Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Despite one dry day today following yesterday's 7.8mm of rain, the preceding period has been extremely wet (270.9mm in 28 days, 50.1mm in the last 7 days alone) and humidity remains high. Polished slate at Buckstone How will be treacherously greasy with residual surface moisture and seepage from saturated surrounding ground — we recommend waiting for a longer dry spell.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate surfaces lose friction dramatically with even light moisture, and the layered ledges retain drainage water longer than the exposed face suggests.
- The crag sits at 360m on Honister Pass where cloud base frequently drops below the crag in these conditions, depositing condensation directly onto the rock even without rainfall.
- The south/south-west aspect provides good solar exposure today, but at this altitude in early April the sun angle is still relatively low and drying power is limited compared to summer months.
- The surrounding hillside is heavily saturated after 270mm in 28 days, and ground seepage across slate ledges and layered features may persist well beyond surface drying.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate at Buckstone How becomes extremely slippery with even trace moisture — falls on greasy slate are a real risk.
- The surrounding ground is heavily saturated after 270mm in 28 days; seepage across ledges and layered features may persist despite apparent surface drying.
Reasoning
Yesterday saw 7.8mm of rain ending in the morning, with only ~18 hours of drying since; combined with 79% humidity today and saturated ground from an extremely wet month, surface moisture is very likely still present on polished slate.
The south-facing aspect and moderate 18.7 km/h wind today help, but a single dry day at 360m altitude with 79% humidity is insufficient to dry polished slate ledges after the sustained deluge of recent weeks.
Slate is non-porous so structural damage is not a concern, but the extreme slipperiness of polished quarried slate when damp poses a serious safety risk to climbers.
Early April at 360m altitude means limited solar heating, short effective drying windows, and the crag may still be in cloud or receiving hill fog — conditions typical of spring in the Lake District fells.
Contributing Factors
7
7.8mm fell yesterday (12th), 32.8mm on the 11th, and 270.9mm over 28 days — the ground and rock environment are heavily saturated.
Just one dry day (today) since yesterday's rain is far too little drying time for polished slate at altitude to become safe for climbing.
Today's humidity of 79% and the 7-day average of 79% limit evaporation and may allow condensation to form on cold slate surfaces.
The S/SW aspect and exposed hillside position provide the best available drying conditions, with direct solar radiation and wind access.
An 18.7 km/h southerly wind helps strip surface moisture, though this is less effective than the 35+ km/h gusts of recent days.
Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces become extremely greasy with even trace moisture, making any residual dampness a serious safety concern.
At 360m, temperatures are lower and cloud contact is more frequent, significantly reducing effective drying time compared to valley crags.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with lower humidity before attempting to climb on polished slate at this altitude.
- If visiting the Honister area today, consider walking up to visually inspect the rock but do not commit to climbing if any dampness or greasiness is detected.
- Check the BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions at Buckstone How — peregrine and raven nesting season is well underway in April.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
90%
2 days ago
Buckstone How is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today has seen 5.9mm of rain on top of 32.8mm yesterday and persistent wet weather over the past two weeks, with zero consecutive dry days. Polished slate surfaces will be extremely greasy and dangerous.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The polished quarried slate at Buckstone How becomes exceptionally slippery with even trace moisture — today's active rainfall makes friction negligible on slab and face routes.
- Layered ledges and horizontal breaks on Skiddaw Slate trap water and drain slowly, meaning even after rain stops the rock retains surface moisture longer than the exposed position might suggest.
- At 360m on the Honister Pass, the crag is likely in or near cloud base today given 88% humidity and SW winds — condensation alone can keep surfaces damp even between showers.
- The massive 86.7mm event on March 24th and ongoing wet pattern (292mm in 28 days) means seepage from the hillside above may be feeding moisture onto the crag from behind the rock layers.
Warnings
3
- Polished slate at Buckstone How is extremely dangerous when wet — friction loss is severe and falls are likely even on easier-graded routes.
- Persistent heavy rainfall over the past month may cause waterlogged hillside conditions and unexpected seepage across the crag face.
- At 360m in current conditions the crag may be in cloud with near-zero visibility and wind chill — be prepared for full hill weather.
Reasoning
The rock is actively wet today with 5.9mm precipitation, following 32.8mm yesterday and 48.2mm in the last 7 days — surfaces will be saturated with standing water on ledges and seepage through layered joints.
