Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Four consecutive dry days following only 0.6mm of rain in the past week, combined with a warm spell (up to 31°C) and declining humidity (56–70%), mean the limestone in Trollers Gill should be well dried out. Today's humidity has risen to 81% but with no rain, and the rock has had an excellent extended drying window — conditions are good for climbing today and tomorrow.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humidity and limits airflow, so even after several dry days, deep pockets and sheltered seepage lines can retain residual moisture — check these features by hand before committing.
- East-facing walls receive morning sun only; routes on the western (shaded) side of the gorge will dry last and may feel greasier in high humidity.
- The gorge floor often stays damp even when walls are dry — approach footwork can be slippery and the damp floor contributes to localised humidity at the base of routes.
- The warm spell from Aug 11–13 (up to 31°C with humidity as low as 56%) provided exceptionally good drying conditions that will have penetrated even this sheltered venue.
Reasoning
Only 0.6mm of rain in the last 7 days (last meaningful rain was 4.0mm on Aug 5, nine days ago) combined with a pronounced warm, dry spell means rock surfaces should be thoroughly dry.
Despite the sheltered aspect slowing drying, nine days since the last significant rain and three days of warm temperatures (24–31°C) with low humidity (56–69%) provide more than adequate drying even for an enclosed gorge.
Limestone is non-porous so structural damage from moisture is not a concern; the main risk is greasy friction on damp surfaces, which is unlikely given the extended dry period.
Mid-August is peak summer season with long daylight hours and generally favourable temperatures; the recent warm spell has been ideal for drying out sheltered venues like this.
Contributing Factors
5
Four consecutive dry days and only 0.6mm total in the past week, with the last significant rain (4.0mm) falling nine days ago on Aug 5.
Three days of 24–31°C from Aug 11–13 with humidity as low as 56% provided exceptional drying conditions even for sheltered gorge walls.
The enclosed gorge limits airflow and sun exposure, meaning drying is slower than at open crags — though the prolonged dry spell compensates well.
Humidity has risen to 81% today but without rain this mainly affects surface friction feel rather than introducing new moisture to the rock.
Rain is forecast from Aug 17 (2.1mm) with heavier rain on Aug 18 (7.8mm), closing the current dry window within a few days.
Recommendations
3
- Climb today or tomorrow (Aug 15) for the best conditions before rain arrives mid-week; mornings are ideal when east-facing walls catch the sun and humidity is lower.
- Check pockets and seepage lines by hand before pulling on — deep features in the gorge can retain moisture even after extended dry spells.
- Avoid climbing from Aug 18 onwards without reassessing; 7.8mm of rain into a sheltered gorge will require several dry days to clear.
Previous Analyses
Likely Safe to Climb
82%
2 days ago
Three consecutive dry days, very low humidity today (down to 27%), and warm temperatures have allowed the gorge to dry well after only minor recent precipitation (0.7mm in the last 7 days). Today offers excellent conditions, particularly from mid-morning through late afternoon when humidity is at its lowest.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even on dry days, early morning and late evening humidity can leave a greasy film on holds, so the mid-morning to late-afternoon window is optimal.
- The east-facing aspect means direct sun hits the walls only in the morning; by afternoon the gorge is in shade, so residual seepage in deep pockets may persist even when surfaces feel dry.
- The 4mm rain on Aug 5 was the last significant precipitation, and with 8 days of mostly dry weather since, even the gorge's slower-drying recesses should be largely dry.
- The sheltered position means the moderate westerly winds of recent days will have had limited drying effect inside the gorge itself — drying has relied more on temperature and low humidity.
Reasoning
Only 0.7mm of precipitation in the past 7 days (all trace amounts), with the last significant rain (4mm) falling 8 days ago, means the rock should be thoroughly dry even in this enclosed gorge.
Three dry days with today's exceptional warmth (31.8°C) and very low humidity (down to 27%) have provided strong evaporative drying, though the sheltered gorge and east aspect limit direct wind and afternoon sun penetration.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when damp, so hold integrity is not a concern; the primary risk is friction loss on greasy surfaces, which is minimal today given the low humidity.
