Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Shipley Glen is thoroughly saturated after a prolonged wet spell totalling over 50mm in the last four weeks, with 4.8mm falling today and no meaningful drying window. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days, and the forecast offers no sustained dry period to allow adequate drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying times can be double or more compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
- The north/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in June, so solar drying is negligible and the rock relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature for evaporation.
- The bouldering here specialises in small crimps and edges — precisely the hold types most vulnerable to breakage on moisture-weakened gritstone, making wet climbing especially damaging.
- Repeated rain events since early June (nearly every day) mean the rock has had no opportunity to dry internally; surface dryness would be deeply misleading about the true saturation state.
Warnings
2
- The gritstone is deeply saturated after weeks of near-continuous rain — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage on the small crimps that define this venue.
- Surface rock may briefly appear dry during afternoon warm spells but interior moisture levels remain dangerously high; do not be deceived by a dry surface.
Reasoning
With 52.8mm over 28 days, rain on 12 of the last 14 days, and 4.8mm today, the gritstone is almost certainly at or near full internal saturation.
Despite moderate winds (20–25 km/h recently), the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect negate most drying benefit, and there have been zero consecutive dry days to allow any meaningful evaporation.
At near-full saturation the gritstone will have lost 30–50% of its compressive strength, making the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen extremely vulnerable to breakage.
Although it is early summer, temperatures have been cool (averaging ~13°C over the last week) and humidity persistently high (82% average), conditions more typical of autumn and far from the warm, dry summer weather needed to dry saturated porous rock.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 50mm in 28 days with rain on nearly every day in the last two weeks has kept the rock continuously saturated with no drying opportunity.
4.8mm fell today and further rain (0.3–6.6mm) is forecast on each of the next five days, preventing any drying reset.
The wooded glen traps moisture and blocks airflow, dramatically slowing evaporation even when ambient conditions improve.
Minimal direct sunlight means the crag lacks the solar heating that drives surface and subsurface drying on south-facing venues.
Average humidity of 82% over the last week (peaking at 94% on June 11) severely limits the atmosphere's capacity to absorb moisture from the rock.
Average temperatures around 13°C over the past week provide limited thermal energy for evaporation compared to warm summer conditions.
Winds of 20–25 km/h have been present but the sheltered glen position means very little of this reaches the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen until there has been a sustained dry spell of at least 3–4 days with low humidity and ideally some warmth — the rock needs significant time to dry internally given its current saturation.
- Consider visiting an exposed, south-facing limestone or whinstone venue instead if you need a climbing fix during this wet period.
- When you do return, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if it is damp or muddy, the rock above is certainly still too wet to climb safely.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
90%
2 days ago
Shipley Glen has received approximately 48mm of rain over the last 28 days, with 15mm in the last 7 days alone and rain as recently as yesterday (June 13: 1.2mm) followed by only one dry day before today's trace precipitation. Given the sheltered woodland setting, north/NW aspect, and persistently high humidity (~80% average over the last week), the gritstone will almost certainly still be holding significant internal moisture despite any surface drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
- The north/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight, removing the most effective drying mechanism and leaving the rock reliant on ambient air temperature and wind alone.
- The glen has experienced an exceptionally wet period from June 1–13 with rain on nearly every day (cumulative ~43mm), meaning the rock has been repeatedly re-saturated with no sustained drying window.
- The bouldering here features small crimps and edges that are particularly vulnerable to hold breakage on weakened, moisture-laden gritstone — the consequences of climbing on damp rock are both safety-critical and permanently damaging.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on internally saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — the small crimps and edges at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable.
- Surface-dry appearance is deceptive after prolonged wet periods; the rock interior can remain saturated for days in a sheltered, north-facing woodland setting.
Reasoning
With rain on 11 of the last 14 days totalling over 40mm, and only one fully dry day before today's trace rain, the gritstone at this sheltered, shaded venue is almost certainly saturated internally despite any surface drying.
