets the two-day minimum guideline for light rain.
The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind, substantially slowing evaporation compared to exposed gritstone edges.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in August, removing the most effective drying mechanism.
Temperatures of 19–25°C over the drying period provide reasonable ambient warmth to drive evaporation.
Average humidity around 68–73% is neither ideal nor problematic — adequate evaporation is possible but not rapid.
Humidity drops to 42–45% this afternoon with clearing skies, providing the best drying window of recent days.
Recommendations
3
- Visit in the afternoon when humidity is lowest (42–45%) and check the ground at boulder bases — if the soil or leaf litter is damp, the rock likely still holds internal moisture.
- Prioritise upper sections and any south-facing or overhanging faces which will have dried fastest; avoid low-level slabs and north-facing recesses.
- If any holds feel cool to the touch or show colour variation suggesting dampness, move on to another problem or wait — the crimpy style here makes hold integrity critical.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
5 days ago
The last meaningful rain was 2.5mm on August 5th and 1.1mm on August 6th, with only a trace (0.1mm) on August 7th. Two full dry days with moderate temperatures and reasonable humidity have followed, but Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect mean drying will have been slower than at exposed venues — a visual check on arrival is advisable before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting significantly restricts airflow at rock level, meaning the moderate westerly winds recorded at weather stations may not translate to effective drying at the crag itself.
- North/NW aspect means even in August the rock receives very little direct sunlight, relying almost entirely on ambient warmth and air movement to dry.
- Lower sections of boulders and any north-facing recesses or scoops will be the last areas to dry — test these before climbing exposed highball problems.
- The cumulative light rainfall pattern (several small events over the past two weeks rather than one heavy downpour) can keep the rock in a persistently semi-damp state in sheltered settings.
Warnings
1
- Surface-dry gritstone can still be significantly weakened internally — if in doubt, do not pull on small crimps and edges, which are this venue's signature style and particularly vulnerable to breakage.
Reasoning
The rock received 2.5mm on Aug 5 and 1.1mm on Aug 6, with traces on Aug 7, and has had roughly 2 full dry days since — in a sheltered, shaded woodland this is borderline sufficient for surface drying but internal moisture may linger.
Temperatures around 19–25°C and moderate winds are helpful, but the sheltered glen position and north-facing aspect severely limit effective drying, meaning the ~48 hours of dry weather may not have fully dried the porous gritstone internally.
With only light rain totals and summer temperatures well above freezing, structural risk from freeze-thaw is nil, but the gritstone could still be weakened if residual moisture remains in the interior from the recent cluster of wet days.
Mid-summer conditions are broadly favourable for drying, though the cooler-than-average temperatures (16–20°C range recently) and humidity averaging 73% over the past week are less effective than a warm, dry summer spell.
Contributing Factors
7
2.5mm on Aug 5 and 1.1mm on Aug 6, plus traces on several surrounding days, will have wetted the porous gritstone surface and possibly penetrated internally.
Aug 8 and Aug 9 have been dry with moderate temperatures (21–25°C), providing a reasonable but not generous drying window.
The wooded glen traps moisture and blocks wind at crag level, significantly slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
Minimal direct sun even in August means drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and air movement, both of which are limited here.
Temperatures consistently above 15°C support reasonable evaporation rates, preventing the very slow drying seen in colder months.
Humidity averaging 68–73% is neither ideal nor prohibitive for drying — it slows the process somewhat but does not prevent it.
No rain is forecast for the next 5+ days, with warming temperatures and dropping humidity, meaning conditions will steadily improve.
Recommendations
3
- Visit later in the day when any residual overnight dampness has had maximum time to evaporate, and physically touch the rock and check the base of boulders before climbing.
- Prioritise upper faces and any south-facing or overhanging sections, which will have dried fastest; avoid low scoops, cracks, and north-facing recesses.
- If any holds feel cool to the touch or the ground at the base of the boulders is damp, err on the side of waiting — conditions should be excellent by Aug 11–12.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
6 days ago
Recent light rain on Aug 5–7 (totalling ~3.7mm) followed by only one full dry day means Shipley Glen's sheltered, north-facing rock may not yet be fully dry internally, despite today's warm and relatively low-humidity conditions. A visual and tactile check on arrival is essential before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks airflow, significantly slowing evaporation even in summer — drying takes noticeably longer here than at open moorland gritstone venues.
- North/NW aspect means the rock receives virtually no direct sunlight, so solar-driven drying is minimal and moisture must be removed primarily by ambient temperature and wind.
- Seepage can persist at the base of taller blocks and in recessed corners of the glen where drainage collects; these areas should be checked carefully even when upper faces feel dry.
- The westerly wind over recent days would have some benefit given the NW aspect, but the sheltered woodland buffers much of this effect.
