Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Caley Crags is currently wet and unsuitable for climbing. Today has seen ~6mm of rain on top of a very wet fortnight (55mm in 28 days), and the NW-facing woodland setting means drying will be exceptionally slow; further rain is forecast throughout the coming week, offering no meaningful drying window.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields rock from wind and sun, significantly prolonging drying times compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The Roadside Boulders sit low among trees and can hold seepage and ground moisture for days after rain; the Main Crag higher up may dry marginally faster but still suffers from the NW aspect.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives almost no direct sunlight until late evening in summer — the primary drying mechanism is wind evaporation, which is limited by the partial shelter.
- With 55mm of cumulative rain over 28 days and no prolonged dry spell, the gritstone is likely saturated well beyond the surface — internal moisture will persist even if surfaces briefly appear dry.
Warnings
2
- Gritstone at Caley is almost certainly deeply saturated — surface dryness during brief afternoon windows does NOT indicate safe conditions internally.
- Climbing on wet gritstone risks permanent, irreversible damage to Caley's delicate holds and classic problems.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly saturated internally given 6mm of rain today, 10.6mm on June 11, and a cumulative 55mm over 28 days with no dry spell longer than 2–3 days.
The NW aspect and woodland shelter severely limit solar drying, and while moderate westerly winds help, humidity has averaged 80% over the past week — net evaporation rates will be very low.
Gritstone at this saturation level will have lost a significant proportion of its compressive strength; climbing risks permanent hold breakage and accelerated erosion on Caley's famously delicate features.
June should offer reasonable drying potential, but this has been an unusually wet period with below-average temperatures (~13°C average over the last week), limiting the seasonal advantage.
Contributing Factors
7
55mm over 28 days with 6mm today alone means the gritstone has had no opportunity to dry out properly.
Zero consecutive dry days heading into today, with rain falling on most days over the past two weeks.
The north-west facing aspect receives almost no direct sunlight, removing the most effective drying mechanism.
The classic woodland setting reduces airflow and traps humid air against the rock surface, greatly slowing evaporation.
Average humidity of 80% over the past week with 87% today severely limits the rate of moisture evaporation from the rock.
Partial wind exposure provides some drying assistance, but the woodland canopy reduces its effectiveness at rock level.
Rain is forecast on four of the next five days (totalling ~14mm), preventing any meaningful drying window from developing.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley Crags this week — the rock is saturated and further rain will prevent adequate drying.
- Consider alternative non-porous venues (limestone, whinstone) if you need a climbing fix in the coming days.
- Monitor conditions after June 22 — if the forecast dry spell materialises, a 48–72 hour dry window with lower humidity could bring conditions back into assessable territory.
Previous Analyses
Do Not Climb
75%
2 days ago
Caley Crags has received frequent rain over the past two weeks (~49mm in 28 days, 16.5mm in the last 7 days alone) with the most recent significant fall of 10.6mm on June 11th followed by further light showers on the 12th, 13th, and today. The NW aspect, woodland setting, and persistent high humidity (78% average) mean the gritstone is very unlikely to have dried adequately, and further rain is forecast from tomorrow onwards.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and sun, significantly slowing drying — the Roadside Boulders in particular sit in deep tree cover.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight, so drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature rather than solar heating.
- The Main Crag higher up the hill may catch slightly more breeze than the sheltered Roadside Boulders, but both areas will be slow to dry after this prolonged wet spell.
- Many of Caley's classic problems feature delicate slopers and tenuous slab moves where even marginal dampness dramatically increases the risk of hold breakage and polishing on this soft gritstone.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on this gritstone now risks permanent hold breakage — Caley's delicate slopers and thin edges are especially vulnerable when internally damp.
- The rock surface may appear dry in sheltered spots but internal moisture from weeks of repeated wetting is almost certainly still present.
Reasoning
With 10.6mm on June 11th and additional light rain on the 12th, 13th, and today (June 15th), the rock has had no meaningful continuous dry spell — internal moisture levels are almost certainly elevated despite the surface potentially appearing dry in places.
