Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Recent rain (11.6mm on Aug 20, plus smaller amounts on Aug 16–19 and Aug 21) followed by only four dry days before today's light drizzle, combined with persistently high humidity (~80%+) and the sheltered, enclosed gorge environment, means Trollers Gill is likely still holding residual moisture and seepage. A massive 46.7mm of rain is forecast over the next five days, making conditions progressively worse.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge dramatically limits airflow and sun penetration, meaning drying times are much longer than at open limestone crags — seepage can persist for days after heavy rain.
- The 11.6mm deluge on Aug 20 likely triggered seepage lines on the gorge walls that may not have fully dried given only four dry days in a sheltered setting with humidity consistently above 75%.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and 100% cloud cover today eliminates even that limited solar drying benefit.
- With 46.7mm of rain forecast from tomorrow through Aug 31, conditions will deteriorate significantly and the gorge floor will become very wet — plan visits for well after this wet spell passes.
Warnings
2
- Limestone in the gorge will be extremely greasy during and after this wet spell — high risk of slipping on the technical, sustained routes.
- The gorge floor may become waterlogged and stream levels could rise after 24.5mm of rain tomorrow; be aware of flash flood risk in enclosed gorges.
Reasoning
The gorge received significant rain recently (11.6mm on Aug 20, ~22.5mm over Aug 16–21), and only four truly dry days (Aug 22–25) have elapsed before today's light drizzle — insufficient for a sheltered enclosed gorge to fully dry, especially with average humidity at 81%.
The sheltered gorge position blocks wind penetration and the east aspect with 100% cloud cover today provides negligible solar drying, so surface and pocket moisture will persist far longer than at an open crag.
Limestone does not suffer structural damage from moisture, but greasy surfaces and water-filled pockets pose a serious slip hazard on the technical, sustained routes typical of this venue.
Late August should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled spell with high humidity and heavy forecast rain is well below seasonal best — conditions are more akin to an autumn pattern.
Contributing Factors
6
11.6mm fell on Aug 20 with a further 1.5mm on Aug 21 and cumulative 22.5mm over the Aug 16–21 period, saturating the gorge.
Only four dry days (Aug 22–25) in a sheltered gorge with high humidity is marginal for full drying of seepage lines and pockets.
Average humidity over the last 7 days is 81% with today reaching 85%, keeping limestone surfaces greasy and retarding evaporation.
Scattered light precipitation (0.5mm total) through the afternoon re-wets surfaces and resets any partial drying progress.
The enclosed gorge traps humid air and blocks wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.
24.5mm forecast for Aug 27 alone, with a further 22mm over Aug 28–30, will thoroughly soak the gorge for the coming week.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Trollers Gill this week — the incoming wet spell (46.7mm forecast) will keep the gorge saturated well into early September.
- If you must climb limestone in the Yorkshire Dales this week, consider a more open, south-facing venue with better drainage and wind exposure on any brief dry window.
- Monitor conditions after the wet spell passes; allow at least 3–4 consecutive dry days with humidity below 75% before returning to this enclosed gorge.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
57 days ago
Three dry days following a wet spell (11.6mm on Aug 20, plus scattered rain Aug 16–21) have allowed some drying, but the enclosed gorge retains moisture longer than open crags and humidity has remained high. Today is the best window before a significant wet spell arrives tomorrow through to Aug 28; conditions should be assessed on arrival, particularly in shaded recesses and pocketed walls.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humid air and limits airflow, meaning seepage lines on the smooth glacially-polished walls can persist 3–4 days after moderate rain even in summer.
- East-facing aspect means morning sun only — the gorge floor and lower walls lose direct sunlight by midday, so the afternoon drying benefit is mainly from ambient warmth and any breeze funnelled through the gill.
- Overhanging lower sections and steeper sport routes will have dried fastest and offer the best friction today; vertical and slabby routes in recessed sections are more likely to remain greasy.
- A major wet spell (50mm+) is forecast from Aug 25–28, which will saturate the gorge thoroughly — today is likely the last viable climbing day for nearly a week.
