Condition Analysis
AI-powered assessment using site data and 14-day weather history
Gabbro at Porth Ysgo has had roughly 24 hours of drying since the last trace precipitation (0.1mm late on April 12th) and over a day since the more significant 0.7mm on April 12th, with moderate winds aiding surface drying. However, high ambient humidity (~80%) and a very wet recent period mean sea spray and residual dampness on lower boulders is possible — a visual check on arrival is warranted before committing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal: some boulders sit in the splash zone and may remain wet from sea spray regardless of rainfall — check tide times and inspect lower problems carefully.
- The SW aspect receives reasonable afternoon sun in April but overcast skies today (80% humidity, southerly wind) limit solar drying compared to the exceptional day on April 7th.
- The gabbro's extreme roughness means even slightly damp rock can feel grippy, which may give a false sense of security — test friction carefully on easier moves before committing to harder problems.
- Landings are poor and pads are essential; wet sand or seaweed on landing zones from recent high tides and storms could make falls more hazardous than usual.
Warnings
2
- Heavy rain (11.4mm) is forecast for tomorrow — conditions will deteriorate significantly and remain poor through at least April 16th.
- Poor landings combined with potentially wet or sandy pad surfaces increase fall risk — bring multiple pads and a spotter.
Reasoning
The non-porous gabbro surface should be largely dry after ~24 hours without meaningful rain and moderate winds, though high humidity (80%) may leave a thin film of condensation or sea spray on exposed surfaces.
SW-facing rock at 10m altitude with 24.5 km/h southerly winds today provides reasonable drying conditions, but persistent cloud cover and 80% humidity slow evaporation compared to ideal conditions.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural damage from moisture, and no ethical concern about climbing damp gabbro beyond personal safety.
Early April offers improving daylight hours but the recent weather pattern has been persistently unsettled with frequent rain; the 5-day forecast shows more heavy rain arriving tomorrow (11.4mm), so today may be the best window for several days.
Contributing Factors
6
Gabbro does not absorb water and dries rapidly, meaning the ~24 hours since last precipitation is more than sufficient for surface drying under normal conditions.
17.3mm fell in the last 7 days across multiple events (April 9–12), and only a trace 0.1mm fell late yesterday evening, but the cumulative wet pattern keeps ambient moisture high.
Humidity has averaged 79% over the past week and sits at ~80% today, which slows surface evaporation and may leave a thin moisture film on rock.
24.5 km/h southerly winds at this exposed coastal site actively strip surface moisture and aid drying, partially offsetting the high humidity.
The SW-facing aspect would normally aid afternoon drying, but heavy cloud cover today limits direct solar radiation.
Southerly winds drive spray onto the SW-facing boulders, and recent storms with 55+ km/h winds may have deposited salt and moisture on lower problems.
Recommendations
3
- Today is likely the best window before a prolonged wet spell — if you go, visually and physically check rock surfaces for dampness before climbing, especially on lower tidal boulders.
- Check tide times carefully; some problems are only accessible at low tide, and recent storms may have shifted sand or deposited debris on landings.
- Bring plenty of tape and be conservative with session length — the gabbro will shred skin fast, especially if any residual moisture forces you to grip harder.
Previous Analyses
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
2 days ago
Today has seen only 0.6mm of light precipitation, and the gabbro at Porth Ysgo will dry rapidly in the strong 46 km/h SW winds. However, the recent run of wet days (10.8mm on Apr 11, 2.6mm on Apr 10, 3.2mm on Apr 9) combined with high ambient humidity means some sheltered surfaces or seepage zones may still hold moisture — climbers should visually assess conditions on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- The semi-tidal nature of Porth Ysgo means some lower boulders may be wet from sea spray in today's strong SW winds, independent of rainfall — check for salt residue on holds.
- Gabbro's extreme roughness will shred skin rapidly, especially in cooler spring conditions when skin is less conditioned — bring tape and plan a shorter session.
- The SW aspect faces directly into the prevailing wind today, which aids drying but may also drive sea spray and moisture onto the rock faces.
- Some boulders sit in sheltered alcoves or have overhanging features that can trap residual dampness from yesterday's rain and the heavy 10.8mm fall on April 11th.
Warnings
2
- Strong SW winds (46 km/h) combined with coastal exposure may make conditions feel raw and could affect balance on exposed problems — assess wind safety as well as rock dryness.