Mid-summer conditions are ideal for this venue — long days, warm temperatures, and the current dry spell provide a reliable climbing window before the forecast deterioration later this week.
Contributing Factors
5
Only 0.7mm in the last 7 days and 3 consecutive fully dry days mean even the enclosed gorge has had ample drying time.
Today's humidity drops to 27–35% during peak hours, which is exceptionally good for limestone friction even in a sheltered gorge.
Temperatures reaching 31.8°C today drive rapid evaporation of any residual moisture in pockets and seepage lines.
The enclosed gorge limits airflow and traps humidity, meaning conditions inside may be slightly damper than open-air weather data suggests.
A significant 33.6mm rainfall event is forecast for Aug 17, which will not affect today but will reset drying conditions later this week.
Recommendations
3
- Climb today during the optimal window of roughly 10:00–18:00 when humidity is lowest and friction is best.
- Check deep pockets and horizontal breaks for residual moisture before committing to moves, especially on routes that receive no direct sun.
- Plan to visit before Aug 17 — the forecast 33.6mm deluge will require several days of drying before the gorge is climbable again.
Likely Safe to Climb
82%
3 days ago
After two fully dry days following only trace precipitation (0.6mm on Aug 10), and with today's warm, low-humidity conditions (peaking at 28°C, humidity dropping to 32%), the limestone at Trollers Gill should be dry and offering good friction. The extended dry spell from mid-July means deep seepage has largely cleared, and today's afternoon conditions are excellent for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humidity and limits airflow, so even on a warm day like today the shaded lower walls may feel cooler and slightly damper than conditions at the gorge entrance suggest.
- East-facing walls received morning sun today (clearing skies from ~07:00), which will have warmed and dried surfaces through the morning — afternoon climbing will be in shade but on pre-warmed rock.
- Pockets and horizontal breaks in the glacially-polished limestone can retain small amounts of water from the 0.6mm on Aug 10; check holds individually on lower, more sheltered sections.
- The 25-minute walk-in from Parcevall Hall means climbers arriving mid-morning will find the best combination of sun-warmed rock and declining humidity.
Reasoning
Only 0.7mm of rain fell in the last 7 days (mostly trace amounts), and the last meaningful rain was 4.0mm on Aug 5 — seven days ago — giving ample drying time even for this sheltered gorge.
Two consecutive dry days with today's exceptional warmth (28°C) and low humidity (down to 32%) have provided strong drying conditions, though the sheltered east-facing aspect and gorge microclimate mean drying is slower than an open crag.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when damp, and the prolonged dry period means no freeze-thaw or saturation concerns exist.
Mid-August is peak summer season with long days and warm temperatures; today's 28°C is unusually warm for this altitude in the Dales, providing excellent evaporative drying.
Contributing Factors
5
A prolonged dry period from July 15–24 (zero rain for 10 days) followed by only scattered light showers means deep seepage has largely dissipated.
Just 0.6mm on Aug 10 and 0.1mm on Aug 7 in the past week — negligible amounts that dry quickly even in a sheltered gorge.
Temperatures reaching 28°C with humidity dropping to 32% by mid-afternoon provide outstanding evaporative drying for limestone.
The enclosed gorge limits wind penetration and airflow, meaning residual dampness in deep pockets or seepage lines persists longer than at open crags.
Humidity climbs back to 60%+ after 19:00, which could make friction noticeably worse on late-evening attempts.
Recommendations
3
- Climb from late morning through mid-afternoon (11:00–17:00) when humidity is at its lowest and sun-warmed rock offers peak friction.
- Check pockets and horizontal breaks for residual moisture before committing to moves, especially on lower sheltered walls.
- Tomorrow (Aug 13) looks even warmer and drier — consider it as a prime day before conditions deteriorate from Aug 16 onward.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
70%
5 days ago
Three dry days following light recent rain (5.7mm in the last week) and a settling weather pattern suggest the rock is likely dry on exposed faces, but the enclosed gorge environment and high recent humidity (79% average) mean residual dampness in sheltered pockets and seepage lines is plausible. Today's afternoon conditions (humidity dropping to ~46%) are promising, and the next five days look excellent.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humidity and restricts airflow, meaning even after several dry days the deepest recesses and north-facing nooks can remain damp or greasy.
