Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Angel Bay has seen frequent rain over the past two weeks (42.5mm in 28 days) with today bringing further showers from late afternoon, and humidity is high (83% daily average). The north-facing aspect and sheltered position mean drying is slow, and limestone will be greasy in these conditions — we recommend waiting for a more settled spell.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerlies by the Little Orme headland, which reduces wind-assisted drying despite moderate overall exposure.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, so surface moisture and humidity-related greasiness persist far longer than at south-facing limestone venues.
- Cave and roof features can stay dry during light rain but become extremely slippery when ambient humidity exceeds ~75–80%, which has been the norm recently.
- Seal breeding restriction runs August–December; the crag is currently accessible (June) but climbers should verify current status before visiting as early closures can occur.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be dangerously greasy in current high-humidity conditions — falls on slippery holds are a real risk.
- Rain is forecast from late afternoon today; do not be caught out on routes as conditions will deteriorate rapidly after 17:00.
Reasoning
The rock has had no meaningful dry spell — 1.9mm today, 7.9mm on June 11, 9.6mm on June 8, and scattered showers throughout the past fortnight leave the limestone surface damp and likely greasy, especially on a north-facing cliff.
With a north aspect receiving minimal direct sun and the crag sheltered from the prevailing SW winds, drying is slow despite moderate wind speeds; the two dry days on June 12–13 were insufficient to fully dry seepage lines and pockets after the preceding wet period.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so hold breakage risk is not elevated, but surface friction is severely compromised by the persistent dampness and high humidity.
Early summer should offer improving conditions, but this has been an unusually unsettled spell with repeated frontal rain; the long days at least provide flexible timing windows if a dry afternoon emerges.
Contributing Factors
6
12.8mm in the last 7 days across multiple events with no consecutive dry spell longer than 2 days means the rock has not had time to fully dry.
Average humidity of 75% over the past week, with today reaching 83%, will keep limestone surfaces greasy even where not directly wet.
The north aspect receives negligible direct sun, dramatically slowing evaporation and prolonging surface dampness on the limestone.
The crag's shelter from prevailing westerlies reduces the wind-assisted drying that would otherwise help in the moderate breezes recorded.
Showers forecast from 17:00 onward today (1.9mm total) will re-wet surfaces and raise humidity to over 90% through the evening.
Humidity drops to around 60–62% between 12:00–13:00 with no rain, offering a brief window where conditions are less greasy, though residual dampness remains a concern.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2–3 days with humidity below 70% before visiting, as the limestone will remain greasy in current conditions.
- If determined to visit, target the midday window (roughly 11:00–15:00) when humidity is lowest, but be prepared to back off if holds feel slippery.
- Check the BMC RAD for any early seal-related access restrictions before planning a trip, even though the formal closure period begins in August.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
62%
2 days ago
After 4 consecutive dry days following a wet spell (7.9mm on June 11), the rock surface should be largely dry, but the north-facing aspect and recent high humidity mean seepage lines and sheltered caves may still hold moisture. Today's afternoon window (11:00–18:00) offers the best friction with humidity dropping to the mid-50s, but climbers should visually check holds before committing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — expect slower drying than south-facing limestone venues nearby.
- The caves and roof problems that define this venue can trap humid air and residual seepage even when open walls feel dry; pockets and tufas in overhanging sections are particularly prone to lingering moisture.
- The site is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces effective drying despite moderate wind exposure on paper.
- Seal breeding restrictions run August–December; June visits are currently permitted, but always verify current access status via the BMC RAD before travelling.
Warnings
2
- Seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; verify current access status on the BMC RAD before visiting.
- Heavy rain (8.3mm) is forecast for tomorrow (June 16), which will reset drying and likely make conditions unsuitable for several days.
Reasoning
The last significant rain was 7.9mm on June 11, followed by 4 dry days with moderate westerly winds, so exposed surfaces should be dry but sheltered caves and seepage lines on this north-facing crag may retain dampness.
