Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Great Wanney has experienced a prolonged wet spell with 56.5mm over 28 days and frequent rain over the last two weeks, with no meaningful dry window to allow internal drying. The rock will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying, and further rain is forecast every day this week — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing on this porous Fell Sandstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The exposed S/SW aspect and moorland wind would normally aid drying, but persistent high humidity (84% average over the last week) and near-continuous precipitation have negated these advantages.
- The 20–30 minute boggy walk-in is itself a reliable indicator of ground saturation — if the approach is waterlogged, the crag will be holding significant internal moisture.
- Great Wanney's 10–20m escarpment means lower sections will retain seepage and drainage from above for days after rain stops, even when upper faces appear dry.
- The iron oxide deposits that form the small holds on Fell Sandstone are particularly vulnerable to breakage when the rock is internally saturated — routes here test their grade even in perfect conditions.
Warnings
3
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when saturated — hold breakage is a serious risk to both climber safety and irreplaceable route integrity.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has dried — do not be deceived by superficial drying in this prolonged wet spell.
- The forecast shows no viable drying window in the next 5 days; do not plan a climbing trip to Great Wanney this week.
Reasoning
Rain has fallen on 12 of the last 16 days totalling over 45mm, with the longest dry gap being just two days — the rock will be deeply saturated well beyond the critical 60% pore saturation threshold.
Despite the S/SW aspect and exposed position, there has been no sustained dry period (the best gap was June 13–14 with trace rain on the 13th), and humidity has consistently exceeded 80%, meaning negligible net evaporation and no meaningful internal drying.
With prolonged saturation, compressive strength is likely reduced by 30–50%, making hold breakage a serious risk — climbing now would cause permanent damage to this spectacular and irreplaceable crag.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this has been an exceptionally wet spell; temperatures around 10–13°C at 280m altitude are cool enough to slow drying significantly.
Contributing Factors
6
56.5mm over 28 days with rain on 12 of the last 16 days has kept the rock in a near-continuously wetted state with no opportunity for internal drying.
Zero consecutive dry days to date — the rock has not had the minimum 48–72 hours of dry weather needed after heavy cumulative rainfall.
Average humidity of 84% over the last week severely limits evaporative drying, even with wind exposure.
Average temperature of 9.7°C over the last week at 280m is relatively cool for June and slows the drying process.
The exposed moorland position with consistent SW winds of 19–32 km/h would aid surface drying if rain stopped, but cannot overcome the current saturation.
17.6mm of rain is forecast over the next 5 days with precipitation expected on every day through June 21, preventing any drying recovery.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Great Wanney until there have been at least 3 consecutive fully dry days with humidity below 75% — this is unlikely before late June at the earliest based on current forecasts.
- Check the approach path as a proxy: if the moorland walk-in is boggy and waterlogged, the crag will certainly be too wet internally.
- Monitor forecasts for a sustained high-pressure window; when one arrives, the exposed S/SW aspect means Great Wanney will be one of the faster-drying Northumberland sandstone crags.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
80%
2 days ago
Great Wanney has experienced a prolonged wet spell with nearly 56mm over the last 28 days and repeated rain events through early-to-mid June, with only brief dry intervals that are insufficient for the porous Fell Sandstone to dry internally. Today is nominally dry through the afternoon but rain fell yesterday, more is forecast this evening, and the coming week shows continued unsettled weather — the rock is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The 20–30 minute walk-in crosses boggy moorland, which itself acts as a useful indicator — if the approach is waterlogged, the crag base will be damp and the rock internally wet.
- Great Wanney's S/SW aspect and exposed moorland position give it above-average drying potential, but this advantage is negated by the persistent rain cycle over the past two weeks with no dry spell exceeding 1–2 days.
- The escarpment's 10–20m height means lower sections will retain moisture far longer than upper walls, and seepage from the moorland top can persist for days after rain.