- East-facing walls receive only morning sun; by late morning much of the gorge is in shade, so drying relies heavily on ambient air movement which is limited in this sheltered venue.
- The 4mm rain on August 5th was the most significant recent event — five full dry days since then is adequate for open limestone, but gorge seepage lines fed by hillside drainage can persist longer.
- The gorge floor often remains wet even when walls are dry; approach carefully and be aware that humidity rises near ground level inside the gill.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely slippery when even slightly damp — test holds carefully, especially in pockets and horizontal breaks that trap water.
- Early morning dew and high overnight humidity (95%) mean morning conditions inside the gorge may be greasy; wait until afternoon for best friction.
Reasoning
The last significant rain (4mm on Aug 5) was five days ago, with only a trace 0.1mm on Aug 7 since; open limestone surfaces should be dry but enclosed gorge features — pockets, deep grooves, and seepage lines — may still hold residual moisture given persistently high humidity.
The sheltered, east-facing gorge receives limited direct sun and minimal wind penetration, so drying is slow despite three fully dry days; today's dropping humidity (down to 46% by mid-afternoon) will aid surface drying significantly.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage risk from moisture is negligible.
Mid-summer provides the longest days and warmest temperatures, which is the best time of year for this venue; current conditions are seasonally normal with no frost or freeze-thaw concerns.
Contributing Factors
6
No meaningful rain since 4mm on August 5th gives five full drying days, which is generally adequate for limestone surfaces.
The narrow, sheltered gill restricts airflow and sun exposure, significantly slowing evaporation compared to open crags.
Average humidity over the past week was 79%, limiting evaporative drying and potentially leaving a greasy film on shaded holds.
Today's humidity drops to 46% by afternoon and the next five days are completely dry with humidity in the 63–73% range, signalling a sustained drying trend.
The gorge's sheltered position means even moderate regional winds barely penetrate, reducing the wind-assisted drying that open crags benefit from.
Daytime temperatures reaching 19°C today and up to 30°C by midweek will accelerate evaporation of any lingering moisture.
Recommendations
3
- Visit this afternoon (after midday) when humidity drops below 50% and assess the rock surface by touch before committing to routes — prioritise overhanging sections which dry fastest.
- Favour the steeper, more exposed walls higher in the gorge rather than deep recesses or the gorge floor where moisture lingers longest.
- Conditions will improve markedly over the next 2–3 days; if any dampness is found today, return mid-week (Aug 12–13) when warm, dry weather will have fully dried the gorge.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
5 days ago
The rock has had only two full dry days since the last notable rain (4.0mm on Aug 5), and the enclosed gorge's sheltered nature combined with humidity averaging 78% over the past week will have slowed drying. Surface conditions are likely approaching dry on exposed and overhanging faces, but pockets, seepage lines, and lower gorge walls may still hold residual moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humid air and receives limited airflow, meaning drying times are significantly longer than at open limestone crags — even light rain can leave seepage on walls for several days.
- East-facing walls catch only morning sun, so afternoon sessions rely entirely on ambient drying rather than direct solar heating.
- Overhanging sections and the lower gorge walls tend to dry fastest as they shed water more readily, whereas vertical slabs and pocket-rich faces retain moisture longer.
- The 25-minute walk-in from Parcevall Hall gives an opportunity to gauge dampness on approach — if the gorge floor is visibly wet or the air feels clammy on arrival, conditions are unlikely to be good enough for the walls.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely greasy when damp — even if the surface appears dry, residual moisture in pockets can cause unexpected slips on technical moves.
- The enclosed gorge floor may remain damp and slippery; take care on the approach and at the base of routes.
Reasoning
4.0mm fell on Aug 5 followed by only trace precipitation, but the sheltered gorge at 300m with high humidity (82% on Aug 6, 75–78% since) will have slowed evaporation, and some pockets and seepage features may still hold residual moisture.