Warnings
2
- Do not assume the rock is dry based on surface appearance alone — gritstone can feel dry on the surface while retaining damaging internal moisture, especially in sheltered woodland settings.
- Trace precipitation forecast for Aug 9 (0.4mm) and Aug 10 (0.1mm) may further delay full drying.
Reasoning
Light but repeated precipitation on Aug 5 (2.5mm), Aug 6 (1.1mm), and trace amounts on Aug 7 has kept the rock periodically wetted, with only one genuinely dry day (today) since the last significant rain.
Today's warm conditions (24.7°C, 61% humidity, moderate westerly wind) provide decent drying, but the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect severely limit how much moisture can be driven off in a single day.
Cumulative rainfall was modest (~3.7mm over three days) so deep saturation is unlikely, but surface and near-surface moisture in this porous gritstone still poses a hold-breakage risk if the rock hasn't fully dried.
Mid-summer temperatures and longer daylight hours are favourable for drying, though the below-average temps of the last week (16–17°C) have slowed the process compared to a typical August warm spell.
Contributing Factors
6
Rain on Aug 5 (2.5mm), Aug 6 (1.1mm), and trace on Aug 7 means the rock has been repeatedly wetted with only one dry day since.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed gritstone edges.
Minimal direct sun means almost no solar heating of the rock surface to drive off moisture.
Today's 24.7°C maximum and 61% humidity provide the best drying conditions seen in a week.
Westerly wind at 18.4 km/h would help some air circulation at the NW-facing rock, though the sheltered setting limits its effect.
Mid-summer ambient warmth aids background drying even without direct sun, and there is no freeze-thaw risk.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until at least Aug 10 afternoon or ideally Aug 11–12 for best conditions, when forecast warm, dry, lower-humidity weather should have allowed thorough drying.
- If visiting today or tomorrow, perform a careful tactile check of holds and inspect the ground at the base of boulders — if soil or leaf litter is damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally.
- Focus on any overhanging or more exposed faces first, as these will have dried fastest; avoid low-lying slabs and recessed corners where moisture collects.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
65%
7 days ago
Recent light rain on August 5th (2.5mm) and 6th (1.1mm) followed by only one full dry day means the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting at Shipley Glen may still harbour residual moisture. Conditions are improving with today's dry weather and lower humidity, but a visual check on arrival is essential before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and limits airflow at rock level, meaning drying takes significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues even in summer.
- North/NW aspect means minimal direct sunlight reaches the rock faces, removing one of the most effective drying mechanisms and leaving wind and ambient temperature as the primary drivers.
- Seepage and moss are common in the glen's shaded recesses — lower sections and north-facing walls closest to tree cover will be the last to dry.
- The recent wet spell (scattered light rain from July 25th through August 6th totalling ~10mm) has kept background moisture levels elevated despite no single heavy downpour.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — one dry day after repeated wetting in a sheltered, north-facing woodland is insufficient drying time for gritstone.
- Surface-dry gritstone can still be dangerously weakened internally; the crimpy, technical nature of Shipley Glen problems makes hold integrity critical.
Reasoning
Light rain on Aug 5th (2.5mm) and Aug 6th (1.1mm) on top of several days of trace precipitation means the rock has likely absorbed modest but repeated moisture inputs over the past week.
Only one full dry day (today, Aug 7th) has elapsed since the last meaningful rain, with moderate westerly wind (~20 km/h) and humidity dropping to 69% — helpful but insufficient for confident drying in a sheltered, north-facing, wooded setting.
The cumulative rainfall was light (~5mm in 7 days) so deep saturation is unlikely, but repeated wetting events can maintain elevated internal moisture, posing some risk of grain loosening on crimpy holds.
Mid-summer temperatures (17–19°C) and reasonable day length support drying, but the below-average temperatures of the past week and elevated humidity (73% average) have slowed the process.
Contributing Factors
7
Rain on Aug 5th (2.5mm) and Aug 6th (1.1mm), with additional trace amounts on preceding days, has kept the rock periodically wetted over the past week.
The wooded glen setting traps moisture and limits airflow at rock level, significantly slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland crags.
North-facing orientation means almost no direct solar heating of the rock, removing the single most effective drying mechanism.
A single dry day is below the minimum 24–48 hour guideline even for light rain in good conditions, and conditions here are far from ideal for drying.
Tomorrow and the following days show dry weather, lower humidity (62%), and warmer temperatures (up to 25°C), which will progressively improve conditions.
Westerly wind at ~20 km/h provides some airflow to aid surface drying, though penetration into the sheltered glen will be limited.
