Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Shipley Glen has received repeated rain over the past week with no meaningful dry spell, and today itself has seen 1mm of precipitation. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting means the gritstone will be thoroughly damp internally despite any surface drying, and conditions are not suitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks wind from reaching the rock, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
- The north/north-west aspect receives almost no direct sun at this time of year, removing the most effective drying mechanism for porous rock.
- The bouldering here relies on small crimps and edges — exactly the type of holds most vulnerable to breakage on damp gritstone due to grain loosening.
- Seepage and ground moisture will be elevated given 64mm of rain in the past 28 days; check the ground at the base of boulders as a proxy for internal rock moisture.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on wet gritstone at Shipley Glen risks permanent hold breakage — the small crimps and edges are especially fragile when damp.
- Surface-dry appearance can be deceptive after short dry spells; the sheltered woodland environment means internal moisture persists far longer than at exposed venues.
- Yorkshire gritstone ethics are clear: do not climb on damp rock — access could be jeopardised if damage occurs.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally: 13.7mm fell in the last 7 days across multiple events (7.4mm on Apr 11, 3.2mm on Apr 12, 1.0mm today), with no consecutive dry days to allow any meaningful drying.
Despite moderate westerly winds in the wider area, the sheltered woodland setting shields the rock from wind-assisted drying, and the north-facing aspect receives negligible direct sun — effective drying has been minimal to non-existent since the last significant rain.
With repeated wetting cycles and no drying window, the gritstone will have significant compressive strength loss; the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen are at high risk of breakage under load.
Early spring conditions with temperatures averaging only 8.7°C over the past week, combined with high humidity (73% average), mean evaporation rates are low and the prolonged wet winter will have left deep moisture in the rock.
Contributing Factors
6
Rain has fallen on 5 of the last 7 days totalling 13.7mm with no consecutive dry days, keeping the rock in a persistently wet state.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air around the boulders, severely limiting evaporative drying.
The N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in April, removing the most powerful drying force.
Today has recorded 1.0mm of precipitation, meaning the rock is actively receiving new moisture with zero hours of drying.
Temperatures around 8–13°C are not freezing but are insufficient to drive rapid evaporation, especially in shade.
64.3mm over 28 days represents a persistently wet period, meaning deep rock moisture levels will be elevated well beyond what surface appearance suggests.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today — the rock is wet from ongoing and recent rain with no drying window.
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of continuous dry weather with low humidity before visiting; given the sheltered setting, err toward the longer end.
- If keen to climb today, consider a non-porous alternative such as a limestone or volcanic crag where structural damage from moisture is not a concern.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
90%
2 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today saw 2.7mm of rain on top of 7.4mm yesterday and persistent light precipitation throughout the past week, with no consecutive dry days recorded — the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will have retained significant moisture throughout.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning the strong SW winds recorded today will have minimal drying effect at rock level among the trees.
- The north/NW aspect means even the improving spring sun angles provide virtually no direct solar heating to the rock faces, leaving drying entirely dependent on ambient temperature and air movement.
- The glen's bouldering problems — particularly the low-level faces and bases of blocks — will be the last to dry, as water drains downward and the woodland floor retains moisture that keeps local humidity high.
- With 66mm of rain in the past 28 days and repeated wetting events preventing any sustained drying period, the gritstone here is likely deeply saturated beyond what surface appearance might suggest.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's characteristic small crimps and edges are especially vulnerable when the rock is weakened.
- The surface may appear to dry before the interior does — do not be deceived by a dry-looking surface after only one dry day at this sheltered site.
- The prolonged wet period means even apparently solid holds may have reduced structural integrity from cumulative moisture exposure.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally: 2.7mm fell today, 7.4mm yesterday, and there have been zero consecutive dry days — the gritstone has had no opportunity to dry out.
Despite moderate winds aloft (36 km/h SW today), the sheltered woodland position means negligible wind reaches the rock surfaces, and the north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun even in April, so effective drying has been extremely limited.