- Many routes at Great Wanney are notably serious for their grade — climbing on even marginally compromised sandstone here carries elevated consequences due to the bold, traditional nature of the climbing.
Warnings
2
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — holds can snap without warning, risking serious injury and permanent route damage.
- The rock surface may appear dry in sunny or windy spells while remaining dangerously saturated internally; do not be deceived by surface appearance after such a prolonged wet period.
Reasoning
With 17.6mm in the last 7 days spread across multiple events (the last significant rain being 7.9mm on June 11 and further showers on June 12–13 and today), and no consecutive dry spell longer than about 36 hours, the rock is almost certainly saturated internally despite any surface drying.
The S/SW aspect and exposed wind (~20–31 km/h SW) would normally aid drying, but the maximum dry window since the last heavy rain (June 11) has been only about 1.5 days before the next shower, far short of the 48–72+ hours needed after heavy rain on porous Fell Sandstone.
The cumulative ~56mm over 28 days with repeated wetting cycles means the sandstone's iron-oxide holds are at elevated risk of breakage; even 1% internal saturation causes significant strength loss, and the rock has had no opportunity to dry fully.
Early June temperatures averaging only 9°C over the past week are unusually cool for the season, slowing evaporation; humidity averaging 83% further inhibits drying, making conditions more reminiscent of late autumn than summer.
Contributing Factors
6
17.6mm over the past 7 days across multiple events with no dry window exceeding ~36 hours means the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted before it could dry.
Average humidity of 83% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, keeping internal moisture locked in the porous sandstone.
Average temps around 9°C over the last week are well below seasonal norms and significantly slow the drying process.
The south/south-west facing, wind-exposed position is the best possible orientation for drying, but this advantage cannot overcome the relentless rain cycle.
Winds of 19–32 km/h from the SW/W over recent days help move moisture from the surface, partially offsetting the high humidity.
Rain is forecast every day from June 16–20 (totalling ~17.6mm), meaning no meaningful drying window is expected in the coming week.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Great Wanney this week — the rock has been repeatedly wetted with no adequate drying interval and the forecast promises more of the same.
- Monitor conditions for a sustained dry spell of at least 3 full days (ideally with wind and sun) before visiting; the crag will need an extended break from rain to dry internally.
- If you visit to check conditions, use the moorland approach and crag base as indicators — if the ground is boggy and the base is damp, the rock is certainly too wet to climb safely.
Do Not Climb
88%
3 days ago
Great Wanney has received repeated rain over the past two weeks (54mm in 28 days, 18mm in the last 7 days alone), with the most recent significant rain just 3 days ago (7.9mm on June 11) and further light rain on June 12–13. Only one full dry day has elapsed, which is wholly insufficient for porous Fell Sandstone to dry internally, especially given cool temperatures averaging under 10°C and high humidity around 82%.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The past two weeks have seen an unusually persistent wet spell with rain on 9 of the last 14 days, meaning the sandstone has had almost no opportunity to dry internally between soakings — cumulative saturation will be very high.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting at 280m means the walk-in will be boggy, which itself is a reliable indicator that the surrounding ground — and likely the crag base — remains saturated.
- The S/SW aspect and exposed position are the crag's main drying advantages, but with temperatures barely reaching 13–15°C and humidity consistently above 80%, solar gain and wind have been fighting an uphill battle against repeated re-wetting.
- The crag's 10–20m height means lower sections will retain moisture far longer than upper walls, and seepage from the moorland above can feed water into the rock from behind for days after prolonged wet periods.
Warnings
3
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing on insufficiently dried rock risks permanent hold breakage and serious injury.
- The rock surface may appear dry while remaining saturated internally after this prolonged wet period; do not trust surface appearance alone.
- The boggy moorland walk-in is itself a warning sign — if the ground is waterlogged, the crag has not dried.