The north/NW aspect receives no meaningful direct sun, the sheltered woodland blocks wind penetration, and average humidity has been ~80% — effective drying has been negligible and far short of the 48–72+ hours of genuinely favourable conditions needed after this volume of rain.
The rock is likely at or near saturation, meaning compressive strength could be reduced by 30%+ — climbing on small crimps and edges in this state risks hold breakage and permanent route damage.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but this has been an unusually wet and cool spell with temperatures averaging only 12°C over the last week, well below seasonal norms and limiting evaporative drying.
Contributing Factors
6
Rain fell on 11 of the last 14 days accumulating over 40mm, repeatedly re-saturating the porous gritstone with no adequate drying window.
The wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind from reaching the rock surface, drastically reducing evaporation rates.
The crag receives virtually no direct sunlight, removing the single most powerful drying mechanism.
Average humidity over the last 7 days has been ~80%, severely limiting the moisture gradient that drives evaporation from the rock.
Temperatures have averaged only ~12°C over the past week, well below what's needed for efficient evaporative drying of saturated sandstone.
While regional winds have been 20–30 km/h, the sheltered glen position means very little of this wind reaches the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today — the rock is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture from the prolonged wet spell.
- Wait for a sustained window of at least 3–4 consecutive fully dry days with low humidity before visiting; the sheltered, shaded setting needs extra time beyond standard gritstone drying guidelines.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue if you need to climb soon, as those sites will dry significantly faster than this sheltered glen.
Do Not Climb
90%
3 days ago
Shipley Glen has received over 20mm of rain in the last 7 days across multiple events, with the most recent significant rainfall (1.2mm) only yesterday, and today is only the first consecutive dry day. Given the sheltered, north-facing, wooded setting and persistently high humidity (~80%), the gritstone will still be holding substantial internal moisture despite any surface drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting and north/NW aspect at Shipley Glen mean it receives virtually no direct sun, so drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and what little air movement penetrates the trees.
- The past two weeks have seen near-continuous rainfall totalling ~48mm across many separate events, meaning the rock has had almost no opportunity to begin meaningful drying — it is likely close to saturation.
- Shipley Glen's technical crimpy style with small edges and holds makes it especially vulnerable to hold breakage on weakened wet gritstone, and the consequences of a snapped hold on a highball are severe.
- The base of the glen and lower boulder faces will be the last areas to dry, and moss/leaf litter in the wooded setting will keep ground moisture elevated, further slowing rock drying.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's small crimps and edges are especially vulnerable and irreplaceable.
- Highball problems on weakened wet rock pose serious injury risk from both hold failure and reduced friction.
- The rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains saturated — do not trust visual appearance alone after this prolonged wet period.
Reasoning
With 20.7mm in the last 7 days spread across almost every day and only 1 consecutive dry day, the gritstone is very likely saturated or near-saturated internally despite any superficial surface drying today.
The north/NW aspect and sheltered wooded position mean minimal solar input and reduced airflow; even with moderate winds forecast, effective drying at the rock face will be severely limited — several consecutive dry days are needed before meaningful drying occurs.
At near-saturation levels the gritstone could be experiencing 30%+ compressive strength loss, making the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen highly prone to breakage under body weight.
Although it is early summer, the recent prolonged wet spell with below-average temperatures (~12°C average) and high humidity (~80%) has negated the usual seasonal drying advantage.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 20mm fell across 6 of the last 7 days, with barely any break for drying, leaving the rock in a deeply saturated state.
Just one consecutive dry day is far too few for a sheltered, north-facing gritstone venue to begin meaningful internal drying after this volume of rain.
The woodland canopy and glen topography block wind and sun, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone.
Minimal direct sun at any time of year means the rock relies on ambient warmth and air movement alone for drying.
Average humidity of 80% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, and the wooded microclimate likely pushes local humidity even higher.
Temperatures around 13–17°C provide some evaporative potential but are insufficient to overcome the combined effect of shelter, shade, and high humidity.