Only 1.5 dry days since the last significant rain on June 11th (with further trace amounts since), combined with the NW aspect, woodland shelter, and 72–78% humidity means drying has been very slow and insufficient for porous gritstone.
The cumulative ~49mm over 28 days with repeated wetting cycles means the gritstone is likely holding significant internal moisture, raising the risk of grain loosening and hold breakage — particularly on Caley's characteristically delicate features.
Mid-June temperatures (12–17°C) are moderate but the persistent cloud cover, high humidity, and lack of direct sun on this NW face negate the seasonal advantage that summer would normally provide.
Contributing Factors
6
49.4mm over 28 days with repeated wetting events means the rock has been near-continuously damp, preventing thorough internal drying.
10.6mm fell on June 11th with further light showers on the 12th, 13th, and today, giving no sustained dry window for recovery.
The NW-facing aspect receives minimal direct sunlight and the woodland setting traps humidity, making Caley one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in the area.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week with overnight values reaching 90%+ severely limits evaporative drying potential.
Westerly winds of 20–30 km/h have provided some drying assistance, but the woodland canopy reduces effective airflow at rock level.
4.8mm forecast for tomorrow (June 16th) followed by light showers on the 17th–20th will reset any drying progress.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for a sustained dry spell of at least 3–4 days given the prolonged recent saturation and Caley's slow-drying characteristics.
- If visiting during a future dry window, check the base of the boulders — if the ground and leaf litter are damp, the rock is almost certainly still wet internally.
- Consider faster-drying south-facing or exposed limestone venues in the Yorkshire Dales as an alternative during this unsettled period.
Do Not Climb
30%
3 days ago
Caley Crags has received nearly 25mm of rain in the last 7 days, including 10.6mm just three days ago, with only one full dry day since. The NW aspect, woodland setting, and elevated humidity mean the gritstone is almost certainly still holding significant internal moisture despite any surface drying.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and sun, significantly slowing drying compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sunlight until late evening in summer, making it one of the slowest-drying gritstone crags in the area.
- The split between Roadside Boulders (lower, more sheltered) and Main Crag (higher, slightly more exposed) means drying rates vary — the Roadside boulders will be wetter for longer.
- After the prolonged wet spell from June 1–13 (nearly 50mm total over the month), even upper surfaces and overhanging features may retain internal moisture given the consistently high humidity.
Warnings
2
- Caley's famous slopers and delicate holds are at serious risk of breakage on saturated gritstone — climbing now could cause permanent, irreversible damage to classic problems.
- The rock surface may feel dry to the touch while the interior remains heavily saturated; do not rely on surface feel alone.
Reasoning
With 10.6mm on June 11, 1.7mm on June 12, and 0.3mm on June 13, the rock has had barely one dry day and is very likely still saturated internally, especially given 78% average humidity over the last week.
The NW aspect and woodland canopy severely limit both solar heating and airflow at the rock surface; despite moderate westerly winds aloft, effective drying at crag level will be slow, and one dry day is wholly insufficient after this volume of rain.
Gritstone at this level of likely saturation will have lost a substantial proportion of its compressive strength, and the delicate slopers and fragile holds Caley is known for are at real risk of breakage.
Early June temperatures around 12–17°C are moderate but not warm enough to drive rapid evaporation, and the prolonged unsettled spell since June 1 has kept the rock in a persistently damp state with no meaningful drying window.
Contributing Factors
6
24.6mm in the last 7 days including a 10.6mm event on June 11 means significant water has been absorbed into the porous gritstone.
Just one full dry day since the last significant rain is far short of the 48–72+ hours needed after heavy rain on gritstone.
The north-west facing, wooded setting receives minimal direct sun and reduced wind at rock level, greatly prolonging drying times.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week severely limits evaporation rates from the rock surface.
Winds of 20–30 km/h are present but the woodland canopy limits their drying effect at crag level.
Nearly 50mm over the past 28 days with rain on most days since June 1 means the rock has had no opportunity to fully dry out, creating deep internal saturation.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of dry weather with humidity below 70% before visiting — the earliest realistic window may be June 18–19 if the forecast holds.
- If visiting in the coming days, consider non-porous alternatives such as limestone or whinstone venues that are less affected by recent rain.