Reasoning
With 7.9mm on June 11, 1.9mm on June 12, and 0.4mm on June 13, followed by only one dry day, the rock is almost certainly still saturated internally despite potentially appearing surface-dry in places.
Only ~24 hours of dry weather have elapsed since the last rain, and the preceding two weeks of repeated soaking means the rock has reached deep saturation that will require several consecutive dry days to resolve — the S/SW aspect and moderate wind today help surface drying but cannot address deep internal moisture this quickly.
The cumulative saturation from repeated wetting events over two weeks places the sandstone well within the danger zone for hold breakage and grain loosening, with compressive strength likely reduced by 30%+ internally.
Early June should offer reasonable drying conditions, but this particular spell has been unusually cool and wet for the season, with temperatures 5–7°C below seasonal norms and persistent high humidity negating much of the expected summer drying advantage.
Contributing Factors
6
54mm over 28 days with rain on 9 of the last 14 days means the sandstone has been repeatedly re-saturated with no adequate drying window.
Only one full dry day since the last rain (0.4mm on June 13), far short of the minimum 48–72 hours needed after the recent heavy spell.
Average temperature of 9.7°C and 82% humidity over the past week severely limit evaporation rates from the porous rock.
The south/south-west facing aspect and exposed moorland position provide the best possible drying conditions for this rock type, but cannot overcome the moisture deficit in just one day.
Moderate northerly wind at 16.6 km/h aids surface evaporation, though it is less effective than the prevailing SW winds that hit the face more directly.
4.1mm forecast for June 15 followed by 7.1mm on June 16 will re-saturate any surface drying achieved today, resetting the clock entirely.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock has had only one dry day after a prolonged wet spell and will be dangerously weakened internally despite any surface drying.
- With further rain forecast through June 18, the earliest realistic window is June 19–20 if the forecast holds dry — even then, assess conditions carefully on arrival.
- Check that the ground at the crag base is sandy-dry before committing to climb; if it's damp, the rock is still wet inside.
Do Not Climb
90%
4 days ago
Great Wanney has received frequent and substantial rainfall over the past two weeks (54mm in 28 days, 18.7mm in the last 7 days alone), with rain falling on most of the last 10 days and light rain again today. Despite the exposed, south-facing aspect, the rock has had zero consecutive fully dry days and the cumulative moisture loading makes internal saturation highly likely — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The prolonged wet spell from June 1–12 delivered over 50mm across multiple events with no meaningful dry window, meaning the porous Fell Sandstone has been repeatedly re-wetted before any effective drying could occur.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting at 280m means the approach track will be very boggy after this wet period — allow extra time and wear appropriate footwear.
- The S/SW aspect and strong wind exposure are the crag's key drying assets, but with humidity averaging 82% over the last week and temperatures only around 10–13°C, evaporative drying has been severely limited.
- Some lower sections and north-facing recesses on the escarpment will hold moisture significantly longer than the main south-facing walls — even when upper faces appear dry, bases and cracks may still be saturated.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today or in the immediate future — the Fell Sandstone is deeply saturated after two weeks of frequent rain and holds are at serious risk of breakage.
- Surface-dry appearance is deceptive on Fell Sandstone; internal moisture causes most of the strength loss and the rock can feel dry while remaining dangerously weak.
Reasoning
The rock has been subjected to near-continuous wetting over the past 12 days with 54mm of cumulative rainfall, today included, leaving the porous Fell Sandstone deeply saturated internally despite any surface drying between showers.
Although the crag is exposed and SW-facing, zero consecutive dry days, average humidity of 82%, and cool temperatures (~10°C) mean there has been negligible net drying — each brief dry spell was interrupted by further rain before the wetting front could recede.
With the sandstone likely saturated well above the critical 1% threshold, compressive strength is reduced by an estimated 30%+ and iron-oxide cemented holds are at serious risk of breakage under load.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but this unseasonably wet and cool spell has negated the seasonal advantage; at 280m altitude, temperatures have been marginal for effective evaporation.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 54mm across 28 days with rain on 10 of the last 13 days means the sandstone has been repeatedly re-saturated with no adequate drying window.
