Five consecutive dry days with warm temperatures (up to 29°C) and moderate winds on a SW-facing crag provide excellent drying conditions. The last significant rain was 6.5mm on August 9th, and the rock should be well dried by now.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
How accurate is this verdict?
Climbing Outlook
Site Details
Widely regarded as having the best bouldering in Northumberland. Set in woodland near Lowick, though tree felling (2020) and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) removed much of the canopy — the crag is less sheltered than older guides suggest, with better air circulation but still broadly protected on a windy day. The steep, pocket-rich Fell Sandstone draws dedicated boulderers from across the UK. Approach only via the designated northern gate track.
Condition Notes
Woodland setting has changed significantly since 2020: Scottish Woodlands felled trees in front of and above the crag, and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) caused further widespread canopy loss across the plantation. The crag is now less prone to condensation and drip than it once was, with improved topping-out and better air circulation. Still broadly sheltered on a windy day, but the 'perma-dry' reputation of older sources should not be relied upon. Steep pocket-rich rock holds moisture in features. Allow at least 1-2 dry days after rain — more in cold or still conditions.
- Rock Type
- Sandstone
- Wind Exposure
- Partial
- Altitude
- 130m
- Climbing
- Bouldering
- Aspects
- SW
- Problems
- 100
- Boulder Grades
- Font 3 – Font 8B+
- Access
- Private (Permissive)
- Approach
- 10 min
Site Data
- Name
- Kyloe-in-the-Woods
- County
- Northumberland
- Rock Type
- Sandstone
- Climbing Types
- Bouldering
- Aspects
- SW
- Wind Exposure
- Partial
- Altitude
- 130m
- Latitude
- 55.613
- Longitude
- -1.876
- OS Grid Ref
- NU 048385
- Access Type
- Private (Permissive)
- Approach Time
- 10 min
- Problem Count
- 100
- Route Count
- —
- Boulder Grades
- Font 3 – Font 8B+
- Trad Grades
- —
- Tidal
- No
- Parking Notes
- Park at NU 03532 38979. Do not obstruct gates or turning areas. One side of road only.
- Condition Notes
- Woodland setting has changed significantly since 2020: Scottish Woodlands felled trees in front of and above the crag, and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) caused further widespread canopy loss across the plantation. The crag is now less prone to condensation and drip than it once was, with improved topping-out and better air circulation. Still broadly sheltered on a windy day, but the 'perma-dry' reputation of older sources should not be relied upon. Steep pocket-rich rock holds moisture in features. Allow at least 1-2 dry days after rain — more in cold or still conditions.
- ID
- ffe6fe05-f9ad-4465-b90b-cc59724c24eb
Community
Local knowledge and data feedback from climbers
Inconsistency Reports
Dense woodland note incorrect as trees have felled following storm Arwen in 2021. Not sure if this is factoring into drying data but if so needs to reflect open crag conditions.