With prolonged saturation from repeated wetting over the past month (66mm in 28 days with no sustained dry spell), compressive strength loss of 10–50% is likely, making the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen particularly vulnerable to breakage.
Early spring conditions with average temps around 8.7°C and recent overnight lows near freezing (0.7°C on April 6) mean slow evaporation rates, and some freeze-thaw risk remains for saturated rock on cold nights.
Contributing Factors
8
2.7mm today following 7.4mm yesterday means the rock surface is actively wet with no drying window.
Zero consecutive dry days means the gritstone has been repeatedly re-wetted before any meaningful drying could occur.
66.2mm over 28 days with frequent wetting events means deep internal saturation well beyond what surface drying can address quickly.
The glen's trees block wind and trap humid air, dramatically reducing the already limited drying potential at this north-facing site.
Even with improving spring sun angles, the north-facing rock receives negligible direct solar radiation to drive evaporation.
Temperatures around 10–12°C are not cold enough to halt drying entirely but are insufficient to drive rapid evaporation, especially at this sheltered site.
While winds are 36 km/h SW today, the sheltered glen position means very little of this reaches the rock faces.
Overnight lows are mostly above freezing now but occasional dips near 0°C with saturated rock still pose some cumulative freeze-thaw concern.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today — the rock is wet from active rainfall and deeply saturated from weeks of repeated wetting.
- Wait for a minimum of 3–4 consecutive fully dry days with low humidity before visiting, given the sheltered woodland setting and north aspect.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue if desperate to climb, but check conditions carefully even there given the recent wet spell.
Do Not Climb
90%
3 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently receiving rain today (4.6mm) following a very unsettled period with 10.9mm in the last 7 days and 61mm over 28 days. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture for considerably longer than exposed gritstone venues — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning the strong southerly winds today are doing very little to dry the boulders within the glen itself.
- The north/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces even on clear days, so drying relies almost entirely on ambient temperature and air movement — both of which are limited here.
- The prolonged wet spell from late March onwards (16.6mm on Mar 24, 8.1mm on Mar 25, further rain on Mar 27-30) followed by only brief dry spells means the porous gritstone has had minimal opportunity to dry internally, even if surfaces occasionally appear dry.
- Many of the highball problems here feature small crimps and edges that are particularly susceptible to hold breakage on moisture-weakened gritstone — the consequences of a snapped hold at height are severe.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet gritstone causes permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried — do not be deceived by surface appearance at this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
With 4.6mm of rain falling today on top of frequent rainfall events over the past two weeks (only brief 2-3 day dry windows), the gritstone at Shipley Glen is almost certainly saturated or near-saturated internally.
Despite moderate winds in the wider area, the sheltered woodland position blocks effective air movement across the rock, and the north/NW aspect receives negligible direct sun — drying since the last meaningful dry spell (Apr 6-8) has been interrupted by rain on Apr 9, 10, and now today.
At likely >60% pore saturation from cumulative recent rainfall, there is significant risk of hold breakage on the small crimps and edges that characterise Shipley Glen's problems, compounded by potential freeze-thaw damage from overnight frosts in late March.
Early spring in northern England means cool temperatures, limited solar elevation, and frequent Atlantic frontal systems — the 28-day total of 61mm reflects a typical unsettled spring pattern that keeps porous gritstone persistently damp.
Contributing Factors
7
4.6mm of rain is falling today, directly wetting the rock surface and replenishing internal moisture.
Rain has fallen on 5 of the last 7 days totalling 10.9mm, with 61mm over 28 days, giving the gritstone almost no opportunity to dry internally.
The wooded glen blocks wind from reaching the rock faces, drastically reducing the effectiveness of today's 32.8 km/h winds for drying.
The north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight even in April, removing the most effective drying mechanism for porous rock.
Temperatures around 9°C are not cold enough to severely inhibit drying but are far from the warm conditions needed to rapidly dry saturated gritstone.
Humidity at 66% is relatively low and would normally aid drying, but this benefit is negated by active rainfall and the sheltered setting.
