Great Wanney has experienced a prolonged wet spell with 56.5mm over 28 days and frequent rain over the last two weeks, with no meaningful dry window to allow internal drying. The rock will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying, and further rain is forecast every day this week — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing on this porous Fell Sandstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
How accurate is this verdict?
Climbing Outlook
Site Details
Probably the most spectacular sandstone crag in Northumberland, located on high open moorland between Knowesgate and East Woodburn in the Ridsdale area. The escarpment stands 10–20m tall with around 87 routes spanning VDiff to E8 — many test their grade, with the VDiffs and Severes notably serious. Predominantly a trad venue with some bouldering. The exposed moorland setting at around 280m gives the crag a dramatic, remote character with panoramic views across Northumberland. Dries reasonably in a blow but the porous Fell Sandstone must not be climbed when wet. Park at the Fourlaws Forestry Commission gate on the Knowesgate–Ridsdale road; 20–30 min walk-in, boggy in places. CRoW open access land.
- Rock Type
- Sandstone
- Wind Exposure
- Exposed
- Altitude
- 280m
- Climbing
- Trad Bouldering
- Aspects
- S SW
- Problems
- 20
- Routes
- 87
- Boulder Grades
- Font 4 – Font 7a
- Trad Grades
- VDiff – E8
- Access
- CRoW Open Access
- Approach
- 25 min
Site Data
- Name
- Great Wanney
- County
- Northumberland
- Rock Type
- Sandstone
- Climbing Types
- Trad, Bouldering
- Aspects
- S, SW
- Wind Exposure
- Exposed
- Altitude
- 280m
- Latitude
- 55.144
- Longitude
- -2.109
- OS Grid Ref
- —
- Access Type
- CRoW Open Access
- Approach Time
- 25 min
- Problem Count
- 20
- Route Count
- 87
- Boulder Grades
- Font 4 – Font 7a
- Trad Grades
- VDiff – E8
- Tidal
- No
- Parking Notes
- Fourlaws Forestry Commission gate on the Knowesgate-Ridsdale road. 20-30 min walk-in, boggy in places.
- Condition Notes
- —
- ID
- b524c319-45d6-4c41-bb17-257f66fa6a71
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