Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
After 2.2mm of rain on April 12 (mostly in the early hours) and a full dry day since, surface limestone at Angel Bay may be approaching climbable condition, but the north-facing aspect, recent intermittent wet spells, and moderate humidity mean pockets and seepage lines could still be damp. Climbers should visually and physically assess the rock before committing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, meaning the partial wind exposure is further reduced and drying can be slower than expected despite the 'partial' classification.
- The cave and roof features that characterise this venue can retain seepage and condensation moisture for extended periods, especially during the current run of humid, unsettled weather.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early April, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both of which are modest today.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; access is currently open but climbers should verify the latest status with the BMC RAD or local notices before descending to the beach.
Warnings
3
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; verify current access status via the BMC Regional Access Database before visiting.
- Limestone becomes extremely greasy in damp or humid conditions — a fall risk even when the rock appears superficially dry.
- The forecast shows rain returning tomorrow (3.1mm) and continued unsettled conditions through the week, so today may be the only marginal window.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 2.2mm on April 12 (concentrated in the early morning hours), preceded by 11.5mm on April 11, giving a cumulative 18.2mm over the past week — the rock surface dried through yesterday afternoon but deeper pockets and seepage lines likely retain moisture.
One dry day with moderate southerly wind (13.7 km/h) and 74% humidity on a north-facing, sheltered sea-cliff provides limited drying; exposed walls may be surface-dry but recessed features will lag significantly.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern at this venue.
Early spring brings short drying windows, low sun angles that barely reach this north-facing cliff, and the recent pattern of intermittent rain every 1–3 days makes sustained drying difficult.
Contributing Factors
6
18.2mm over the past 7 days across multiple rain events (11.5mm on Apr 11, 2.2mm on Apr 12) means the rock has been repeatedly re-wetted with minimal sustained drying windows.
The north-facing orientation receives no meaningful direct sun in April and the sheltered position reduces wind-driven drying, making this one of the slowest-drying aspects possible.
Today (Apr 13) has been dry with 0.0mm precipitation, allowing some surface drying since yesterday's early-morning rain.
Humidity at 74% is not extreme but is high enough to slow evaporation and may cause greasy conditions on limestone surfaces.
Angel Bay's cave and roof problems may stay dry from direct rain but are prone to condensation and seepage that persists well after surface rock has dried.
3.1mm forecast for April 14 with 82% humidity means any drying achieved today will be reversed, and conditions will deteriorate again.
Recommendations
3
- If visiting today, physically touch holds and test friction before climbing — limestone can feel dry visually but still be greasy enough to be dangerous.
- Focus on the most exposed, wind-facing walls rather than cave or roof features, which are most likely to retain hidden moisture.
- Consider waiting for a sustained dry spell; the forecast shows intermittent rain and high humidity through at least April 18, making genuinely good friction unlikely this week.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
30%
2 days ago
Angel Bay has received significant recent rainfall including 11.5mm yesterday and 2.2mm today, with no consecutive dry days. The north-facing aspect, limestone's tendency to become greasy in damp conditions, and elevated humidity make current conditions unsuitable for safe climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow and slows drying, particularly in the cave and overhang features where seepage can linger for days after rain.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early spring, meaning surface moisture from the 11.5mm on April 11 and today's 2.2mm will persist much longer than at south-facing venues.
- Limestone pockets, tufas, and cave roofs at this venue are notorious for holding seepage water well after surface rock appears dry — climbers should be especially wary of hidden dampness.
- Seal breeding access restrictions run August–December; the crag should currently be open, but always verify current access status before visiting as restrictions can change.
Warnings
2
- The rock is almost certainly wet or greasy today after 11.5mm yesterday and 2.2mm today — limestone in these conditions offers dangerously poor friction.
- Verify seal breeding access restrictions are not in early effect before visiting; the standard closure is August–December but dates can shift.
Reasoning
With 11.5mm falling yesterday and 2.2mm today, plus 18.2mm in the last 7 days, the rock is almost certainly wet or damp across most features.
The north-facing aspect receives negligible direct sun in April, and while partial wind exposure provides some drying, the sheltered nature of the bay and moderate SW winds today are insufficient to dry the rock after two consecutive days of significant precipitation.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a primary concern here.
Early spring in North Wales brings unsettled weather with frequent rain; the low sun angle means north-facing crags like Angel Bay receive almost no solar drying, extending recovery times significantly.
Contributing Factors
6
11.5mm fell yesterday and 2.2mm today, with zero consecutive dry days — the rock will be wet or actively seeping.