- When conditions do improve, prioritise the Main Crag higher up the hill, which will dry faster than the more sheltered Roadside Boulders.
Do Not Climb
80%
4 days ago
Caley Crags has experienced a prolonged unsettled period with 25.3mm in the last 7 days, including 10.6mm on June 11th, and has had zero consecutive dry days. The NW-facing, woodland-sheltered gritstone will be retaining significant internal moisture despite any surface drying, and conditions are not suitable for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and blocks airflow at the Roadside Boulders especially, meaning these lower problems dry significantly slower than the more exposed Main Crag higher up the hill.
- The NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock until late afternoon/evening in summer, severely limiting solar-driven evaporation compared to south-facing gritstone venues.
- Slab problems — a Caley speciality — are particularly dangerous when gritstone is internally damp, as friction-dependent moves rely on dry surface texture that can fail catastrophically on weakened rock.
- Seepage and moss are common across many boulders due to the woodland canopy dripping and retaining moisture long after rain stops.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on Caley's gritstone in current conditions — repeated wetting over the past two weeks means internal saturation is high, risking permanent hold damage even if surfaces appear dry.
- The forecast shows further rain on June 17th (4.3mm) which will reset drying progress and extend the wait for safe conditions.
Reasoning
With 10.6mm on June 11th, smaller amounts on June 12th and 13th, and cumulative rainfall of 25.3mm over the past week, the gritstone will be significantly saturated internally despite any surface drying.
Zero consecutive dry days, NW aspect with minimal direct sun, woodland shelter reducing wind effect, and average humidity of 78% mean that drying has been negligible — the rock needs at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather from the last meaningful rain to begin approaching safe conditions.
Internal moisture levels are likely well above the critical threshold where significant strength loss occurs, posing real risk of hold breakage on gritstone that has been repeatedly wetted over the past two weeks.
Early June temperatures averaging only 12.3°C are below seasonal norms, slowing evaporation, though at least freeze-thaw risk is negligible at this time of year.
Contributing Factors
6
25.3mm over the last 7 days across multiple events (including 10.6mm on June 11th and 8.5mm on June 8th) has kept the rock in a near-continuously saturated state.
Today (June 13th) recorded 0.3mm, meaning there has been no unbroken dry spell to allow meaningful drying since the last heavy rain on June 11th.
The north-west facing aspect receives minimal direct sun and the woodland canopy further limits both solar heating and wind-driven evaporation at the rock surface.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week significantly reduces evaporation rates, keeping moisture locked in the porous gritstone.
Persistent westerly winds of 20–30 km/h provide some drying benefit, though this is partly negated by the woodland shelter at lower boulders.
Average temperatures of 12.3°C are below seasonal norms and limit the evaporation rate from the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather (0.0mm) with humidity below 70% before visiting — the earliest realistic window may be June 16th if forecasts hold, but more rain is predicted on June 17th.
- If you do visit after a dry spell, check the ground at the base of boulders: if soil and leaf litter are still damp, the rock is almost certainly too wet internally.
- Consider south-facing or limestone venues in the meantime, as Caley's NW aspect and woodland setting make it one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in the area.
Do Not Climb
90%
5 days ago
Caley Crags has received 34mm of rain over the past 7 days with 10.6mm just yesterday and further rain today — the rock will be thoroughly saturated internally. The NW aspect, woodland setting, and high humidity (~80%) mean drying will be extremely slow, and conditions are clearly unsuitable for climbing on gritstone.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and blocks airflow at the Roadside Boulders, significantly slowing drying compared to open-moor gritstone venues.
- The NW aspect means virtually no direct sun reaches the rock faces, so evaporative drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature — both currently marginal.
- The Main Crag higher up the hill may catch slightly more wind than the sheltered Roadside Boulders, but both areas will be holding substantial moisture after this prolonged wet spell.
- Caley's classic slabs and delicate holds are particularly vulnerable to grain loosening when wet — climbing on saturated gritstone here risks permanent damage to irreplaceable problems.
Warnings
2
- The rock surface may begin to look dry before the interior has dried — do not be fooled; after this volume of rain, internal saturation will persist for days.