Four dry days with strong winds (30–36 km/h on June 12–13) have aided surface drying, but the north aspect means no direct solar drying, and humidity has averaged 73% over the past week, limiting evaporation in recessed features.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so hold breakage risk is not elevated; the primary concern is greasy friction on damp surfaces.
Early-to-mid June offers long daylight hours and moderate temperatures, but the recent unsettled pattern with frequent showers has kept background moisture levels elevated across North Wales.
Contributing Factors
6
No rain since June 11, with strong winds on June 12–13 (36 and 30 km/h) accelerating surface drying.
The crag receives no direct sunlight, so drying depends entirely on wind and ambient temperature, significantly slowing evaporation.
Over 40mm in the last 28 days with rain on 10 of the last 14 days means the ground and cliff are saturated, feeding persistent seepage.
Humidity falls to 54–58% between 13:00–17:00 today, offering a window of improved friction on exposed limestone.
The venue is tucked behind the Little Orme headland and sheltered from the prevailing SW/W winds that have dominated recently, reducing effective drying.
8.3mm forecast for June 16 followed by further rain on June 18–19 means today may be the only viable window this week.
Recommendations
3
- Target the afternoon window between 11:00 and 18:00 today when humidity is lowest (mid-50s) for the best friction on exposed walls.
- Physically test holds for greasiness before committing to harder routes — caves and roofs may feel slippery even if open faces are dry.
- Bring a towel and soft brush to clean holds, and be prepared to back off if friction feels poor, especially on the steeper cave problems.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
3 days ago
After 3 dry days following a wet spell (nearly 22mm in the last 7 days including 7.9mm on June 11), the north-facing limestone at Angel Bay should be surface-dry on exposed faces, but seepage lines and sheltered cave features may still be damp. Humidity levels in the forecast period (77–91%) will limit friction quality on the limestone, so climbers should visually assess conditions on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, significantly slowing evaporation after the recent wet spell — seepage from the grassy headland above can persist for days.
- The sheltered cave and roof problems may have stayed dry during recent rain but high ambient humidity (74–91%) can make limestone holds greasy even without direct wetting.
- The crag is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, reducing the wind-drying benefit despite moderate to strong SW/W winds in the area.
- Grey seal breeding restriction runs August–December; the crag is currently accessible (June) but climbers should verify current access status before visiting as early closures can occur.
Warnings
2
- Grey seal breeding restriction applies August–December; verify current access status with Natural Resources Wales or the BMC RAD before visiting, as early closures may be imposed.
- Limestone becomes dangerously greasy in high humidity — friction can drop without warning even on apparently dry rock.
Reasoning
The 7.9mm on June 11 followed by 3 dry days and strong winds (30–36 km/h) should have cleared surface moisture on exposed walls, but the north-facing aspect and shelter from wind mean pockets and seepage bands may still hold dampness.
Three dry days with strong westerly winds have aided surface drying, but the north aspect receives no meaningful direct sun, and the crag's sheltered position reduces effective wind exposure — drying will be slower than aspect and wind data alone suggest.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, so hold breakage from moisture is not a concern at this venue.
Early summer provides long daylight hours and reasonable temperatures, but the recent unsettled pattern with frequent showers and elevated humidity (74%+ average) is typical of a cooler-than-average June in North Wales.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 22mm fell in the last 7 days including 7.9mm on June 11 and 9.6mm on June 8, feeding seepage lines from the grassy headland above.
No precipitation since June 12 allows exposed surfaces to shed standing water and begin drying.
The north aspect receives minimal direct sunlight, substantially slowing evaporation compared to south- or west-facing crags.
Humidity today is 77% and forecast to remain 70–91% over the next 5 days, which will make limestone surfaces greasy and reduce friction.
Winds of 30–36 km/h over June 12–13 will have helped surface drying on exposed faces, though the crag's sheltered position limits this benefit.
Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, meaning the moderate-to-strong winds recorded at nearby stations may not reach the crag face effectively.
Recommendations
3
- Visually inspect holds and test friction on lower problems before committing to anything committing — greasy limestone in high humidity is a significant slip hazard.