Light rain today (0.7mm) follows 1.9mm yesterday and 7.9mm the day before, so the drying clock has not meaningfully started.
Average humidity of 82% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying even when rain stops.
Average temperatures around 10°C at 280m altitude slow moisture migration through the rock matrix.
Strong winds (20–32 km/h) and a south-facing aspect are the crag's main drying advantages and will help once a dry spell establishes.
Repeated wetting over two weeks will have driven moisture deep into the 6.5–20.7% porosity sandstone, requiring an extended dry period to fully evacuate.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a minimum of 48–72 hours of continuous dry weather with wind and low humidity before considering a visit — this has not yet begun.
- Monitor forecasts carefully: the outlook shows further rain on June 16–18, so a viable window is unlikely before late June at the earliest.
- When conditions do improve, test the ground at the crag base — if the soil is damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally and should not be climbed.
Do Not Climb
93%
5 days ago
Great Wanney has received 24.5mm of rain in the last 7 days alone, with 6.3mm falling today and significant accumulations on recent days — the porous Fell Sandstone will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying. With no consecutive dry days, high average humidity (84%), and cool temperatures (~10°C average), the rock has had no meaningful opportunity to dry and climbing today or in the immediate future would risk permanent damage to holds and routes.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting at 280m means strong winds can assist surface drying quickly, but with persistent rain every 1–2 days since June 1st, the interior of the sandstone will remain deeply saturated regardless of wind.
- The 20–30 minute walk-in crosses boggy ground, which itself is an indicator of how waterlogged the surrounding terrain and rock base are — if the approach is boggy, the crag base will be wet.
- The S/SW aspect is normally an advantage for drying, but recent easterly and southeasterly winds (June 6–8) would have driven rain directly into the face, worsening absorption on the main climbing surfaces.
- The prolonged wet spell from June 1–12 (over 40mm across 10 of 12 days) means internal pore saturation is likely well above the critical 60% threshold, making even freeze-thaw damage a concern given the forecast low of 2.7°C on June 15th.
Warnings
3
- The rock surface may appear dry after a windy afternoon, but with this level of cumulative rainfall the interior will remain dangerously weakened — surface appearance is not a reliable indicator of safety.
- Forecast overnight low of 2.7°C on June 15th at 280m altitude could cause freeze-thaw damage to saturated sandstone, further weakening holds.
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes irreversible damage to holds and routes — the community ethic is unambiguous: do not climb when wet.
Reasoning
With rain on 10 of the last 12 days totalling over 40mm, and 6.3mm today, the sandstone's pore network will be close to its ~87–90% maximum saturation — the rock is thoroughly wet internally even if wind briefly dries the surface.
Zero consecutive dry days and average humidity of 84% mean there has been virtually no net drying; while the exposed SW aspect and moderate winds help surface evaporation, each new rainfall event re-saturates the rock before any meaningful internal drying can occur.
At this saturation level, compressive strength is reduced by an estimated 30–50%, making hold breakage highly likely — the iron oxide deposits that form small holds on Fell Sandstone are especially vulnerable when the surrounding grain matrix is weakened.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this has been an anomalously wet and cool spell; the forecast low of 2.7°C on June 15th introduces a minor freeze-thaw concern for rock at 280m altitude with high internal moisture.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 40mm has fallen across 10 of the last 12 days with no break long enough for meaningful drying, leaving the sandstone deeply saturated.
6.3mm of precipitation today means the drying clock has not yet started and zero consecutive dry days have elapsed.
Average humidity of 84% over the last week severely limits evaporative drying even with wind assistance.
An average of 9.9°C over the last seven days slows evaporation and internal moisture transport significantly compared to warmer summer conditions.