Minimum temperature of 4.6°C keeps conditions above freezing, avoiding immediate freeze-thaw damage.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today — the rock is actively wet and internally saturated from weeks of frequent rain.
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 3-4 days with reasonable temperatures before considering a visit, given the sheltered north-facing setting.
- If conditions improve later in the week, check the ground at the base of boulders — if soil and leaf litter are damp, the rock is still too wet internally.
Do Not Climb
90%
4 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently unsuitable for climbing. Today has seen 1.1mm of rain with no consecutive dry days, following a persistently wet period (61.7mm in 28 days), and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will have prevented meaningful drying between frequent rain events. The forecast offers no respite, with rain expected on each of the next five days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps moisture and blocks airflow, meaning that even moderate wind forecast values (30 km/h SW today) will have minimal drying effect at rock level among the trees.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock in early April — solar drying contribution is negligible, and the boulders will retain internal moisture far longer than south-facing gritstone venues.
- The 28-day total of 61.7mm with rain falling on the majority of days means the gritstone has been repeatedly re-wetted before any meaningful drying could occur — internal saturation is likely high.
- Shipley Glen's bouldering relies on small crimps and edges which are precisely the hold types most vulnerable to breakage on weakened, moisture-saturated gritstone.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps and edges are especially vulnerable.
- Surface-dry rock does NOT mean safe rock: after weeks of repeated wetting, the interior of the gritstone will remain saturated long after the surface appears dry.
- The upcoming forecast shows no viable drying window in the next 5 days; do not plan visits until a sustained dry period materialises.
Reasoning
With rain today (1.1mm), rain yesterday (1.4mm), and only a brief 2-day dry window (Apr 6–8) interrupting weeks of frequent precipitation totalling 61.7mm, the gritstone is almost certainly saturated internally despite any surface drying.
The sheltered woodland setting and north/NW aspect severely limit both wind penetration and solar drying; the brief dry spell of April 6–8 (with warmer temps up to 20.5°C) would have begun surface drying but was insufficient to dry the interior of repeatedly soaked porous gritstone before rain returned on April 9.
With high internal moisture from prolonged wet weather, compressive strength is likely reduced by 10–50%, making the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen particularly vulnerable to breakage — climbing now risks permanent damage to irreplaceable problems.
Early spring in Yorkshire means temperatures are modest (averaging 8.6°C over the past week), humidity remains relatively high, and days are still short — all of which slow drying rates and extend the time needed after prolonged wet periods.
Contributing Factors
7
1.1mm today and 1.4mm yesterday mean zero consecutive dry days and active surface wetting of the rock.
61.7mm over 28 days with rain on the vast majority of days means the gritstone has been repeatedly re-saturated with no opportunity for deep drying.
The wooded glen blocks wind penetration at rock level and traps humid air, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone.
North and north-west facing boulders receive virtually no direct sunlight in early April, eliminating solar-driven drying.
Three dry days with temperatures up to 20.5°C would have started surface drying, but this was insufficient to deeply dry saturated gritstone before rain returned on April 9.
Average 8.6°C over the past week is adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying of deeply wet porous rock.
Rain is forecast on each of the next five days (totalling ~15mm), preventing any meaningful drying window from developing.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Shipley Glen today or in the coming days — the gritstone is almost certainly wet internally and structurally weakened.
- Consider visiting a non-porous alternative such as a limestone sport crag or whinstone venue where structural damage from moisture is not a concern.
- Monitor conditions for a sustained dry spell of at least 3–4 days (ideally with warm, breezy weather) before returning — given the prolonged saturation and sheltered setting, even the standard 48-hour rule is insufficient here.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
5 days ago
After three genuinely dry days (April 6–8) with warm temperatures up to 20.5°C, the rock has had a reasonable drying window following the last significant rain on April 5 (4.2mm). However, Shipley Glen's sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect significantly slow drying, and today's 0.5mm of light rain plus high overnight humidity mean conditions should be verified on arrival before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Shipley Glen's wooded glen setting traps humid air and blocks airflow, meaning drying times can be 50–100% longer than exposed moorland gritstone edges like Ilkley or Almscliff.