Trace amounts of rain forecast over the next three days (0.2–0.6mm) will repeatedly reset any surface drying progress.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen until at least 3–4 consecutive fully dry days with humidity below 70% have passed — realistically not before June 19–20 at the earliest.
- Consider visiting an exposed, south-facing gritstone venue instead if you must climb this week, as these will dry significantly faster than Shipley Glen.
- When you do visit, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if leaf litter and soil are damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
Do Not Climb
80%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen has received over 20mm of rain in the past 7 days across multiple events, with the most recent precipitation today (0.4mm) and a significant 6.8mm event just two days ago. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with high humidity (81% average) means the rock is almost certainly still holding internal moisture despite any surface drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning effective drying rates are much slower than the headline wind speeds suggest.
- North/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in June, removing the most powerful drying mechanism for porous gritstone.
- The crag specialises in small crimps and edges — precisely the hold types most vulnerable to breakage on internally damp gritstone.
- Repeated wetting over the past two weeks (47mm across numerous events with almost no consecutive dry days) means deep saturation is likely, requiring extended drying far beyond the 48-hour minimum.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on the small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen while the rock is internally damp — hold breakage is a real and irreversible risk.
- Surface-dry gritstone can still be dangerously weakened internally after this much cumulative rainfall — do not rely on a visual check alone.
Reasoning
With 20.7mm in the last 7 days across at least 6 separate rain events and 0.4mm today, the rock has been repeatedly re-saturated with no meaningful drying window, and internal moisture levels are almost certainly elevated well above safe thresholds.
Despite moderate westerly winds, the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect severely limit effective drying; zero consecutive dry days and 81% average humidity mean evaporation has been minimal throughout this wet spell.
The crimpy, technical nature of the bouldering here places heavy reliance on small edges and crystals that are highly susceptible to grain loosening and breakage when the rock is internally damp — climbing now risks permanent route damage.
Early June should offer good conditions, but this has been an unusually wet and cool spell with temperatures averaging only 12.2°C over the past week, significantly reducing drying capacity compared to typical summer conditions.
Contributing Factors
8
Over 20mm across at least 6 rain events in the past 7 days with no consecutive dry days has kept the rock in a near-continuously saturated state.
Today's 0.4mm precipitation means there has been no uninterrupted drying window, preventing even surface moisture from fully evaporating.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humidity, drastically reducing effective drying rates compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
N/NW orientation receives minimal direct sunlight even in summer, removing the most effective natural drying mechanism.
Average humidity of 81% over the past week severely limits evaporation, and at near-saturation levels the rock simply cannot shed moisture effectively.
Average temperatures of only 12.2°C over the past week provide much less evaporative energy than typical June conditions.
Forecast winds of 17–21 km/h over the next few days will help surface drying, though the sheltered position reduces their effectiveness at the crag.
Two dry days forecast (June 14–15) with dropping humidity and rising temperatures to ~19°C should begin meaningful drying.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather before visiting — the earliest realistic window would be June 16, and even then check conditions carefully on arrival.
- On arrival, check the ground at the base of the boulders: if the soil, moss, or leaf litter is damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
- If you must visit sooner, consider an alternative exposed or south-facing venue that will have dried much faster than this sheltered glen.
Do Not Climb
92%
5 days ago
Shipley Glen has received 26mm of rain in the last 7 days across multiple events, with 2mm falling today and 6.8mm just yesterday — the rock is almost certainly saturated internally. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with high humidity (82% average over the past week, 94% yesterday) means drying will be exceptionally slow, and the gritstone will need several dry days before it is safe to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning that even the strong forecast winds (35 km/h tomorrow) will have limited drying effect at rock level.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces, removing the most effective drying mechanism — evaporation here relies almost entirely on air movement and temperature.
- Multiple rain events over the past 10 days (June 1–12) totalling ~26mm will have deeply saturated the porous gritstone well beyond the surface layer, requiring extended drying.