The site's high exposure and S/SW aspect provide above-average drying potential once rain finally stops, with forecast winds of 25–32 km/h tomorrow.
Light rain is forecast on 4 of the next 5 days (totalling ~5.5mm), preventing any sustained drying window from establishing.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Great Wanney until at least 48–72 hours of fully dry weather with low humidity have elapsed — this window does not appear in the current forecast.
- Check the approach path conditions: if the moorland walk-in is still boggy and the crag base soil is damp, the rock is certainly still wet internally regardless of surface appearance.
- Monitor the forecast beyond June 18th for a genuine dry spell; if one arrives, the exposed SW aspect and wind should allow Great Wanney to come into condition faster than more sheltered Northumberland crags.
Do Not Climb
92%
6 days ago
Great Wanney has received significant rainfall today (5.1mm) on top of a very wet preceding fortnight (48.8mm in 28 days, 15.3mm in the last 7 days alone), and the rock will be thoroughly saturated internally. With rain still falling through midday today and high humidity, there has been no meaningful drying whatsoever — climbing today would risk permanent damage to the sandstone and is unsafe.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting at 280m means the walk-in is boggy after prolonged wet spells — if the approach is waterlogged, the crag will be too.
- The S/SW aspect and exposed position are favourable for drying, but the nearly continuous rain from June 1–11 (cumulative ~48mm in that window) means internal saturation will be deep and require extended drying.
- The 10–20m escarpment height means lower sections will drain last; seepage at the base is likely to persist for days after such a prolonged wet period.
- With average temperatures only around 10°C over the past week and humidity consistently above 80%, evaporative drying capacity has been very limited despite the exposed position.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated Fell Sandstone causes irreversible damage to holds and routes — do not climb until conditions are confirmed dry.
- The surface may appear dry before the interior has dried sufficiently; use the ground-moisture test at the crag base as a guide.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly fully saturated internally after repeated rainfall events totalling ~48mm since June 1st, with 5.1mm falling today — surface and subsurface moisture levels will be very high.
Meaningful drying has not yet begun since today's rain only stops mid-afternoon, and the preceding two weeks offered no consecutive dry period longer than one day; even with the S/SW aspect and wind exposure, deep saturation requires 48–72+ hours of genuinely dry weather to resolve.
At this saturation level the sandstone will have lost 30%+ of its compressive strength, with iron oxide holds and grain bonds at serious risk of failure — climbing now would cause permanent route damage.
Early June should be improving, but this has been an unusually wet spell with below-average temperatures (~10°C), limiting the seasonal drying advantage that would normally apply.
Contributing Factors
6
Approximately 48mm has fallen in the last 28 days with repeated wetting events from June 1–11, leaving the sandstone deeply saturated.
5.1mm of rain today, concentrated through the morning and early afternoon, means the drying clock has not even started.
Humidity has averaged 83% over the past week and remains around 88% today, severely limiting evaporative drying.
Average temperatures of ~10°C over the last week are well below summer norms and slow the drying process.
The south/south-west facing, exposed position will aid drying once dry weather establishes, but this advantage is currently irrelevant while it is still raining.
Winds of 25–35 km/h forecast for the next few days will significantly accelerate surface drying once rain stops.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is actively wet and internally saturated from a prolonged wet period.
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather with wind before considering a visit; the earliest realistic window is June 14th, and even then assess carefully on arrival.
- Check the approach path and crag base on arrival — if the ground is boggy or damp at the foot of the crag, the rock is still too wet internally.
Do Not Climb
95%
8 days ago
Great Wanney is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. The crag has received over 26mm of rain in the last 7 days with further rain today and forecast tomorrow, leaving the porous Fell Sandstone saturated internally despite any brief dry spells between showers.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting at 280m aids wind-drying, but persistently high humidity (83% average over the last week) severely limits evaporation even when rain pauses.
- The walk-in crosses boggy ground — if the approach is waterlogged, the rock is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture.