Warnings
2
- Polished limestone in the gorge becomes extremely slippery when even slightly damp — retreat immediately if holds feel greasy.
- The forecast 50mm+ rain from Aug 25–28 may cause the gill beck to rise significantly; do not enter the gorge during or immediately after heavy rainfall due to flash flood risk in the narrow channel.
Reasoning
The 11.6mm on Aug 20 was the most significant event, followed by 1.5mm on Aug 21, with three full dry days since (Aug 22–24); surface rock on exposed faces should be largely dry but pockets and seepage lines in this enclosed gorge may still hold residual moisture.
Three dry days with moderate temperatures (17–18°C) and humidity dropping to 72% today provide reasonable but not ideal drying for a sheltered east-facing gorge at 300m — the lack of wind penetration into the gill slows evaporation significantly.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage risk is not elevated; the main concern is reduced friction on the polished surfaces.
Mid-to-late August offers adequate daylight and reasonable temperatures, though the recent spell of cooler, unsettled weather has kept average temperatures below seasonal norms, slowing drying.
Contributing Factors
6
No measurable rain since Aug 21 (1.5mm), giving exposed rock surfaces time to dry.
11.6mm fell on Aug 20 and a cumulative 22.5mm from Aug 16–21, which will have saturated the enclosed gorge.
The narrow gill traps moisture and limits wind-assisted drying, extending seepage well beyond what open crags would need.
Humidity falls to 54–58% during the afternoon today, which will aid surface drying and improve friction on exposed walls.
East-facing walls receive direct morning sunshine, helping dry the upper sections before midday.
Over 50mm of rain is forecast from Aug 25–28, making today the last realistic climbing window for approximately a week.
Recommendations
3
- Visit today if possible — afternoon (12:00–17:00) offers the lowest humidity window; prioritise overhanging and steep routes which will have dried fastest.
- Touch-test holds carefully before committing, especially in pockets, grooves, and lower recessed walls where seepage may linger.
- Do not plan to climb at Trollers Gill from Aug 25–29; the gorge will need several dry days after the forecast heavy rain to become climbable again.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
58 days ago
After a wet spell (11.6mm on Aug 20, plus smaller amounts on preceding days), Trollers Gill has had only two full dry days in a sheltered, enclosed gorge that holds moisture. The rock is likely drying but given high recent humidity (86% average over the last week) and the gorge's poor ventilation, some seepage and damp patches are probable — climbers should visually assess conditions on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a moisture trap: poor air circulation and limited sun penetration mean drying takes significantly longer than at open limestone crags, especially after the 22.3mm received in the last 7 days.
- East-facing walls receive only morning sun, and the gorge floor and lower walls may remain damp or greasy even when upper sections feel dry — test friction carefully before committing.
- Overhanging sections and steeper walls will have shed surface water fastest and are the most likely to be climbable today; vertical and slabby faces in recesses should be treated with suspicion.
- A major rain event is forecast for Aug 27–28 (nearly 80mm combined), which will reset conditions entirely — the current dry window is narrow.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain (nearly 80mm) is forecast for Aug 27–28; the gorge will be completely saturated and likely unclimbable for several days after.
- Limestone in an enclosed gorge becomes extremely slippery when damp — even if the surface looks dry, residual moisture in pockets and on polished holds can cause unexpected slips.
Reasoning
The gorge received 11.6mm on Aug 20 and 1.5mm on Aug 21, with only two dry days since; given the sheltered, enclosed nature of the gill and consistently high humidity (81–89%), pockets and seepage lines are likely still holding moisture.
Two dry days with light winds (11–16 km/h) and an east aspect providing only morning sun offer limited drying potential for an enclosed gorge; the sheltered position severely hampers evaporation compared to an open crag.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold integrity is not a concern — the risk is purely friction-related greasy surfaces.
Mid-to-late August in the Yorkshire Dales brings shorter days and increasingly unsettled weather; the upcoming heavy rain (79.7mm forecast) signals deteriorating conditions for the rest of the week.