The total recent rainfall was modest (~5mm in 7 days), so deep saturation is unlikely and drying will be faster than after a heavy soaking.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until tomorrow (Aug 8th) at the earliest, when two full dry days, warmer temperatures (25°C), and lower humidity (62%) will have improved conditions significantly — but still check rock surfaces carefully on arrival.
- Test conditions by feeling the rock at the base of the crag and in shaded recesses; if any dampness is detected, do not climb and return another day.
- Prioritise any south-facing or more exposed boulders first, and avoid deeply shaded walls or areas near moss and seepage lines which will dry last.
Do Not Climb
55%
9 days ago
Shipley Glen has received repeated light rain over the past 10 days (including 2.4mm yesterday and 0.7mm today), and its sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means drying has been severely hampered. Despite individually small amounts, the cumulative moisture load combined with high humidity and lack of direct sun means the rock is very likely still damp internally — we recommend not climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning even moderate breezes recorded at nearby weather stations may not reach the rock surfaces effectively.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in summer, so drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and air movement rather than solar heating.
- Shipley Glen specialises in technical crimpy problems on small edges — exactly the hold type most vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone, making the consequences of climbing on insufficiently dried rock especially severe.
- Seepage from the wooded slopes above can feed moisture to the rock beyond what direct rainfall alone would suggest, particularly after a prolonged unsettled spell like the last 10 days.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on small crimps or edges today — the cumulative moisture from repeated rain makes hold breakage a real risk on Shipley Glen's characteristic fine features.
- Surface rock may appear dry while interior remains damp; visual dryness alone is not sufficient confirmation at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
The rock has received rain on at least 6 of the last 12 days (totalling ~8mm including today's 0.7mm), with no period longer than 3 consecutive fully dry days, meaning internal moisture levels are likely elevated despite individually light totals.
The north-facing, sheltered woodland setting receives no meaningful direct sun and limited wind penetration; combined with average humidity around 73-77% over the past week, effective drying has been minimal and certainly insufficient to draw out accumulated internal moisture.
The crimpy, small-edge style of Shipley Glen's problems means hold breakage risk is elevated — even modest internal moisture weakens the fine-grained surface features that these routes depend on.
Mid-summer temperatures (16-23°C) are helpful for drying in principle, but the persistently unsettled pattern and high humidity have negated much of the seasonal advantage at this sheltered venue.
Contributing Factors
6
Rain on 6 of the last 12 days (cumulative ~8mm) has kept the rock periodically re-wetted with no adequate drying window.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
Minimal direct sun even in summer means drying relies solely on ambient conditions rather than solar heating of the rock surface.
Average humidity of 73-77% over the past week significantly reduces the vapour pressure gradient needed for effective drying.
Temperatures of 16-23°C provide reasonable ambient warmth to aid evaporation, though the benefit is limited by other factors.
Westerly winds of 20-26 km/h are present but their penetration into the sheltered glen is likely limited.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 48 hours of fully dry weather with humidity below 70% before visiting — tomorrow (Aug 7) and Aug 8 look promising as a drying window but conditions should be assessed on arrival.
- If you visit after the drying window, check the ground at the base of the boulders: if soil or leaf litter is still damp, the rock is almost certainly too wet internally.
- Focus on any overhanging or steeper faces first as these will have dried faster than slabs or vertical walls.
Do Not Climb
92%
11 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and receiving further rain today (7.1mm total), following several days of light but repeated precipitation. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means drying will be slow, and conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humidity and blocks airflow, meaning drying times here are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in midsummer, so solar drying is minimal — wind and ambient temperature are the only drying drivers.
- The bouldering here is characterised by small crimps and edges on technical highballs, making hold integrity absolutely critical — any residual moisture increases both breakage risk and fall risk.
- Seepage and ground-level dampness in the glen floor is a reliable indicator of rock moisture; if the woodland floor feels damp underfoot, the rock is certainly still wet inside.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet gritstone causes permanent damage to holds — small crimps and edges at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable to breakage when the rock is weakened by moisture.
- Today's rain includes a heavy 3.2mm burst forecast around 21:00; surfaces will be visibly wet and extremely slippery on the highball problems.
Reasoning
The rock has received 7.1mm of rain today on top of scattered light showers over the past week (0.1–0.5mm on Jul 31, Aug 1–3), so the gritstone is currently saturated or near-saturated at the surface and internally.
With the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting, minimal direct sun, and humidity averaging 72–86% recently, effective drying has been negligible between the repeated light showers — the rock has had no meaningful continuous dry spell since July 27.
Millstone Grit loses up to 30–50% compressive strength when wet, and the small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's problems are particularly vulnerable to breakage under load when moisture is present.
Summer temperatures (17–25°C) are adequate for drying, but the sheltered aspect and repeated precipitation events have prevented the rock from drying out despite the season.