- The north/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunshine even during April's longer days, so the warm spell on April 7–8 would have had limited direct drying effect on rock faces.
- Lower-level problems and those near the stream or in deeper recesses of the glen are likely to retain more moisture than higher, more exposed boulders — prioritise the latter if conditions look borderline.
- The 76.4mm of rain in the last 28 days represents a very wet recent period, and porous gritstone at this sheltered site may still hold residual internal moisture despite three dry days.
Warnings
2
- The small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's problems are especially vulnerable to breakage on internally damp gritstone — if any hold feels grainy or soft, stop climbing immediately.
- 76.4mm of rain in the past month means deep internal moisture may persist despite dry-looking surfaces — err on the side of caution.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 4.2mm on April 5, followed by three dry days with warm temperatures (up to 20.5°C on April 8), but today brings 0.5mm of light rain and the sheltered, north-facing setting limits evaporation — the rock surface may be mostly dry on higher boulders but internal moisture from the wet March–April period likely persists.
Three dry days with above-average temperatures and moderate winds provide a decent but not fully convincing drying window for a sheltered, north-facing woodland crag; the warm afternoon of April 8 (20.5°C, low humidity ~51%) was the best drying period, but the overnight humidity rose to 88–90% which partially offsets gains.
With 76.4mm of rain in the past 28 days and the gritstone's porous nature, there is a moderate risk of residual internal moisture weakening holds — particularly on the crimpy, small-hold problems that define this venue.
Early April in Yorkshire brings variable weather with limited solar angle for north-facing crags; the recent warm spell is encouraging but spring conditions remain unpredictable with further light rain forecast.
Contributing Factors
8
April 6–8 were completely dry with warm temperatures reaching 20.5°C, providing the best drying window in weeks.
0.5mm forecast today interrupts the drying trend and re-wets surface rock, though the amount is very small.
The wooded glen traps moisture and blocks wind, significantly slowing drying compared to exposed gritstone edges.
N/NW aspect receives minimal direct sun even in April, greatly reducing solar-driven evaporation from the rock.
76.4mm in 28 days means the gritstone has been repeatedly saturated, and porous rock at a sheltered site may retain deep internal moisture.
Humidity reached 88–90% overnight and will impede overnight drying, partially negating yesterday's warm afternoon.
29.9 km/h westerly wind today will help surface drying, though the sheltered glen blocks much of this benefit.
Tomorrow's forecast of 65% humidity with southerly wind at 22 km/h should provide reasonable drying conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Visit later today or tomorrow afternoon after the 0.5mm rain has dried and check rock surfaces by touch and visual inspection — if holds feel cool or chalked areas look darkened, the rock is too damp.
- Prioritise higher, more exposed boulders away from the stream and deep recesses of the glen, as these will have dried fastest during the warm spell.
- Use the base-of-crag test: if the ground around boulder bases is visibly damp or mossy areas are saturated, assume the rock retains internal moisture and do not climb.
Do Not Climb
55%
8 days ago
Shipley Glen received 4.2mm of rain yesterday (April 5th) with only one dry day since, and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will significantly retard drying. While today is dry with moderate temperatures and lower humidity, the cumulative moisture from a very wet recent period (77.6mm in 28 days) and the site's poor drying characteristics mean internal rock moisture is very likely still elevated.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting at Shipley Glen traps humid air and blocks wind from reaching the rock, meaning the moderate winds recorded at weather stations will be significantly reduced at crag level.
- The north/NW aspect means direct sunlight rarely reaches the boulders even in spring, removing one of the most effective drying mechanisms during these marginal conditions.
- The glen has experienced a very wet late March period (24.7mm on March 24-25, plus repeated showers since), keeping baseline rock moisture elevated well before yesterday's rain.