Contributing Factors
7
11.6mm fell on Aug 20 with additional rain on surrounding days (22.3mm total in the last week), saturating the gorge environment.
Two consecutive dry days is marginal drying time for a sheltered, enclosed limestone gorge that traps moisture.
Average humidity over the past week is 86%, inhibiting evaporation and keeping limestone surfaces greasy.
The enclosed gill receives minimal wind penetration and only morning sun on east-facing walls, dramatically slowing drying.
Today is dry with humidity dropping to 77% and a light east breeze, offering continued drying — conditions are improving hour by hour.
The overhanging and steep sections characteristic of Trollers Gill shed water quickly and may already be in climbable condition.
51.2mm forecast on Aug 27 and 28.5mm on Aug 28 will completely saturate the gorge, closing the current dry window.
Recommendations
3
- Visit tomorrow (Aug 24) for the best chance in this window — humidity is forecast to drop to 74% with an east breeze that may help dry the east-facing walls; arrive mid-morning after sun has warmed the rock.
- Focus on overhanging and steep routes which will have dried fastest; avoid slabs, grooves, and any routes with visible seepage or damp patches.
- Carry a towel and test friction on lower holds before committing — if the rock feels greasy or polished holds are slick, retreat and wait for better conditions.
Do Not Climb
35%
59 days ago
Trollers Gill has received significant rain over the past week (24.2mm in 7 days, including 11.6mm on Aug 20), with persistently high humidity averaging 87% — this enclosed, sheltered gorge will still be holding moisture. Today's trace precipitation and 81% humidity do not meaningfully advance drying; we recommend waiting for the drier spell forecast from tomorrow.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge geometry traps humid air and severely limits airflow, meaning even after rain stops the walls can remain damp or seeping far longer than open limestone venues.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and the narrow gorge floor is often in shade — this limits solar drying to a few hours per day at best.
- Glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery with even a thin film of moisture, making friction-dependent moves on blank walls and slim grooves genuinely dangerous.
- Pockets and tufa features throughout the gorge act as reservoirs, holding water from the recent heavy rain (11.6mm on Aug 20) and slowly weeping onto routes below.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone is exceptionally greasy when damp — a fall risk even when the surface appears dry to the eye.
- Seepage from the 11.6mm rain on Aug 20 may still be active on multiple routes within the enclosed gorge.
Reasoning
With 24.2mm of rain in the last 7 days — including a heavy 11.6mm event just two days ago — and persistently high humidity (87% average), the gorge walls are very likely still damp, with seepage lines active in the enclosed environment.
The sheltered gorge position blocks wind almost entirely, east aspect limits sun exposure to mornings only, and humidity has remained above 80% since the rain — meaningful drying has barely begun despite two nominally dry days.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces lose friction dramatically when even slightly damp, creating a significant slip hazard.
Late August conditions are deteriorating with shorter days and cooling temperatures (avg 12.5°C last week), which slow evaporation; the recent spell of wet, humid weather is typical of the seasonal transition.
Contributing Factors
6
24.2mm fell in the past 7 days including an 11.6mm downpour on Aug 20, saturating the gorge environment.
Humidity has averaged 87% over the last week and remains at 81% today, preventing effective evaporation from rock surfaces.
The enclosed, narrow gorge blocks wind and airflow, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.
East-facing walls receive only morning sun and much of the gorge remains shaded, reducing solar drying.
The 11.6mm event on Aug 20 was only two days ago, with negligible drying conditions since then.
Aug 23 is forecast dry with 0mm rain, lower humidity (75%), and light winds — a step toward adequate drying.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until Aug 24–25 before visiting, and even then check seepage lines on arrival — the gorge needs multiple dry days to shed moisture.
- If you do visit in the coming days, prioritise the steeper overhanging routes in the lower sections which shed water fastest and are less friction-dependent.
- Carry a towel and check holds for moisture before committing; if pockets are still holding water, consider the crag too damp for safe climbing.