Contributing Factors
7
7.1mm of rain is falling today including heavy bursts of up to 3.2mm in the evening, keeping the rock thoroughly wet.
Light but frequent precipitation on Jul 25–27, Jul 31, Aug 1–3 has prevented the rock from ever fully drying, maintaining internal moisture.
The wooded glen blocks wind and airflow, trapping humid air against the rock and significantly slowing evaporative drying.
Minimal direct sunlight even in midsummer means solar-driven drying is negligible at this crag.
Humidity has been consistently 70–86% over the past week, reducing the vapour pressure gradient needed for effective drying.
Temperatures of 17–25°C provide reasonable evaporative potential once rain ceases and humidity drops.
Wind speeds of 17–34 km/h over the coming days will help drying, though the sheltered glen will reduce effective wind at the rock face.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or for at least the next two days — the rock is wet and further rain is forecast tomorrow.
- Wait for at least 48 hours of dry weather after the last rain (likely from August 7 onwards) before visiting, and check the woodland floor for dampness on arrival.
- If conditions look borderline on August 8 or 9, test upper and lower sections separately — lower boulders in the glen will retain moisture longer than any slightly more exposed upper sections.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
12 days ago
The last significant rain was 5.1mm over 25–27 July, followed by a largely dry spell with only trace amounts (0.1–0.6mm) on 31 July, 1 Aug, and 2 Aug; today has been dry through the afternoon with warm temperatures and low humidity, which should have allowed surface drying. However, the sheltered woodland setting, north-facing aspect, and recurring trace precipitation mean internal moisture may linger — a careful visual and tactile check on arrival is essential before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded glen setting traps humid air and limits airflow, meaning drying times are significantly longer than at exposed moorland grit venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in summer, so the main drying mechanisms are ambient temperature and wind rather than solar radiation.
- Scattered trace precipitation on 31 July (0.1mm), 1 Aug (0.5mm), 2 Aug (0.1mm), and today (0.6mm forecast this evening) keeps resetting the surface drying clock despite no heavy rain.
- Lower-level problems and those near the glen floor are most likely to retain seepage moisture from the woodland microclimate — prioritise elevated or more exposed blocks.
Warnings
2
- Tonight's forecast rain (0.6mm from 21:00) will re-wet surfaces — do not climb after dark or early tomorrow morning without re-checking conditions.
- The crimpy, technical style at Shipley Glen means even minor residual moisture increases both hold-breakage risk and the chance of a fall on the highball problems.
Reasoning
The rock received only light rain (5.1mm cumulative 25–27 July) with trace amounts since, and has had several warm days (up to 25°C today) to dry, but the sheltered woodland microclimate and north aspect limit evaporation, so some internal dampness may persist in less-exposed sections.
Despite 5–6 days since meaningful rain, the sheltered position, recurring trace precipitation, and north-facing aspect mean effective drying has been slow — the afternoon window today (36% humidity, 25°C, moderate wind) is helpful but the evening rain forecast (0.6mm from 21:00) will re-wet surfaces.
Structural risk is moderate-low — the total rainfall was light and the extended dry spell has allowed significant drying, but any residual internal moisture in a porous gritstone still poses hold-breakage risk on the crimpy, technical problems Shipley Glen is known for.
Summer conditions are broadly favourable with warm temperatures aiding evaporation, though the forecast shows an unsettled pattern developing with further light rain on most days through 8 August.
Contributing Factors
7
The last meaningful rain (5.1mm over 25–27 July) was 7 days ago, with only trace amounts since, providing a reasonable drying window.
Temperatures reaching 22–25°C over recent days and today's afternoon peak of 25.6°C aid evaporation from porous gritstone.
The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, significantly slowing the drying rate compared to exposed gritstone edges.
Minimal direct sunlight even in summer means the rock relies on ambient warmth and wind rather than solar drying, extending required drying time.
Small amounts on 31 July (0.1mm), 1 Aug (0.5mm), 2 Aug (0.1mm), and tonight's forecast 0.6mm keep re-wetting the rock surface and resetting drying.
Today's afternoon humidity dropping to 36% with moderate easterly wind creates a good evaporative window from late morning through early evening.
Light rain is forecast on most days through 8 August (cumulative 8.6mm), meaning conditions are unlikely to improve significantly in the coming week.
Recommendations
3
- If climbing today, go during the dry afternoon window (11:00–20:00) and visually inspect and touch-test every problem before committing — retreat if any dampness is detected.
- Prioritise elevated, more exposed blocks and avoid low-lying problems near the glen floor where moisture lingers longest.
- Consider waiting for a longer dry spell or visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue given the unsettled forecast ahead.
Climbing Outlook