- The wooded glen floor will retain moisture and maintain locally high humidity around the boulders, further slowing internal drying even when ambient conditions improve.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's small crimps and edges are particularly vulnerable.
- Surface-dry appearance is misleading after prolonged wet spells; internal saturation can persist long after the surface looks climbable.
- The cumulative 47mm of rain over the past 28 days means deep internal moisture levels may take longer than usual to dissipate.
Reasoning
With 26mm of rain over the past 7 days culminating in 2mm today and 6.8mm yesterday, the gritstone is almost certainly saturated to a high degree internally, well above the critical ~1% threshold where significant strength loss begins.
Despite tomorrow's strong westerly winds, the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect will severely limit effective drying; at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather is needed, and given the cumulative saturation from repeated rain events, even that may be insufficient.
With repeated wetting over 10+ days and internal saturation likely well above 60%, climbing now risks hold breakage on the small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's problems — damage that would be permanent and irreversible.
Early June temperatures (12–18°C) are moderate but the persistently high humidity (82% average, peaking at 94%) is dramatically slowing evaporation, and conditions have been unseasonably wet for early summer.
Contributing Factors
7
26mm over the past 7 days across at least 6 separate rain events has kept the rock continuously wet with no opportunity to dry out.
2mm of precipitation today means the drying clock has not yet started, with zero consecutive dry days.
Average humidity of 82% over the past week (peaking at 94% yesterday) severely limits evaporative drying even when rain stops.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air at rock level, negating much of the benefit from the forecast strong winds.
Minimal direct sunlight reaches the rock faces, removing the most powerful natural drying mechanism.
Winds of 35 km/h forecast for tomorrow may help surface drying somewhat, though penetration into the sheltered glen will be limited.
Temperatures rising from ~14°C to ~20°C over the next few days will modestly improve drying conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or tomorrow — the rock is saturated from repeated rain events and needs a sustained dry period before conditions will be safe.
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of dry weather after today's rain, then visually and tactilely assess rock conditions on arrival — check the base of boulders and shaded faces for any dampness.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue instead if you need to climb this weekend, as those sites will dry significantly faster.
Do Not Climb
95%
6 days ago
Shipley Glen is thoroughly saturated after a prolonged wet spell totalling over 24mm in the last 7 days alone, with today adding another 5.5mm of rain throughout the day at near-100% humidity. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for days; climbing now or in the immediate future risks both hold breakage and permanent route damage.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning effective drying is significantly slower than weather station wind readings suggest.
- North/NW aspect at this latitude receives very little direct sun even in June, so solar drying contribution is minimal and the rock relies almost entirely on wind and ambient evaporation.
- The bouldering here is predominantly on small crimps and edges — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to grain loosening and breakage when gritstone is wet.
- Seepage and ground moisture in the wooded glen floor is a reliable proxy for rock condition: if the ground is damp underfoot, the boulders are certainly still wet internally.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone causes permanent hold breakage — the small crimps at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable and irreplaceable.
- Surface-dry appearance can be deceptive after prolonged wet spells; the rock interior may remain saturated for days after the surface looks climbable.
Reasoning
The rock is deeply saturated from over 24mm of rain in the past 7 days spread across nearly every day, with today adding 5.5mm more at 93–98% humidity — internal moisture levels will be very high.
Despite some wind, the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect severely limit effective drying; with essentially zero consecutive dry days and persistent high humidity (81% average over 7 days), virtually no meaningful drying has occurred.
Gritstone at this saturation level will have lost 30–50% of its compressive strength, and the crimpy, small-hold nature of the problems makes hold breakage a serious and likely risk.
Although it is early summer, the recent spell has been unseasonably cool (12°C average) and wet, negating the usual seasonal drying advantage; conditions resemble late autumn more than June.
Contributing Factors
8
Over 24mm in the last 7 days across multiple days with no meaningful dry spell means the rock is deeply and repeatedly wetted.