Do Not Climb
35%
60 days ago
Trollers Gill has received significant rainfall over the past few days (11.6mm yesterday, 4.4mm the day before, plus further rain today), and the enclosed, sheltered gorge will retain moisture far longer than open crags. With high humidity averaging 86% over the last week and limited wind penetration, surfaces are likely still damp and greasy — we recommend waiting for the drying window forecast from the 22nd onwards.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even after rain stops, moisture lingers on walls and the damp gorge floor elevates local humidity well above ambient readings.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and the narrow gorge geometry means direct sunlight barely penetrates to lower routes, severely limiting solar drying.
- Pockets, horizontal breaks, and glacially polished smooth surfaces are particularly prone to holding a thin moisture film that drastically reduces friction on limestone.
- The 25-minute walk-in means conditions cannot be checked quickly — if in doubt, consider contacting local climbers or checking UKC logbooks before committing to the approach.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone becomes dangerously slippery with even a thin moisture film — do not commit to routes if holds feel greasy on the first few moves.
- The gorge floor may remain wet and slippery even when walls appear dry; take care on the approach and at the base of routes.
Reasoning
With 11.6mm on the 20th, 4.4mm on the 19th, 3.0mm on the 18th, and further light rain today (0.7mm), the gorge walls are almost certainly still wet or seeping, especially in the enclosed lower sections.
The sheltered gorge receives minimal wind (15.5 km/h today but largely blocked by gorge walls) and only brief morning sun on the east face, meaning drying will be very slow — at least 2 full dry days needed after this volume of recent rain.
Limestone is not structurally weakened by moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces become extremely slippery when even slightly damp, posing a significant fall risk.
Late August brings shorter days and cooling temperatures (average 12.8°C this week), which reduce evaporation rates and extend drying times compared to peak summer.
Contributing Factors
6
23.2mm in the last 7 days including 11.6mm just yesterday means the gorge is saturated and actively seeping.
The sheltered, narrow gorge geometry traps humid air (86% average this week) and prevents effective air circulation for drying.
East aspect with narrow gorge walls means only brief morning sun reaches the rock, offering minimal thermal drying.
Average temperatures of 12.8°C over the past week significantly slow evaporation from rock surfaces and seepage lines.
Three consecutive dry days forecast from Aug 22–24 should progressively improve conditions if the trend holds.
Despite moderate ambient winds, the sheltered gorge blocks most airflow, further slowing surface drying.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until at least August 23rd or 24th — two to three full dry days after today's rain should allow the more exposed and overhanging routes to dry, though seepage lines may persist.
- If visiting on the 23rd or 24th, prioritise overhanging routes and higher sections that dry fastest; avoid slabs, grooves, and pocket-heavy routes where moisture lingers.
- Check UKC condition logs or local social media before committing to the 25-minute walk-in, as gorge conditions can differ significantly from what open-air weather data suggests.
Do Not Climb
90%
61 days ago
Trollers Gill has received significant rainfall today (15.1mm) on top of an already wet week (27.3mm in the last 7 days), and the enclosed gorge will be thoroughly saturated. The rock will be wet and greasy, with seepage likely throughout the gill — conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a moisture trap, holding humidity and seepage far longer than open limestone crags — expect the gorge to remain damp well after rain stops.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and the sheltered gorge floor gets very little direct sunlight, so drying is heavily reliant on ambient conditions and airflow rather than solar gain.
- Glacially polished limestone becomes exceptionally slippery when damp — even a thin film of moisture on the smooth, curved walls dramatically reduces friction.
- Pockets, grooves, and tufa features throughout the gorge will hold standing water for 24–48 hours after heavy rain like today's.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone in the gorge becomes extremely slippery when damp — even residual moisture films create a serious fall risk.
- Another significant rain event (22.8mm) is forecast for August 25th, which will reset drying conditions entirely.
Reasoning
The rock is currently saturated from 15.1mm of rain today plus 12.2mm in the preceding four days (Aug 16–19), with seepage likely running down the gorge walls.