Two full dry days with moderate westerly winds offer some drying, but the sheltered gorge blocks most wind effect, and the east aspect limits direct sun to mornings only — expect slower drying than weather station data alone would suggest.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so hold breakage risk is negligible and not a concern here.
Mid-summer conditions are generally favourable with long days and reasonable temperatures, though the recent unsettled spell with multiple rain events has kept ambient humidity elevated.
Contributing Factors
6
4.0mm on Aug 5 plus trace amounts on Aug 7 mean the gorge has had only two fully dry days to recover, which is marginal for an enclosed limestone gill.
Humidity has averaged 78% over the past week, peaking at 90% on Aug 5, which significantly reduces friction on limestone surfaces and slows drying in the sheltered gorge.
The enclosed, narrow gorge traps moisture and blocks wind, meaning drying times are substantially longer than weather station readings would suggest.
The next five days show zero precipitation with humidity dropping to 68–70% and temperatures rising to the low-to-mid 20s, which will progressively improve conditions.
The overhanging and steep lower walls shed water effectively and are likely the driest areas of the crag right now.
The east aspect will catch direct morning sun, aiding surface drying on the upper walls for early-start climbers.
Recommendations
3
- Visit tomorrow (Aug 10) or later for the best chance of dry conditions, as each additional dry day with falling humidity will improve the rock significantly.
- Prioritise overhanging and steep routes which shed moisture fastest; avoid pocket-heavy vertical faces and known seepage lines until conditions are confirmed dry.
- Arrive early to make the most of direct morning sun on the east-facing walls, and physically touch the rock in several places before committing to a route.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
6 days ago
After 4mm of rain on August 5th and trace amounts since, today's dry and warm conditions (22°C, 69% humidity) are helpful, but Trollers Gill's enclosed, sheltered gorge retains moisture longer than open crags and humidity has been elevated for much of the past week. The rock is likely drying well on exposed faces but seepage in pockets and shaded recesses may persist — a visual check on arrival is essential.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap, meaning ambient moisture lingers even on otherwise dry days, reducing friction on the polished limestone surfaces.
- Seepage lines on the gorge walls can persist for 3–4 days after moderate rain, particularly on the deeper, more shaded sections away from the east-facing morning sun.
- The glacially polished rock texture offers less natural friction than rough limestone, making even slight residual dampness a significant slip hazard.
- Overhanging lower sections and cave-like features tend to dry fastest and may offer climbable rock even when vertical and slabby walls remain greasy.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone becomes dangerously slippery with even a thin film of moisture — test holds carefully before committing to crux sequences.
- The gorge floor may remain wet and slippery; take care on the approach and around the base of routes.
Reasoning
The most significant rain was 4.0mm on August 5th (3 days ago), with only trace precipitation (0.1mm) on August 7th; exposed surfaces should be largely dry but the enclosed gorge environment will have slowed evaporation considerably.
With an east aspect receiving only morning sun and a sheltered position limiting airflow, the gorge has had roughly 2 effective drying days — adequate for open limestone faces but marginal for pockets, seepage lines, and shaded recesses within the gill.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so hold integrity is not a concern; the risk is purely friction-based on the polished surfaces.
Mid-summer conditions are generally favourable with long days and reasonable temperatures, though the recent unsettled spell with above-average humidity (77% over the past week) has limited drying potential.
Contributing Factors
6
4.0mm fell on August 5th with 0.1mm traces on August 7th, giving only 1 fully dry day before today in a venue that needs extended drying time.
The sheltered, narrow gorge retains humid air and limits airflow, significantly slowing evaporation compared to open limestone crags.
Today is dry with 22°C and 69% humidity — the lowest humidity in a week — which will actively promote surface drying.
Average humidity over the past 7 days has been 77%, limiting effective drying and keeping the gorge environment damp.
Smooth, polished limestone loses friction more dramatically than rough rock when even slightly damp, raising the safety threshold for acceptable moisture.
East-facing walls catch morning sun which helps early drying, but shade returns by midday, limiting the total solar drying window.