- Caley's famous delicate slab holds are especially vulnerable to irreversible grain loosening when the rock is wet — climbing now could permanently destroy classic problems.
Reasoning
With 34mm in the past 7 days including 10.6mm yesterday and 1.8mm today, the rock is deeply saturated well beyond any surface-dry threshold, and internal moisture will be very high.
Zero consecutive dry days, NW aspect with no direct sun, woodland shelter, and 78–92% humidity over recent days mean drying has been negligible — the prolonged wet spell from June 1st onward has kept the rock continuously recharged.
At this saturation level, gritstone will have lost 30%+ compressive strength, and the delicate slab holds and aretes Caley is known for are at serious risk of breakage if climbed on.
Early June should be improving, but the recent pattern of repeated rainfall events every 1–2 days has prevented any meaningful drying window from establishing.
Contributing Factors
6
34mm over the past 7 days with rain on 7 of the last 12 days means the rock has been continuously recharged with no opportunity to dry internally.
10.6mm yesterday and 1.8mm today ensure the rock is freshly wetted on top of already saturated conditions — the drying clock has not even started.
The NW-facing aspect receives negligible direct sun and the woodland setting traps moist air, making Caley one of the slower-drying gritstone venues in the area.
Average humidity of 80% over the last 7 days severely limits evaporative drying, even where wind reaches the rock surface.
Sustained westerly winds of 20–30 km/h provide some drying assistance, particularly at the more exposed Main Crag higher up the hill.
Temperatures of 13–18°C are adequate for some evaporation but not warm enough to drive rapid drying, especially given the humidity levels.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today — the rock is saturated and climbing risks permanent damage to the gritstone and injury from hold breakage.
- Wait for at least 48–72 hours of genuinely dry weather with humidity below 70% before considering a visit; given the NW aspect and woodland, longer may be needed.
- If you need to climb this week, consider a non-porous alternative such as limestone at Kilnsey or whinstone — save the gritstone for when it's properly dry.
Do Not Climb
95%
6 days ago
Caley Crags is currently saturated after a prolonged wet spell totalling nearly 30mm over the past week, with 7.4mm of rain falling today in persistent showers. The NW-facing aspect, woodland setting, and high humidity mean meaningful drying has not occurred and will not begin until at least June 14th.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and sun, significantly slowing drying even in summer.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower and closer to the road with slightly more airflow, but the Main Crag higher up the hill is more sheltered by trees and can hold seepage for days after rain.
- NW-facing aspect means the crag receives no meaningful direct sun until long summer evenings — drying relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature.
- Gritstone slabs and delicate holds at Caley are especially vulnerable to grain loosening when wet; bold highball problems carry extra risk if a hold fails.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Caley's delicate slab holds and aretes are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has recovered adequate strength; do not rely on surface appearance alone.
- Highball problems at Caley carry compounded risk if holds fail due to internal moisture — the consequences of a fall from height onto woodland ground are serious.
Reasoning
The rock is almost certainly fully saturated: 29.7mm of rain in the last 7 days across multiple events with no consecutive dry days, culminating in 7.4mm today at 91% humidity.
With persistent rain through today, trace precipitation forecast for June 12–13, and NW aspect receiving minimal direct sun, effective drying cannot begin until June 14th at the earliest — meaning 48+ hours of genuine drying won't be achieved until June 16th.
After sustained wetting over the past 10 days the gritstone will have significant internal moisture, substantially reducing compressive strength and raising the risk of hold breakage on Caley's characteristically delicate features.
Although it is early summer, temperatures have been cool (averaging only 12°C over the past week) and humidity persistently high, both of which retard drying considerably.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 30mm has fallen in the past 7 days across six separate rain events, keeping the rock in a persistently saturated state with no opportunity to dry.
7.4mm of rain is falling today in near-continuous light showers from morning through evening, resetting any partial drying that may have occurred.
Humidity has averaged 79% over the past week and is 91% today, severely limiting evaporative drying from the rock surface.
The NW-facing crag in a wooded setting receives almost no direct sun and limited wind penetration, meaning drying relies on slow ambient evaporation.