The sheltered gorge with east-only aspect will dry very slowly; even with the wind picking up later today and a drier forecast tomorrow, meaningful drying of this enclosed venue will take at least 2 full dry days.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the glacially polished surfaces become dangerously greasy, making climbing a serious safety hazard.
Late August with shortening days means less solar energy for drying; average temperatures have been cool (13.8°C over the past week) which slows evaporation.
Contributing Factors
6
15.1mm of precipitation today, mostly concentrated in overnight and morning hours, has thoroughly wetted all surfaces in the gorge.
27.3mm over the last 7 days means the gorge was already holding moisture before today's heavy rain.
The narrow, sheltered gill receives minimal wind penetration and limited sun, drastically slowing evaporation compared to open crags.
Average humidity of 86% over the past week and 85% today prevents effective evaporative drying.
Humidity drops to the low 60s this afternoon and rain appears to have stopped, but this is insufficient to dry the gorge today.
Two consecutive dry days with humidity dropping to 74–76% should begin to bring the gorge toward climbable conditions.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit today or tomorrow — the gorge will be thoroughly wet and greasy.
- The earliest realistic window is the afternoon of August 22nd or morning of August 23rd, but assess conditions on arrival as the sheltered gorge may still hold seepage.
- If visiting on the 22nd or 23rd, prioritise the steepest overhanging routes on the lower walls, which shed water fastest and are least affected by residual seepage.
Do Not Climb
88%
62 days ago
Trollers Gill is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing: nearly 7mm of rain has fallen today on top of recent days of persistent precipitation (12.7mm in the last week), and a further 27mm is forecast for tomorrow. The enclosed gorge will be actively seeping and greasy, with no adequate drying window available today or in the immediate future.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps moisture and lacks airflow, meaning seepage from the walls will persist well beyond the last rain — expect at least 2–3 fully dry days before the gorge dries out.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which is largely ineffective when cloud cover is near 100% as it has been recently.
- The gorge floor stays damp long after the walls begin to dry, making approach and belaying uncomfortable and potentially slippery.
- Overhanging lower sections will dry first and may offer climbable rock before the slabs and grooves higher up — but not until well after the current wet spell passes.
Warnings
2
- Polished limestone in the gorge becomes extremely slippery when damp — even residual moisture creates dangerous friction loss on technical routes.
- Tomorrow's 27mm deluge will likely cause active water flow through the gorge; do not enter during or immediately after heavy rain due to flash-flood risk in the narrow gill.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet: 6.9mm today plus 5.8mm over the preceding three days, with humidity at 88% and the sheltered gorge offering minimal evaporation.
The sheltered east-facing aspect receives almost no effective drying today given persistent cloud cover and ongoing drizzle; wind penetration into the gorge is minimal despite moderate winds above.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but the glacially polished surfaces become extremely slippery and pockets will be holding standing water.
Mid-August should be prime season, but the current unsettled spell with above-average humidity (82% seven-day average) and cool temperatures (~15°C) is prolonging drying times significantly.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 7mm of rain has fallen today with further drizzle forecast through the evening, keeping rock surfaces actively wet.
27.3mm forecast for August 20th will thoroughly saturate the gorge and reset any drying progress.
Seven-day average humidity of 82% with today at 88% severely inhibits evaporation, especially in the sheltered gorge.
The narrow gorge blocks wind and limits sun exposure, trapping moisture far longer than open limestone crags.
Temperatures around 15°C with overnight lows near 12°C provide limited thermal drying energy.
From August 22nd onwards, a dry spell with dropping humidity (74–75%) and light winds may allow gradual drying.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Trollers Gill today or tomorrow — rock will be actively wet and dangerously greasy.
- The earliest realistic window for the gorge to begin drying is August 22–23; even then, visually check walls for seepage before committing, especially in recessed sections.
- If visiting later in the week, prioritise the overhanging lower sections which shed water fastest and avoid pocketed slabs that retain moisture.