Recommendations
3
- Visit in the morning to take advantage of direct sunlight on the east-facing walls and visually inspect for seepage and greasy patches before committing to routes.
- Prioritise overhanging lines and steeper sections which will have dried fastest; avoid slabs and vertical walls with visible moisture or a greasy sheen.
- If pockets feel damp to the touch or holds appear dark-stained with moisture, back off and wait — conditions should improve markedly by August 11th–12th.
Do Not Climb
45%
7 days ago
Recent intermittent rain (4.0mm on Aug 5, 0.4mm today) combined with persistently high humidity (79% average over 7 days) means the enclosed gorge is likely still damp, with pockets and seepage lines holding moisture. Tomorrow (Aug 8) looks more promising with drier, warmer conditions forecast, but the sheltered gorge needs extra time to shed residual moisture.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even after rain stops, ambient moisture lingers far longer than at open crags, keeping limestone greasy.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which limits the daily drying window; the gorge floor and lower walls will be the last areas to dry.
- Overhanging sections and steeper sport routes in the lower gorge dry fastest and may offer climbable rock even when vertical faces remain damp.
- The 25-minute walk-in from Parcevall Hall gives an opportunity to gauge conditions — if the footpath through Gill Heads is muddy and the gorge floor wet, the walls will almost certainly still be seeping.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone becomes extremely slippery when damp — even a thin moisture film can cause unexpected slips on holds that look dry.
- Today's trace rain (0.4mm) resets the drying clock in this sheltered gorge; do not assume surfaces are dry based on the broader weather picture alone.
Reasoning
4.0mm fell on Aug 5, with trace amounts on Aug 3, Aug 1, and today (Aug 7), and humidity has averaged 79–90% over recent days, meaning the sheltered gorge walls are very likely still holding surface moisture and seepage.
The sheltered position blocks most wind-driven drying, east aspect limits sun exposure to mornings only, and persistently high humidity (80%+ on multiple recent days) has severely curtailed evaporation since the last significant rain on Aug 5.
Limestone is not structurally weakened by moisture, but the glacially polished, smooth surfaces at Trollers Gill become extremely slippery when damp, posing a significant safety hazard.
Mid-summer provides the best available drying conditions with long days and reasonable temperatures, but the current unsettled spell with high humidity is working against rapid drying at this sheltered altitude.
Contributing Factors
6
4.0mm on Aug 5 and 0.4mm today, with several trace amounts in between, means the gorge has had no sustained dry window to fully dry out.
Humidity has averaged 79% over the past week with peaks of 90%, which drastically slows evaporation and keeps polished limestone greasy.
The deep, narrow gorge traps humid air and blocks wind, preventing the ventilation needed to dry seepage lines and pockets.
Sun only reaches the east-facing walls in the morning, limiting the solar drying window to a few hours per day.
Aug 8 forecasts 0.0mm rain, 22.4°C, and a drop to 71% humidity with SW wind at 23 km/h, which should begin improving conditions.
Long daylight hours and generally warm temperatures provide the best baseline for drying, even in a sheltered gorge.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least until tomorrow (Aug 8) and ideally Aug 9 or later to allow the gorge to benefit from the forecast drier, warmer spell before committing to climb.
- If visiting tomorrow, focus on overhanging routes in the lower gorge which shed water fastest, and physically test holds for grease before committing to moves.
- Check the gorge floor and lower walls on approach — if they are visibly damp or the air feels humid inside the gill, conditions are not suitable for the slabby or vertical routes.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
9 days ago
Recent scattered rain (4mm yesterday, 0.3mm overnight) and persistently high humidity mean the enclosed gorge is likely still holding moisture on many features, though the prolonged dry spell earlier in July has kept overall saturation low. A brief afternoon window today with dropping humidity (~55–60%) could offer acceptable friction on the steepest, best-drained walls, but a visual check on arrival is essential.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Trollers Gill's enclosed gorge acts as a humidity trap — even when surrounding hillsides dry, the sheltered gill floor and lower walls can remain damp and greasy.
- The east-facing aspect means the gorge only catches direct sun in the morning; by the time humidity drops in the afternoon, the walls are in shade, limiting solar drying.