- The S/SW aspect is favourable for solar drying, but recent 100% cloud cover and cool temperatures (~11°C) have negated much of that advantage.
- The crag's 10–20m height means lower sections will retain moisture longest as water drains downward through the porous sandstone; base routes will be the last to dry.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on wet Fell Sandstone causes permanent, irreversible damage to holds and routes — do not climb if any doubt remains about dryness.
- The rock surface may appear dry while the interior remains saturated; surface appearance alone is not a reliable indicator after this much rain.
Reasoning
With 26.2mm of rain in the past 7 days spread across multiple events (including 10.2mm on June 3, 9.9mm on June 2, and 4mm today), the Fell Sandstone is almost certainly saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold at which significant weakening begins.
There has been no meaningful dry period since the sustained wet spell began around June 1; the longest gap between rain events was roughly 24 hours (June 5), which is wholly insufficient for drying after 30mm+ of cumulative rainfall, especially with humidity consistently above 80%.
At current saturation levels the sandstone will have lost an estimated 30%+ of its compressive strength, creating serious risk of hold breakage on the iron-oxide-cemented features that define many routes.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this has been an unusually wet and cool spell; temperatures around 11°C and persistent cloud cover are slowing drying well below summer norms.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 26mm in the last 7 days across multiple rain events has kept the rock in a near-continuously wet state with no adequate drying window.
4mm forecast today and 2.3mm tomorrow mean the saturation cycle continues with no reset of the drying clock.
Average humidity of 83% over the past week drastically reduces evaporation rates even during dry intervals.
Average temperatures around 11°C provide limited thermal energy for evaporation compared to typical summer conditions.
The exposed moorland position and S/SW aspect will accelerate drying once a sustained dry spell arrives, but this advantage is currently negated by ongoing rain and cloud.
Winds of 28–31 km/h forecast for June 11–12 will significantly aid drying if rain stops after June 11.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today or in the next two days — the rock is wet and structurally compromised.
- The earliest realistic window is June 13–14 if no further rain falls after June 11; check the boggy approach as a proxy for rock moisture — if the ground is wet, the rock is wet.
- Carry a soft brush and visually inspect holds before committing; if any seepage or dark patches are visible on the rock face, back off.
Do Not Climb
92%
9 days ago
Great Wanney has received over 31mm of rain in the past 7 days with further light rain falling today and 9mm forecast tomorrow — the porous Fell Sandstone will be saturated internally and has had no meaningful drying window. Do not climb; the rock needs several consecutive dry days with good wind before conditions will be acceptable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The S/SW aspect and exposed moorland setting normally aid drying, but persistent cloud cover, high humidity (averaging 84% over the past week), and cool temperatures (~11°C) have severely limited evaporative drying.
- The prolonged wet spell from June 1–8 (cumulative ~36mm across multiple days with no dry break longer than one day) means deep saturation of the porous sandstone — surface-dry appearance should not be trusted for days after rain stops.
- The 20–30 minute walk-in crosses boggy moorland, which itself is a useful indicator: if the approach is waterlogged, the crag base will be wet and internal rock moisture is almost certain.
- Great Wanney's iron-oxide cemented small holds are particularly vulnerable to grain loosening when the rock is saturated — hold breakage risk is elevated on the bolder test-piece routes.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated Fell Sandstone risks permanent, irreversible hold breakage — the iron-oxide cemented features that define Great Wanney's routes cannot be repaired.
- The rock surface may appear dry in afternoon sun/wind while remaining dangerously saturated internally — do not be deceived by surface appearance after this prolonged wet spell.
Reasoning
With 31.7mm in the past 7 days spread across multiple events (including 10.2mm on June 3, 9.9mm on June 2, and 7.4mm on June 4) and further rain today, the sandstone is deeply saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold where significant weakening begins.