- Gritstone boulders sitting on the woodland floor will wick moisture upward from saturated ground — check the soil and leaf litter at the base of problems as a moisture indicator.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on gritstone that has had only one dry day after rain — surface-dry appearance is misleading and climbing risks permanent hold breakage on these irreplaceable problems.
- The prolonged wet spell means even apparently dry-looking rock may have deeply saturated pore networks; the BMC and Yorkshire climbing community ethic is clear: do not climb on damp gritstone.
Reasoning
With 4.2mm of rain falling across yesterday (mostly morning through early afternoon) and only ~18 hours of dry weather since the last precipitation, the porous gritstone is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture despite potentially appearing surface-dry in places.
The sheltered woodland setting drastically reduces effective wind speed at the rock surface, and the north/NW aspect provides minimal solar heating; even with today's 71% humidity and 13°C temperatures, effective drying at this site will be far slower than the weather station data suggests.
Gritstone that has been repeatedly wetted over recent weeks (77.6mm in 28 days with very few consecutive dry days) will have deeply saturated pore networks, significantly increasing the risk of hold breakage and grain loosening under climbing loads.
Early April in a north-facing sheltered glen means limited solar angle and short effective drying windows; the prolonged wet late-winter/early-spring pattern has kept the rock in a persistently moisture-laden state.
Contributing Factors
7
4.2mm fell across April 5th, predominantly in the morning, with only ~18 hours of dry weather since the last shower.
The wooded glen blocks wind and traps humid air, drastically slowing evaporation compared to exposed moorland gritstone venues.
The north-facing aspect receives negligible direct sunlight even in April, removing the most effective drying mechanism.
77.6mm over 28 days with very few consecutive dry days means the rock's pore network has been repeatedly saturated with little chance to dry out fully.
Today is forecast dry at 13.2°C with 71% humidity and a light southerly breeze, which will begin surface drying.
April 7th forecast at 17.5°C with 67% humidity offers a good drying window, though shelter limits its effectiveness at this site.
Last night dropped to ~2.7°C with 85% humidity, which would have stalled drying and potentially caused condensation on the cold rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until April 8th before visiting, allowing two full dry days with warm temperatures to begin meaningful drying of the sheltered boulders.
- On arrival, check the ground and leaf litter at the base of problems — if the soil feels damp, the rock above is almost certainly still wet internally.
- Consider visiting a more exposed, south-facing gritstone venue today if conditions are needed; Shipley Glen's setting makes it one of the slowest-drying options in the area.
Do Not Climb
70%
9 days ago
Shipley Glen has received frequent rain over the past two weeks with no meaningful dry spell, and today itself has seen 1.7mm of precipitation. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will retain this moisture — the rock is almost certainly still damp internally despite any surface drying from today's strong winds.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting traps humid air and shields the rock from wind, meaning the strong westerly today (46 km/h) will be significantly attenuated at crag level, reducing its drying benefit.
- The north/NW aspect means that even as days lengthen in early April, the boulders receive virtually no direct sunshine to drive evaporative drying.
- With 75mm of rain in the last 28 days and only brief dry interludes, the gritstone is likely deeply saturated — surface dryness will be misleading on crimpy holds that rely on grain-level friction.
- Shipley Glen's signature small crimps and edges are particularly vulnerable to hold breakage on weakened wet gritstone, and the highball nature of many problems increases the safety consequence of any hold failure.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the rock has been freshly wetted and is deeply saturated from weeks of frequent rain; hold breakage risk on small crimps is real.
- Freeze-thaw cycles with overnight lows near 0°C and saturated rock may be causing cumulative structural damage — inspect holds carefully even when conditions eventually dry.
Reasoning
With 9.7mm in the last 7 days spread across multiple events (including 6.8mm on March 29, 2.5mm on March 30, and further light rain on April 1–5), and 75mm over 28 days, the gritstone is deeply moisture-laden with no consecutive dry days to begin meaningful internal drying.