- Seepage lines on the back walls of the gorge are common after any rain and can persist for days given the sheltered, cool microclimate at 300m.
- Overhanging sport routes on the lower sections of the gill tend to dry fastest and may offer climbable conditions even when vertical walls remain damp.
Warnings
2
- Glacially polished limestone becomes dangerously slippery with minimal moisture — do not trust visual dryness alone; always touch-test.
- The gorge floor can be slippery and wet even when walls appear dry; take care on the approach and at the base of routes.
Reasoning
With 4mm on Aug 5, 0.3mm overnight, and ambient humidity around 80%, the enclosed gorge walls are likely still carrying surface moisture, particularly in pockets and seepage zones.
The sheltered, east-facing gorge receives minimal afternoon sun and limited airflow, so drying since yesterday's rain has been very slow despite moderate westerly winds above the gill.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage is not a concern, but greasy friction on polished glacial limestone is a significant slip hazard.
Mid-summer temperatures are reasonable but recent weeks have seen below-average temps (14–16°C) and above-average humidity (78%), limiting the drying capacity typical of August.
Contributing Factors
6
4.0mm fell on Aug 5 with 0.3mm overnight, leaving insufficient drying time for this enclosed gorge.
Humidity has averaged 78% over the past week, and the gorge's sheltered microclimate will trap even more moisture than the weather station suggests.
The enclosed gill blocks wind and limits sun exposure, drastically slowing evaporation compared to open crags.
Humidity is forecast to drop to 55–59% between 15:00–16:00, which could briefly improve friction on the driest overhanging walls.
Only 15.7mm over 28 days means the rock is not deeply saturated, so surface drying should be relatively quick once humidity drops.
The smooth, glacially polished rock becomes exceptionally slippery with even a thin film of moisture, requiring genuinely dry conditions for safe friction.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, target the brief low-humidity window (14:00–17:00) and restrict climbing to overhanging routes that will have stayed driest.
- Touch-test holds before committing — polished limestone can look dry but feel greasy; if friction feels poor, back off.
- Friday Aug 8 looks like the best upcoming day with 0mm rain forecast and 66% humidity; consider waiting for that window if conditions today feel marginal.
Do Not Climb
85%
11 days ago
Trollers Gill is currently wet from today's rain (3.2mm) with further heavy rain (10.5mm) forecast tomorrow, and the enclosed gorge will retain moisture for an extended period. Humidity is very high (88–95%) and the sheltered gorge will not dry effectively in these conditions.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps moisture and limits air circulation, meaning even modest rainfall takes significantly longer to dry than an open crag — expect seepage from pockets and grooves for 1–2 days after rain.
- East-facing walls only receive morning sun, which is further reduced by the narrow gorge walls; afternoon drying relies entirely on air movement, which is minimal in this sheltered setting.
- The glacially polished limestone surfaces become exceptionally slippery when humid or damp, with friction dropping well below safe levels even before visible wetness.
- Recent days have seen scattered light showers (0.1–0.5mm) preventing the rock from fully drying between rain events, and the gorge floor will be persistently damp.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain (10.5mm) is forecast for tomorrow August 5th with 93% humidity — do not climb.
- The gorge floor may be slippery and stream levels could rise after heavy rain; take care on the approach.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet from 3.2mm of rain today (concentrated in the afternoon) on top of intermittent light precipitation over the past week, and the enclosed gorge will be holding surface and pocket moisture.
The sheltered, east-facing gorge receives very limited direct sun and almost no wind penetration, so drying will be extremely slow — especially with humidity consistently above 85% and 100% cloud cover today.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces will be dangerously greasy with current humidity and direct wetness.
Summer conditions are generally favourable but this unsettled spell with frequent light rain and high humidity is preventing any meaningful drying between events.
Contributing Factors
6
3.2mm falling today with a further 10.5mm forecast for tomorrow will thoroughly saturate the gorge walls and floor.
Humidity has been 85–95% for the past several days and is forecast to remain above 90% today and tomorrow, preventing any effective drying.