Despite the SW wind exposure (~20–25 km/h), the absence of any consecutive dry period longer than one day since May 30, combined with average humidity of 84% and cool temperatures around 11°C, means no meaningful drying has occurred — internal moisture levels remain dangerously high.
At current saturation levels, compressive strength is likely reduced by 30–50%, creating serious risk of hold breakage on the iron-oxide cemented features that define many of Great Wanney's routes.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this unseasonably wet and cool spell has kept the crag in near-winter moisture conditions; the 280m altitude compounds the cool temperatures limiting evaporative drying.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 31mm in the past 7 days across multiple rain events with no dry break longer than one day, ensuring deep and repeated saturation of the porous sandstone.
Consecutive dry days stand at zero, and rain has fallen on 6 of the last 9 days, preventing any meaningful evaporative drying between events.
Average humidity of 84% over the past week severely limits the rate of evaporation from the rock surface, even with moderate wind.
Average temperatures around 11°C are well below summer norms and slow evaporation significantly compared to warmer conditions.
Sustained SW winds of 20–25 km/h at this exposed moorland site would normally accelerate drying, but cannot overcome the persistent moisture input and high humidity.
9.1mm forecast for June 9 will re-saturate any surface drying that occurs today, resetting the drying clock entirely.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Great Wanney until there have been at least 2–3 consecutive fully dry days with humidity below 75% and temperatures above 12°C.
- Check the approach moorland as a proxy: if the walk-in is boggy and the crag base soil is damp, the sandstone is certainly still wet internally.
- Monitor the forecast beyond June 13 — the first realistic window for acceptable conditions would be June 15 or later if the rain stops and wind remains strong.
Do Not Climb
95%
10 days ago
Great Wanney has received nearly 36mm of rain over the past week, including significant falls on June 1–4, with further light rain today and no meaningful dry spell in between. The rock will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying, and the forecast shows continued rain for at least the next five days — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing on Fell Sandstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The long dry spell from May 10–29 will have left the rock in excellent baseline condition before this wet period, but the cumulative 36mm since May 30 — with no consecutive dry days — has undone that entirely.
- Great Wanney's exposed moorland setting and S/SW aspect will aid drying once a sustained dry window arrives, but the persistent high humidity (averaging 87% over the last week) is severely limiting evaporation rates.
- The boggy walk-in approach is a useful field indicator: if the moorland is waterlogged (which it almost certainly is after this week), the crag base will be damp and internal rock moisture should be assumed.
- At 280m altitude with temperatures averaging only 11.5°C, drying rates are slower than lowland crags despite the exposed aspect — expect at least 72+ hours of genuinely dry weather needed before conditions recover.
Warnings
3
- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage and route damage.
- The surface may appear dry between showers but internal saturation from 36mm of recent rain makes the rock structurally compromised.
- The forecast shows no dry window in the next 5 days; do not plan a visit until a sustained dry period is confirmed.
Reasoning
The rock has received ~36mm of rain over the past 8 days with no consecutive dry days, meaning internal saturation is likely well above the critical 1% threshold at which significant strength loss begins.
Despite the exposed S/SW aspect and moderate winds (18–29 km/h), persistent humidity above 85% and continuous light-to-moderate rainfall have prevented any meaningful drying cycle from starting.
With prolonged wetting and high internal moisture, Fell Sandstone's iron oxide holds are at serious risk of breakage — climbing now could cause permanent, irreversible damage to routes.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this unsettled Atlantic pattern with below-average temperatures (~11.5°C vs typical ~16°C) is prolonging moisture retention and suppressing drying.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 36mm in the past 7 days across multiple events (June 1–4 alone contributed 32mm), with no dry spell long enough to begin meaningful drying.
Zero consecutive dry days to date — the rock has had no opportunity to begin the 48–72+ hour drying window required after heavy rain on porous sandstone.
Average humidity of 87% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, even with the site's exposed aspect and moderate wind.