Despite the exposed SW aspect and moderate winds (35.6 km/h), there has been zero consecutive dry days and today's ongoing rain means no meaningful drying has occurred since the last significant rainfall.
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the extreme greasiness of polished Skiddaw Slate when damp creates serious slip and fall risk.
Early April at 360m altitude means limited solar intensity for drying, temperatures are modest (7.4°C max today), and the crag is in its spring wet season with frequent frontal systems crossing Honister Pass.
Contributing Factors
7
5.9mm of precipitation today means the rock is actively wet with no opportunity to dry.
32.8mm fell yesterday and 48.2mm over the past week, ensuring thorough saturation of all surfaces, ledges, and seepage lines.
There has not been a single fully dry day since the last significant rain, preventing any meaningful drying cycle.
88% humidity today at 360m altitude likely means the crag is near or in cloud, preventing evaporative drying.
The 35.6 km/h SW winds would normally aid drying but are currently driving moisture-laden air directly onto the south-facing crag.
Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces lose friction dramatically when damp, making even moderate routes extremely hazardous.
292mm of rain in 28 days indicates a deeply saturated hillside, with potential for persistent seepage through the layered slate structure.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Buckstone How today — the rock is actively wet and polished slate will be dangerously slippery.
- Wait for at least two consecutive dry days with moderate wind before visiting; even then, check ledges and lower-angle sections carefully for residual moisture.
- If you are in the area and keen to climb, consider a lower-altitude sheltered venue with steeper rock that sheds water more readily, but check conditions carefully at any crag given the recent rainfall.
Do Not Climb
92%
3 days ago
Buckstone How is currently receiving heavy rain today (27.7mm) following an extremely wet period — nearly 284mm in the last 28 days. The polished slate surfaces will be saturated with standing water and extremely greasy, making climbing dangerous.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes treacherously greasy even with light moisture — today's 27.7mm deluge will leave surfaces slick and dangerous despite the exposed position.
- The layered ledge structure at this crag traps water between slate beds, meaning surface drainage lags behind what the wind exposure alone would suggest.
- The south/south-west aspect and exposed Honister Pass position do aid drying, but at 360m altitude with temperatures around 5–6°C, evaporation rates are low in early April.
- The recent pattern shows relentless wet weather since late March — 86.7mm on March 24th alone — meaning seepage lines and drainage channels across the crag will be actively running.
Warnings
3
- Polished slate at Buckstone How is extremely dangerous when wet — even residual dampness creates near-zero friction on slab routes.
- Active seepage from the prolonged wet spell may persist for days even after rain stops, particularly on lower tiers and near drainage lines.
- At 360m with temperatures near freezing overnight, ice may form on wet rock surfaces in early morning — check conditions if visiting at dawn.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet from today's 27.7mm of rain, following 39.7mm in the last week and an extraordinary 283.8mm over 28 days — the crag will have standing water, active seepage, and thoroughly wet surfaces.
Despite strong southerly winds today (41.8 km/h), there has been zero consecutive dry days and temperatures are only ~5.6°C at 360m, so no meaningful drying has occurred or can occur today.
Slate is non-porous so there is no structural damage risk, but the extreme slipperiness of polished quarried slate when wet presents a serious fall hazard.
Early April at 360m altitude means cool temperatures, limited solar intensity, and the tail end of the wet Lake District winter — conditions are slow to improve and the prolonged wet spell has saturated the hillside.
Contributing Factors
6
27.7mm of precipitation today means the crag is actively wet with no drying window.
283.8mm over 28 days with only brief dry spells means the hillside is saturated and seepage lines will be running.
Skiddaw Slate at Buckstone How is notably polished and loses friction dramatically when even lightly damp, let alone soaked.
Southerly winds at 41.8 km/h across the exposed pass will help strip surface moisture once rain stops, but cannot overcome active precipitation.
At 5.6°C and 360m, evaporation rates are minimal and drying will be very slow even when rain ceases.
Humidity at 81% today and forecast to remain 83–94% through the week limits evaporative drying.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Buckstone How today — the crag is actively wet and polished slate in these conditions is dangerously slippery.
- The best window in the coming days would be April 13th afternoon if the forecast holds, but check conditions on arrival as slate must be visibly dry before committing.