- Target exposed wall problems rather than deep cave or pocket-heavy routes, as sheltered features will retain moisture and seepage longest.
- Consider visiting early morning before humidity rises, and bring a towel to dry holds gently if light surface condensation is present.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
55%
4 days ago
After a wet recent period (22mm in the last 7 days including 7.9mm on June 11), Angel Bay has had only two dry days with moderate westerly winds. The north-facing aspect and sheltered position mean drying has been slow, and while surfaces may be approaching climbable condition on exposed faces, seepage and greasy patches in caves and recesses are likely.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's caves and roof problems are sheltered from rain but trap humidity, making limestone holds greasy even when technically dry — low-humidity days are essential for good friction in these features.
- The north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, so drying relies entirely on wind and ambient temperature; the partial shelter from prevailing westerlies further slows this process.
- Significant grey seal breeding restriction applies August to December — currently outside the restricted period (June), but climbers should verify current access status via BMC RAD before visiting.
- Seepage from the Little Orme headland above can persist for days after rain, creating wet streaks on otherwise dry-looking walls — check for damp bands at the top of routes.
Warnings
3
- Grey seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; check BMC RAD for current access status even outside these months.
- Limestone at Angel Bay becomes extremely greasy in damp conditions — a fall risk exists even when rock appears visually dry.
- Tidal access may be required for some sea-level problems; check tide times before descending.
Reasoning
With 7.9mm on June 11 and smaller amounts on June 9–10, the rock has had only two full dry days (June 12–13); north-facing limestone in a sheltered cove will still retain surface moisture in pockets, cracks, and seepage lines.
Strong westerly winds (28–36 km/h) over the last two days have aided surface drying, but the sheltered nature of the bay and north aspect mean wind effect is reduced at the cliff face itself.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, so hold integrity is not a concern — the risk is purely friction-related greasiness.
Early summer conditions are generally favourable for drying, but the recent unsettled spell with frequent showers has kept humidity elevated (74% average over 7 days), slowing evaporation from the rock.
Contributing Factors
6
22mm in the last 7 days including a significant 7.9mm event just two days ago means the rock and surrounding ground are still moisture-laden.
Two consecutive dry days is marginal for a north-facing sheltered limestone cove to fully dry, especially after repeated wetting events.
Westerly winds of 28–36 km/h over the last two days will have accelerated surface drying on any exposed faces.
The north aspect receives no direct sun and the sheltered cove position reduces effective wind exposure at the rock face, significantly slowing drying.
Today's humidity at 69% is acceptable but the 7-day average of 74% indicates persistently moist air that inhibits limestone friction.
The Little Orme headland above saturates during wet spells, and seepage lines can weep onto the cliff face for days after rain ceases.
Recommendations
3
- Visit today or tomorrow if you must, but visually and physically check all holds for greasiness before committing — be prepared to walk away if friction feels poor.
- Prioritise any south- or west-facing walls and avoid deep cave and roof problems where trapped humidity will make holds slippery.
- Consider waiting until after the current dry spell extends to 3–4 days (June 14–15) for better friction, but be aware that rain returns on June 16.
Do Not Climb
45%
5 days ago
Angel Bay has experienced a prolonged unsettled spell with 23.8mm over the past 7 days, including 7.9mm just yesterday (June 11). Although today is dry with strong westerly winds, the north-facing aspect and sheltered beach setting mean drying will be slow, and residual moisture is very likely on seepage lines and in cave features.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, meaning today's strong W winds may not reach the climbing surfaces effectively despite the 'partial' exposure rating.
- The cave and roof problems that characterise the venue can hold humidity and condensation even when it hasn't rained directly — the 75% average humidity over the last week will keep these features greasy.
- North-facing aspect at near sea level means virtually no direct sun to aid drying; limestone here relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature to shed moisture.
- Seal breeding restrictions begin in August — currently outside the restricted period, but always check the BMC RAD for any early closures or updated access guidance before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely greasy in current conditions — high risk of slipping off holds even if surfaces appear dry.