Partial wind exposure with 20–30 km/h westerly winds will provide some drying assistance once rain stops, but tree cover limits this effect at the crag face.
Small amounts of precipitation (0.6mm and 0.3mm) are forecast for the next two days, further delaying the start of meaningful drying.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today or in the next two days — the rock is thoroughly wet and holds are at serious risk of breakage.
- The earliest realistic window for an on-site assessment is June 15th or 16th, after 48+ hours of genuinely dry weather with dropping humidity.
- If visiting on June 15–16, check the ground at the base of the crag and test sheltered areas for dampness before committing to any problems — surface-dry gritstone can still be dangerously weak internally.
Do Not Climb
95%
8 days ago
Caley Crags is currently saturated after a prolonged wet spell totalling over 30mm in the past week, with rain still falling today and more forecast through June 12th. The NW-facing, woodland-sheltered gritstone will need several consecutive dry days before it is safe to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting significantly reduces airflow and sun exposure at the rock surface, meaning drying times are considerably longer than for open moorland gritstone edges.
- The Roadside Boulders sit lower in the hillside and are more sheltered than the Main Crag — expect them to stay damp longest, especially around the base.
- NW aspect means direct sun only arrives in late afternoon/evening during summer, giving minimal solar drying benefit for most of the day.
- Seepage and retained moisture in the canopy above can drip onto problems long after rain has stopped, particularly on the Main Crag boulders beneath trees.
Warnings
3
- Climbing on saturated gritstone causes permanent hold breakage and irreversible route damage — Caley's delicate features are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry in sheltered spots while remaining deeply saturated internally; do not be deceived by surface appearance.
- Wet gritstone slabs and highballs at Caley pose severe injury risk due to dramatically reduced friction.
Reasoning
With 30.4mm of rain in the past 7 days across multiple events (including 8.9mm on June 6th, 8.5mm on June 8th, and 6.4mm today), the gritstone is deeply saturated with zero consecutive dry days to begin drying.
Despite moderate westerly winds (20–30 km/h), the NW aspect, woodland shelter, and high humidity (78% average over 7 days) severely limit drying; the rock has had no meaningful drying window since the wet spell began on June 1st.
With the rock at or near full saturation from repeated wetting over 9 days, compressive strength is reduced by an estimated 30%+ and holds are at significant risk of breakage, particularly on Caley's characteristically delicate slopers and edges.
Early June should offer reasonable drying conditions, but this unsettled spell with persistent rain and above-average humidity is preventing any recovery; temperatures around 13–17°C are adequate but insufficient alone to overcome the moisture load.
Contributing Factors
6
Over 30mm across six rain events since June 1st with no dry break means the gritstone is deeply and thoroughly saturated.
6.4mm forecast today with scattered showers throughout the morning and afternoon, adding further moisture to already saturated rock.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week with values reaching 86% severely limits evaporative drying potential.
The north-west facing, tree-sheltered setting receives minimal direct sun and reduced airflow, dramatically extending drying times.
Sustained westerly winds of 20–30 km/h provide some drying benefit, though this is partially negated by woodland shelter and high humidity.
Further rain is forecast on June 10th (4.9mm), 11th (3.6mm), and 12th (1.2mm), preventing any meaningful drying until at least June 13th.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today or in the coming days — the gritstone is deeply saturated and structurally compromised.
- Monitor conditions from June 14th onwards; if the dry spell holds and humidity drops, the Main Crag's upper problems may begin to come into condition.
- Consider visiting a non-porous alternative such as Almscliff (also gritstone — same restrictions apply) or limestone venues like Malham or Kilnsey which can be climbed when damp without structural damage.
Do Not Climb
90%
9 days ago
Caley Crags has received nearly 25mm of rain over the past 7 days, with further rain falling this morning and more forecast tomorrow. The NW-facing, wooded setting means drying will be very slow, and the rock is almost certainly saturated internally despite any surface drying this afternoon.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and sun, significantly prolonging drying times compared to open moorland gritstone edges.
- The Roadside Boulders sit low in the trees and tend to stay damp longer than the Main Crag higher up the hill, which gets marginally more air circulation.