- Poor landings at many problems require multiple crash pads; do not underestimate the approach — the steep descent to the beach is strenuous with heavy pads.
Reasoning
Today's 0.6mm is trivial for non-porous gabbro, but the preceding days saw significant rain (10.8mm on Apr 11, 2.6mm on Apr 10) and humidity remains at 79%, so some surface dampness — particularly in sheltered spots — is plausible.
Strong 46 km/h SW winds on an exposed, SW-facing coastal site at just 10m altitude provide excellent drying conditions, and non-porous gabbro sheds water very quickly — most open surfaces should be dry within hours of rain stopping.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural damage or hold breakage from moisture.
Early April in North Wales is transitional with unpredictable weather; daylight is reasonable but temperatures are cool (max 10.6°C today), which slightly slows evaporation compared to summer conditions.
Contributing Factors
6
Gabbro does not absorb water and dries extremely quickly, meaning today's 0.6mm and yesterday's 10.8mm pose no structural risk and surface moisture dissipates rapidly.
Sustained 46 km/h SW winds on this exposed coastal site provide excellent natural drying, stripping surface moisture from the rock efficiently.
10.8mm fell yesterday (Apr 11), 2.6mm on Apr 10, and 3.2mm on Apr 9 — a cumulative 17.2mm over the past week increases the chance of lingering dampness in sheltered spots.
Humidity at 79% today slows evaporation somewhat and may cause condensation on cooler rock surfaces, particularly in shaded areas.
Strong SW winds at a coastal site may drive sea spray onto lower boulders, leaving them wet or greasy regardless of rainfall.
A maximum of 10.6°C is adequate but not ideal for drying; cool conditions also mean skin friction may be slightly better but overall evaporation rate is moderate.
Recommendations
3
- Visually inspect rock surfaces on arrival — exposed faces in the wind should be dry, but check sheltered overhangs and lower boulders for residual dampness or sea spray.
- Check tide times before heading down, as some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide and the steep approach makes multiple trips impractical.
- Bring plenty of tape and plan a shorter session — the abrasive gabbro will wear skin quickly, especially in cool spring conditions when hands may be less conditioned.
Do Not Climb
65%
3 days ago
Today has seen 7.4mm of rain with high winds, so the rock is currently wet. While gabbro dries very quickly due to its non-porous nature and the strong SW winds will help, the ongoing rain today and high humidity make climbing inadvisable right now — wait for tomorrow's near-dry forecast for a much better session.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal: some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide, so check tide tables carefully alongside weather before committing to the long walk in.
- The SW aspect and exposed coastal position mean the strong SW winds today are blowing directly onto the rock face, which accelerates surface drying but also drives rain and sea spray onto the boulders.
- Gabbro's exceptionally rough texture shreds skin rapidly — in cool, damp spring conditions skin may be slightly softer than usual, so sessions may need to be kept short and tape is essential.
- Landings at Porth Ysgo are notoriously poor with uneven rocks and seaweed; wet conditions make these even more hazardous, and multiple pads are strongly recommended.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb today while it is actively raining — even on gabbro, wet rock with poor landings on seaweed-covered boulders poses a serious fall/injury risk.
- Sea spray driven by strong SW winds may keep lower boulders damp even after rain stops — assess each boulder individually before committing.
Reasoning
The rock is currently wet from today's 7.4mm of rain, and the preceding week has been unsettled with 13.7mm total — though gabbro's zero porosity means only surface moisture is relevant.
Very strong SW winds (54.7 km/h) on an exposed SW-facing coastal site will strip surface moisture from gabbro extremely quickly once rain stops, potentially within an hour or two.
Gabbro is non-porous and extremely hard — there is zero risk of structural damage or hold breakage from moisture, so the only concern is surface friction and climber safety.
Early spring conditions with average temps around 9°C and high humidity (77% week average) mean ambient drying is slower than summer, though the strong persistent winds compensate significantly.
Contributing Factors
6
7.4mm of precipitation today means the rock surface is currently wet and conditions are unsuitable right now.
Gabbro has zero porosity so water sits on the surface only and dries extremely quickly once rain stops — no structural concerns whatsoever.
Winds of 54.7 km/h on an exposed coastal site will rapidly strip surface moisture from the rock once precipitation ceases.
Humidity averaging 77% over the past week with 78% today slows ambient evaporation and may leave a residual damp film on sheltered surfaces.