Temperatures averaging 11.5°C are well below June norms for this region, further slowing evaporation and drying rates.
The exposed moorland setting with SW-facing rock and sustained winds of 17–29 km/h will accelerate drying once a dry window finally arrives.
The five-day forecast shows rain every day (2.5–7.9mm), meaning the drying clock cannot even begin to start.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Great Wanney until a sustained dry spell of at least 72 hours with low humidity materialises — the earliest realistic opportunity appears to be June 13 or later.
- Check the moorland and crag base on arrival: if the ground is boggy or the rock base is damp, assume the rock is still saturated internally regardless of surface appearance.
- Consider non-porous alternatives in the region (e.g. Whinstone crags like Crag Lough or Peel Crag on the Whin Sill) during this prolonged wet spell.
Do Not Climb
95%
11 days ago
Great Wanney has received nearly 38mm of rain over the past week, including heavy falls on June 1–4 and further rain today (5.6mm), with zero consecutive dry days. The Fell Sandstone will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying, and the forecast shows continued rain through at least June 11 — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The 10–20m escarpment means lower sections will hold moisture longest as water drains downward through the porous sandstone, and base areas may seep for days after this volume of rain.
- The boggy moorland approach and surrounding saturated ground at 280m altitude indicate the local water table is high, contributing to prolonged moisture retention in the crag.
- Despite the exposed SW aspect aiding drying in theory, average humidity of 86% over the last week and persistent cloud cover severely limit evaporative drying potential.
- The extended wet spell (nearly 40mm in 7 days) following an otherwise dry May means the rock has transitioned from well-dried to deeply saturated — internal drying will take significantly longer than after an isolated shower.
Warnings
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- Fell Sandstone loses up to 50% of its compressive strength when wet — climbing now risks permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage.
- The rock surface may appear to dry between showers but the interior will remain deeply saturated after this volume of rain; do not be deceived by a dry-looking surface.
- The boggy moorland approach will be very wet and potentially hazardous underfoot after prolonged rain.
Reasoning
With 37.7mm of rain in the last 7 days — including 10.2mm on June 3, 7.4mm on June 4, and 5.6mm today — the Fell Sandstone will be deeply saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold where significant weakening begins.
Zero consecutive dry days, average humidity of 86%, and temperatures around 12–13°C mean there has been effectively no meaningful drying; even the SW aspect and moderate wind cannot overcome persistent re-wetting and near-saturated air.
At this saturation level the sandstone will have lost 30–50% of its compressive strength, and the iron oxide cemented holds that define many routes are at serious risk of breakage — climbing now risks permanent, irreversible damage to this spectacular crag.
Early June should be improving but this unsettled Atlantic pattern has delivered a week of rain with more forecast; temperatures at 280m are cool (7–13°C) which further slows drying.
Contributing Factors
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37.7mm in the last 7 days with multiple heavy days (9.9mm, 10.2mm, 7.4mm) has deeply saturated the porous Fell Sandstone.
5.6mm falling today means the drying clock has not even started, and the rock surface is actively wet.
Average humidity of 86% over the past week with 91% today severely limits evaporative drying from the rock surface.
Average temperature of only 11.6°C at 280m altitude slows the drying process considerably compared to warmer lowland conditions.
The exposed moorland setting and SW-facing aspect provide good wind exposure and solar radiation, which will aid drying once rain stops.
The forecast shows rain on every day from June 7–11 (totalling ~19.9mm), preventing any meaningful drying window from developing.
Recommendations
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- Do not climb at Great Wanney until at least 48–72 hours of completely dry weather with low humidity follow the end of this wet spell — realistically no earlier than mid-June at the earliest.
- Check the ground at the crag base before any future visit: if the soil and sand are damp, the rock is still saturated internally regardless of surface appearance.
- Consider visiting a non-porous alternative such as a whinstone crag in the interim if conditions allow, but check local access and ethics.
Climbing Outlook