The north aspect and sheltered bay position mean almost no direct solar drying in early spring, prolonging moisture retention considerably.
Limestone becomes extremely slippery even with residual surface moisture or elevated humidity, and current conditions strongly favour greasy rock.
Partial wind exposure at 24.5 km/h SW provides some surface drying, but the sheltered bay position limits its effectiveness.
Humidity at 69% today is moderate but follows days of 74–81%, and the forecast suggests it will remain elevated, reducing evaporative drying.
Limestone does not suffer grain-loosening structural weakening when wet, so climbing on damp rock would not cause permanent route damage — but friction and safety remain concerns.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 2 full dry days with low humidity before visiting, as the north-facing sheltered limestone needs extended drying time after this wet spell.
- If visiting the area, consider a south-facing or well-exposed alternative venue that will dry faster after the recent rain.
- Check BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions on the Little Orme before planning a visit, as peregrine restrictions can apply in spring.
Do Not Climb
90%
3 days ago
Angel Bay is currently wet from today's significant rainfall (9.2mm) with high winds from the south. The north-facing limestone will be greasy and dangerous, and the unsettled forecast offers no meaningful drying window over the coming days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow across the rock and slows drying — today's southerly wind direction does help somewhat but the crag's north aspect means no direct sun to aid evaporation.
- The cave and roof features at Angel Bay can hold seepage for days after rain; pockets and tufas will retain moisture long after surfaces appear dry, making them treacherously greasy.
- The recent pattern shows repeated light-to-moderate rain events (14.7mm in the last 7 days alone) with very few consecutive dry days, meaning the limestone has had virtually no opportunity to fully dry out.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; access is currently open in April, but climbers should always check the latest BMC RAD and local notices before descending to the beach.
Warnings
3
- Today's 9.2mm rain makes limestone surfaces dangerously greasy — do not attempt to climb.
- The approach to Angel Bay involves a steep descent to the beach; wet conditions make this path slippery and hazardous.
- Check current grey seal access restrictions via BMC RAD before visiting, even outside the August–December core period.
Reasoning
Today's 9.2mm of rain on top of an already wet week (14.7mm in 7 days with zero consecutive dry days) means the rock is thoroughly wet, with seepage lines and pockets fully saturated.
The north-facing aspect receives no direct sun, and while the strong southerly wind today provides some airflow, the ongoing rain means no drying has occurred — the crag will need at least 1–2 fully dry, breezy days to become climbable.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern, but the surface will be extremely slippery and dangerous for climbing.
Early spring conditions in North Wales bring frequent frontal systems and cool temperatures that limit evaporation; the 9.8°C average over the past week is insufficient for rapid drying of a sheltered, north-facing sea-cliff venue.
Contributing Factors
6
9.2mm of rain today has thoroughly soaked the rock surface, cave features, and pockets.
Zero consecutive dry days heading into today, with repeated rain events over the past two weeks preventing any sustained drying.
The north-facing orientation means no direct sunlight reaches the rock, dramatically slowing evaporation.
Strong southerly winds today provide some airflow but cannot compensate for active rainfall and the sheltered nature of the bay.
48.7mm over 28 days with frequent rain events means seepage lines and limestone features are well-charged with moisture.
Tomorrow's forecast shows humidity dropping to 63% with only trace precipitation (0.3mm), offering a brief partial drying window.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Angel Bay today — the rock will be wet and extremely greasy after 9.2mm of rain.
- If conditions improve, the earliest realistic opportunity to assess the crag is April 12, but expect lingering dampness in pockets and caves even then.
- Monitor the forecast closely; the unsettled pattern through mid-April means multiple dry days in succession are unlikely, so prioritise sheltered overhanging routes if visiting and be prepared to walk away.
Do Not Climb
45%
4 days ago
Angel Bay received 3mm of rain yesterday (April 9) and light precipitation today (0.3mm), with no consecutive dry days established. The north-facing aspect, limestone rock type, and moderate humidity levels mean the rock is likely still greasy in places, particularly in pockets and cave features where moisture lingers.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's cave and roof features can retain seepage and condensation moisture well after surface rock appears dry, making friction unreliable even on apparently dry holds.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early spring, significantly slowing evaporation from limestone surfaces and pockets.
- The crag is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, reducing the wind-drying benefit that the weather data might otherwise suggest.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; the crag should currently be accessible, but climbers should verify the latest access status before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Significant rain (10.6mm) is forecast for tomorrow (April 11), which will reset drying conditions entirely.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; verify current access status before visiting as seasonal dates can vary.