Today's strong westerly wind would normally aid drying, but the sheltered woodland position greatly reduces effective airflow at the rock surface, and the north/NW aspect provides no solar assistance — meaningful drying has barely begun.
At the likely internal saturation level following weeks of repeated wetting, compressive strength loss of 10–50% is expected, posing real risk of hold breakage on the small crimps and edges that define Shipley Glen's climbing.
Early April in Yorkshire brings improving but still marginal conditions; temperatures averaging ~8°C over the last week are modest, humidity has averaged 78%, and the spring equinox means north-facing aspects still receive very limited solar energy.
Contributing Factors
8
Rain has fallen on most days over the past two weeks with 75mm total in 28 days and no dry spell longer than a few days, keeping the porous gritstone deeply saturated.
Light rain today means the surface has been freshly wetted with zero consecutive dry days, resetting any partial drying progress.
The wooded glen significantly reduces wind exposure at crag level, negating much of the benefit of today's strong 46 km/h westerly and trapping humid air around the rock.
The north-facing orientation means the boulders receive negligible direct sunlight even as spring days lengthen, severely limiting solar-driven evaporation.
The 46 km/h westerly wind provides some drying potential, though its effectiveness is greatly reduced by the sheltered woodland position.
Today's humidity of 70% is the lowest in over a week, and the forecast shows further drops to 64–69%, creating a modest vapour pressure gradient to aid drying.
Average temperatures around 8°C over the past week are only moderate for driving evaporation, and overnight lows near freezing slow drying further.
Tonight's forecast minimum of 0.3°C and recent sub-zero nights (March 26: -0.6°C) combined with saturated rock create conditions for freeze-thaw damage.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for the promising dry spell forecast from April 6–8 (three consecutive dry days with improving temperatures up to 17°C) before visiting — this is likely the best window in the coming week.
- If visiting after the dry spell on April 8, check the ground at the base of the boulders: if soil and leaf litter are still damp, assume the rock is too wet internally.
- Given the deeply saturated state of the gritstone, avoid the lower sections and base of boulders which will dry last; prioritise any south-facing or overhanging problems if you do climb.
Do Not Climb
88%
10 days ago
Shipley Glen has received frequent rain over the past two weeks (72.8mm in 28 days) with 1.7mm falling today, and there have been zero consecutive dry days. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting combined with high average humidity (81%) means the gritstone will be holding significant internal moisture despite any surface drying between showers.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered woodland setting traps humid air and blocks wind from reaching the rock, meaning the strong W/SW winds recorded at weather stations will have far less drying effect at the crag itself.
- The north/NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun at this time of year, so solar drying — one of the most effective mechanisms — is almost entirely absent.
- The repeated wetting cycle over the past two weeks (rain on 24th, 25th, 27th, 28th, 29th, 30th, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and today) means the rock has been continuously re-saturated with no chance to dry out internally.
- Highball bouldering on small crimps and edges is especially risky on weakened gritstone — hold breakage on these featured problems would cause permanent damage to classic lines.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone causes permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's small crimps and edges are particularly vulnerable and irreplaceable.
- The rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains dangerously weakened — do not rely on visual or touch assessment alone after such a prolonged wet period.
Reasoning
With rain on 8 of the last 12 days and 1.7mm today, the gritstone at Shipley Glen will be saturated or near-saturated internally, well above the critical ~1% threshold where significant strength loss begins.
Despite moderate winds at the weather station, the sheltered woodland position drastically reduces effective airflow at the rock face; combined with the N/NW aspect providing no direct sun, meaningful drying has not occurred between the frequent rain events.
Gritstone at this level of internal saturation will have suffered 10–50% compressive strength reduction, making the small crimps and edges characteristic of Shipley Glen highly vulnerable to breakage under load.
Early April in a wet spring means the rock has been through months of winter saturation; overnight lows near or below freezing (e.g. -0.6°C on March 26th, 0.8°C forecast April 6th) add cumulative freeze-thaw stress to already weakened rock.