- Consider lower-altitude, sheltered limestone venues (e.g. Chapel Head Scar) if you need a climbing fix this week — slate quarry crags in the Lakes will be unreliable throughout.
Do Not Climb
70%
4 days ago
Buckstone How received 8.3mm of rain yesterday and 1.0mm today, following an exceptionally wet period (268mm in 28 days), and with 27mm of heavy rain forecast tomorrow. Although the exposed position and SW winds will help clear surface water, polished slate at this altitude is likely still damp and greasy — conditions are not suitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The polished quarried slate surfaces at Buckstone How become treacherously greasy with even a thin film of moisture, and the layered ledges hold standing water longer than the steep faces.
- At 360m on Honister Pass, the crag is frequently in cloud during unsettled spells — even without rain, mist and condensation can coat the rock and maintain surface moisture.
- The exposed pass position channels strong SW winds which aid drying considerably, but today's 1mm precipitation and yesterday's 8.3mm mean surfaces have not had adequate time to dry.
- The south/south-west aspect is beneficial for solar drying, but early April sun angles at this latitude and altitude provide limited heating, especially with the cool 6.9°C temperatures today.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate at Buckstone How can feel deceptively dry to the touch while still being dangerously greasy — do not rely on visual assessment alone.
- Overnight temperatures near or below freezing at 360m combined with wet rock create a risk of verglas or icy surfaces in early morning.
Reasoning
With 1.0mm of rain today on top of 8.3mm yesterday and 268mm over 28 days, the rock surfaces and layered ledges are almost certainly still holding surface moisture despite the non-porous nature of slate.
Strong SW winds at 36 km/h today on this exposed south-facing crag will promote surface drying, but with zero consecutive dry days and only a few hours of potential drying, the polished slate will not have shed all moisture — particularly on ledges and in layered features.
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern; however, freeze-thaw at this altitude with overnight lows near 0°C could affect loose flakes over time.
Early April at 360m means limited solar heating, short effective drying windows, and frequent cloud cover — spring conditions in the Lake District are highly variable and the recent sustained wet spell is typical of the season.
Contributing Factors
8
1.0mm of precipitation today means the rock has been wetted within the last few hours, leaving surface moisture on the polished slate.
8.3mm fell on April 9th with 94% humidity, saturating the surface and filling ledge drainage channels.
268mm over 28 days means the surrounding ground, drainage lines, and seepage areas are thoroughly saturated, prolonging any residual moisture on the crag.
There have been zero full dry days leading into today, meaning no sustained drying window has occurred since the last significant rain.
36 km/h SW winds on this fully exposed pass will accelerate surface evaporation significantly once precipitation stops.
The south-facing aspect receives the best available solar radiation for drying, though early April sun at 360m provides only moderate heating.
Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces lose friction dramatically when even lightly damp, making climbing dangerous well before the rock looks visibly wet.
27mm of rain is forecast for April 11th, which will thoroughly re-wet the crag and reset any drying progress.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for conditions to improve — the forecast shows a potential dry window on April 14th after the rain clears, which would be the earliest realistic opportunity.
- If visiting the area, consider low-level sheltered alternatives or indoor climbing until the wet spell passes.
- When conditions do improve, test friction carefully on lower-angle holds before committing to harder moves on the polished slate.
Do Not Climb
70%
5 days ago
Buckstone How has received 3.9mm of rain today following a very wet recent period (nearly 300mm in 28 days), and the polished slate surfaces will be greasy and dangerous. Although three dry days (Apr 6–8) provided some drying, today's rain and near-saturated overnight humidity have re-wet surfaces, making climbing inadvisable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The polished Skiddaw Slate at Buckstone How becomes extremely slippery with even trace moisture — today's 3.9mm rain will make friction negligible on slab and lower-angle routes.
- The layered ledge structure traps water and slows surface drainage, meaning even after rain stops, pooled moisture lingers on horizontal features and at the base of cracks.
- The exposed Honister Pass position means strong westerly winds (27.7 km/h today) aid surface drying quickly once rain ceases, but overnight humidity reached 99% suggesting condensation and persistent dampness this morning.
- At 360m altitude in early April, cloud can envelop the crag frequently — 100% cloud cover was recorded through much of last night and this morning, which further inhibits drying.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate at Buckstone How is treacherously slippery when damp — even a thin film of moisture can cause unexpected foot slips on slab terrain.