Reasoning
With 3mm rain on April 9 and 0.3mm today, plus a week averaging 70% humidity, limestone surfaces — especially north-facing pockets and tufas — are likely still carrying residual moisture.
Despite moderate winds (29.9 km/h today from the south), the north-facing aspect and shelter from the headland limit effective drying; zero consecutive dry days means drying has barely begun.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so rock integrity is not a concern; the issue is purely friction and safety.
Early April in North Wales brings cool temperatures and limited solar angle for north-facing crags, meaning drying conditions are poor and humidity tends to remain elevated near the coast.
Contributing Factors
6
3.0mm fell on April 9 with only 0.3mm today, leaving zero established dry days and insufficient time for limestone pockets and seepage lines to dry.
The north-facing orientation receives minimal direct sun in spring, and shelter from the headland reduces wind-assisted drying despite moderate southerly winds today.
Limestone becomes extremely slippery in damp or humid conditions, and cave/pocket features at Angel Bay are prone to retaining moisture and condensation.
Today's 64% humidity is relatively low for the coast, which helps surface drying somewhat, but is not low enough to rapidly dry sheltered limestone features.
Southerly wind at ~30 km/h provides some drying benefit to exposed surfaces, though the crag's sheltered position limits this effect.
Heavy rain forecast for April 11 (10.6mm) followed by further showers on April 13 and 15 means conditions will not meaningfully improve this week.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 2 consecutive fully dry days with humidity below 70% before visiting, as limestone friction is unreliable until surfaces are thoroughly dry.
- If you do visit, test friction carefully on lower holds before committing to anything steep — greasy limestone in cave features can be deceptively dangerous.
- Check the BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions on the Little Orme, as peregrine nesting season is now active (February–June).
Do Not Climb
45%
5 days ago
Angel Bay has received 1.4mm of rain today following a generally unsettled week (7.8mm in 7 days), and overnight humidity was very high (89–91%), meaning the north-facing limestone is likely greasy and damp. With no consecutive dry days, persistent high humidity, and the north aspect receiving minimal solar drying, conditions are unfavourable for friction-dependent limestone climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is north-facing and sheltered from prevailing westerlies by the Little Orme headland, meaning it receives almost no direct sun and dries very slowly — surface condensation and seepage can linger for days.
- The cave and roof features that characterise much of the climbing here can trap humid air and remain greasy even when open walls feel drier; pockets and tufas hold residual moisture.
- Access to Angel Bay is restricted from August to December due to grey seal breeding — currently outside this window, but always check for updated restrictions before visiting.
- Being at sea level on the coast, sea spray and salt-laden humid air can deposit a thin moisture film on holds that significantly reduces friction on limestone even without direct rain.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely greasy in these humid, damp conditions — falls are far more likely when friction is compromised, even on well-known routes.
- Verify current grey seal access restrictions before visiting; while the formal closure is August–December, early breeding activity may trigger earlier restrictions.
Reasoning
Today's 1.4mm of rain on top of already-damp rock from recent showers (4.9mm on 29 March, 1.3mm on 1 April, 1.7mm on 3 April, 3.7mm on 4 April, 1.0mm on 5 April) means surfaces are currently wet, with seepage lines and pockets likely holding water.
The north aspect and sheltered position mean minimal solar drying; overnight humidity peaked at 91% with very light winds (1–9 km/h), so condensation likely formed on rock surfaces and no meaningful drying has occurred since yesterday's dry spell.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern — the issue is purely friction and safety.
Early April in North Wales is still a transitionally damp period with short days and limited solar angle for north-facing crags; reliable drying conditions are more typical from late May onwards.
Contributing Factors
6
1.4mm today with zero consecutive dry days and 7.8mm over the past week means the rock has had no sustained drying window.
Humidity reached 89–91% overnight with near-calm winds, very likely depositing condensation on the north-facing limestone.
The north-facing aspect receives negligible direct sunlight in early April, severely limiting evaporative drying between rain events.
Angel Bay is sheltered from the prevailing westerlies by the headland, reducing the wind-assisted drying that might otherwise compensate for the lack of sun.
Today's westerly wind at 28 km/h may help surface drying somewhat through the afternoon if rain stops.
Sea-level coastal location adds salt moisture and higher ambient humidity, making limestone greasier than inland venues.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 24–48 hours of genuinely dry weather with humidity below 70% before attempting limestone climbing at Angel Bay.