5.5mm forecast today with rain falling almost every hour and humidity at 93–98%, actively re-wetting the rock throughout the day.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, dramatically reducing effective evaporation rates compared to exposed moorland gritstone.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in June, removing the most effective drying mechanism for porous rock.
Average humidity of 81% over the last week with today reaching 93–98% means the moisture gradient between rock and air is too small for effective drying.
Average temperature of 12°C over the past week is below seasonal norms and slows evaporative drying.
Wind speeds of 20–30+ km/h are forecast in coming days, which will help once rain stops — though the sheltered position limits how much wind reaches the rock.
From June 14 onwards, three consecutive dry days with falling humidity (65→49%) and rising temperatures (up to 23°C) offer a genuine drying window.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Shipley Glen today or for at least the next 2–3 days; the rock is thoroughly saturated and conditions are unsafe.
- Target June 15 or 16 at the earliest, but check ground conditions on arrival — if the woodland floor is damp, the boulders are still wet inside.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue instead if you need to climb sooner, as those will dry significantly faster.
Do Not Climb
95%
8 days ago
Shipley Glen is thoroughly saturated after a prolonged wet spell — over 34mm in the last 7 days alone, with 10.6mm falling today and more rain forecast tomorrow. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means drying will be exceptionally slow; conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing and will remain poor for several days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning effective drying rates are significantly slower than the already-moderate wind speeds recorded at nearby weather stations would suggest.
- North/NW aspect at this latitude receives very little direct sunlight even in June, so solar drying contribution is minimal — the rock relies almost entirely on wind evaporation which is hampered by the woodland canopy.
- The gritstone boulders sit low in the glen and many rest on damp ground surrounded by vegetation, meaning capillary moisture can wick upward from the saturated soil as well as from direct rainfall.
- With 386 problems specialising in small crimps and edges, the risk of hold breakage on saturated gritstone is particularly acute — these features are precisely the type most vulnerable to failure when wet.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks snapping small crimps and edges — damage to Shipley Glen's signature holds would be permanent and irreversible.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried sufficiently; do not be deceived by surface conditions at this venue given the prolonged soaking.
Reasoning
The rock is thoroughly saturated: 34.3mm fell in the past 7 days with rain on 6 of those 7 days, plus 10.6mm today — there has been no meaningful dry window for any internal drying to occur.
Despite moderate wind speeds at station level, the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect drastically reduce effective drying; even after rain stops, this site would need a minimum of 3–4 consecutive dry, breezy days to begin approaching climbable conditions.
At this saturation level, gritstone compressive strength is reduced by 30–50%, making small crimps and edges highly liable to snap — climbing now risks permanent, irreversible route damage.
Early June should be a reasonable climbing season, but this prolonged wet spell with below-average temperatures (12.6°C average) and high humidity (81% average) has created winter-like moisture conditions in the rock.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 34mm in the last 7 days across 6 rain days with no meaningful dry break means the rock is deeply saturated throughout.
10.6mm today with showers continuing through the afternoon keeps the rock fully wet with zero drying opportunity.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, drastically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone edges.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in June, removing the most effective drying mechanism for rock surfaces.
Average humidity of 81% over the last week severely limits evaporation rates, and forecast humidity remains 77–85% through the coming days.
Wind speeds of 20–33 km/h are forecast, which would help drying on exposed rock — but the sheltered glen setting greatly reduces their effectiveness.
9.1mm forecast tomorrow and 2.7mm on June 11 will reset any drying progress, extending the period before conditions become climbable.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Shipley Glen for climbing until at least June 14–15, after a projected 2+ consecutive dry days with improving temperatures.
- If you need to climb this week, consider exposed limestone or whinstone venues in the Yorkshire area which are non-porous and dry much faster.
- Before visiting after the dry spell, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil and leaf litter are still damp, the rock is still too wet to climb safely.