- Do not rely on cave features being dry just because they are sheltered from direct rain; humidity-driven condensation is the primary issue at this venue.
Reasoning
With 7.9mm on June 11, 2.6mm on June 10, and 9.6mm on June 8, the rock has had only one dry day and is almost certainly still damp, particularly in sheltered cave features and north-facing walls.
Today's strong westerly wind (32.8 km/h) will help exposed surfaces, but the sheltered, north-facing nature of Angel Bay limits effective drying — likely needing 2–3 dry days with moderate wind to clear residual moisture from this recent wet spell.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but greasy holds on this rock type in current humidity levels (74% today) present a significant slip hazard.
Early June should offer reasonable drying conditions, but this has been an unusually wet and cool spell for the time of year, keeping ambient humidity elevated and suppressing the drying advantage of longer daylight hours.
Contributing Factors
6
23.8mm in the last 7 days including 7.9mm yesterday means the rock is almost certainly still carrying significant surface and subsurface moisture.
Just one consecutive dry day is insufficient to dry a north-facing, sheltered limestone venue after this volume of recent rain.
The north-facing orientation and shelter from westerly winds behind the Little Orme headland severely limit solar and wind-driven drying.
32.8 km/h westerly wind today will help dry any exposed surfaces, though effectiveness is reduced by the sheltered setting.
Average humidity of 75% over the past week and 74% today keeps limestone greasy and prevents effective evaporation from cave and overhang features.
Angel Bay's characteristic cave and roof problems trap humidity and seepage, requiring longer drying times than open walls.
Recommendations
3
- Wait at least 2–3 full dry days before visiting; the earliest realistic window would be June 14 if forecasts hold, but visually assess rock on arrival.
- If visiting, prioritise any south-facing or wind-exposed surfaces and avoid cave and roof problems which will retain moisture longest.
- Check the BMC RAD for current access status — while seal restrictions formally begin in August, early closures can occur.
Do Not Climb
85%
6 days ago
Angel Bay is currently wet and greasy following 7.6mm of rain today on top of a very unsettled week (24mm in 7 days). The north-facing aspect, high humidity (86%+), and persistent cloud cover mean the limestone will be extremely slippery and conditions are unsuitable for climbing today.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow across the rock and significantly slows drying on the north-facing walls.
- The cave and roof features can stay dry during direct rain but become greasy in sustained high humidity — with humidity consistently above 85% today, even sheltered overhangs will feel slick.
- Seepage from the grassy headland above can persist for days after heavy rain, and the 24mm received in the past week will feed weep lines across multiple sections of the crag.
- Access is currently permitted (June is outside the August–December seal breeding restriction), but always check the latest BMC RAD guidance before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Limestone is extremely greasy when damp — a fall risk exists even on moderate routes if the surface has not fully dried.
- Seepage from the headland above may persist for several days even after rain stops; watch for wet streaks on the upper sections of routes.
Reasoning
The rock is wet from today's persistent rain (7.6mm spread across the morning hours) compounding a week of frequent showers totalling 24mm, leaving the limestone thoroughly saturated on the surface and in pockets.
The north-facing aspect receives minimal direct sun, and while there is moderate wind (SW ~25–30 km/h), the sheltered position of the bay limits its drying benefit; with humidity above 85%, evaporation is negligible.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but the greasy surface presents a serious slip hazard on both vertical walls and roof problems.
Early June should offer reasonable conditions, but this unsettled Atlantic pattern with frequent fronts has kept the crag persistently damp — a sustained dry spell is needed to reset conditions.
Contributing Factors
6
7.6mm of rain fell primarily through the morning, leaving all surfaces wet and pockets full of standing water.
24mm over the past 7 days with rain on 6 of 7 days means the rock has had no opportunity to dry out between showers.
Humidity has been 85–94% through the day with 100% cloud cover, preventing any meaningful evaporation from the rock surface.
The north-facing orientation and sheltered bay position mean Angel Bay receives almost no direct sun, greatly extending drying times.