- The extremely wet recent period (298mm in 28 days) means seepage from saturated ground above the crag may persist even after surface rock appears dry.
Reasoning
Today's 3.9mm of rain on top of overnight humidity reaching 99% means the slate surfaces are currently wet, and the polished quarried slate will be extremely greasy.
Three genuinely dry days (Apr 6–8) with southerly aspect and moderate wind would have dried surface moisture from the heavy Apr 3–5 rain, but today's fresh precipitation has re-wetted surfaces and negated that progress.
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage is not a concern — the risk is purely frictional and safety-related.
Early April at 360m altitude means temperatures are cool (max ~10°C today), days are lengthening but solar angle is still modest, and the Lake District is in its spring wet phase with very high cumulative rainfall.
Contributing Factors
7
3.9mm of rain today has re-wetted the slate surfaces, making the polished rock extremely greasy.
Humidity rose to 99% overnight with 100% cloud cover, indicating condensation and persistent surface moisture on the rock.
Three consecutive dry days with warm temperatures (up to 15.7°C) and southerly aspect had dried the crag well before today's rain.
298mm of rain in the last 28 days means the surrounding ground is saturated, and seepage from above and drainage across the crag face is likely.
Westerly winds at 27.7 km/h will help dry surfaces once rain ceases, but are insufficient to overcome current active moisture.
Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate loses friction dramatically with even light moisture, making damp conditions a serious safety hazard.
Max temperature of ~10°C today limits evaporative drying capacity compared to summer conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the slate will be greasy from today's rain and overnight condensation, posing a significant slip risk.
- If tomorrow (Apr 10) sees only the forecast trace of rain (0.4mm) and strong southerly winds materialise, an afternoon visit to assess conditions visually could be worthwhile — but touch-test the rock before committing.
- Wait for the dry spell forecast from Apr 13 onwards for the best chance of genuinely safe conditions on the polished slate.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
6 days ago
After a very wet recent period (308mm in 28 days), Buckstone How has had roughly 36 hours of dry weather with good winds and warm temperatures, which should have dried the exposed slate surfaces. However, today's trace precipitation (0.2mm) and rising humidity (80%) introduce uncertainty, and the layered ledges may still hold residual seepage from the enormous rainfall on 3rd April (39.6mm) and subsequent wet days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Buckstone How's exposed position on Honister Pass means strong winds rapidly strip surface moisture from the slate, but at 360m the crag is frequently in cloud, which can deposit invisible moisture on polished surfaces.
- The layered slate structure creates horizontal ledges and drainage channels that can hold standing water long after the main faces have dried, particularly after the extremely wet spell (86.7mm on 24th March, 39.6mm on 3rd April).
- The south/south-west aspect has been receiving decent spring solar radiation during the dry window on 6th–7th April, which is the primary drying driver at this time of year.
- Polished quarried slate at Buckstone How loses virtually all friction with even a thin film of moisture — the slab routes are especially treacherous and should be avoided unless visibly bone-dry.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate becomes extremely greasy with even a thin film of moisture — a surface that looks dry can still be dangerously slippery.
- Rain is forecast from tomorrow through to at least the 13th April; conditions will deteriorate significantly.
Reasoning
The rock surface has had about 36 hours of dry, breezy conditions following a prolonged wet spell, but today's 0.2mm trace rain and 80% humidity suggest the crag may not be fully dry, and seepage from layered ledges could persist.
The south-facing aspect and moderate winds (20–30 km/h) over the last two days provided reasonable drying conditions, but the sheer volume of recent rainfall (57.7mm in 7 days, 308mm in 28 days) means residual moisture in cracks and ledges is likely.
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern — the risk is purely friction-related.
Early April at 360m altitude means limited solar intensity, cool overnight temperatures (down to 1°C), and the possibility of cloud enveloping the crag, all of which slow drying and can deposit condensation on polished slate.
Contributing Factors
6
Two fully dry days (6th–7th April) with warm temperatures up to 15.7°C and moderate wind have allowed significant surface drying on this exposed, south-facing crag.
308mm over 28 days including 39.6mm on 3rd April and 86.7mm on 24th March represents an exceptionally saturated landscape with likely residual seepage on layered ledges.
0.2mm recorded today with humidity at 80% means surfaces may have picked up a light film of moisture, which is enough to make polished slate dangerously slippery.