Repeated rain events over the past two weeks (46.7mm in 28 days) with very few consecutive dry days suggest persistent dampness in cracks and sheltered areas.
Gabbro's coarse, abrasive surface provides significantly better friction than most rock types even in marginal dampness, reducing slip risk.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until tomorrow (April 12) when only 0.1mm of rain is forecast and strong winds should have dried the rock — arrive mid-morning for the best chance of dry surfaces.
- Check tide tables before visiting as several key boulders are only accessible at low tide, and the walk-in is long enough to be frustrating if timing is wrong.
- Bring plenty of tape and expect short sessions — the gabbro is brutally abrasive, and cool damp spring air may soften skin faster than expected.
Do Not Climb
45%
4 days ago
Today has seen 1.6mm of rain with high winds from the south, and the gabbro will likely have surface moisture present; while the non-porous rock dries quickly, the combination of today's precipitation, 74% humidity, and a very wet recent spell means surfaces may still be damp in sheltered spots. Tomorrow brings a significant 11mm rainfall event, making the short-term outlook poor.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal — some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide, so climbers must check tide tables and plan sessions around tidal windows regardless of conditions.
- The SW-facing aspect aligns with today's southerly wind, meaning the rock receives direct wind exposure which aids rapid surface drying of the non-porous gabbro.
- The extremely rough gabbro texture at Porth Ysgo shreds skin rapidly, especially in cooler spring conditions when skin is less conditioned — bring tape and plan shorter sessions.
- Poor landings on the beach boulders require multiple crash pads; damp sand and seaweed around boulder bases can make approaches and landings treacherous in wet weather.
Warnings
2
- Landings around the boulders may be slippery from wet sand, seaweed, and recent rain — exercise extra caution with pad placement and spotting.
- Tomorrow (April 11) brings heavy rain and near-gale-force winds (57 km/h SW); avoid visiting and be aware of dangerous sea conditions at this coastal venue.
Reasoning
Today's 1.6mm of rain means surface moisture is likely present, though the non-porous gabbro will not have absorbed any water and strong 46 km/h southerly winds will be actively drying exposed faces.
The SW aspect and high wind exposure mean surface water evaporates quickly on gabbro — a couple of dry, windy hours could see the main faces dry, but sheltered crevices and north-facing surfaces may retain moisture.
Gabbro is extremely hard and dense with zero porosity, so there is no structural risk from moisture — the rock will not weaken or lose holds when wet.
Early April in North Wales brings unsettled Atlantic weather patterns with frequent frontal systems; the recent week has seen repeated wet days with only brief dry spells, and humidity has been persistently high.
Contributing Factors
7
1.6mm of precipitation today means the rock has been recently wetted and may still carry surface moisture.
Gabbro's zero porosity means water sits only on the surface and dries extremely quickly with wind and sun exposure.
46 km/h winds from the south directly hit the SW-facing crag, actively stripping surface moisture from exposed faces.
9.7mm in the last 7 days across multiple rain events means the general environment is damp, with wet ground, seepage, and humid air.
Moderate-to-high humidity slows evaporation and can leave a thin moisture film on cold rock surfaces, reducing friction.
The exceptionally rough, abrasive texture of Porth Ysgo gabbro provides usable friction even when slightly damp, unlike smoother rock types.
11mm forecast for April 11 means conditions will deteriorate significantly before any sustained drying window opens.
Recommendations
3
- If determined to visit today, wait until late afternoon to allow maximum wind-drying time after this morning's rain, and test friction carefully on lower problems before committing to anything committing.
- Check tide tables carefully — some boulders will only be accessible at specific windows, and wet/seaweed-covered approaches add additional slip risk in current conditions.
- Consider postponing to April 12 or 14 when dry windows may allow the gabbro to dry fully, but be prepared to assess conditions on arrival.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
65%
5 days ago
Gabbro at Porth Ysgo had a good dry spell on April 7–8 but today (April 9) shows 0.4mm of light rain with moderate westerly winds; overnight humidity was extremely high (97–100%), likely producing condensation or dew on rock surfaces. The non-porous gabbro will shed any surface moisture quickly once wind and sun arrive, but conditions should be visually assessed on arrival.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Overnight humidity hit 97–100% through to this morning, meaning dew or condensation is very likely on rock surfaces despite minimal actual rainfall — the gabbro's rough texture can trap surface moisture in micro-pockets even though it doesn't absorb water.
