CountyEthics

Kyloe-in-the-Woods

Sandstone · Partial exposure · 130m altitude

Marginal — assess
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
confidence

The last significant rain was 13.3mm on Aug 19, followed by 2.3mm on Aug 20 and trace amounts on Aug 21 and 25. There have been approximately 4.5 dry days since the last meaningful precipitation (0.4mm on Aug 25), but humidity has been high (78% average over the past week) and today's humidity is very high (89% daily, peaking at 97% overnight), limiting drying effectiveness. A visual check on arrival is essential, particularly of pockets and lower sections.

Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.

View full analysis Analysis 55d ago

How accurate is this verdict?

Climbing Outlook

Today 20 Oct
Marginal 62%
Thu 27 Aug
Do Not Climb 95%
Fri 28 Aug
Do Not Climb 95%
Sat 29 Aug
Do Not Climb 90%
Sun 30 Aug
Do Not Climb 85%
Mon 31 Aug
Do Not Climb 60%

Site Details

Widely regarded as having the best bouldering in Northumberland. Set in woodland near Lowick, though tree felling (2020) and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) removed much of the canopy — the crag is less sheltered than older guides suggest, with better air circulation but still broadly protected on a windy day. The steep, pocket-rich Fell Sandstone draws dedicated boulderers from across the UK. Approach only via the designated northern gate track.

Condition Notes

Woodland setting has changed significantly since 2020: Scottish Woodlands felled trees in front of and above the crag, and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) caused further widespread canopy loss across the plantation. The crag is now less prone to condensation and drip than it once was, with improved topping-out and better air circulation. Still broadly sheltered on a windy day, but the 'perma-dry' reputation of older sources should not be relied upon. Steep pocket-rich rock holds moisture in features. Allow at least 1-2 dry days after rain — more in cold or still conditions.

Rock Type
Sandstone
Wind Exposure
Partial
Altitude
130m
Climbing
Bouldering
Aspects
SW
Problems
100
Boulder Grades
Font 3 – Font 8B+
Access
Private (Permissive)
Approach
10 min

Site Data

Name
Kyloe-in-the-Woods
County
Northumberland
Rock Type
Sandstone
Climbing Types
Bouldering
Aspects
SW
Wind Exposure
Partial
Altitude
130m
Latitude
55.613
Longitude
-1.876
OS Grid Ref
NU 048385
Access Type
Private (Permissive)
Approach Time
10 min
Problem Count
100
Route Count
—
Boulder Grades
Font 3 – Font 8B+
Trad Grades
—
Tidal
No
Parking Notes
Park at NU 03532 38979. Do not obstruct gates or turning areas. One side of road only.
Condition Notes
Woodland setting has changed significantly since 2020: Scottish Woodlands felled trees in front of and above the crag, and Storm Arwen (Nov 2021) caused further widespread canopy loss across the plantation. The crag is now less prone to condensation and drip than it once was, with improved topping-out and better air circulation. Still broadly sheltered on a windy day, but the 'perma-dry' reputation of older sources should not be relied upon. Steep pocket-rich rock holds moisture in features. Allow at least 1-2 dry days after rain — more in cold or still conditions.
ID
ffe6fe05-f9ad-4465-b90b-cc59724c24eb

Community

Local knowledge and data feedback from climbers

Inconsistency Reports

Dense woodland note incorrect as trees have felled following storm Arwen in 2021. Not sure if this is factoring into drying data but if so needs to reflect open crag conditions.