Do Not Climb
90%
63 days ago
Trollers Gill is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Intermittent rain today (3.7mm) follows two days of rain (4.2mm combined on Aug 16–17), and the enclosed gorge with 92%+ humidity will keep the limestone greasy and seeping. Further rain is forecast tomorrow and heavily on Aug 20th, with conditions unlikely to become climbable before Aug 22nd at the earliest.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps moisture and has very poor air circulation, meaning drying times are significantly longer than open limestone crags — expect 2+ dry days needed after meaningful rain.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and in an enclosed gill much of the rock is in permanent shade, further slowing evaporation.
- Pockets and horizontal breaks in the glacially-polished limestone are prone to holding standing water and seepage lines that persist well after rain stops.
- The 25-minute walk-in along the footpath from Parcevall Hall can itself be very muddy and slippery after wet spells like this.
Warnings
2
- Polished limestone in the gorge becomes extremely slippery when damp — even a thin moisture film dramatically reduces friction on the technical slab and wall routes.
- Heavy rain forecast on Aug 20th (8.8mm) may cause the gorge floor to flood or become impassable.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet: 3.7mm of rain today follows 2.5mm yesterday and 1.7mm the day before, with humidity at 92% and no drying window — the limestone will be soaked and greasy throughout.
The sheltered gorge with east aspect receives minimal direct sun and almost no wind penetration, so drying after this 3-day wet spell will be extremely slow, requiring at least 2 full dry days with lower humidity.
Limestone does not suffer structural damage from moisture, but the glacially-polished surfaces become dangerously slippery when damp, making falls on the technical sport routes highly likely.
Mid-August should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current cool, humid spell (15–17°C, 80–96% humidity) is performing well below seasonal norms and prolonging moisture retention.
Contributing Factors
6
Intermittent showers throughout the day totalling 3.7mm are keeping all rock surfaces wet.
Rain on Aug 16 (1.7mm), Aug 17 (2.5mm), and today (3.7mm) has saturated the gorge walls and floor.
Humidity has been 83–96% over the last three days and remains at 92% today, preventing any meaningful evaporation.
The narrow gorge traps humid air and blocks wind, dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.
Tomorrow brings another 3.6mm and Aug 20th a heavy 8.8mm, preventing drying until at least Aug 21st.
Temperatures of 13–16°C are below summer averages and reduce evaporation rates.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit today or in the next two days — the gorge will be wet and the limestone dangerously greasy.
- The earliest realistic window is August 22nd after two forecast dry days with dropping humidity; even then, assess conditions carefully on arrival.
- If visiting later in the week, prioritise the steeper overhanging lines in the lower gorge which shed water fastest and dry before vertical faces.
Do Not Climb
70%
64 days ago
Recent rain (3.9mm on Aug 16, 1.5mm today) combined with very high humidity (91% today, 96%+ overnight) and the sheltered, enclosed nature of Trollers Gill means the rock is likely greasy and pockets will be holding moisture. More rain is forecast from tonight onwards, with a significant 14.9mm event on Aug 20, making conditions unsuitable for the coming days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humid air and drastically slows drying — even small amounts of rain can leave seepage lines active for days in this venue.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, and today's 100% cloud cover eliminates any solar drying benefit entirely.
- The sheltered position means the moderate westerly winds forecast this week will barely penetrate the gorge floor, further limiting evaporation.
- Overhanging lower sections are the most likely to be climbable in marginal conditions, but humidity above 80% makes even dry-looking limestone dangerously greasy.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone at Trollers Gill becomes extremely slippery in damp or humid conditions — falls on the sustained technical routes here carry serious injury risk.
- Heavy rain forecast for Aug 20 (14.9mm) will likely cause seepage and standing water on the gorge floor; avoid the gill entirely on and immediately after that day.
Reasoning
With 3.9mm on Aug 16 and 1.5mm today, plus overnight humidity consistently above 93%, the rock surfaces within the enclosed gorge are almost certainly damp, with pockets and seepage lines actively wet.
The sheltered gorge, east aspect with no sun today (100% cloud), and near-zero wind inside the gill mean virtually no drying has occurred since yesterday's rain.