- Semi-tidal access is critical today: some of the best problems are only reachable at low tide, so climbers must check tide tables for the Lleyn Peninsula before committing to the walk-in.
- The SW aspect means afternoon sun will help dry any residual surface moisture, but morning sessions may encounter greasy holds especially on shaded or north-facing facets of boulders.
- Sea spray from the exposed coastal position can deposit salt moisture on lower boulders, particularly in the moderate SW–W winds forecast this week — this can make gabbro surprisingly slippery even when it hasn't rained.
Warnings
2
- Overnight condensation may make the exceptionally rough gabbro deceptively slippery — test friction carefully before committing to harder moves.
- Landings at Porth Ysgo are generally poor; combine damp conditions with awkward landings and the injury risk increases — bring multiple pads and a spotter.
Reasoning
Today's 0.4mm of rain is trivial on non-porous gabbro, but the sustained overnight humidity of 97–100% will have deposited significant condensation on rock surfaces that may persist into the morning.
The SW aspect and 30 km/h westerly wind today should strip surface moisture relatively quickly once the sun gets onto the rock — expect usable conditions by late morning or early afternoon if no further showers develop.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural damage or hold breakage from moisture; this is purely a friction and safety consideration.
Early April on the Lleyn Peninsula brings cool temperatures and high baseline humidity; overnight dew formation is common and can be persistent on mornings with light winds, though lengthening days and improving solar angle aid drying.
Contributing Factors
7
0.4mm recorded today is minimal but confirms active moisture reaching the rock surface.
Humidity of 97–100% from late evening through to morning virtually guarantees heavy dew/condensation on rock surfaces.
Gabbro does not absorb water at all, so surface moisture is the only concern and it sheds quickly once drying conditions arrive.
30 km/h winds from the west on this exposed coastal site will accelerate surface drying significantly.
The south-westerly aspect will receive direct sun from late morning through afternoon, aiding evaporation of any surface moisture.
5.9mm over the last 7 days with rain on 4 of those days means the general environment is damp, increasing likelihood of seepage and persistent dampness in sheltered spots.
Exposed coastal position with strong SW–W winds means sea spray can deposit salt moisture on lower boulders, reducing friction.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until late morning or early afternoon for the wind and sun to clear overnight condensation before attempting problems — bring a towel to test hold surfaces.
- Check Lleyn Peninsula tide tables before heading down; some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide and the walk-in is committing.
- Bring plenty of finger tape — gabbro is notoriously abrasive, and any residual moisture will accelerate skin wear; consider shorter sessions to preserve skin for the drier days ahead.
Likely Safe to Climb
85%
6 days ago
Porth Ysgo's non-porous gabbro has had two full dry days (April 7–8) with warm temperatures up to 19°C and moderate winds, following only light precipitation on April 5–6. Surface moisture should be fully cleared, and conditions today look genuinely good for climbing.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Semi-tidal venue: some boulders are only accessible at low tide — check tide times for the Lleyn Peninsula before travelling.
- Coastal sea spray and morning condensation can leave a thin film of moisture on lower boulders even after dry spells; inspect surfaces before committing.
- The gabbro's exceptionally rough texture will shred skin rapidly — bring tape and plan for shorter sessions, especially in cooler spring conditions when skin is less conditioned.
- Landings at Porth Ysgo are generally poor and uneven; bring multiple bouldering pads and a spotter, particularly as some problems are above rocky ground.
Warnings
2
- Today's high humidity (91%) may produce condensation on shaded or north-facing rock surfaces — test friction on your first moves before committing to harder problems.
- Landings are poor and uneven; bring multiple pads and a spotter as a fall onto rocky ground is a serious injury risk.
Reasoning
The gabbro has been completely dry for two days following only 0.5mm on April 5, and its non-porous nature means surface water evaporates rapidly — the rock should be thoroughly dry.
The SW-facing aspect received excellent solar radiation on April 7 (max 19.1°C) with moderate easterly winds, and today's conditions continue dry with light southerly winds, providing ample drying.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural weakening or hold damage from moisture.
Early April in North Wales brings improving conditions but changeable weather; the current dry window is a good opportunity before forecast rain arrives from April 9 onward.
Contributing Factors
6
No measurable precipitation since April 6, giving non-porous gabbro more than enough time to shed all surface moisture.