Do Not Climb
95%
9 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently saturated after over 30mm of rain in the past week, with 7.2mm falling today alone. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with high humidity means the gritstone will need several consecutive dry days to approach safe climbing conditions.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning drying times here are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- North/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sunlight, removing the most effective drying mechanism and leaving wind and ambient temperature as the only drying drivers.
- The bouldering here is characterised by small crimps and edges on technical highballs — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to breakage on wet gritstone, where even minor grain loosening can snap a crucial crimp.
- Seepage and ground moisture in the wooded glen floor are reliable indicators — if the leaf litter and soil at the base of boulders are damp, the rock interior is certainly still wet.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone causes permanent hold breakage — the small crimps at Shipley Glen are especially vulnerable and irreplaceable.
- Surface-dry appearance is deceptive in sheltered woodland; the rock interior will remain dangerously weak long after the surface feels dry.
- Highball bouldering on weakened, wet gritstone carries serious injury risk from snapped holds.
Reasoning
With 30.3mm of rain in the past 7 days, rain on 6 of the last 8 days, and 7.2mm falling today, the gritstone is thoroughly saturated both internally and externally.
Despite moderate westerly winds, the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect severely limit drying; with average humidity at 81% over the past week and no direct sun, meaningful drying has been negligible between rain events.
The risk of hold breakage is very high — small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen are especially fragile when the gritstone is saturated, and climbing now could cause permanent, irreversible damage to classic problems.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but this prolonged wet spell with below-average temperatures (13°C average) and persistently high humidity has prevented the rock from recovering between showers.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 30mm in the past 7 days across multiple rain events means the porous gritstone is deeply saturated with no opportunity to dry between showers.
7.2mm of rain today (mostly overnight and morning) has re-soaked any surfaces that may have begun to dry, resetting the drying clock.
The wooded glen blocks wind penetration and traps humid air, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland crags.
Minimal to no direct sunlight reaches the boulders, removing the most effective drying mechanism for rock surfaces.
Average humidity of 81% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, and the woodland microclimate is likely even more humid.
While regional winds are 20–25 km/h, the sheltered glen position means very little of this wind reaches the rock surfaces to assist drying.
Temperatures averaging only 13°C over the past week provide limited thermal energy for evaporation compared to typical summer warmth.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or in the coming days — the rock is thoroughly saturated and needs an extended dry spell to recover.
- Wait for at least 3–4 consecutive dry days with humidity below 70% before considering a visit; check that the woodland floor and boulder bases are completely dry before touching the rock.
- Consider nearby non-porous alternatives (e.g. limestone at Malham or Gordale) if you need a climbing fix during this wet period.
Do Not Climb
95%
10 days ago
Shipley Glen has received over 26mm of rain in the past week across multiple days, with the most recent precipitation today (0.7mm) and significant falls on June 4th (6.8mm) and June 6th (5.2mm). The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with high humidity (averaging 83%) means the gritstone will be thoroughly saturated internally, and the forecast shows continued rain for the next several days with no meaningful drying window.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps moisture and blocks airflow, meaning drying times here are significantly longer than at exposed moorland gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/north-west aspect receives virtually no direct sun even in June, so solar drying is minimal and the rock relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature for evaporation.
- Seepage and ground-level dampness are common in the glen after wet spells — the woodland floor and mossy base areas will hold moisture for days, and water can track down through cracks from above.
- The crimpy, technical nature of the problems here means small holds are particularly vulnerable to breakage when the gritstone is weakened by moisture — even surface-dry rock can conceal dangerous internal saturation.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone at Shipley Glen risks permanent damage to the small crimps and edges that define its classic problems — holds lost now are lost forever.
- The rock surface may appear dry in places while remaining deeply saturated internally — do not be deceived by superficial dryness in the sheltered glen.
Reasoning
With 26.3mm of rain over the past 7 days spread across at least 6 rain days and no consecutive dry period, the gritstone at Shipley Glen will be deeply saturated internally, well above the critical ~1% saturation threshold where significant weakening begins.