Contributing Factors
8
Rain has fallen on 8 of the last 12 days totalling 14.2mm in the past week and 72.8mm over 28 days, keeping the rock in a near-continuous state of saturation.
With 1.7mm falling today, there has been no uninterrupted drying window to allow internal moisture to escape the porous gritstone.
The woodland canopy and glen topography block wind and trap humid air, drastically reducing the effective drying rate compared to exposed moorland gritstone edges.
The crag receives minimal direct sunlight year-round and essentially none during the low-sun spring period, eliminating solar drying as a factor.
Average humidity of 81% over the past 7 days severely limits evaporative drying, as the air is already nearly saturated with moisture.
Temperatures averaging 8°C are not cold enough to halt drying entirely but are too low to drive rapid evaporation, especially at this sheltered, shaded site.
While weather station wind speeds are high (46.8 km/h today), the sheltered glen position means very little of this wind reaches the rock surfaces where it would aid drying.
Recent overnight lows near or below 0°C on saturated rock (e.g. -0.6°C on March 26th) will have caused cumulative freeze-thaw microstructural damage.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 3–4 consecutive fully dry days before visiting, given the sheltered woodland setting and north-facing aspect.
- Consider nearby exposed, south-facing gritstone venues that will dry significantly faster if you need a climbing fix this weekend.
- When you do visit after a dry spell, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil and leaf litter are still damp, the rock will be too.
Do Not Climb
90%
11 days ago
Shipley Glen is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today saw 2.5mm of rain on top of a persistently wet period (75.6mm in the last 28 days, 13.5mm in the last 7 days), and the sheltered, north-facing woodland setting will have retained significant moisture throughout — the rock is almost certainly saturated internally despite any surface drying between showers.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The sheltered wooded glen traps humid air and blocks wind penetration, meaning the strong westerly winds forecast today and tomorrow provide far less drying benefit here than at exposed moorland gritstone edges.
- The north/NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight in early April, removing the most effective drying mechanism for porous rock.
- The repeated wetting cycle over the past month (rain on Mar 24–25, 27, 29–30, Apr 1–3) means the gritstone has had no opportunity to dry internally — each shower re-saturates before the previous moisture has escaped.
- The bouldering here is predominantly on small crimps and edges which are especially vulnerable to hold breakage on weakened, moisture-laden gritstone.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — the gritstone is saturated and holds are at serious risk of breakage, especially the small crimps that define many problems here.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried — do not rely on visual or touch assessment alone; allow a full 48+ hours of genuinely dry weather after April 5 before climbing.
Reasoning
With 75.6mm over 28 days, rain today (2.5mm), and rain on 5 of the last 7 days, the gritstone at Shipley Glen is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold where significant strength loss begins.
Despite some strong westerly winds, the sheltered woodland setting drastically reduces effective airflow at the rock surface, and the north-facing aspect receives negligible solar radiation in early April — drying has been minimal between the frequent rain events.
The combination of prolonged saturation and the crag's characteristic small crimps and delicate edges creates a high risk of hold breakage; gritstone at this moisture level may have lost 30–50% of its compressive strength.
Early April in a wet spring means the rock has been subject to months of winter moisture loading, and overnight temperatures near or just above freezing (min -0.6°C on Mar 26, 1.3°C on Mar 22) add cumulative freeze-thaw damage risk to already weakened stone.
Contributing Factors
7
2.5mm fell today, with additional rain on Apr 1 (0.5mm), Apr 2 (0.8mm), Mar 30 (2.5mm), and Mar 29 (6.8mm), meaning zero consecutive fully dry days.
75.6mm over 28 days represents a persistently wet period with no sustained dry window for internal moisture to escape from this porous gritstone.
The wooded glen blocks wind from reaching the rock surface, severely limiting evaporative drying despite strong regional winds.
North-facing rock in early April receives almost no direct solar radiation, removing the most powerful drying mechanism.
While regional winds are strong (40+ km/h), the sheltered position means minimal benefit reaches the rock — upgraded from negative to neutral as some air movement will still occur.