Yesterday reached 19.1°C with low humidity (42–58% midday) and moderate wind, providing excellent evaporative drying conditions.
Today's humidity is forecast at 91% with light winds (12.2 km/h), which could cause condensation on cooler rock surfaces, especially in shade or early morning.
Gabbro does not absorb water at all, so only surface moisture matters and drying is extremely rapid.
The exposed SW-facing coastal setting promotes rapid air circulation and drying, though sea spray can occasionally dampen lower boulders.
Significant rain is forecast from April 10 onward, making today one of the last good climbing days in the short term.
Recommendations
3
- Climb today if possible — this is the best window before a prolonged wet spell arrives from April 10 onward.
- Check tide times before travelling as some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide.
- Bring tape for fingers and plan shorter sessions; the abrasive gabbro will wear skin quickly, especially if humidity causes any slight dampness on the surface.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
8 days ago
Gabbro at Porth Ysgo has had roughly 18 hours of drying since a very light shower (0.5mm total) yesterday evening, with moderate winds and today's dry, mild conditions — the non-porous rock should be surface-dry by now. However, high average humidity (85% over the past week) and coastal salt spray mean a visual check on arrival is prudent before committing to problems.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal: some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide, so check tide tables before heading down the steep path to the beach.
- Coastal spray and sea mist can deposit a thin film of moisture on the gabbro even on nominally dry days, particularly on boulders closest to the waterline.
- The SW aspect means afternoon sun will hit the boulders directly today, accelerating any residual drying — morning sessions on shaded problems may still feel slightly damp.
- The notoriously abrasive gabbro texture will shred skin rapidly in the cool, slightly humid spring air — bring tape and plan a shorter session than you might in summer.
Warnings
2
- Semi-tidal venue with poor landings: always check tide times and bring multiple bouldering pads.
- Bird nesting restrictions may apply at coastal sites in spring — check BMC RAD for any current access restrictions at Porth Ysgo.
Reasoning
Only 0.5mm fell yesterday evening and the non-porous gabbro does not absorb water, so surface moisture from that light shower should have evaporated overnight with moderate westerly winds.
Around 18 hours of drying with winds averaging 25–30 km/h from the west/south and the SW aspect now receiving direct spring sunshine should be more than sufficient for non-porous gabbro to shed surface water.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural weakening or hold damage from moisture.
Early April brings lengthening days and improving solar angles, but Atlantic weather remains changeable with frequent showers; the persistent high humidity (85% average) can slow the final stages of surface drying on exposed coastal rock.
Contributing Factors
7
Only 0.5mm fell yesterday evening, and today is completely dry — minimal moisture to clear from non-porous rock.
Gabbro does not absorb water at all, so surface moisture evaporates quickly and there is no internal dampness concern.
Moderate winds (30 km/h today from the south) across this exposed coastal site accelerate surface evaporation significantly.
The south-westerly aspect receives direct afternoon sun in April, boosting drying and warming the rock surface.
Average humidity over the past week is 85% and today sits at 78%, which can slow the final stage of drying and leave a residual dampness film.
Sea spray and coastal mist at this beach-level venue can re-wet rock surfaces even on dry days, especially on lower boulders.
Typical Atlantic spring pattern with frequent rain episodes means conditions can shift rapidly, though today's forecast is dry.
Recommendations
3
- Check tide tables before visiting — some of the best boulders are only accessible at low tide and the steep path makes repeat trips impractical.
- Visually inspect rock surfaces on arrival, particularly north-facing or shaded faces and boulders near the waterline, for residual dampness or salt film.
- Bring finger tape and plan a moderate session length — the gabbro's abrasive texture is exceptionally hard on skin, especially in cool humid conditions when skin is softer.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
72%
9 days ago
After 4.4mm of rain yesterday in strong SW winds, today has been dry with moderate westerly winds (41 km/h) and notably low humidity (68%). Non-porous gabbro at this exposed coastal site should have dried quickly, but yesterday's rain and the generally wet recent pattern warrant a visual check on arrival — particularly for any sheltered or north-facing surfaces and tidal-zone seepage.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal: some boulders sit in the splash zone and may have residual saltwater moisture or seaweed slime regardless of rainfall — always check landings and lower holds at tide-accessible boulders.