- If visiting the area, consider south-facing or well-exposed alternatives on the Great Orme which dry significantly faster than this sheltered north-facing venue.
- Check the BMC RAD and local access notices for any bird nesting restrictions on the Little Orme headland during spring.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
6 days ago
Three dry days and a warm, low-humidity day yesterday have likely dried surface limestone, but today's high humidity (84%) and north-facing aspect mean friction could be poor. Sheltered cave and roof features may feel greasy despite the dry spell.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow and slows drying on the north-facing walls.
- The cave and roof features stay dry during rain but are prone to condensation and greasiness in high-humidity conditions like today's 84%.
- Limestone pockets and tufas in the lower-level features can retain seepage from the 11.8mm rain on March 24 and subsequent lighter showers through early April.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; the crag is currently accessible but climbers should verify current access status before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Today's 84% humidity may make limestone dangerously greasy — test friction carefully on easy ground before attempting harder routes.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; verify current access status before visiting.
Reasoning
Surface rock has had three consecutive dry days including a warm 20°C day yesterday with humidity dropping to 41%, which should have dried exposed surfaces, but today's humidity has jumped to 84% and may be reintroducing surface moisture through condensation.
Yesterday's easterly wind and warm temperatures provided excellent drying, but the north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun and the sheltered position limits wind-assisted drying, so seepage lines and recesses may still hold dampness.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern at this venue.
Early April in North Wales brings variable conditions with frequent frontal systems; the recent pattern of intermittent light rain punctuated by dry spells is typical, and humidity tends to remain elevated near the coast.
Contributing Factors
6
No measurable rain since April 5 (1.0mm), with two fully dry days and yesterday reaching 20°C with very low humidity, providing good surface drying.
Humidity has surged to 84% today with NW wind, which can make limestone surfaces greasy and significantly reduce friction even without rain.
The north-facing orientation receives virtually no direct sun in early April, and the sheltered position behind the Little Orme reduces wind-assisted evaporation.
Scattered light rain events through late March and early April (6.6mm in the last 7 days) mean the rock environment has not fully dried out, particularly in seepage zones.
Yesterday saw 20.2°C peak temperatures with humidity as low as 41% and easterly winds, providing an excellent drying window for exposed surfaces.
The sea-level coastal location is subject to rapid humidity changes and marine moisture, which can quickly make limestone greasy.
Recommendations
3
- Visit during the warmest, lowest-humidity part of the day and physically touch holds to check for greasiness before committing to routes.
- Prioritise overhanging and cave features which will have stayed driest, but be aware that high humidity can still make these holds slippery.
- Check the BMC RAD and local access information for any bird nesting restrictions or seal-related closures before travelling.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
8 days ago
After a scattered wet period (1.0mm yesterday, 3.7mm two days ago), today is dry with moderate temperatures and dropping humidity (67%), but the north-facing aspect and limestone's tendency to hold seepage mean residual dampness in pockets and caves is likely. Conditions are promising but should be verified on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces wind-driven drying despite the partial exposure rating — the recent W/SW winds may not have reached the crag face effectively.
- The cave and roof features that characterise this venue can harbour persistent seepage and condensation even after surface rock appears dry, especially after the 57.7mm received over the past 28 days.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early April, meaning any moisture on the rock relies entirely on wind and ambient warmth for drying — yesterday's strong westerly wind (42.8 km/h) will have helped but is not a substitute for solar heating.
- CRITICAL ACCESS NOTE: Seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; the crag is currently accessible but climbers should verify current status before visiting, and bird nesting restrictions (peregrine/raven) may also apply — check BMC RAD.
Warnings
2
- Seal breeding access restrictions apply August–December — verify current access status with the BMC or local information before visiting.
- Bird nesting restrictions may be in effect at this time of year — check BMC Regional Access Database before your visit.
Reasoning
Light but frequent precipitation over the past two weeks (8.1mm in 7 days across multiple days) means limestone seepage lines and pockets are likely still weeping, despite surface rock potentially feeling dry.
Only one full dry day so far, and the north-facing aspect gets no meaningful solar input in early spring; the strong winds yesterday (42.8 km/h W) provided good evaporative drying of exposed surfaces, but sheltered cave interiors will have benefited far less.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern at this venue.
Early spring in North Wales brings cool temperatures, high background humidity, and limited solar angles — north-facing coastal limestone at sea level will retain moisture longer than summer conditions would suggest.
Contributing Factors
7
Scattered rain on multiple recent days (4.9mm on Mar 29, 3.7mm on Apr 4, 1.0mm yesterday) means limestone seepage has been repeatedly recharged.