Limestone is not structurally weakened by moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces at Trollers Gill become exceptionally slippery when damp — a significant safety hazard on the sustained technical climbing here.
Mid-August should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled spell with repeated frontal rain and high humidity is negating the seasonal advantage.
Contributing Factors
6
3.9mm fell on Aug 16 and 1.5mm today, with no meaningful dry window in between for the sheltered gorge to dry.
Humidity has been 91% today and 93–97% overnight, which prevents evaporation and makes limestone surfaces greasy even where not directly wet.
The narrow gorge traps moisture and blocks wind, meaning drying rates are far slower than at open crags.
100% cloud cover all day eliminates the east-facing walls' morning sun advantage, removing the primary drying mechanism.
6.9mm forecast for tomorrow and 14.9mm on Aug 20 will reset any drying progress and keep the gorge wet for days.
Temperatures around 15–18°C are reasonable for summer but insufficient to overcome the humidity and lack of airflow in the gorge.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the combination of recent rain, extreme humidity, and zero drying conditions makes limestone surfaces dangerously greasy.
- Wait for at least 2 consecutive dry days with humidity below 75% and some sunshine before visiting; the enclosed gorge needs significantly more drying time than open crags.
- If visiting later this week, Aug 22 onwards looks most promising but check conditions in person, particularly seepage lines and pocket drainage, before committing to routes.
Do Not Climb
45%
65 days ago
Today has seen light rain (0.6mm) and humidity is high at 82%, and the enclosed gorge will hold this moisture; tomorrow and the following days bring further light rain and persistently high humidity (81–86%), meaning the limestone is likely to be greasy and friction-poor. Conditions are unlikely to be reliably climbable until at least August 21st when humidity finally drops.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even after light rain, ambient moisture lingers far longer than at open crags, keeping the polished limestone greasy.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which is insufficient to drive off moisture when humidity exceeds 80% and the gorge is sheltered from wind.
- Glacially polished limestone surfaces at Trollers Gill lose friction dramatically even in high humidity without direct rain — the smooth, curved walls are particularly affected.
- The 25-minute walk-in means conditions cannot be easily reassessed mid-session; committing to the approach in marginal conditions risks a wasted trip.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone in an enclosed gorge becomes extremely slippery at high humidity — falls are likely even on routes well within your grade.
- Multiple days of light rain and 80%+ humidity forecast through August 20th mean conditions will not improve imminently.
Reasoning
Light rain today (0.6mm) on top of a period that included 4mm on Aug 5th and scattered trace amounts since, combined with 82% humidity, means rock surfaces in the enclosed gorge are very likely damp or at least greasy.
The sheltered gorge position and east-only aspect severely limit drying potential; with westerly winds unable to penetrate the gorge and morning-only sun, effective drying time is minimal even in summer.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage risk is not elevated — the concern is purely friction and safety.
Mid-August should be prime season, but the current unsettled spell with above-average humidity (72% seven-day average, spiking to 82–90% on wet days) is negating the summer advantage.
Contributing Factors
6
0.6mm of precipitation today will leave surfaces damp in the sheltered gorge, with insufficient time or conditions to dry before end of day.
Humidity has been 74–90% for much of the past two weeks and is forecast at 81–86% through August 20th, keeping the polished limestone greasy.
The enclosed gorge blocks wind penetration and limits sun exposure, dramatically slowing evaporation compared to open limestone crags.
Morning-only sun provides a narrow drying window that is insufficient when humidity remains above 80%.
Light rain is forecast on each of the next four days (0.4–3.2mm), preventing any sustained drying period until August 21st.
Temperatures of 16–20°C are reasonable for evaporation but cannot compensate for the persistent humidity and shelter of the gorge.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until August 21st or later when humidity is forecast to drop to 68% and rain ceases — this offers the first realistic drying window.
- If visiting before then, consider nearby open south-facing limestone venues that dry faster and handle humidity better.
- On arrival, test friction on lower holds before committing to routes — polished gorge limestone becomes treacherously slick even when it looks dry.
Climbing Outlook