- The SW-facing aspect means the afternoon sun directly hits the main bouldering walls, which combined with today's strong westerly wind creates excellent drying conditions on exposed faces, though any recessed or sheltered features may retain dampness.
- The gabbro's exceptionally rough texture can still provide usable friction when slightly damp, but the same texture shreds skin rapidly — in cool spring conditions with any residual moisture, skin will deteriorate even faster than usual, so bring tape and plan a shorter session.
- The approach path down the steep hillside to the beach can be muddy and slippery after the recent wet spell; take care on the descent, especially in the wet grass sections.
Warnings
2
- The steep hillside approach may be slippery after the recent wet spell — take care on the descent, particularly on grass sections.
- Be aware of rising tides: some boulders become cut off, and the beach setting means escape routes can be blocked — always check tide tables and leave a safety margin.
Reasoning
The last rain was 4.4mm on April 4th in strong SW winds, followed by a fully dry day today (April 5th) with 41 km/h westerly winds and 68% humidity — surface moisture on exposed gabbro faces should be largely gone, though sheltered nooks and tidal-zone boulders may retain dampness.
One full dry day with strong wind and the SW aspect receiving good spring afternoon sun provides rapid drying on non-porous gabbro; the exposed coastal position accelerates evaporation significantly, and surface water will have cleared from most faces within hours.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural weakening or hold breakage from moisture at any time.
Early April in North Wales is transitional with frequent Atlantic weather systems; the recent pattern shows repeated wet spells interspersed with brief dry windows, and daylight hours are increasing but temperatures remain cool, limiting sustained drying between fronts.
Contributing Factors
7
Moderate rain fell just yesterday in strong winds, meaning some sheltered surfaces may not have fully cleared despite today's dry conditions.
A full dry day with 41 km/h westerly wind and 68% humidity provides excellent drying conditions for non-porous rock at an exposed coastal site.
Gabbro does not absorb water and dries extremely quickly; surface moisture is the only concern, and it clears rapidly in wind.
The SW-facing, fully exposed position catches both wind and afternoon sun, maximising drying speed.
9.4mm fell in the last 7 days across multiple events, and humidity has averaged 85%, meaning the general environment is damp even if the rock surface is dry.
Early April offers increasing daylight and solar angle but cool temperatures (avg 8.8°C) and frequent Atlantic fronts limit sustained drying windows.
Some boulders are only accessible at low tide and may retain saltwater spray or seepage regardless of weather drying.
Recommendations
3
- Check tide times before visiting — plan your session around low tide to access the full range of problems, and be aware that tidal boulders may have residual sea spray.
- Visually and physically inspect rock surfaces on arrival, especially any north-facing or sheltered features; the main SW-facing walls should be dry but confirm before committing to harder problems.
- Bring finger tape and plan a shorter session — the abrasive gabbro texture combined with cool, slightly humid spring air will wear skin quickly.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
70%
10 days ago
Today saw 2.7mm of rain with high humidity (86%), but the strong SW winds (62.6 km/h) and gabbro's non-porous nature mean surface moisture should clear rapidly. Conditions are likely climbable later today, but a visual check on arrival is essential given the wet morning and persistent high humidity of recent days.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal — some boulders are only accessible at low tide, so check tide tables before setting out as this directly limits which problems are available.
- The SW aspect faces directly into today's strong SW wind and rain, meaning the rock faces will have been wetted by wind-driven rain and spray, but will also benefit from maximum wind-drying once rain stops.
- Gabbro's notoriously rough texture shreds skin rapidly — in the cool, damp spring conditions skin may be softer than usual, so bring tape and plan a shorter session.
- Landings at Porth Ysgo are generally poor and can be slippery when wet — multiple pads are essential and spotters should be extra cautious on damp ground.
Warnings
2
- Strong winds (62+ km/h) may make exposed positions uncomfortable or dangerous — assess whether gusts affect balance on highball problems.
- Wet, slippery landings on poor ground increase the risk of ankle injuries — use multiple pads and attentive spotters.
Reasoning
Today's 2.7mm of rain on non-porous gabbro leaves only surface water, and while humidity is high at 86%, the rock itself cannot absorb moisture so only standing water and surface films are a concern.
The very strong SW winds (62.6 km/h) on an exposed, SW-facing coastal site will strip surface moisture from gabbro extremely quickly — likely within an hour or two of rain ceasing.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural weakening or hold breakage from moisture at any time.