Winds of 25–30 km/h from the SW provide some surface drying potential, though the sheltered position of the bay limits this benefit.
After tomorrow's 1.5mm, the forecast shows dry conditions from June 13–17 which should allow gradual improvement.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Angel Bay today — the limestone is wet and greasy from today's rain and the preceding unsettled week.
- Consider waiting until at least June 14 or 15 to allow the rock to dry, then visually assess conditions on arrival, paying particular attention to seepage lines and pocket moisture.
- If visiting later this week, prioritise the steeper cave and roof problems which shed water fastest, but check friction carefully before committing to moves.
Do Not Climb
70%
8 days ago
Angel Bay has seen frequent rain over the past 10 days (~34mm) with more forecast today and through midweek, and the north-facing aspect severely limits drying. While there is a potential dry window this afternoon (roughly 09:00–15:00), the rock is likely still damp from overnight and early-morning showers, and humidity remains high, making limestone friction unreliable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerly winds by the Little Orme headland, which reduces airflow across the crag and slows drying significantly despite the site's partial wind exposure rating.
- The cave and roof features can remain damp for days after rain due to seepage through the limestone above; pockets and tufas trap moisture even when exposed faces appear dry.
- The north-facing aspect at just 10m altitude means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both currently marginal.
- Seal breeding restrictions apply August–December; the crag is currently accessible in June, but always confirm current access status via the BMC RAD before visiting.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely greasy in current damp, humid conditions — fall risk is significantly elevated.
- Further rain is forecast today from 16:00 onwards and again tomorrow; do not rely on the brief dry window for meaningful drying.
Reasoning
With 26.3mm in the last 7 days, rain earlier today, and overnight showers, the rock surface is almost certainly damp, especially in sheltered pockets and cave features.
The north-facing aspect receives negligible direct sun, and while moderate westerly winds help, the sheltered nature of the bay limits their effect — meaningful drying would require at least 2–3 consecutive dry days with low humidity.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but greasy surfaces and slippery holds present a significant fall risk when damp.
Early June should offer reasonable conditions, but this particular spell has been unusually wet and cool for the season, with temperatures well below average and persistent high humidity.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 26mm in the past 7 days across multiple rain events, with further rain today (6.2mm), means the rock has had no opportunity to fully dry.
The north-facing orientation and sheltered bay position mean virtually no direct sunlight reaches the rock, dramatically slowing evaporation.
Average humidity of 75% over the past week, with today peaking around 88%, keeps limestone greasy and prevents effective surface drying.
Westerly winds of 25–33 km/h provide some surface drying, though the sheltered bay position reduces their effectiveness.
Further rain is forecast on June 10 (3.5mm) and June 11 (5.1mm), preventing any sustained drying period in the near term.
A dry spell from roughly 06:00–15:00 today offers some surface drying, but this is insufficient to dry the rock after overnight and early-morning rain.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2–3 days with lower humidity before visiting; the rock is unlikely to offer reliable friction in current conditions.
- If you do visit, the cave and roof features may be drier than open walls — but test holds carefully for greasy residue before committing to anything committing.
- Check the BMC RAD for the latest access information and confirm seal breeding restrictions are not yet in effect.
Do Not Climb
40%
9 days ago
Heavy rain early this morning (12.6mm today) on top of a wet week (23.7mm in 7 days) means the north-facing limestone at Angel Bay will be damp and greasy. Although the afternoon looks dry with dropping humidity, the rock has not had adequate drying time and friction will be poor.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay is north-facing and sheltered from prevailing westerlies by the Little Orme headland, meaning it receives virtually no direct sun and dries very slowly after rain.
- The cave and roof features that characterise the venue can hold seepage and drips for days after wet spells, even when exposed faces appear superficially dry.
- Seal breeding season access restriction runs August–December; the crag is currently open but climbers should check the BMC RAD for any early-season closures.
- The approach involves a steep descent to beach level — wet grass and muddy paths after recent rain add objective hazard beyond the rock conditions themselves.