The narrow gorge walls block wind and limit sun exposure, trapping moisture and dramatically slowing drying compared to open crags.
Scattered showers on 5 of the last 7 days (totalling ~4mm) have prevented the rock from reaching a fully dry baseline.
Mid-teen to low-20s temperatures provide some drying potential once rain stops and humidity drops.
Morning sun on east-facing walls helps but is limited by the gorge depth and is insufficient to counter current moisture levels.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit today or tomorrow — the gorge will be wet and greasy with heavy rain forecast for August 5th.
- The earliest realistic window is August 8th, but only if humidity drops and no further unforecast rain materialises; check conditions on arrival.
- If visiting later this week, test friction carefully on lower holds before committing — the polished limestone becomes treacherous with residual humidity.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
12 days ago
A prolonged dry spell through most of July has left the gorge well-dried, but recent scattered light rain (2.6mm on July 25, 5.6mm on July 26, plus trace amounts since) and persistently high humidity mean the enclosed gorge may still have residual dampness in sheltered spots. Today offers a good afternoon window (11:00–19:00) with humidity dropping to 40–53% and clearing skies, but rain returns this evening and the forecast ahead is unsettled.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The enclosed gorge traps humid air and limits airflow, so even after dry spells the polished walls can feel greasy when ambient humidity exceeds ~80%.
- East-facing walls only catch morning sun, meaning the gorge interior dries slowly — the mid-afternoon low-humidity window today is driven by warm air rather than direct sunlight reaching most routes.
- The glacially polished limestone at Trollers Gill becomes exceptionally slippery when damp; even light condensation or high humidity significantly reduces friction on the smooth walls.
- The 25-minute walk-in from Parcevall Hall means committing to a session — check conditions at the gorge entrance before heading deeper in, as seepage lines on the upper walls are a reliable indicator of overall moisture state.
Warnings
2
- Rain is forecast from 20:00 tonight — do not linger into the evening as the gorge floor will become slippery and retreat in the dark could be hazardous.
- The polished limestone can be deceptively greasy even when it appears dry — test friction carefully on easier moves before committing to harder routes.
Reasoning
The rock received ~8mm of rain over July 25–28 and trace amounts on July 31 and August 1, followed by only one dry day (Aug 2) before today's 2mm; the sheltered gorge with average humidity of 77% over the past week will have retained some surface moisture in pockets and seepage lines.
The sheltered east-facing aspect and enclosed gorge severely limit wind-driven and solar drying; despite the earlier long dry spell, the recent return of scattered rain and high humidity means drying has been slow and incomplete.
No structural risk — limestone does not suffer grain-loosening from moisture, but the glacially polished surfaces become dangerously greasy when damp.
Mid-summer provides the best overall drying potential with warm temperatures and long days, but the current unsettled spell with below-average temperatures (~16°C) is limiting evaporation.
Contributing Factors
6
Scattered rain on July 25–26 (8.2mm combined), traces on July 28/31/Aug 1, and 2mm today mean the gorge has not had a sustained dry-out period recently.
Today's humidity drops to 40–48% between 12:00–18:00 with warm temperatures up to 24°C, providing a viable climbing window before evening rain arrives.
The narrow gorge traps moisture and limits wind penetration, meaning drying takes significantly longer than at open crags even with favourable weather.
The 7-day average humidity of 77% and persistent cloud cover have limited evaporative drying, and the polished limestone loses friction quickly in humid conditions.
Over two weeks of zero rainfall from July 6–23 means deep seepage lines were well dried before the recent unsettled weather, reducing the severity of current dampness.
Rain is forecast on each of the next four days (4.8mm tomorrow, then further showers), meaning conditions will deteriorate rather than improve.
Recommendations
3
- If climbing today, target the afternoon window (12:00–18:00) when humidity is lowest and leave before the evening rain arrives around 20:00.
- Inspect seepage lines and touch-test holds at the gorge entrance before committing — if the polished walls feel greasy, conditions are not suitable.
- Consider waiting for a sustained dry spell; the next five days look unsettled and the gorge will need 2–3 dry days with low humidity to be reliably dry throughout.
Climbing Outlook