Today is forecast dry with 16.3°C max and 67% humidity, providing good drying conditions for exposed surfaces.
The north aspect receives negligible direct sun in early April, severely limiting solar drying of the rock surface and any seepage.
The crag's shelter from westerly winds — the dominant direction recently — means wind-assisted drying has been less effective than the raw wind speed data suggests.
Humidity at 67% today is the lowest in over a week, reducing the risk of limestone becoming greasy from atmospheric moisture.
Limestone becomes extremely greasy with even light dampness or elevated humidity, and pockets and tufas can retain moisture for days after rain.
Yesterday's 42.8 km/h westerly winds would have provided significant evaporative drying to any exposed surfaces, though cave features remain sheltered.
Recommendations
3
- Visually inspect rock surfaces and test friction on lower holds before committing to any route — limestone can appear dry while retaining a greasy film.
- Prioritise exposed wall routes over cave and roof problems, as sheltered features will have retained more moisture from the recent wet spell.
- Check BMC RAD for any current bird nesting restrictions on Angel Bay before visiting, as peregrine and raven nesting season is underway.
Do Not Climb
40%
9 days ago
Angel Bay has received frequent light-to-moderate rain over the past week (8.5mm in 7 days), with 1.1mm today and zero consecutive dry days. Although strong westerly winds today (43 km/h) and dropping humidity (64%) will help surface drying, the north-facing aspect, limestone's tendency to become greasy in damp conditions, and the pattern of persistent moisture make it advisable to wait for a more sustained dry spell.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, meaning today's strong W winds may not fully reach the crag faces, reducing effective drying.
- The cave and roof features at Angel Bay can trap humidity and retain seepage long after surface rock appears dry, making pockets and tufas particularly treacherous.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early April, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient conditions — a significant disadvantage given recent rain.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; access is currently permitted in April but climbers should verify current status before visiting as dates can shift.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be greasy today — climbing on damp limestone poses a significant slip/fall risk.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; always verify current access status before visiting.
Reasoning
With 1.1mm of rain today, 3.7mm yesterday, and 1.7mm the day before, the rock surfaces are likely still damp, and limestone pockets and seepage lines will be holding moisture.
Strong westerly winds (43 km/h) and relatively low humidity (64%) today provide some drying potential, but the sheltered, north-facing aspect limits wind reach and eliminates solar drying, meaning surfaces will dry slowly.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so there is no hold-breakage concern from climbing on damp rock — the primary risk is reduced friction and greasy conditions.
Early April in North Wales is a transitional period with unpredictable weather; the north-facing aspect at sea level means very limited solar gain, and the recent pattern of frequent light rain is typical for spring.
Contributing Factors
7
Rain has fallen on 5 of the last 7 days totalling 8.5mm, with no consecutive dry days, keeping the rock in a persistently damp state.
Light rain today means surfaces are freshly wetted and have had no opportunity to fully dry.
Winds of 43 km/h from the west today will help evaporate surface moisture where they can reach the rock.
Today's humidity of 64% is the lowest in recent weeks, aiding evaporation and reducing greasy conditions.
The north-facing orientation receives no direct sun in early April, and the sheltered position behind the Little Orme reduces wind-assisted drying at the crag.
Limestone becomes extremely greasy with even light surface dampness or elevated humidity, making marginal conditions particularly dangerous.
Cave and roof features at Angel Bay trap humid air and can retain seepage for days after rain, even when open walls appear dry.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 2 consecutive fully dry days before visiting, ideally with sustained wind and humidity below 70%.
- If you do visit, inspect holds carefully for residual moisture — limestone can appear dry while still being dangerously greasy, especially in pockets and cave features.
- Check the BMC RAD for any seasonal bird nesting restrictions, and confirm current grey seal access status before making the trip.
Do Not Climb
40%
10 days ago
Angel Bay has received 2.7mm of rain today and has had frequent light precipitation over the past week (11.3mm in 7 days), with no consecutive dry days. The north-facing aspect, cave/pocket features that trap moisture, and moderately high humidity (76%) mean limestone surfaces are likely greasy and conditions are not suitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's caves, roofs, and pocket features can hold seepage and residual moisture for extended periods after the repeated light rain events seen over the past two weeks.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun in early spring, severely limiting natural drying — especially relevant given the persistent dampness pattern.