Warnings
2
- Limestone becomes extremely slippery when damp — even if the surface appears dry, residual moisture in pockets and on shaded faces will reduce friction significantly.
- The approach path will be slippery after recent rain; take care on the descent to the beach.
Reasoning
With 12.6mm of rain today (mostly 03:00–06:00), 23.7mm in the past week, and consistently elevated humidity (76% average), the rock surface will be wet and limestone pockets and seepage lines will be holding moisture.
The north-facing aspect receives no direct sun, and while moderate westerly winds help surface drying, the sheltered position of Angel Bay limits airflow; meaningful drying from this morning's heavy rain will take at least 24–48 hours in these conditions.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening when wet, but surface friction is dramatically reduced on damp limestone, making slips and falls a significant safety concern.
Early June should offer reasonable drying potential, but the current unsettled spell with repeated rain events and above-average humidity is preventing the rock from drying out between showers.
Contributing Factors
6
12.6mm fell mostly between 03:00 and 06:00 this morning, thoroughly wetting all rock surfaces.
23.7mm over the past 7 days with no consecutive dry days means the rock has had no chance to fully dry out.
The north-facing orientation and shelter from the headland mean virtually no direct sun reaches the rock, severely slowing evaporation.
Humidity is forecast to drop to around 50% this afternoon with moderate wind, which will begin surface drying.
The 7-day average humidity of 76% keeps limestone greasy even between rain events, and forecast humidity remains 71–85% over the coming days.
4.6mm is forecast for June 9, followed by further rain on June 10 and 11, preventing any sustained drying period.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb today — the rock will be wet and greasy after this morning's heavy rain, and more rain is forecast for the next three days.
- The earliest realistic window may be June 12 or 13, but only if the forecast holds dry and humidity drops below 70%; visually assess conditions on arrival.
- If visiting the area, consider alternative south-facing or well-drained venues that will dry faster than this north-facing site.
Do Not Climb
85%
10 days ago
Angel Bay has received frequent light rain over the past week (17.3mm in 7 days across multiple days) with no meaningful dry spell, and today has further rain (0.8mm) with high humidity (75%). The north-facing aspect and sheltered position mean drying has been minimal, and the forecast shows heavy rain tomorrow (13.1mm) followed by more unsettled weather — conditions are clearly unsuitable.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay's north-facing aspect receives virtually no direct sun, meaning the recent sequence of intermittent rain and high humidity will have left surfaces persistently damp and greasy.
- The sheltered position beneath the Little Orme headland reduces the benefit of the moderate-to-strong SW/W winds that have been blowing, as the crag is shielded from prevailing westerlies.
- Cave and roof features at Angel Bay can retain seepage and drip for extended periods after rain, and the recent multi-day rainfall pattern will have saturated drainage lines above the crag.
- Seal breeding restrictions begin in August — currently outside the restricted period, but climbers should always check the latest BMC RAD access status before visiting.
Warnings
3
- Limestone at Angel Bay will be extremely greasy after persistent rain and high humidity — risk of slipping on both wall and roof problems is high.
- Heavy rain forecast for tomorrow (13.1mm) and continued unsettled weather through the week will further saturate the crag.
- Seal breeding access restrictions apply August to December — always verify current status before visiting.
Reasoning
Multiple rain events over the past 10 days (0.5mm on 27th, 0.5mm on 28th, 0.7mm on 31st, 5.5mm on 1st, 0.6mm on 2nd, 1.1mm on 3rd, 7.0mm on 4th, 0.5mm on 5th, 1.8mm on 6th, 0.8mm today) with average humidity at 78% mean the rock is almost certainly damp, with pockets and cave features retaining moisture.
Despite moderate winds, the north-facing aspect receives no meaningful direct sun and the crag is sheltered from prevailing westerlies, so drying between rain events has been negligible — zero consecutive dry days confirms persistent dampness.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but the greasy surface conditions present a significant slip hazard on both vertical faces and roof problems.
Early June should offer reasonable conditions but this unsettled spell with frequent rain, cool temperatures (14–17°C), and high humidity is preventing adequate drying.