- The NW aspect means the crag receives virtually no direct sun until late evening in summer, making it one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in the Wharfe valley.
- Seepage and capillary moisture from the hillside above can feed into the Main Crag boulders, keeping some problems damp even after extended dry spells.
Warnings
2
- Gritstone at Caley will be deeply saturated from repeated wetting — climbing risks permanent hold breakage and route damage.
- The rock surface may appear to dry during this afternoon's clearing, but internal moisture will remain dangerously high; do not be deceived by a dry-looking surface.
Reasoning
With 24.9mm over the past 7 days including rain this morning, the gritstone will be deeply saturated — well above the critical 1% threshold where significant weakening begins.
Despite moderate westerly wind this afternoon and dropping humidity (to ~45%), the NW-facing wooded setting will prevent effective drying; only a few hours of lower humidity cannot meaningfully dry porous gritstone that has been repeatedly wetted over a week.
At current saturation levels, compressive strength will be reduced by 30%+ and grain loosening makes hold breakage a real risk, particularly on Caley's characteristic delicate slopers and thin edges.
Early June conditions are reasonable for temperature but the recent unsettled spell has kept humidity high and temperatures below seasonal averages (~14°C), further slowing evaporation.
Contributing Factors
6
Nearly 25mm over the past week across multiple rain events means the rock has had no opportunity to dry between wettings, ensuring deep saturation.
4.4mm falling this morning and 5.9mm forecast tomorrow will re-wet any marginally drying surfaces and maintain full saturation.
The combination of north-west facing rock and dense tree cover means minimal direct sun and reduced airflow, making Caley one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues locally.
Westerly winds of 20-30 km/h would normally aid drying, but the sheltered woodland setting significantly reduces their effect at rock level.
Temperatures around 14-16°C are below June averages for Yorkshire, reducing evaporation rates.
Average humidity of 78% over the past week limits the air's capacity to absorb moisture from the rock surface.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley today or in the coming days — the rock is saturated and conditions are unsafe for gritstone.
- Wait for at least 48-72 hours of continuous dry weather with humidity below 70% before reassessing; given the woodland setting, longer may be needed.
- If you're keen to climb this week, consider a limestone or whinstone venue that is unaffected by moisture-related structural damage.
Do Not Climb
92%
10 days ago
Caley Crags has received repeated rainfall over the past week (24.1mm across six of the last seven days) with no consecutive dry days, and today has seen further light rain. The NW-facing aspect, woodland setting, and persistently high humidity (averaging 80%) mean the gritstone will be thoroughly saturated internally, even if surfaces appear to be drying between showers.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps moisture and reduces airflow around the Roadside Boulders in particular, significantly slowing drying compared to open moorland gritstone venues.
- The NW aspect receives virtually no direct sun during much of the day, meaning solar drying is minimal and the rock relies almost entirely on wind and ambient temperature for evaporation.
- The Main Crag sits higher on the hillside and may catch slightly more wind than the Roadside Boulders, but both areas will be thoroughly wet after this sustained period of rain.
- Seepage and drainage from the wooded hillside above can keep the base of problems damp long after rain stops, particularly on slabby faces where water films persist.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Caley's delicate slopers and friction-dependent problems are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry between showers but internal saturation will be extensive after a week of repeated wetting — do not be deceived by surface appearance.
Reasoning
With 24.1mm of rain spread across six of the last seven days and no meaningful dry spell, the gritstone will be deeply saturated well beyond the critical 1% threshold where significant weakening begins.
Despite moderate wind (19–32 km/h) and temperatures around 15–17°C, the NW aspect, woodland shelter, and persistently high humidity (76–86%) have prevented any meaningful drying between rain events.
The prolonged saturation poses a serious risk of hold breakage and grain loosening — climbing now would risk permanent damage to Caley's irreplaceable problems, many of which rely on delicate slopers and friction-dependent holds.
Early June should offer improving conditions, but this unseasonably wet spell has kept temperatures below seasonal norms and humidity elevated, mimicking late-autumn drying conditions rather than summer ones.