- The site is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces the drying benefit of today's strong SW winds despite the 46.8 km/h recorded speed.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions run August–December; access should currently be open in April, but climbers should verify current status before visiting as timings can vary.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely greasy today — attempting to climb risks serious injury from slipping on damp holds.
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; verify current access status before visiting as restrictions may be extended.
Reasoning
With 2.7mm of rain today and frequent light precipitation over the past week (no consecutive dry days), the rock surface is almost certainly damp, particularly in pockets, caves, and seepage lines.
Despite strong SW winds today (46.8 km/h), the sheltered north-facing aspect and lack of any dry spell mean meaningful drying has not occurred — limestone pockets and cave features will be retaining moisture.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage is not a primary concern; the risk is entirely about greasy friction and climber safety.
Early April in North Wales means low sun angles with negligible direct heating on north-facing rock, extended damp periods, and humidity levels that keep limestone greasy even between rain events.
Contributing Factors
6
2.7mm fell today with additional light rain on most days this past week, giving zero consecutive dry days and keeping surfaces persistently damp.
The north-facing orientation receives no meaningful direct sun in early spring, and the sheltered position reduces wind-assisted drying despite strong regional winds.
Average humidity of 76% over the past week, combined with today's 76%, keeps limestone surfaces greasy and inhibits evaporative drying.
Limestone becomes extremely slippery even in mildly damp or humid conditions, and Angel Bay's pockets and cave features trap moisture longer than open faces.
Tomorrow's 37.8 km/h westerly winds with lower humidity (64%) should begin meaningful drying, though one day may not be sufficient for sheltered cave features.
A sustained dry period is forecast from April 6 onwards with no precipitation, which should progressively improve conditions over several days.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock is almost certainly greasy from today's rain and the persistent damp pattern of recent weeks.
- Consider visiting from April 7 onwards once 2+ dry days have passed and humidity has had a chance to drop, but visually assess conditions on arrival.
- Check BMC RAD for any bird nesting restrictions and confirm seal colony access status before planning a visit.
Do Not Climb
40%
11 days ago
Angel Bay has received 3.8mm of rain today with high humidity (82%), and the north-facing aspect means minimal solar drying. The limestone will be greasy and conditions are not suitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces effective drying despite moderate wind speeds recorded at nearby stations — actual on-site airflow will be lower.
- The cave and roof problems at Angel Bay stay dry from direct rain but limestone becomes extremely greasy in the current high-humidity conditions (82%), making even sheltered features unreliable for friction.
- As a north-facing sea-level crag, Angel Bay receives virtually no direct sun in early spring, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both of which are marginal today.
- Seal breeding restrictions run August–December; the crag is currently accessible, but climbers should verify current status with the BMC or local signage before descending to the beach.
Warnings
3
- Limestone at Angel Bay becomes dangerously greasy in humid or damp conditions — falls from slippery holds are a real risk today.
- Access to the beach requires care on the descent path, which will be slippery after rain.
- Seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; always verify current access status before visiting.
Reasoning
With 3.8mm of rain today and zero consecutive dry days, surface moisture is present on exposed walls; pockets and tufa features will be holding water, and the limestone will be greasy.
The north-facing aspect receives no meaningful direct sun in early April, and although SW winds at 36.7 km/h are strong, the sheltered nature of Angel Bay means on-site drying will be significantly slower than weather station data suggests.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so there is no hold-breakage concern — the issue is purely friction and safety.
Early spring in North Wales brings persistent dampness, high humidity, and limited solar angles for north-facing crags; conditions typically improve significantly from May onward.
Contributing Factors
7
Active precipitation today means surfaces are wet and limestone will be greasy.
Humidity well above 75% causes limestone to feel slippery even where not directly wetted by rain.
No direct sun reaches the crag in early April, eliminating solar drying as a factor.
Despite strong SW winds regionally, Angel Bay's sheltered position beneath the Little Orme reduces effective airflow across the rock.
11mm in the last 7 days and 59mm in 28 days indicates persistent background moisture with seepage likely in cave features.
The 36.7 km/h SW wind will aid some surface evaporation on any exposed sections, though benefit is limited by shelter.
Temperatures around 14°C are reasonable for evaporation but insufficient to compensate for humidity and lack of sun.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock will be greasy from today's rain and high humidity; wait for a dry spell with lower humidity.
- The best conditions at Angel Bay come on dry days with humidity below 70% and ideally an easterly breeze to penetrate the sheltered bay.
- Check BMC Regional Access Database for any bird nesting restrictions on the Little Orme before visiting, particularly during the February–June peregrine season.
Climbing Outlook