Contributing Factors
6
Rain has fallen on 9 of the last 11 days totalling 17.3mm with no consecutive dry days, keeping surfaces continuously damp.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week significantly impedes evaporation and keeps limestone surfaces greasy.
The north-facing orientation receives minimal direct sunlight, dramatically slowing any drying between rain events.
Although winds have been moderate to strong from the SW/W, Angel Bay is sheltered from prevailing westerlies, reducing wind-assisted drying.
13.1mm is forecast for tomorrow with further rain on subsequent days, ensuring conditions will worsen before they improve.
Temperatures averaging around 15°C are insufficient to drive rapid evaporation from shaded limestone surfaces.
Recommendations
3
- Do not visit Angel Bay in current conditions — the limestone will be greasy and dangerous; wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2–3 days with lower humidity.
- Consider alternative south-facing or well-exposed crags in the area that may have dried more effectively between rain events.
- Check the BMC RAD for the latest access information regarding seal breeding restrictions before planning any future visit.
Do Not Climb
70%
11 days ago
Angel Bay has received intermittent rain over the past week (16.5mm in 7 days) with more rain today and forecast daily through to June 11, and the north-facing aspect combined with high humidity (~77%) means the limestone is likely greasy. Conditions are not suitable for climbing today and the outlook for the coming days remains poor.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Angel Bay faces north and sits at the base of the Little Orme headland, receiving virtually no direct sun — moisture from rain and sea spray lingers significantly longer than at south-facing venues nearby.
- The sheltered cave and roof features stay dry from direct rain but become extremely greasy when ambient humidity is high, as it has been consistently (77% average over the past week).
- Seepage from the grassy headland above can persist for days after rain, creating wet streaks on the walls even when it hasn't rained directly on the cliff face.
- The venue is a significant grey seal breeding site with access restricted August to December — currently outside the restriction window, but climbers should check the BMC RAD for any early closures.
Warnings
2
- Limestone at Angel Bay becomes dangerously greasy in humid and damp conditions — falls are more likely when friction is compromised even if the rock appears visually dry.
- Seepage from the headland above can make sections of cliff wet and slippery even on days without direct rain.
Reasoning
With 1.1mm today, 7mm yesterday, and multiple rain days in the past week totalling 16.5mm, the rock surface is almost certainly damp, compounded by 78% humidity and zero consecutive dry days.
The north-facing aspect receives no meaningful direct sun, and while moderate SW/W winds help surface drying somewhat, the sheltered beach-level position and persistent high humidity (~77%) severely limit effective drying between rain events.
Limestone does not suffer structural weakening from moisture, but the greasy surface friction loss on damp limestone presents a significant safety hazard, especially on the slab and wall routes.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this unsettled spell with daily rain and above-average humidity is more typical of an Atlantic-influenced spring pattern, and the north aspect means the crag misses out on the longer daylight drying benefit.
Contributing Factors
6
16.5mm over the past 7 days with rain today and no consecutive dry days means the rock has had no opportunity to fully dry.
Average humidity of 77% over the past week keeps limestone surfaces greasy even between showers, drastically reducing friction.
The north-facing orientation receives no direct sun, meaning moisture from rain, seepage, and humidity persists far longer than at south-facing crags.
Partial wind exposure with moderate-to-strong SW/W winds provides some surface drying benefit, but Angel Bay's sheltered position at the base of the headland limits airflow to the cliff faces.
Rain soaking into the grassy headland above produces seepage lines that weep onto the cliff face for days after significant rainfall.
Rain is forecast every day from June 7–11 (totalling ~11.5mm), preventing any meaningful drying window in the near term.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 2–3 days with lower humidity before visiting, as the north-facing limestone needs extended drying time.
- If visiting the area, consider south-facing limestone alternatives on the Great Orme which will dry significantly faster in current conditions.
- Check the BMC RAD for any early seal-related access restrictions before planning a trip, even though the formal August–December closure has not yet begun.
Climbing Outlook