Contributing Factors
6
24.1mm across six of the last seven days with no consecutive dry days means the rock has had no opportunity to begin meaningful internal drying.
The north-west facing aspect receives very little direct sunlight, removing the most effective drying mechanism for porous rock.
The classic woodland setting at Caley traps humid air and reduces wind penetration around the boulders, significantly prolonging drying times.
Average humidity of 80% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying, as the moisture gradient between rock and air is minimal.
Sustained winds of 20–32 km/h from the west/southwest provide some drying benefit, though this is largely negated by the sheltered woodland setting and high humidity.
Rain is forecast every day from June 8–12 (totalling 14.1mm), meaning conditions will not improve and the rock will remain saturated.
Recommendations
3
- Do not climb at Caley until there have been at least 48–72 hours of consecutive dry weather with humidity below 70%, which is unlikely before mid-June at the earliest.
- If you are keen to climb this week, consider non-porous alternatives such as limestone venues in the Yorkshire Dales or whinstone in the North East.
- When conditions eventually improve, check the base of problems and the ground around the boulders — if the soil is damp, the rock almost certainly still holds internal moisture.
Do Not Climb
90%
11 days ago
Caley Crags has received significant rainfall over the past week (21.9mm across multiple days) culminating in 7.3mm today, with no consecutive dry days. The NW-facing woodland setting and high humidity (~79% average) mean the gritstone will be thoroughly saturated internally despite any surface drying, and the forecast offers no meaningful dry window over the next five days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Caley's woodland setting traps humidity and shields the rock from wind and any available sun, dramatically slowing drying even in summer.
- The Roadside Boulders sit low in the trees and tend to retain moisture longer than The Main Crag higher up the hill, though both will be affected after this much rain.
- NW-facing aspect means the crag receives no direct sunlight until late evening in summer — the primary drying mechanism is wind evaporation, which is limited by the tree canopy.
- Multiple rain events over six days (June 1–6) will have driven moisture deep into the porous gritstone, requiring a sustained dry spell of 48–72+ hours minimum to recover.
Warnings
2
- Climbing on saturated gritstone risks permanent hold breakage — Caley's signature tenuous slab holds and edges are especially vulnerable.
- The rock surface may appear dry before the interior has recovered; do not trust visual assessment alone after prolonged wet weather like this.
Reasoning
With 21.9mm of rain spread across six of the last seven days and 7.3mm falling today at 86% humidity, the gritstone will be thoroughly saturated well beyond the surface — internal moisture levels are almost certainly above critical thresholds for strength loss.
Despite moderate wind speeds (~20–30 km/h), the sheltered woodland setting and NW aspect severely limit effective drying; with no consecutive dry days and persistent high humidity (79% average), there has been essentially no meaningful drying since the wet spell began on June 1.
Gritstone at this saturation level will have lost 30%+ compressive strength, making holds — especially the tenuous slab holds and edges Caley is known for — highly susceptible to breakage under climbing loads.
Early June temperatures (13–18°C) are moderate but not warm enough to drive rapid evaporation, and the cool, humid, unsettled pattern forecast through mid-June will keep the rock in poor condition.
Contributing Factors
6
21.9mm across six rain days in the past week, with 7.3mm today, has thoroughly saturated the porous gritstone.
There has been no dry spell to begin meaningful drying since rain began on June 1.
Average humidity of 79% over the past week severely limits evaporative drying from the rock surface.
The NW-facing, tree-sheltered setting receives minimal direct sun and reduced wind, making Caley one of the slowest-drying gritstone venues in the area.
Further rain is forecast on four of the next five days (totalling ~9.2mm), preventing any sustained drying window.
Forecast winds of 24–30 km/h could aid drying in an exposed setting, but the woodland canopy at Caley limits their effectiveness.
Recommendations
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- Do not climb at Caley Crags today or in the coming days — the rock is saturated and structurally compromised.
- Monitor forecasts for a sustained dry spell of at least 72 hours (ideally longer given the woodland setting) before considering a visit.
- If you need to climb this week, consider a well-drained, south-facing limestone or whinstone venue instead — porous gritstone venues across Yorkshire will be in poor condition.
Climbing Outlook