Temperatures around 7–13°C are adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying of deeply saturated rock.
Overnight lows near or below freezing in late March (min -0.6°C on Mar 26) while the rock was saturated create cumulative freeze-thaw damage concerns.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for the dry window forecast from April 5–7 (low humidity, no rain, warmer temperatures) and assess conditions on-site from April 7 at the earliest.
- When visiting after the dry spell, check the ground at the base of the boulders — if it is still damp underfoot, the rock is certainly too wet to climb.
- Consider nearby exposed, south-facing gritstone venues like Ilkley or Almscliff which will dry significantly faster than this sheltered glen.
Do Not Climb
75%
12 days ago
Shipley Glen has had a persistently wet March with 72.8mm over 28 days, and the most recent truly dry spell (March 17–23) was interrupted by heavy rain on March 24–25, followed by further showers on March 27, 29, 30, April 1, and a trace today. The sheltered, north-facing woodland setting with high humidity means the gritstone is very unlikely to have dried adequately, and we recommend not climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The wooded glen setting significantly reduces airflow at rock level despite moderate winds recorded at station height, trapping moisture around the boulders far longer than open moorland gritstone venues.
- North/NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock in early spring, removing the most effective drying mechanism and leaving evaporation dependent on wind and temperature alone.
- As a bouldering venue with problems on smaller blocks and low-level faces, much of the climbing surface sits close to the damp woodland floor where humidity is highest and drainage slowest.
- The technical crimpy style characteristic of Shipley Glen means small holds are under high stress — exactly the holds most vulnerable to breakage on weakened, moisture-laden gritstone.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on moisture-laden Millstone Grit risks permanent hold breakage — Shipley Glen's signature small crimps are especially vulnerable.
- The surface of gritstone can feel dry to the touch while the interior remains significantly weakened; do not rely on surface feel alone.
Reasoning
With 12.2mm of rain in the last 7 days including 6.8mm on March 29, 2.5mm on March 30, 0.5mm on April 1, and 0.2mm today, the rock has had zero consecutive fully dry days and is almost certainly holding significant internal moisture.
Despite moderate westerly winds in recent days, the sheltered woodland position and north-facing aspect severely limit effective drying; average humidity of 79% over the last week and overnight readings regularly above 85% mean evaporation rates have been very low.
The cumulative effect of a very wet March (72.8mm) on porous Millstone Grit means the rock is likely at elevated saturation levels, creating real risk of hold breakage on the small crimps that define Shipley Glen's climbing.
Early April in a wet spring means ground moisture is high, days are still relatively short, and sun angle remains low — all factors that prolong drying at this north-facing, low-altitude woodland site.
Contributing Factors
8
Rain has fallen on 5 of the last 7 days totalling 12.2mm with no consecutive dry days, keeping the rock repeatedly wetted.
The wooded glen traps humid air around the boulders, drastically reducing effective wind-driven evaporation compared to exposed moorland crags.
N/NW aspect receives negligible direct sun in early spring, removing the most powerful drying factor.
Average humidity of 79% over the past week with overnight readings regularly exceeding 85% severely limits evaporative drying.
Temperatures around 7–13°C are above freezing but not warm enough to drive rapid drying, especially in shade.
Today's forecast humidity of 69% is the lowest in over a week, which helps surface drying but is insufficient on its own given the sheltered setting.
72.8mm over 28 days means the rock has been repeatedly saturated through a prolonged wet period with insufficient drying windows to fully recover.
The March 26 overnight low of -0.6°C following heavy rain on March 24–25 may have caused freeze-thaw stress on saturated rock.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock has had zero consecutive dry days and the sheltered woodland setting means internal moisture levels are almost certainly too high for safe climbing on gritstone.
- Wait for at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with humidity below 75% before visiting; given the sheltered north-facing aspect, err toward the longer end of that range.
- If you visit to check conditions, test the ground at the base of the boulders — if the soil and leaf litter feel damp, the rock is certainly still holding dangerous levels of moisture.
Climbing Outlook