Buckstone How's exposed position on Honister Pass means wind-driven drying is effective, with 20–30 km/h winds over recent days stripping surface water rapidly.
At 360m the crag is prone to being enveloped in cloud, which can deposit invisible moisture on the rock surface even without measurable rainfall.
6.8mm forecast for tomorrow (9th April) followed by further rain on subsequent days means the current dry window is closing rapidly.
Recommendations
3
- Visit today if possible — the dry window is closing, but visually inspect all surfaces for moisture before committing, especially polished slab routes.
- Avoid slab climbs entirely; focus on steeper routes with positive edges where residual moisture is less critical to friction.
- Carry a towel and check conditions on arrival — if any surface sheen is visible on the slate, do not climb.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
8 days ago
After a very wet period, today is the first fully dry day with improving conditions — south-facing aspect, dropping humidity (75%), and moderate breeze should help surface drying. However, only one dry day following 2.5mm yesterday and significant recent rainfall means polished slate surfaces may still hold residual moisture, particularly on ledges and in sheltered spots.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Buckstone How's polished quarried slate becomes extremely greasy with even trace moisture — the layered ledges can trap water and take longer to drain than the steep faces.
- The exposed Honister Pass position and south/south-west aspect are working in the crag's favour today, with a southerly breeze and good solar angle accelerating surface evaporation.
- At 360m altitude, overnight temperatures dropped near freezing (2.4°C min) which may have caused light condensation or frost on rock surfaces that needs time to burn off this morning.
- Bird nesting restrictions may apply at nearby crags — check BMC RAD for current seasonal closures in the Honister/Buttermere area before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate can feel deceptively dry on the surface while still being dangerously slippery — test friction carefully before committing to any moves.
- The extremely wet preceding weeks (345mm in 28 days) mean seepage and drainage from above could persist even on a dry day.
Reasoning
The rock received 2.5mm of rain yesterday and scattered light showers through the early hours of April 5th, with only about 18 hours of truly dry weather since; surface moisture is likely still present in sheltered spots and on horizontal ledges despite the non-porous nature of slate.
The south-facing aspect and moderate southerly wind (19 km/h) today, combined with dropping humidity (75%) and a forecast high of 10.4°C, should provide reasonable drying through the day — but one dry day is marginal after the persistently wet spell (66mm in the last week alone).
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold breakage or rock damage concern — the risk is purely friction-related.
Early April at 360m altitude means short effective drying windows, cool overnight temperatures risking condensation, and the lingering effects of a very wet late-winter/early-spring period across the Lake District.
Contributing Factors
7
66mm fell in the last 7 days including 39.6mm on April 3rd alone, saturating the surrounding ground and leaving residual surface water on ledges and in cracks.
Today is forecast completely dry (0.0mm) with humidity dropping to 75%, providing the first proper drying window in over a week.
The S/SW aspect and exposed hilltop position maximise solar radiation and wind exposure, giving Buckstone How above-average drying speed for a Lake District crag.
Quarried and polished slate surfaces lose friction dramatically with even trace moisture, making routes dangerously slippery before the rock is fully dry.
A 19 km/h southerly breeze and 10.4°C maximum provide adequate but not exceptional evaporative drying conditions.
The 7-day average humidity of 87% and persistently damp conditions mean the surrounding environment is heavily moisture-laden, slowing surface drying.
The 2.4°C overnight minimum at 360m altitude may have produced light frost or condensation on rock surfaces, requiring morning sun to clear.
Recommendations
3
- Visit in the afternoon rather than morning to allow maximum drying time from today's sun and breeze — surfaces may still be damp early in the day.
- Physically touch and test the rock before committing to any route; if slate feels at all slick or greasy underfoot, back off and wait.
- Focus on steeper, well-drained faces if conditions look borderline — avoid slabs and horizontal ledge systems which will retain moisture longest.
Do Not Climb
30%
9 days ago
Buckstone How has been saturated by an extremely wet period — nearly 350mm in the last 28 days — with significant rain as recently as yesterday (39.6mm on Apr 3, 8.9mm on Apr 4) and light rain today. Despite the strong winds aiding surface drying, the polished slate will almost certainly still be greasy; we recommend waiting for the drier spell forecast from tomorrow.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The polished quarried slate at Buckstone How loses friction dramatically with even a thin film of moisture — surface-dry is not the same as friction-ready on this rock.