Despite moderate winds (20–30 km/h), the sheltered woodland position negates much of their drying benefit, and with average humidity at 83% and the north-facing aspect receiving negligible direct sun, effective drying has been minimal to nonexistent between rain events.
The rock is almost certainly saturated to a degree that causes 30–50% compressive strength loss, making small crimps and edges — Shipley Glen's signature hold type — highly prone to breakage, risking both climber injury and permanent route damage.
Early June should offer reasonable drying conditions, but this unusually wet and cool spell (averaging only 13.5°C) with persistent high humidity has prevented the seasonal advantage from materialising.
Contributing Factors
7
Over 26mm across at least 6 of the past 7 days has kept the rock in a persistently saturated state with no opportunity for meaningful internal drying.
Average humidity of 83% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, particularly in the sheltered glen microclimate.
The wooded glen blocks wind penetration and traps humid air, dramatically slowing drying compared to exposed gritstone edges.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even at the summer solstice, removing the most effective drying mechanism.
Averaging only 13.5°C over the past week, evaporative drying rates are modest at best.
While winds have been moderate (20–30 km/h), the sheltered position means little of this reaches the rock face effectively.
A further 16.6mm is forecast over the next 5 days with rain on 4 of 5 days, preventing any drying window from developing.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen until a sustained dry spell of at least 3–4 days with lower humidity materialises — given the sheltered setting, the standard 48-hour rule is insufficient here.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue if conditions improve, as these will dry significantly faster than the sheltered glen.
- Monitor the forecast beyond June 12th — the first dry day shown (June 13th) would need to be followed by at least 2–3 further dry days before conditions become viable.
Do Not Climb
95%
11 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently saturated after 30mm of rain in the last 7 days, including 9.6mm today, with high humidity (89%) and no drying window. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means this gritstone will need several consecutive dry days before conditions become suitable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air around the rock, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock even in summer, so drying relies entirely on ambient temperature and air movement — both currently poor.
- The glen's low-lying, wooded topography channels and retains ground moisture, meaning the base of boulders can remain damp long after the upper faces appear dry.
- Shipley Glen's crimpy, technical style places high load on small holds — exactly the type most vulnerable to breakage on internally damp gritstone.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry while remaining dangerously weak internally; do not rely on visual or touch assessment alone after this much rain.
- The forecast shows no adequate drying window for at least a week — patience is essential to protect these routes.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally after 30mm of rain over the past week, culminating in 9.6mm today, with sustained high humidity (82% average) preventing meaningful drying between showers.
Despite moderate temperatures (~14–18°C), the sheltered north-facing woodland setting and persistently high humidity (83–89%) mean there has been negligible net drying between recent rain events, and no dry window has begun.
With the rock likely at or near full saturation, compressive strength will be reduced by 30%+ and small crimps are at serious risk of breakage under climbing loads.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled pattern with cool temperatures and high humidity is delivering near-winter drying rates at this sheltered venue.
Contributing Factors
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30mm in the last 7 days with 9.6mm falling today means the rock is thoroughly saturated with no opportunity to begin drying.
Humidity has averaged 82% over the past week and is 89% today, severely limiting evaporation from the rock surface.
The enclosed glen traps moist air and blocks wind penetration, dramatically reducing drying rates compared to exposed gritstone edges.
N/NW orientation receives minimal direct sunlight even in summer, removing the single most effective drying mechanism.
Average temperatures of only 13.5°C over the past week limit evaporation potential, especially combined with high humidity.
The forecast shows continued intermittent rain through at least June 11, preventing any sustained drying window from developing.
Recommendations
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- Do not visit Shipley Glen until at least 3–4 consecutive fully dry days with humidity below 70% have occurred.
- Consider exposed, south-facing gritstone venues instead, which will dry far faster in the current conditions.
- Check the ground at the base of the boulders on arrival — if the soil or leaf litter is damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally.
Climbing Outlook