Early April is still early spring with short days and cool temperatures; the recent pattern has been persistently damp with frequent rain, though a promising dry spell is forecast from tomorrow.
Contributing Factors
6
2.7mm of rain today means the rock surface will be wet, though non-porous gabbro sheds water rapidly once rain stops.
Exceptional wind speeds of 62.6 km/h on this exposed coastal site will dry surface moisture within a short time, though they may also bring sea spray onto lower boulders.
Humidity at 86% today and averaging 87% over the past week slows evaporation and may leave a film of moisture on rock surfaces even after rain stops.
Gabbro's zero porosity means no internal moisture absorption — only surface wetness matters, and this clears far faster than on sandstone or gritstone.
10.7mm in the last 7 days across multiple events means the surrounding ground is saturated, potentially contributing seepage and splash onto lower rock faces.
The SW-facing, low-altitude coastal position receives good solar radiation and maximum wind exposure, both of which accelerate surface drying.
Recommendations
3
- Wait until any rain has fully ceased and allow 1–2 hours of wind-drying before committing to climb; visually inspect rock surfaces for moisture films.
- Check tide tables carefully — some boulders are only accessible at low tide, and wet conditions near the waterline will persist longer due to spray.
- Bring tape for fingers and plan a shorter session, as the rough gabbro will wear skin faster in cool, slightly damp spring conditions.
Marginal — Assess Conditions
60%
11 days ago
Despite gabbro's rapid drying properties, today saw 0.3mm of rain with high humidity (91%) following 4.1mm yesterday — surface moisture is likely present. Strong SW winds (40 km/h) on this exposed, SW-facing coast will aid drying quickly, but conditions should be visually confirmed on arrival before committing to climb.
Based on weather conditions only — does not cover bird nesting restrictions or other access issues.
- Porth Ysgo is semi-tidal — some boulders are only accessible at low tide, so check tide tables before setting out as this directly limits your climbing window.
- The SW aspect means the crag faces directly into the prevailing wind today (40 km/h SW), which will accelerate surface drying but may also carry salt spray onto lower boulders near the waterline.
- Gabbro's exceptionally rough texture can still provide usable friction when slightly damp, but the abrasive surface will shred skin rapidly — tape up early and manage skin carefully in cool, humid spring conditions.
- Landings at Porth Ysgo are notoriously poor; bring multiple pads and spotters, especially as damp sand and seaweed around boulder bases can make approaches slippery.
Warnings
2
- Do not climb on boulders that show any visible moisture film — even gabbro's superb friction is significantly reduced when wet, and poor landings make a slip especially dangerous.
- Strong SW winds (40 km/h) may make exposed highball problems dangerous; assess wind conditions on arrival.
Reasoning
Light rain today (0.3mm) on top of 4.1mm yesterday means surface moisture is likely present, though gabbro's non-porous nature means water sits on the surface rather than being absorbed.
Strong SW winds (40 km/h) directly hitting the SW-facing exposed crag at low altitude will strip surface moisture quickly — gabbro could feasibly dry within hours of the rain stopping, but 91% humidity slows evaporation.
Gabbro is extremely hard, dense, and non-porous — there is zero risk of structural weakening or hold breakage from moisture; this is purely a surface friction and safety consideration.
Early spring conditions with average temperatures around 8.7°C and high humidity (84% over the past week) mean ambient drying is slower than in summer, though the strong winds largely compensate at this exposed coastal site.
Contributing Factors
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4.1mm fell yesterday and 0.3mm today, meaning the rock has had very little dry time and surface moisture is likely.
Gabbro does not absorb water at all, so drying is purely a surface process and happens rapidly once rain stops.
40 km/h winds directly onto this exposed SW-facing coastal crag will strip surface moisture efficiently.
91% humidity today and an 84% weekly average slow evaporation rates despite the wind.
SW-facing rock receives afternoon sun which will supplement wind-driven drying, though early April sun angles are moderate.
Strong onshore SW winds may carry salt spray onto lower boulders, creating a greasy film even after rain dries.
Recommendations
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- Check tide times carefully before heading out — some of the best problems are only accessible at low tide and the tidal window is non-negotiable.
- Arrive in the afternoon to maximise drying time from both wind and sun, and physically touch the rock surface before committing to climb.
- Bring plenty of finger tape — gabbro is brutally abrasive and skin will deteriorate fast in humid spring conditions.
Climbing Outlook