- Layered ledges and horizontal breaks trap water and drain slowly, meaning seepage and puddles can persist even when the main face appears dry.
- The exposed Honister Pass position generates strong winds that strip surface water quickly, but at 360m altitude, cloud and mist can re-wet the rock without registering as rainfall.
- The south/south-west aspect will benefit from improving solar angles in early April, but low temperatures (averaging 5.3°C this week) limit evaporation rates significantly.
Warnings
2
- Polished slate at Buckstone How can appear surface-dry while retaining an invisible greasy film — do not trust visual dryness alone.
- Overnight temperatures near freezing at 360m mean any residual moisture could form verglas or ice on ledges in early morning.
Reasoning
With 68.5mm in the last 7 days including 39.6mm just two days ago, 8.9mm yesterday, and 1.8mm today, the rock surface is almost certainly still damp or at minimum retaining a greasy film on the polished slate.
Today's strong westerly winds (48 km/h) will help strip surface water, but with only a few hours of drying since this morning's light rain and very recent heavy falls, the slate will not have had adequate time to reach a friction-safe state.
Slate is non-porous and not at risk of structural damage from moisture, but freeze-thaw at this altitude with overnight temperatures near freezing could loosen flakes on the layered edges over time.
Early April at 360m is still firmly in the unreliable spring window — low temperatures, high humidity (88% average), and persistent frontal systems from the Atlantic limit effective drying between rain events.
Contributing Factors
6
39.6mm fell on April 3rd and 8.9mm on April 4th, with 1.8mm today — the crag has had virtually no meaningful drying window.
346.6mm over 28 days represents a thoroughly waterlogged landscape with persistent runoff, seepage, and saturated ground surrounding the crag.
48 km/h westerly winds on the exposed Honister pass position will actively strip surface moisture from the south-facing slate.
Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces become extremely greasy with even trace moisture, making friction-dependent moves genuinely dangerous.
Average humidity of 88% and temperatures around 4°C today severely limit evaporation despite the wind, and cloud at 360m may re-wet surfaces.
Tomorrow (Apr 6) is forecast dry with 0mm rain, lower humidity (71%), and a southerly breeze — a genuine drying window is opening.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until at least tomorrow afternoon (April 6th) after a full dry day with lower humidity and southerly sun to allow the polished slate to properly dry.
- If visiting tomorrow or Tuesday, physically test friction on lower, easily accessible holds before committing to anything above safe ground — polished slate can feel dry but still be greasy.
- Check the BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions at Buckstone How, as peregrine and raven nesting season is well underway in April.
Do Not Climb
90%
10 days ago
Buckstone How is currently wet and unsafe for climbing. Today has seen 6.2mm of rain on top of an extremely wet period (89mm in the last 7 days, 342mm in 28 days), and the polished slate surfaces will be dangerously greasy. Even with strong winds, the rock needs a sustained dry spell to shed surface moisture from its layered ledges.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Buckstone How's polished Skiddaw Slate becomes extremely slippery with even light moisture — after today's rain and prolonged wet weather, friction will be negligible on slab and face routes.
- The layered ledge structure traps water and slows drainage despite the exposed position, meaning pooled moisture persists longer than on smooth vertical faces.
- The exposed Honister Pass position and today's strong 55 km/h SW winds will help strip surface water, but humidity at 89% significantly limits evaporative drying.
- At 360m altitude in early April, overnight temperatures near freezing (1.9°C min today) mean any residual moisture could form thin ice films on shaded holds in early morning.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today — polished slate surfaces will be extremely greasy and dangerous after persistent heavy rain.
- Overnight frost at 360m may create thin ice films on holds; if visiting in coming days, wait until late morning for any ice to melt and surfaces to begin drying.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet — 6.2mm fell today, 39.6mm yesterday, and there have been zero consecutive dry days, with 89mm in the past week leaving all surfaces saturated with standing and running water.
Despite very strong SW winds (55 km/h) and a south-facing aspect, the 89% humidity severely limits evaporative drying, and the rock has had no meaningful dry window since the brief spell of March 18–23.
Slate is non-porous and does not suffer structural damage when wet, but freeze-thaw cycles at this altitude in early spring could affect loose flakes on the layered rock.
Early April at 360m altitude brings low temperatures, high humidity, short drying windows, and the tail end of winter weather patterns — this is not a reliable season for slate friction climbing.
Contributing Factors
8
88.7mm in the last 7 days and 342mm over 28 days have kept the crag in a persistently saturated state with no meaningful drying window.
6.2mm of precipitation today means the rock is actively wet right now.
Average humidity of 90% over the past week and 89% today severely inhibits evaporative drying even with strong winds.
55 km/h SW winds today and consistent strong winds this week help strip surface water from the exposed crag faster than sheltered venues.
The S/SW aspect receives good solar radiation when skies clear, which will aid drying in the forecast dry window from April 6.
Quarried and polished slate surfaces lose virtually all friction when damp, making even lightly moist routes dangerously slippery.
At 360m with overnight lows near freezing, drying is slow and residual moisture may form ice films on shaded holds in early morning.
There has not been a single fully dry day in the recent record since March 23, giving the crag no opportunity to dry out.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for the forecast dry window of April 6–7 before considering a visit, and even then verify conditions on arrival as the crag needs time to shed accumulated moisture.
- If visiting on April 7 or later, focus on steeper routes with positive edges where residual moisture drains more effectively — avoid slabs entirely until a prolonged dry spell.
- Check the BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions at Buckstone How before planning a visit, as the peregrine nesting season is now active.
Do Not Climb
92%
11 days ago
Buckstone How is currently receiving heavy rain today (31.8mm) following an extremely wet period — 76.7mm in the last 7 days and over 335mm in the last 28 days. The polished slate surfaces will be dangerously greasy and conditions are wholly unsuitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The quarried and polished slate at Buckstone How becomes exceptionally greasy even with light moisture — today's 31.8mm of rain makes friction negligible on slab and lower-angle terrain.
- The layered ledge structure traps standing water and slows surface drainage, meaning even after rain stops, pooled moisture persists on horizontal features and in cracks between slate layers.
- The exposed Honister Pass position means strong winds will assist drying once rain ceases, but at 360m altitude with current temperatures around 3–8°C and high humidity (93%), evaporation rates remain very low.
- Despite a brief dry window from March 18–23, the subsequent return to persistent rain (86.7mm on March 24 alone, plus frequent further rainfall) has left the entire hillside saturated, with likely seepage from the ground above the crag.
Warnings
3
- Active heavy rain today — polished slate will be extremely greasy and any climbing attempt poses serious slip and fall risk.
- The hillside is deeply saturated after 335mm in 28 days; seepage and runoff from above the crag are likely even after surface rain stops.
- Overnight lows near or below freezing at 360m — beware of verglas or icy patches on early morning approaches and on shaded rock faces.
Reasoning
The rock is currently soaking wet from today's 31.8mm of rain on top of an already saturated period, with zero consecutive dry days and 93% humidity.
Despite the south/south-west aspect and exposed position, the crag has had no meaningful drying window — even the brief dry spell in mid-March was negated by 86.7mm on March 24 and continued frequent rainfall since.
Slate is non-porous and not at risk of structural damage from moisture, but at 360m with overnight lows near freezing, minor freeze-thaw spalling of loose flakes is possible on exposed edges.
Early April in the Lake District at 360m is still firmly in the wet season; low sun angles and cool temperatures severely limit drying capacity, and the ground is thoroughly saturated from a very wet March.
Contributing Factors
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31.8mm of precipitation today with 93% humidity means the rock is thoroughly wet right now.
76.7mm in the last 7 days and 335mm over 28 days has left the hillside completely saturated with no effective drying window.
There have been no consecutive dry days leading into today, so the rock has had no opportunity to shed surface moisture.
Buckstone How's polished slate surfaces lose virtually all friction when wet, making even moderate-angle climbing extremely hazardous.
At 360m with average temperatures of only 5.3°C and 89% average humidity over the past week, evaporation is minimal.
Strong winds (28–53 km/h forecast) will assist surface drying once rain stops, but cannot overcome current saturation.
The south/SW aspect receives reasonable solar radiation in early April, aiding drying during any dry spells ahead.
Recommendations
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- Do not climb today — the rock is actively wet and dangerously slippery.
- The earliest potentially viable window is April 6–7, after two days of minimal precipitation and strong drying winds; check conditions on arrival and test friction carefully before committing.
- Check BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions at Buckstone How before visiting — peregrine and raven nesting season is underway.
Climbing Outlook